Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Scratchbuilding. > Tain North Signal Box To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  Next Page Last Page  
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

Tain North Signal Box - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Wed May 28th, 2008 03:43 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 141st post
darrenscots
Member


Joined: Sun Dec 9th, 2007
Location: Scot Based In Singapore Now In Thailand
Posts: 544
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Marty wrote:Glad to help, there isn't a dress shop or shoe shop nearby is there?

Marty - unfortunately no but there is a perfume store nearby!

Have read the articles all now and the LED is the way to go - the shirt button reflector idea by Perry is spot on.

The other good thing about going to Fry's is the possible purchase of a nibbler tool (used for cutting sheet metal and circuit boards) - i have read somewhere that this is a good tool for using on styrene for cutting windows and such like.



____________________
Darren
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu May 29th, 2008 08:13 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 142nd post
Perry
Erstwhile scratchbuilder


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2657
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

My signal box isn't lit - yet. The lighting you refer to may have been that installed in my goods shed.

Perry



____________________
Due to cutbacks, the light at the end of the tunnel has been switched off.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu May 29th, 2008 08:22 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 143rd post
Bob K
Member


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Bedfordshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 2759
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Darren

Sparky (Reg) is an expert in the lighting area. I saw some buffers and street lighting he had done and what was impressive was the extremely thin wire he used, it was almost like a human hair it was so fine, powering a number of different LEDs. This produced almost scale wiring. If Sparky sees this he may comment or you could PM him - I am sure he would not mind me mentioning his name.

Bob(K)

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu May 29th, 2008 08:38 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 144th post
Marty
Enjoying the Journey


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia, Australia
Posts: 5993
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks Perry,
Must have been someone elses signal box my imperfect memory is trying to prompt me about.
All the best.



____________________
Marty
N Gauge, GWR West Wales
Newcastle Emlyn Layout.
Newcastle Emlyn Station is "Under construction"
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu May 29th, 2008 02:21 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 145th post
owen69
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Darren, just a thought but i have seen items lit with l e ds using
conductive paint instead of wire works very well too.
:idea: :roll: :lol: :lol:

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 06:51 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 146th post
darrenscots
Member


Joined: Sun Dec 9th, 2007
Location: Scot Based In Singapore Now In Thailand
Posts: 544
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Managed to get to Fry's on Friday night after doing a a further crash course on LEDs on Thursday evening (I found this site useful : http://ledcalc.com/)

I hadnt realised that there was huge price difference beween the colours blue/white and the rest (to do with the costs of the metals used apparentlt) - i bought yellow min LEDs and white LEDs and whole batch of different resistors. As all my transformers etc are sitting in storage, I also bought a cheap adapter to hack for the power supply plus cable (1 reel black & 1 reel red) and some 2 core connectors.

First up i cut off one of the standard power connectors of the power adpater unit and put on one of the 2 core connectors (these are a press fit only* and not soldered) and did the same with 2 lengths of the cable. (* actually soldered the first two (these were female connectors) but when I pulled out the next two metal connectors i realised that as these were male connectors i shouldnt have soldered the first two as they would not fit together inside one another if they were full of solder!!)

After that I soldered on the resistors onto the LEDs (and earned my first burn from a soldering iron (the last time i did soldering was when I was in school!)

I then cut a new hole in the (inner) roof and tried the yellow and white LED - the white is definitely the way to go as the yellow is nice but not sufficiently bright -if it was brighter then it would really have a yellow glow that would spoil the effect. (the third pic shows the yellow) It was difficult to photo the box with the darkened conditions - I tried many different approaches but I think I will need to practice more!













____________________
Darren
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 07:38 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 147th post
phill
Hello


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Lancing West Sussex, United Kingdom
Posts: 6496
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Well i reckon that looks the business mate, very well done.
I was wondering if i could do some lighting using just a mobile phone charger, wire a couple of leds to it, not sure if i can anyone know?
Phill

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 08:46 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 148th post
darrenscots
Member


Joined: Sun Dec 9th, 2007
Location: Scot Based In Singapore Now In Thailand
Posts: 544
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

phill wrote:Well i reckon that looks the business mate, very well done.
I was wondering if i could do some lighting using just a mobile phone charger, wire a couple of leds to it, not sure if i can anyone know?
Phill


Phill there is no reason that you cant do this provided that you put the correct sized resistor.(In fact you could do a USB connection...but i am getting away from the bounds of practicality)

A lot of cellphone chargers output at around 5V (but you do need to check your planned unit) and therefore install a resistor otherwise you will destroy the LED!



