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A Village General Shop after John Ahern. - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Nov 11th, 2017 12:33 am
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col.stephens
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 Here we go again... another John Ahern building on the way.  This time I have decided to make the charming Village General Shop.  There is a drawing of the building in the appendix to Miniature Building Construction.  I have JA's 4mm scale drawing of the structure and will be working from this.  Construction is much the same as my previous builds of John Ahern buildings so I doubt there will be any ground breaking surprises coming up.  This is a small building and I anticipate that it will be completed a darn sight sooner than the Small Country Station (one year!)


Today, I awoke early, descended the stairs, fed the cats, made a cup of tea and decided to dig out the 1.5mm mounting board.  I began by drawing the ends.  Contrary to what you see in the following photos, all pencil lines and cut edges are straight and have been drawn using a set square.



The front and rear of the building were drawn and cut out also.  All corners of the windows and doors were pricked with a scriber before being cut out.



 



So, all of the cutting out was achieved by breakfast.  Off to a good start.  This is where we are at present...



As usual, I will be using Scalescenes papers to cover the model.  The rear will be covered with red brick whilst the front and sides will be covered in stucco.  The Scalescenes papers are sprayed over with Testors Dullcote, a matt varnish, to protect the inkjet surface.


More soon.


Terry

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 Posted: Sat Nov 11th, 2017 12:49 am
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Mr.Tin
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I love to see these made, Terry, but I meant to ask. As you cover each wall separately with brick paper, how do you cover the filling of the inevitable gap at the corners?
Martin



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 Posted: Sat Nov 11th, 2017 03:46 am
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If I may leap in here (notwithstanding any reply Terry makes to explain his excellent results ) I tend to cover (say) the ends and cut the texture paper flush with the edges, then allow the front and back papers to overlap a little and after joining the four sides, cut off the appropriate overhang with a razor blade using the flush cut side as a guide.

If I were able to call up the thread I did on a GWR engine shed from my tablet there is a sketch to explain same.

Doug



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 Posted: Sat Nov 11th, 2017 02:24 pm
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Mr.Tin
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Thanks, Doug.  That would be a neat way of doing it, certainly.
But a razor blade?  There are those who would have the H&E police banging on your door!<G>

Martin



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 Posted: Sat Nov 11th, 2017 10:55 pm
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col.stephens
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 Martin, I simply wrap the brickpaper over the ends of each side and glue behind.  Like this...



The corners are simply butted together.  The join can often be covered with a downpipe.  In any event, I always make sure that the brick courses line up.  On the building below, the two outer joins are covered by the downpipes.  The join in the centre of the photo is visible.  I don't think the joins are too noticeable in 4mm scale from normal viewing distances.



Terry

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 Posted: Sat Nov 11th, 2017 10:59 pm
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col.stephens
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Doug, I shall have to try your method.  Thanks for explaining.


Terry

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 Posted: Sat Nov 11th, 2017 11:03 pm
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Mr.Tin
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It's fine where there are plausibly downpipes to cover the join.  Very nice work anyway. Lovely to see JA's book still used. I have George Stoke's book too, but it's surprisingly difficult to read and seems to gloss over a lot of stuff.
Cheers,
Martin



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 Posted: Sun Nov 12th, 2017 02:33 pm
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I too have the book by George Iliffe Stokes, 'Buildings in Miniature', published by Peco for five shillings.  I agree it is not an easy read.  I also have 'The Peco Book of Model Buildings' by Mike Gill.  I picked up a copy for £1 not long ago at a model railway show. I also have 'Modelling Buildings' by Malcolm J. Smith, a Pendon publication. 


Terry 

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You can never have too many books, Terry. Especially by the acknowledged experts. I have Gordon Gravett's book on grasslands and muddy tracks, but I haven't got round to laying out for static fluff. I made a bug bat dispenser, but I still do alright with my medical lint and Scotch brite. However I will shortly need some sticky up stuff.
I used to have the Pendon book on cottage building, but it disappeared in a move. Looking at some recent additions to Pendon in MRJ, I am inclined to stick with the George and John show! I wonder what George would have made of Foamex. He's bound to have used it if it were around back then.
I believe my dear bride has got me a book on using brick papers, for Christmas, ut I'm not allowed near it. It will go with another by Gordon Gravett that also turned up and was also hidden away till the 25th. She buys me books and music for Christmas. It stops me screaming abuse at the crap on the telly that she might be watching on the big day

Martin



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Mr.Tin wrote: Thanks, Doug.  That would be a neat way of doing it, certainly.
But a razor blade?  There are those who would have the H&E police banging on your door!<G>

Martin

Tee-hee!

