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The Lincolnshire Loop. - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Aug 26th, 2017 06:41 pm
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Bunkerbarge
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I thought I might start off with a couple of pictures of the base board now that it is finished.  The base is Wickes Kitchen units on one wall with cut down MDF book shelves on the opposite wall with cheap B&Q doors on top of them.  This means the underside of the base is not available however I intend having almost all of the layout at higher levels above the base.  The outside mainline ring will be at 100 mm above the base, a lot of the next level down will be at 50 mm and there will be low lying areas at 25 mm.  A few bits and pieces such as the canal basin will be on the base board itself.  This means that points motors and wiring will not be immediately accessible after the layout has been completed although there should be little damage needed to get to anything.

The west wall needs completing with the six inch wide shelf that is to hold the outer main lines but that will be done when the rest of the shelf is fitted.  This will give a complete ring, needed for the live steam line.

 



You may notice the row of wooden knobs, this is the control area where the live steam and DCC controllers will be located.  The wooden knobs will be fitted with two tensioned wires, connected via pulleys to the operating arms of the points.  This will enable the points to be operated by rotating the wooden knobs.



















Yes, I'm kidding the wooden knobs are for the kitchen unit doors!! ;-)

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 Posted: Sat Aug 26th, 2017 09:23 pm
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Longchap
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Nah, I think the point control knobs should be to hand in a little cabin, not on the unit doors. That's just silly!

Bill



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 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2017 06:37 am
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Marty
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:mutley



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 Posted: Fri Sep 15th, 2017 05:44 pm
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Bunkerbarge
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Well I finally received my wood the other day and so was time to do a bit of more serious pondering.  I had decided to go for the back 'shelf' as being 100 mm high but the more I thought about it and the more I read about it the more I was unsure of the idea.  While 100 mm would give me a lot more scenic options in the future as regards bridges and tunnels etc. my big concern, and the one which I read more warnings about than anything else, was the challenges with gradients, in particular when using full length main line traffic.  Consequently I decided against 100 mm and while 75 mm would be a good compromise 50 mm allowed me to cut my wood stock in half and double the quantity of bearers.  I could then use the whole 17 foot length of the layout to arrange the transition lines between the main line and the branch lines.  One would be on one side of the layout and the other would be on the opposite side.

Consequently I cut the wood in half and started to build the 'shelf'.  The first piece was going to be a simple arrangement of a solid corner so the ply was marked out and cut and bearers prepared to support it.  The ply is only 3 mm thick, to allow easier cutting and shaping, so it will need good support to prevent any flexing so, despite a lot of scenic material on top that will solidify the structure, the bearers were placed quite close together for now.  The bearers are simply attached to the base with a bead of 'No More Nails' and the ply will be stuck on top in a similar way.  The holes in the bearers are for the cable for the steam circuit 'Bus' and will allow the whole bus to be installed and made operational before moving on to the installation of the lower levels.



















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 Posted: Fri Sep 15th, 2017 08:20 pm
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Bob K
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Live steam. This should be interesting.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 15th, 2017 11:29 pm
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Bunkerbarge
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The current thinking is that the outer ring will be the Live Steam line however it will be supplied from a change over switch enabling it to be supplied from either the Live Steam controller or the DCC controller, which will already be controlling the remainder of the layout, including another main line ring, which will run alongside the Live Steam ring.  The points joining the two parts of the layout will obviously need to be isolated from each other.  Hopefully it will all work OK but, to be sure, the Live Steam line and the adjacent DCC line will both be powered up and proven to be fully functional before the remainder of the layout is built and before any of the cabling is covered.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 25th, 2017 09:20 pm
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Bunkerbarge
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After a bit more playing around and a bit more pondering the shape of the first corner changed to give me an even larger radius for the main line and so the bearers were extended.  I also increased the width of the shelf to allow for two main lines side by side and around six inches behind it for a backscene and its transition.  The very regular lines will be broken up in the future when scenery is added to the layout as well as increases in terrain levels above the base and the shelf level.  In front of the 50 mm level will be an area of 25 mm high which will provide a suitable foundation for the more intricate levels to be added with easier to work scenic materials.  For now the main aim is an operational ring of two main lines and a period of proving before progressing to the next stage.