____________________
Darren
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 09:40 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 149th post
Sol
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Darren, you can increase the resistance so the white light tends to dull a bit & not be so bright - I will show both the yellow & white light photos to my mate who was a signalman at Edgeley Junctiuon for his comments.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 09:59 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 150th post
darrenscots
Member


Joined: Sun Dec 9th, 2007
Location: Scot Based In Singapore Now In Thailand
Posts: 544
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Sol wrote:Darren, you can increase the resistance so the white light tends to dull a bit & not be so bright - I will show both the yellow & white light photos to my mate who was a signalman at Edgeley Junctiuon for his comments.

Sol, thanks - with the photography the white one actually looks brighter than it is (ie you can look inside without trouble and see all the items whereas the photo makes it look like all you can see is something from Close Encounters!). I will be experimenting with the resistors (i bought a range of different resistors to try) to get it just right.



____________________
Darren
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 10:19 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 151st post
Diesel
Member


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: West Rainton Co Durham, United Kingdom
Posts: 822
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Darren have you had a look on the hornby site at the skaledale lighting ?



____________________

Brian(G)
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 10:22 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 152nd post
darrenscots
Member


Joined: Sun Dec 9th, 2007
Location: Scot Based In Singapore Now In Thailand
Posts: 544
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have been tinkering with the resistors and think the white light with a 3.9K Ohm Resistor is closest to what i need. (ignore the inner roof sticking up a bit- its just sitting loosely in place)



____________________
Darren
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 10:25 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 153rd post
darrenscots
Member


Joined: Sun Dec 9th, 2007
Location: Scot Based In Singapore Now In Thailand
Posts: 544
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Diesel wrote:Darren have you had a look on the hornby site at the skaledale lighting ?

Brian, no i havent and thanks for the tip (i will have a look). I have tried to be self sufficient as getting anything British Outline is difficult and/or expensive here in the US plus a lot of items are geared round 110V whereas when I return to either Singapore or UK it will need to be 220/240V.



____________________
Darren
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 10:25 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 154th post
Robert
Deceased Member


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Benidorm, Alicante, Spain
Posts: 12454
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

That looks perfectly natural Darren. I think that's just about spot on, to my eyes anyway.



____________________
The time in Spain is :


Barchester
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 10:48 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 155th post
Sol
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

That now looks a lot better.

(I am still chuckling over Close Encounters - now that you mentioned it - yes it was)

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 11:34 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 156th post
darrenscots
Member


Joined: Sun Dec 9th, 2007
Location: Scot Based In Singapore Now In Thailand
Posts: 544
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have decided to cut back the internal walls at the rear corners (they are not glued yet) - marked in red in the attached pic - they will not run all the way to the back - the space then created will allow the wires too pass up into the roof space without them being visible.I will also take a small piece out of the floor at the same intersection.



____________________
Darren
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Jun 1st, 2008 02:43 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 157th post
Sol
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Darren, I spoke to my signalman mate this AM about lights in Signal Boxes & he said that normally at night, the only light on was over the desk for any reading/writing required & the spill over was sufficient for signal to see where they were going around the box.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Jun 1st, 2008 03:56 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 158th post
darrenscots
Member


Joined: Sun Dec 9th, 2007
Location: Scot Based In Singapore Now In Thailand
Posts: 544
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Sol wrote:Darren, I spoke to my signalman mate this AM about lights in Signal Boxes & he said that normally at night, the only light on was over the desk for any reading/writing required & the spill over was sufficient for signal to see where they were going around the box.

Sol, thanks for the info and taking the effort to follow up, makes a lot of sense as i guess too much light limits how much you can see outside at night.


Have completed adjusting the walls (shown loosely in place) to allow the cables to run up inside - have knocked off a lever and the clock with all the trial fits! A lot of chopping and hacking on the inner roof to go.



____________________
Darren
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Jun 1st, 2008 07:58 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 159th post
henryparrot
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Darren

another way of getting power up to lighting etc without using traditional round wire is using strips of copper that way it lays flat against a wall and you paint over it to blend it in aftewards.


Darren are you in the US for work reasons and singapore is your actually home or is scotland home. Just wondering where your layout will finally be?

cheers Brian.W

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Jun 1st, 2008 02:49 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 160th post
Diesel
Member


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: West Rainton Co Durham, United Kingdom
Posts: 822
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I totally forgot about the different voltage in the US :oops: sorry about that Darren but that lighting looks about right now :)



____________________

Brian(G)
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 1510     Current time is 05:55 pm Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  Next Page Last Page    
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Scratchbuilding. > Tain North Signal Box
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic


Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topics

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.