If it was good enough for Mr Ahearn, s'good enough for me....



Copyright CV Russell and E Fells. Reproduced with their kind permissions.

and here, appropos the razor blade corner method, see lower right corner...





With apologies for semi-hi-jack, Terry,

Doug



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 Posted: Sun Nov 12th, 2017 05:43 pm
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albert weatherspoon
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Just another quick question, if I may, which adhesive do you use, and is it applied to paper or wall? I'm having trouble with wrinkles at the moment, and happy to listen to the experts.

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Spraymount if you can afford it or Evo-Stik for me, always.

Martin



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For me, for large areas, PritStick, applied to the walls. Paper damp with glue stretches and tears easily. This way you can stick one surface/face, then have dry paper to score along at the edge to make a sharp fold. For 'beasting' a wrap around, say, a chimney, then apply it to the paper and fit carefully. If you have ever done any wall papering you'll know that the paper should 'soak' a bit if you want to stretch it.



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Hi Terry,
I like the razor blade holder design. I have similar in plastic. I use the blunt end for curving strips of paper (without the blade :lol:). Pretty obvious which way the sharp end goes. Just have to remember which end is used for cutting. Is there a left-handed version?
Nigel



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Doug, thanks for the drawings.  I'm going to give it a try on this current project.


Nigel, personally I always use a scalpel with a 10A blade for all my modelling projects.


Albert, I always use a glue stick.  I reproduce here what John Wiffen who produces Scalescenes kits, says on his website on this subject:


Can I use spray glue to mount the prints?


"Having spent over twenty years working as a graphic designer, I really can't say I trust the longevity of spray glue, it does have a tendency to dry out and separate over time. After much experimentation, as unlikely as it seems I have found the best option by far for mounting the sheets on to card is the humble glue stick (I use UHU). 


As long the back of the sheet is given a generous but even coat of glue, not only do glue sticks not wrinkle or bubble, but they also have the ability to be repositioned and smoothed for several minutes after application. After running a roller over the sheet, I have found gluestick adhesive to have excellent longevity."


Personally, I always run a small roller over the sheet once it has been applied with the glue stick.  The rollers are available from craft shops.  I also always construct the model on plate glass to ensure the building sits flat.


Hope this helps.


Terry 


 


 

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albert weatherspoon
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I've tried glue stiks, but after a while they seem to give a 'lumpy' coating. Perhaps I keep them in operation for too long? I'll be trying some of the other suggestions, though.

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You are right A-W, they seem to have a limited life once you start to use one. I generally ditch a glue stick after I have used it for a couple of weeks - it begins to dry out and start to solidify.
Cheap enough anyway, so it's false economy to try and make one last.

HTH
Shaun.

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Cannot get Prit sticks to work. Even helping the kids with school projects where they're given the stuff to use, I couldn't get it to stick. Good quality Spraymount if used on both surfaces is OK. I have had it let go when the card substrate got very damp. In that case I just reglued with Evo-Stik. That does NOT let go! But you have to be accurate positioning it. If that is a potential problem, use Dunlop Thixofix. It allows a bit of shifting. As long as it isn't a liquid style glue.

Cheers,
Martin



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col.stephens
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The two chimney stacks were made next by gluing four more pieces of mounting board to each chimney on the ends of the building.  This gave the required thickness...



 



The brick was applied to the rear of the building and the stucco to the front and sides, using a glue stick.  Note the 'wings' protruding from the ends, to cover the edges of the front and rear walls, as suggested by Chubber...



 



The windows will be added next.


More soon.


