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Tain North Signal Box - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Mar 16th, 2008 10:12 pm
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darrenscots
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Finished the doors today.

Thats me for another week unfortunately!





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 Posted: Sun Mar 16th, 2008 10:14 pm
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Robert
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It gets better and better Darren. It really is a first class job.



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Barchester
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 Posted: Sun Mar 16th, 2008 10:17 pm
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MikeC
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That's for sure!
I guess the chopper will be very helpful with the steps too.
Great stuff, Darren

Mike

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 Posted: Mon Mar 17th, 2008 12:36 pm
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looking good :)



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 Posted: Sat Apr 5th, 2008 01:28 am
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darrenscots
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I have been working 13hr days and weekends at work for the past few weeks so unfortunately no time for modelling!!!! (But was still able to read posts on the forum!!)

Today was my first day off so i got back to the Signal box with renewed vigour. Completed the fascia/barge boards and cut the corrugated iron panels. The lower window has taken a bit of a beating with all the handling but this will be rectified later.

Pic below shows roof panels temporarily in place. Unfortunately only clear panels available so roof panels shown have been given first coats so far.



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 Posted: Sat Apr 5th, 2008 12:43 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Nice to see you back at it Darren. I know how life can interrupt what we really want to do!

I will be interested in how you 'fix' the window!

Wayne



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 Posted: Sat Apr 5th, 2008 03:57 pm
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That's coming along really well, Darren. :D

Are you going to scratchbuild some interior detail?

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Apr 5th, 2008 09:42 pm
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darrenscots
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Today was spent installing the windows. Some fettling still to do on them but will do that when I get to the glazing.



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 Posted: Sat Apr 5th, 2008 09:47 pm
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darrenscots
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Perry wrote:That's coming along really well, Darren. :D

Are you going to scratchbuild some interior detail?

Perry


Perry, yes, but that may be something I do in the long term (floor and roof will remain removeable for now) Have already been doing some research on what is inside a signal box. Not many pix of the signal mans stove available!!



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 Posted: Sun Apr 6th, 2008 03:49 am
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phill
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Very nice darren, well done. It is coming along a treat.
Phill

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 Posted: Sun Apr 6th, 2008 10:12 pm
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darrenscots
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Today saw the completion of the stairs and installation onto the box. Thats it for this week.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 6th, 2008 10:21 pm
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Such a smart looking, beautifully put together job, Darren. It looks as if you have the banisters er... how do I say it? - pointy corner up :lol: :lol: I like it.


Mike

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 Posted: Sun Apr 6th, 2008 10:27 pm
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darrenscots
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MikeC wrote:Such a smart looking, beautifully put together job, Darren. It looks as if you have the banisters er... how do I say it? - pointy corner up :lol: :lol: I like it.


Mike

Thanks, Mike. The banister handrails on the the stairs are on the flat with the sharp edges slightly rounded (picture was taken in poor light) - once painted all will become clear (still lots of fettling to be done though!!)



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 Posted: Mon Apr 7th, 2008 12:35 pm
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Did you use a jig for the stairs Darren? I know how difficult it can be getting those treads just right.



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 Posted: Mon Apr 7th, 2008 04:09 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Please tell me Darren, that you took photos on how you did those Stairs, because I'd like to see how you did it!

They look factory made! Great job!

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon Apr 7th, 2008 09:19 pm
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Petermac
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I think we'd all like to see how you did the stairs Darren - very difficuly to do even with accurately cut steps - mine never, ever are !!! :oops: .

Petermac



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 Posted: Tue Apr 8th, 2008 12:39 am
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darrenscots
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Folks thanks for the positive comments.

Re the stairs, whilst not perfect, I think the biggest helper was the chopper as it at least meant the treads were all the same width!

I glued the first tread in the correct position in between the stringers and a temporary tread at the other end just to keep the stringers the correct distance apart.

I then took a piece of styrene* the desired height between the treads and used this to scribe against where the next set of steps to sit below (using the first permanent tread as the guide). I marked using a 0.3 pencil on both stringers and then followed up with the next step glued following the pencil lines, marked again using the styrene as a gauge between the steps and so on..Once I got to the end I removed the temporary tread and installed the final tread in the correct spaced position.

I have tried to illustrate using some scrap strip - example shown only shows one stringer for clarity.

(*I actually made a "box" gauge first but the strip was easier to use..see 2nd pic below)





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 Posted: Tue Apr 8th, 2008 12:28 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Thanks for the info Darren, but I have more questions. Did you do a drawing of the steps first, to determine the correct spacing of the treads and angles of the stringers? Or just do the math?

I think if I tried that the steps would be slanting down or up instead of being flat, or something that disastrous. Even getting the rail posts vertical can be a challenge.

Wayne



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 Posted: Tue Apr 8th, 2008 02:47 pm
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darrenscots
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Wayne Williams wrote:Thanks for the info Darren, but I have more questions. Did you do a drawing of the steps first, to determine the correct spacing of the treads and angles of the stringers? Or just do the math?

I think if I tried that the steps would be slanting down or up instead of being flat, or something that disastrous. Even getting the rail posts vertical can be a challenge.

Wayne


Dwayne, no drawing - I sketched out the angle of the stairs and did a dry fit of the stringers to the box to see whether it looked right. I then worked out the required height between the treads based on the photos that I had (that is why the temporary tread is removed at the end as it invariably will need to be relocated to the correct relative position to the second to last tread once you have worked all the way down)

The angle of the first tread is relative to the level of the platform it connects to so once I had installed it I double checked that it was parallel to the platform on the box so as to set the angle for all the rest of the treads.

I think once you get going, you will be fine. Once of the key aspects is to stop frequently and look at it by the eye and trial fit to the box - if it looks right, it is!! (my wife even asked me when i was building it "why do you keep double checking the stairs?")



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 Posted: Wed Apr 9th, 2008 02:41 am
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darrenscots
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I grabbed an opportunity to fabricate the internals of the roof and the internal ceiling panel(s). Pix show construction and it installed temporarily. It will need some final tweaks to sit properly. This unit will allow the roof to be removeable.







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