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The Faversham Creek Railway - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 11:10 pm
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Not much time in the loft, working on the layout, but a little progress on my workbench.  Firstly, I've been working on the turntable.....
A little weathering





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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 11:13 pm
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And work on the top, in progress.  I know, it's shocking..... an empty wine glass!
I thought the kit looked a bit too perfect, so I've done a bit of work to bend a few things and give it a bit of history!





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Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 11:17 pm
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And I made some planking for the warehouse.  This is just a lolly stick.  I scribed the lines for the individual planks, then with a pin added the nail holes.  Then gave a coat of woodstain.  This is light oak







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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 11:18 pm
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This is where it will go on the warehouse.....




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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 11:22 pm
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I've fitted the first guttering.  This is half a bamboo skewer with a channel carved, which I have described earlier in this thread.  I glued on a piece of paper to create the end, which I cut to size and shape once the glue had set.  




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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 11:47 pm
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There is a website I use which produces "textures"  These are basically photographs of things like walls and doors and floors etc. which you can manipulate, or stitch together.  I made the walling for the well of the turntable in this way.  I am pleased with the result and it's free!.  I am pretty certain the website is listed in the resources on this forum.  
There may be a better way to create printable brickwork, but all I do is copy the image to word and then size it correctly (checking that the image on my screen is at 100%).  I then copy and paste the image as often as I need to.  I might invert images sometimes to get them to match up, or for a bit of variation.  







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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2018 07:03 am
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Hi Michael. Very good, work on the turntable weathering . It doesn’t  look like a Peco product , you have made a toy into a model.  Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2018 04:40 pm
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Michael re the turntable there is no reason why you cant attach power from the dcc bus as long as its the same as the required voltage to your motor kit i dont know what dcc system you use but a lot of the better units you can actually adjust the voltage to give the correct voltage on the track for locos so in some cases the voltage could be as high as 14-15 volts which could be to much for your TT motor.
Many of us actually have a separate bus that supplies all accessories like point motors etc so not to interfere in any way with track power these are supplied by a separate transformer usually.

Your simplest solution would be a switch to change polarity which you could manually change yourself or somehow set up a microswitch arrangement somehow.
You can buy the electronic polarity changers which work fine and the change over is seamless with one of those but of course there is a cost i have not looked but i would assume about £30 or so i have 2 of those i used before an LDT one and a Onguard dcc circuit reverser both easy to install.

I have never tried to do a peco table so i cant really say an easy way to cheaply stop it in the right place i assume you could do it using microswitches and relays.

Brian



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 Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2018 05:04 pm
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Hi Michael

I agree with Brian......a separate supply for accessories ie the TT motor is a good idea.

Regarding polarity....I checked the Brian Lambert site and he is very explicit that connecting the DCC bus to the split rings provides power to the bridge and the split rings resolve the polarity issue. I couldnt see the video he referred to and I confess I couldnt follow the diagram, however he is very competent........I would wire it up as he suggests.

Indexing.......I wonder if a wire in tube device could be installed as a retractable stop? It sounds as though it will be turned on and off by a manual switch and there is only one exit. Even guide marks on the perimeter might work.

One question are you planning to insert a circuit breaker on the DCC Bus to protect against shorts? Strongly recommended.....mine must have saved me hundreds of dollars.

Cheers

John.






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 Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2018 06:16 pm
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Thank you for your kind words Kevin.  When it is in place it is quite subtle, which I think I like.  Once it is all painted I will have a go at adding grease and grime which might bring it alive - or look like I've dropped powder everywhere!  We shall see...

Thank you Brian, but I wasn't very clear in my post.  I was wondering about wiring the track on the TT into the DCC track bus.  I think I have this answered now.  The motor will be controlled separately, or via the DCC accessory bus.

And finally, thank you too John.  I could not see the video either, perhaps that was my confusion.  Once I had it all made and set up so that I could actually see how it worked, it made sense.  I do have trouble visualising these things!  With the split ring, there are two dead spots as the TT rotates, which means there is no power to the track, but as I do not have sound, it will only effect lights briefly, which I think I can live with.  The driver just keeps leaning on that button!

I had kind of come around to the idea some sort of physical indicator or physical block myself, so long as I am alert and don't burn out the motor as it tries to progress.  But I will be following your earlier suggestion and operating it by hand to begin with while I finalise track arrangements.  I have already progressed to the idea of a small loco shed for a shunter coming from the TT, so at least one extra exit - maybe two.  In the prototype, locomotives dropped wagons off in a siding and small shunters came and took them to their various points at the quay - no other locos were permitted in the quay area, so the shunter will need a home and service area, unlike the other locomotives which were serviced at the mainline station.

My DCC system has a pretty good cut out and alarm for short circuits - do I need additional protection?  What is the potential damage and cost??  Honestly, I remember when we were told all you need is DCC and two wires!!  Well that is certainly not the case, looking under my baseboards!!

Thanks to all for your helpful comments, all much appreciated.

Regards

Michael



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 Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2018 09:37 pm
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Hi Michael
Sounds like the TT is sorted.....you are clearly getting into the right spirit with a second exit.


Short circuit protection......you need to be satisfied that the system will close down before there is the slightest risk of frying a decoder. When I started I was paranoid about this so I installed PSX circuit breakers between the Lenz unit and the DCC bus and they have worked perfectly.  I think there maybe a simple test to establish that your systems cut off is sufficiently sensitive.....I will see what I can find. Maybe someone more knowledgeable than I knows the answer already?


Regards


John



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 Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2018 10:00 pm
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Thank you John.  I have already ordered a PSX after doing a bit of research following your question!  Glad I seem to have made a good choice!  Am I right in thinking they auto restart the system once the short circuit is resolved?

Many thanks

Michael



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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2018 10:10 pm
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John Dew
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Good choice.
Yes they auto restart the system when the short is sorted

Try and mount the unit where it is easily visible. If a loco stops unexpectedly the first thing I do is glance at the PSX lights

Cheers

John



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 Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2018 10:12 pm
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Thanks - another useful tip!

Michael



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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2018 10:33 pm
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The warehouse is coming along slowly.  the front is now painted and some fruit boxes have arrived.   I've put the second floor in, and some more stock.  One more floor to go and the top floor ceiling and I can put the other sides and the roof on, all of which have been cast and made and add the lighting.








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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2018 10:37 pm
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I had some left over plastic from the TT kit.  I hate throwing things away and always look for how I might use something.  Here I have cut the right angles to form barge boards for the warehouse.  I scratched in some wood grain and will be able to fit them to disguise the thickness of the roof.  Another freebie!



Sorry about the poor focus.  Must have been my excitement!!



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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2018 10:45 pm
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Another Linka experiment, this time a platform.  A few castings which I have had to chop about to make the right size.  Then painted in various grey tones and given washes of grey and dirty brown.  Finally adding the white edging.  





Out of interest, does anyone know when platforms started to be edged in white? Was it always the case, or did H and S step in at some time?

Michael  



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Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2018 11:25 pm
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Hmm, good question Michael and without looking it up, I suspect it was during the war as precautions against the Luftwaffe, but I'm prepared to be better educated!

Bill



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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2018 11:35 pm
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An interesting answer Bill, and not one I had predicted.  I shall refrain from searching for a definitive answer and see what the combined minds of Your Model Railway Club can come up with.....

Michael



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Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Wed Nov 28th, 2018 06:15 am
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John Dew
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I am pretty sure it was during WWII ......thats is also when the base of signal ladders were painted white I believe



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