Terry

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 Posted: Thu Nov 16th, 2017 05:55 pm
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I use the cheap glue sticks that you get in the stationary section of the supermarket. Very effective. 
Following along Terry, keep it coming.

cheers

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Same here, I find cheap glue sticks from Poundland work far better than the branded Pritt ones, I can get 5 large sticks for a pound.



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Before adding the windows, brown watercolour was painted at the bottom of the front wall.  This is part of the colour scheme for the front of the shop whereby the downstairs window, shop window, shop door and lower wall are all painted brown.  All other paintwork is white.





The lintels were added next.  Some of the Scalescenes stucco paper was glued to postcard.  The lintels were cut out and the edges coloured with felt tipped pen, before being glued in place above the windows.  Stucco paper was also glued to thicker card and narrow strips were cut to make the sills.  The front wall was placed onto postcard and a pencil run around each opening to give the dimensions for each window frame.  The card was cut just inside each pencil line.  You can see the lintels, sills and window frames in this photo.  One frame has been glued behind its window...



I had a second attempt at fitting the downstairs window frame as it looked a bit narrow.  Here is the replacement having been given a wash of brown watercolour before fitting in place.



Terry

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I used clear plastic from discarded packaging for the glazing.  Problem: how to reproduce the glazing bars inside the window frames?  A couple of books in my possession suggested scribing the glazing with the back of the craft knife.  One suggested then rubbing a white coloured pencil over the scribed mark. This didn't work for me, I'm afraid.  I was left with rather blotchy looking glazing bars.  I pondered the problem for a couple of days and in the end decided to go with the method previously described by Chubber on this website - the self-adhesive label method.  Here, the label has been stuck onto the clear plastic and the glazing bars have been drawn and the window panes are in the process of being cut out...



Next, each pane was removed by digging at a corner of each pane with a cocktail stick until sufficient had been raised to grip with a pair of tweezers.  Some adhesive from the label remained on each pane so I gently rubbed each pane with a cotton bud moistened with methylated spirit to remove most of it.


 


Each set of glazing bars/panes were cut out with a wide border all around before being glued behind each window frame...



 



More soon...


Terry

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Great work Terry. Looking forward to the next installment.

Shaun.

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Thank you Shaun.


Terry

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Stunning workmanship as usual and clearly explained in the accompanying text.

An inspiration surely for all scratch builders.


Allan

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Thank you Allan, very kind of you.


Regards,


Terry

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col.stephens
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 Quick update on progress.  Work continues to complete the windows.  This is not a long job, each window taking about five minutes but finding time is my current problem.  Meanwhile, I offer you this picture of the front, downstairs window, photographed against white paper.  The window measures only 15 millimetres square.  Each pane is only 3 millimetres wide!


 


More soon.


Terry

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Very nifty. :cool:



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Thanks Max.


 All windows have now been completed.  I glued the walls together and carefully trimmed the overlapping paper at the corners. (Thanks for that tip, Doug).  On looking at the building it was quite apparent that the end walls were curving inwards at the top.  A central wall was installed to sort out that problem.  It then dawned on me that I hadn't fitted curtains to the windows, so that job is now taking place.  Curtains have been sourced from the Scalescenes' Small Terraced Houses kit.  This is how it is looking at present...



 



More soon.


Terry

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Good evening

I work in O gauge and use a textured brick paper i get from Greece (!) via ebay. It has a fairly thick paper so i use a rubber glue called Fixo-Gum made by Marabu in Germany. It is expensive if you buy it at shows but again cheaper supplies are available on ebay. I initially used PVA but found it made the paper too wet and lost some of the texture. This was worse on Howards Scenics which are not particularly heavy embossed to start with.

I made a goods shed for my new O gauge exhibition layout - Docklands - pictured here. The red-oxide walls are home made resin castings which are waiting for the final painting.



Rgds Andrew


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col.stephens
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Hello Andrew.  Very nice work.  Thanks for posting the picture.  I once saw a layout on which all of the buildings were Scalescenes card kits, enlarged to 7mm scale.  I must say, they looked superb. 


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Terry

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col.stephens
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Progress update.  All curtains have been fitted.  I decided to make the shop window next.  Whilst viewing the rather cruel enlarged photos, please bear in mind the length over the windows is only 35 mm.  Three pieces of clear plastic packaging were cut to size...



