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Tain North Signal Box - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Jun 1st, 2008 03:35 pm
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darrenscots
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henryparrot wrote:Darren

another way of getting power up to lighting etc without using traditional round wire is using strips of copper that way it lays flat against a wall and you paint over it to blend it in aftewards.


Darren are you in the US for work reasons and singapore is your actually home or is scotland home. Just wondering where your layout will finally be?

cheers Brian.W


Brian, I like the copper strips but I will likely use that for the next build as I am too far advanced in my chopping and hacking. The refueling lighting thread alone also gives me some ideas for the future.

Yes I work in the US and my home base is Singapore (my wife is Singaporean) Layout will likely finally be in Singapore but when I have no idea :D

Diesel wrote:I totally forgot about the different voltage in the US :oops: sorry about that Darren but that lighting looks about right now :)

Brian, no worries , you were on the right track (pardon the pun) as Singapore is 220V/240V so Hornby would be fine. I like the modular format and think the pricing isnt too bad as you may be able to get the component parts cheaper, the need to solder etc it may be for many folks not worth the hassle (including avoiding burning your hands with the soldering iron!). I am quite happy now to tinker away with different resistors and bulbs as just like the real thing different buildings had different lighting levels.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 01:35 am
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darrenscots
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Today I completed the installation of the LED (i have put a thin piece of styrene round it just to finish the hole) on the inside of the signal box plus installation of a cover box above the LED in the roof space (this will be painted black to avoid light reflecting back up) I have also finished hacking the roof members (see to the right side on the second pic) to allow fitment of the cable in the finished roof.

Last night also completed some light dry brushing of the internals of the box.

I also generated the signs (brown lettering on a cream background) - I have printed them to card and will cut out the letters from two and glue onto the top of other two signs to give raised letters) - see bottom pic

I have also got myself to the final(ish) list...

1. Install Door
2. Paint inner roof lower & upper
3. Solder cables & heatshrink
4. Finials
5. Signs
6. Stove Pipe (upper)
7. Roof panels & Ridge
8. Paint Gutters/Downpipes
9. Install Gutters/Downpipes
10. Glue box internal panels in place & instrument bench & chair
11. Paint Outer Panels/Touch-Up Window
12. Repair window glazing bar damaged
13. Lower window cover
14. Install stairs & handrail







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 Posted: Sat Jun 7th, 2008 11:57 pm
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darrenscots
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Installed the external light today but I unfortunately fried the bulb later on with 12V!!



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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2008 12:05 am
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Sol
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Tsk, tsk, LEDs only need 2v & if using GOW of 12v, run them on around 9v - cut down brightnes, heat & prolongs the globe.
If using a 12v DC source & a LED, insert a 1000 ohm resistor in either leg of the LED.

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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2008 12:39 am
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darrenscots
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Sol wrote:Tsk, tsk, LEDs only need 2v & if using GOW of 12v, run them on around 9v - cut down brightnes, heat & prolongs the globe.
If using a 12v DC source & a LED, insert a 1000 ohm resistor in either leg of the LED.


Sol, understood re voltages and resistors - in this case operator error - the application of 12V was not a planned event :( (i have a switchable transformer and had forgotten that i had returned it to 12V after using it at 1.5V!)- my intention is to wire the internal and external lights together and use one resistor only.



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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2008 04:02 am
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darrenscots
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This evening I completed the installation and gluing in place of the internals. In addition I have fabricated new smaller downpipes for the gutters. For the bottom window i extracted a dusty window image and printed that to acetate. This was cut out and applied to the rear - this darkens it sufficiently so as not to be able to see into the base of the signal box (a little like a frosted window).





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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2008 09:24 pm
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darrenscots
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Been beavering away today (more successfully than yesterday!!)

Repaired the external light i blew.
Completed the fabrication of the downpipes - added joint pieces and paint.

I completed the internals touch-up, finished adjusting the inner roof and glued it in place (it was only then i noticed i had popped a glazing panel (it was lying on the inside) so had to remove roof, reinstall glazing and reinstall roof.)

Pic shows testing (i double checked transformer was at 1.5V this time!!) without the resistor - (Lights are therefore bit brighter) before soldering in resistors and joining cables up.