After the bearers were progressed along two of the main walls I decided to have a go at installing a part of the steam line ring bus.  This worked better than I had anticipated and it allowed me to fix the first piece of ply in position.  The ply is simply held down with beads of "No More Nails" on the top surface of the bearers and a good weight to keep it all in place intil it sets.





The bus was then pulled through to the point whereby the bearers need continuing and allowed me to get a feel for feeding it through the holes in the bearers. I also decided to fit some new lights to the ceiling to do away with the grim old flourescent tubes so they were replaced by some new low power LED units to give much better lighting.





Next job is to work out how to create the transistion in the corner to the narrow shelf across the wall adjacent to the staircase.  I want to put a geat deal of care into the construction of this part to ensure perfectly smooth trouble free running as a derailment across this stretch will end up with rolling stock flying down the staircase.  I think a suitable retaining wall and a perfect straight run should ensure no such problems.









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 Posted: Tue Sep 26th, 2017 12:44 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Hi Richard

Nice carpentry work.  :thumbs

However, aren't those bus wires a bit too close together?

Cheers



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 Posted: Tue Sep 26th, 2017 03:22 am
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Bunkerbarge
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I wasn't aware of any need to seperate them, is there a reason to do so?

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 Posted: Tue Sep 26th, 2017 03:51 am
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Sol
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Bunkerbarge wrote: I wasn't aware of any need to seperate them, is there a reason to do so?

Have a read Richard
https://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/home/dcc-general-best-practices/wiring-planing/twisted-pair-wiring
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn2/DCC.htm#Twist


from what I have read, either keep them apart or twist them.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 26th, 2017 11:28 am
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Bunkerbarge
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Thanks Ron, Interesting reading. From what I see twisting the two cores together during installation should ensure that i do not experience any challenges.  I'm not sure I can achieve 3 twists per foot but I'm sure I can get close!

Many thanks for the input gents, that is exactly why we share our projects with more experienced members.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 26th, 2017 11:33 am
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MaxSouthOz
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The invoices are in the post, Richard.  :mutley



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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2017 12:00 am
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emmess
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I'm not wiring for DCC and my layout is tiny, but I still found that reading fascinating - thanks!



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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2017 12:32 am
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Bunkerbarge
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Does anyone know what the safe distance should be between copper tape conductors if you are using them for a bus set up?  I have actually seen examples where the tapes cross over each other but this was not a very large layout.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2017 02:16 am
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Sol
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I used 1/4" wide tape on a plank an inch apart and when they to crossed over, clear plastic from those A4 protector sheets. Dropper wire soldered to it perfectly.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 01:18 am
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Bunkerbarge
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So now cable removed, stretched across the garden, twisted with a battery drill and rethreaded into the beginnings of the layout.

Job done, many thanks gents.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 01:27 am
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MaxSouthOz
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That looks the goods, Richard.

You should be able to pick it apart to make the dropper joints.

I use a craft knife to pare off the top of the insulation and then work an O ring pick under the other side.  The resultant hole makes an ideal clamp to hold the dropper wire while it's soldered.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 01:31 am
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Bunkerbarge
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What is the general feeling on using the scotch lock connectors that seem to be mentioned frequently?

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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 01:43 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Some like them, Richard - provided both wires are the same diameter.

I prefer to do it properly - with solder.

It's a very touchy subject.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 11:30 am
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The Q
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I'm with Max on this one for permanent connections, if there is a chance you may wish to undo the connection, and / or  it might be difficult to solder in there,  then I'd use Wago connectors.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Connectors-222-413-3-Port-Lever-Terminal/dp/B00DUJ96N0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506583490&sr=8-1&keywords=wago+connectors



 The three lever connections are common inside the block, they're rated for 32A and they are only about twice the size of Scotchlocs so not huge..



They also do them in 2 and 5 lever versions.



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