The window frames were built up with strips of self-adhesive label...



 



Card was used to build up the facia and the foot of the window...



 



A wash of brown watercolour... 



The window requires dressing and the shopkeeper's name applied to the facia before fitting in place.  However, I am going to fit the shop doors first.


More soon.


Terry

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Another good use of materials from outside the box, Terry.  :cool:



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MaxSouthOz wrote: Another good use of materials from outside the box, Terry.  :cool:
Or even part of the box... :mutley

Great work as usual Terry!

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That's a great looking shop front Terry. :pathead :pathead



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Thank you all.


The shop window was fixed in place, but what to do about dressing it?  The plan by John Ahern contains a small drawing showing jars and boxes, which can be copied and painted.  I photocopied, painted and fixed it in place.  However, it looked rather flat and had a 'Toy Town' look about it. Acceptable in the 1940's but not to our more discerning 21st century eyes.  I ripped (literally) it out and sat down for a rethink.  I decided to make a window display from small rectangles of card.  They were arranged and glued onto a false floor and a shelf, before being painted with watercolours.  The whole scene was then pushed into place from the rear of the window opening and secured with glue.  Here is a picture of the rather weather-beaten window...



Terry


 

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Hullo Terry, here's a link to my approach at updating JA, scan and photoshop some old advertising stuff and product photos to dress a shop window. I'm darned sure he would have used a 'Pooter had they been around!

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=12168&forum_id=62&highlight=dooferdog+shop

Post 11 gives a good view of Owididit.

Doug



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Thanks Doug.  I wish I had thought of that!


The shop doors were cut from a piece of thin card.  The lower panels were scribed and the upper panels were cut out.  The door frame was slightly built up with more thin card.



The whole was then glued to some acetic sheet for the windows and to give the doors some strength.  A wash of brown watercolour followed and the door knob was added, this being the head of a Peco track pin. (Make a hole with a scriber, push the pin through, add glue and when dry, snip off the pin behind the door.)  A slither of thin card was added for the letterbox and a dab of watercolour finished it off.  The front doorstep, a rectangle of card, was painted and glued in place.  This is how the shop frontage looks at present...



At this stage I gave the inside of the building a wash of dark watercolour.


More soon.


Terry

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I'm liking it Terry. :doublethumb



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Very nice. Are you going to be lighting the shop?

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Looking good, Terry.

Shop interiors can be very time consuming and sadly 'lost' at anything over a few feet away, not to mention glass light deflection, so all I do - if indeed I do anything- is to download googled shop interiors then size them up in Serif then print them off wholesale. This also applies to shop names and. if you want, Terry, I can put up a few pics showing the results.


Allan

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Thank you Peter, David and Allan.


David, no I won't be installing lighting.  Personally, I'm not a fan and those layouts which I have seen lighted generally have the lights far too bright.  They remind me of Santa's grotto!


Allan.  Yes please.  It would be nice to see some more of your work.


Regards,


Terry

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col.stephens wrote:

Thank you Peter, David and Allan.

David, no I won't be installing lighting.  Personally, I'm not a fan and those layouts which I have seen lighted generally have the lights far too bright.  They remind me of Santa's grotto!

Allan.  Yes please.  It would be nice to see some more of your work.

Regards,

Terry

 Here you are then, Terry, a take on the Tunbridge Wells Pantiles.

Not an exact copy of course,  just a reasonable representation worked up from photographs.


Allan














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col.stephens wrote:

Thank you Peter, David and Allan.

David, no I won't be installing lighting.  Personally, I'm not a fan and those layouts which I have seen lighted generally have the lights far too bright.  They remind me of Santa's grotto!

Allan.  Yes please.  It would be nice to see some more of your work.

Regards,

Terry


With you on the lighting Terry - almost always seems too bright to me as well. Saw one layout a few years ago (can't remember the name unfortunately) where I thought they'd got it right though - very subdued lighting, almost like gas light.

Look forward to seeing more of your work.

Regards,

David V.

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Thanks David.