I also tried fabricating the signs by cutting out the letters and installing on top of the flat print - it looks worse than the flat print so I have decided to use as printed for now.



Remaining items shown in red below :

1. Install Door
2. Paint inner roof
3. Solder cables & heatshrink
4. Finials
5. Signs
6. Stove Pipe
7. Roof panels & Ridge
8. Paint Gutters/Downpipes
9. Install Gutters/Downpipes
10. Glue box internal panels in place & instrument bench & chair
11. Paint Outer Panels/Touch-Up Window
12. Repair window glazing bar damaged
13. Lower window cover
14. Install stairs & handrail



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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2008 10:13 pm
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owen69
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a good job very near the end now,strange how there is always more
"to do,) than done. :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2008 11:18 pm
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darrenscots
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owen69 wrote:a good job very near the end now,strange how there is always more
"to do,) than done. :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)


Owen I seem to add more items than I complete!!

Anyway i bashed on ahead - I soldered up the lights and resistor and switched on at 1.5V, 4V, 6V, 12V - nothing!!! (I then realised i had only used the resistor with one LED previously and not with the LED and the GOW Bulb together - away to do some quick calcs and installed a much lower resistance resistor - now have working lights but too bright - some more fettling to go!)

I have shown it with the roof loosely in place - some light bleeding out but a lot less than i imagined and this can be addressed with final fitout.

I have to stop now for the weekend.







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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2008 11:28 pm
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owen69
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now your cooking,great stuff.
:lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2008 11:55 pm
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darrenscots
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I thought i was going to finish for the night after my last post but I thought would finish off and complete the soldering and put in the final resistor. Now i am left to do the finishing parts.







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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2008 12:33 am
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MikeC
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I can't offer advice - way out of my league, but WOW that looks good!

Mike

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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2008 04:08 am
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phill
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That looks really good, i feel like knocking on the door and asking for a cup of tea.
Phill

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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2008 10:47 am
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Brilliant ! thats all I can say



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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2008 03:12 pm
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yep :D :D :D :D



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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2008 09:25 pm
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Darren

I take my hat off to you it looks really good. The detail shows up very well with the lights, making all that effort worth while. Outstanding job overall, a great effort and it has been an enjoyable read - what's next? :shock: :roll:

Bob(K)

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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2008 09:50 pm
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I've not posted much on this thread, but I've been a avid reader of your progress, Darren.
I really can't think of the right words to say, just that you have produced a masterpiece here, ranking right up there with Perry's goods shed and Wayne's silo :!:
Your attention to detail marks you out as a "master scratchbuilder".
Well done :!: :!:

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 Posted: Sat Jun 14th, 2008 10:49 pm
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darrenscots
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Folks thanks for the encouragement and support. A lot of the comments have spurred me to push this further and also it has provided a good training basis for all sorts of elements from the use of styrene, painting, wiring & electrical etc.

Well today i went backwards to go forwards. Whilst i was shrinking the heat shrink I inadvertently melted two of the windows so i had to remove internal roof, release the wiring and instrument bench to replace the glazing - the pic shows the two melted windows i replaced.

After completion of the reinstatement of the internal roof and wiring, I installed the external roof panels (after painting the undersides of the matt black), as well as stove pipe and ridge.





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 Posted: Sat Jun 21st, 2008 04:19 pm
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darrenscots
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This weekend will see me completing this hopefully.

Today, i refitted the 3 glazing bars that i had broken in the handling of wiring/lighting. In addition I removed and installed a new decorative bargeboard on the south end as the previous one was too short. Furthermore made a new bracket support for the access platform as I had cracked the previous in handling. The stairs and broken handrail were also reinstalled (this if you recall was as a result of the box being knocked off the table in an earlier part of the build!)

Lastly a little bit more sanding before some further final exterior coating.





Items in red remain on my latest to do list :
1. Finials
2. Signs
3. Install Gutters/Downpipes
4. Final Paint Outer Panels/Touch-Up Window Frames/Glazing bars
5. Repair windows glazing bars damaged
6. Install stairs & handrail
7. Replace support bracket
8. Replace decorative barge board north end



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 Posted: Sat Jun 21st, 2008 05:50 pm
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Go for it, Darren.
I can't wait to see it finished and sited.

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