Allan, superb work as always.  I know the Pantiles and I think you have captured the flavour of it very well.


Terry


 

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I'm becoming used to seeing your superb work, Allan.

But it still takes my breath away . . .  :cool:



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 The rear door and step have now been attached...



The two sides of the roof have been glued in place.  Red Tiles TX41a from Scalescenes.


Terry

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Wouldn't it be better if contibutors only posted links to their subjects in threads clearly intended to explore modelling in a certain style or fashion no matter how worthy the modelling involved?

Doug

Ps Terry Where's the roof?



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Agree wholeheartedly with your comment Doug.
It's Terry's thread, and his building. (and a very good one, I might add)

Shaun.

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col.stephens wrote:

Allan.  Yes please.  It would be nice to see some more of your work.

Regards,

Terry


I'm not sure what you are actually complaining about, guys; but it seems to me that Terry invited Allan to put up the photos?



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To be honest I did ask Allan to post his pictures so any criticism of him is unfair.  However, I think Doug has a point as regards threads generally.  When a member posts pictures in someone else's thread without invitation, it can sometimes detract from the subject at hand and together with the ensuing replies, can lead the thread off topic.


Anyway, back to this topic.  Sorry Doug, I forgot to post a picture of the roof in place.  Weathering required.



I have a slight problem.  If you have the book 'Miniature Building Construction' please turn to the rear and have a look at the drawing of the village shop.  You will notice that just below the roof edge the eaves have an inverted castellated effect.  My question is this: is this part of the brickwork or is it the eaves, which would be wood?  Any ideas?


Terry

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That's probably what they call 'dog tooth'  brickwork. It was just a fancy way of topping out a wall at the eaves for no other reason than aesthetics.

Allan

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MaxSouthOz wrote: col.stephens wrote:

Allan.  Yes please.  It would be nice to see some more of your work.

Regards,

Terry


I'm not sure what you are actually complaining about, guys; but it seems to me that Terry invited Allan to put up the photos?


Thanks for that, Max.


You always get them - these complainers - and it makes you wonder if it's either a touch of the green eye, or simply that they've got nothing else better to do with their time.


Allan.

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allan downes wrote: That's probably what they call 'dog tooth'  brickwork. It was just a fancy way of topping out a wall at the eaves for no other reason than aesthetics.

Allan

Ah, thanks for that Allan. I have just got to work out the best way of replicating it.


Terry

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This might help'Terry.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=dog+tooth+brickwork&client=firefox-b&dcr=0&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=okb5RSoCE9Vj1M%253A%252CQv9H2Ckwxvrr7M%252C_&usg=__5bny92uDewBr3ps0ToN4RBvS2fo%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi186q-jqPYAhVNKlAKHddYA8gQ9QEIMjAE#imgrc=okb5RSoCE9Vj1M:

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Brilliant!  Thanks Allan.


Terry

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I gave some thought as to how to replicate the fancy brickwork under the eaves and decided that it could be achieved by gluing the appropriate brick or stucco paper to 1mm card, cutting a strip to the right depth and then cutting off small squares from the strip.  My trusty 'Chopper' came in handy to cut small squares all to the same size...



I used small card spacers to ensure the same space between each square of brick... 



Both sides of the building were quickly completed...



 



More soon.


Terry

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It looks like you've nailed it, Terry.  :thumbs

. . . or should that be, mortared it?  :lol:



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A neat solution Terry - I'd have said a tad overscale if I were being hypercritical, but, if you're covering it with a gutter, it will do nicely thank you .......... :thumbs.



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Thank you Max and Peter.  They do look rather large but I am actually working to a drawing by John Ahern and they are spot on.  Peter is quite right, the gutters will cover them to some extent. I forgot to mention that during the process of gluing the squares of card in place, I pushed a steel rule against the bottom edge of the squares to ensure they all lined up.


Terry

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Looking good Terry.

There must be a technical term for those blocks, but whilst I don't know what it is, I do know that they're a pain to do in 2 mill.

Regards,

David V

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Thanks David.


The gutters were glued on today (Evergreen No.242 half-round strip styrene). As you can see, they reduce the amount of fancy brick on view below the eaves...



 



Down pipes going on next.


Terry

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Now that does look better Terry - very impressive.  :thumbs



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She’s a beauty Terry.



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Thank you Peter and Marty.


The downpipes are made by my usual method - Evergreen No.221, 3/64" rod.  Always willing to try something new, I decided to make the small brackets, which hold the downpipes to the wall, from the same self-adhesive labels used in making the windows.   Part of the label was coloured black with a felt-tipped pen and a narrow strip cut off.  A 5mm long portion of the strip was cut off for each bracket and carefully laid in place and firmed down with tweezers.




 



I need to touch up the ends of the gutters with black acrylic and then on to the flashing around the chimneys.


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Subtle weathering was applied to the roof using watercolour paints.  I had previously sprayed the roof tiles with Testors Dullcote matt varnish before fitting to the roof.  This meant I was able to apply watercolour paint without fear of the ink running.  The tops of the chimneys were added using the strip of card covered in stucco paper, as used for the decorative brickwork under the eaves.  The flashing around the chimneys was added using Scalescenes TX00b Roof Flashing.



Chimney pots next and then the shopkeeper's name and some advertising signs to finish off.


More soon.


Terry

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Today I put the finishing touches to the model.  Rectangles of card were glued to the chimney tops to represent the mortar into which the chimney pots are set, these being commercial white metal items which are widely available.  Using watercolour paints I applied some more subtle weathering, such as rainwater streaks running down from the window sills. Advertising signs are from the excellent Sankey Scenics range.  Lastly, the shopkeeper's name was produced on my computer.  I have used the same name as per the John Ahern drawing.


Without further ado, here is the finished model...


 



 



 



Thanks for your interest and support during this build.


 


finis


 

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Wotesed  :thumbs


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Lovely.

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Hello,
Its been a well documented build and a pleasure to watch. Thank you
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Simply excellent  Terry  :thumbs
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Thank you all.  Very kind of you.


What to do next I wonder?


Time to peruse Mr. Ahern's book again.


Best wishes,


Terry

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A really lovely piece of work Terry :doublethumb

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Very atmospheric indeed, Terry.


A superb top-notch job and John Ahearn would have been very proud of you I'm sure.


Looking foreward to your next step-by-step  build if only to nick some of you're techniques !


Allan.

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Thank you one and all.  Allan, I'm sure you have got nothing to learn from me.  I must pay tribute to John Wiffen at Scalescenes.  Without the introduction of his kits I would never have taken up modelling buildings in card.  I was a committed plastikard and noxious solvent modeller.  However, I have discovered the joy of working in card.  It's cheap, clean, easy to work and feels natural.  There is the added benefit that the adhesives used do not give off toxic fumes.  I would also like to pay tribute to Doug (Chubber) who has freely shared his knowledge and from whom I have learned so much about working in this medium.


I was reflecting on the cost of this current build.  A whole sheet of mounting board, enough to make several buildings, costs about £2.50 or thereabouts.  The window glazing was free, being clear plastic packaging  salvaged from the recycling bin.   A pack of self-adhesive labels for the window glazing bars cost 99p for 50.  I used a couple.  I used part of two sheets of Scalscenes' paper - red brick and stucco, both at £1.99p each, print and use until you shuffle of this mortal coil, to quote Hamlet.  The cast chimney pots cost £2.00 but you could fabricate them yourself from rolled-up paper or use plastic tube.  The guttering and downpipes utilised two different types of Evergreen styrene strip, the cost of which is now getting on for almost £5 a pack, but again you get enough for several buildings.  I have used Artist's watercolour paints to add weathering, but I also use them for painting pictures.  You could use a cheap set of Chinese watercolour paints from your local £1 Emporium or even 'borrow' a cheap paintbox from your children or grandchildren, as the case may be.  


So, taking everything into account, I would estimate the cost of this build in terms of materials actually used, to be about less than £4.00  When I compare that to the cost of the current card kits, I think it's quite cheap.  You also get a building which is not going to be replicated on most other layouts.  Unless of course, in the case of this current build, there is a sudden rush to copy all of John Ahern's buildings! 


Regards to all,


Terry


 


 

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