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The Faversham Creek Railway - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Fri Oct 26th, 2018 01:55 pm
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Headmaster
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Thank you Dave.  I am not very good at visualising 3D space, nor the scale size of things, so this helps me a lot!  And the pictures of the final buildings also give me a reference point for what it will look like, so I can play around until I get the scene right.

It's cold and wet here.... you are probably better off in Spain!

Regards

Michael



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Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Sat Oct 27th, 2018 12:57 am
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No work on the layout as we had the granddaughter for the day.  Delightful, but I'm on half term and have a schedule!!!  I did however, manage to experiment this evening with making a small step ladder, shovel and what will become a broom.... Just to see if I could make them!  Might end up near the fence and a warehouse. The penny gives an idea of scale.

The holes for the steps were drilled with an Archimedes drill - a delightful little tool.









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Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Sun Oct 28th, 2018 10:21 am
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TeaselBay
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That looks brilliant. I might have a go!

Headmaster wrote: Not much done today except an experiment in making a rickety fence which I think will go at the rear of some warehouses that will feature at the quay.   These were made from chopped up coffee stirrers and lolly sticks, soaked in wood dye.






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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2018 09:46 pm
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Thanks Chris!  Rickety is easy to do.  I haven't managed to make a nice neat one yet!  



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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2018 09:54 pm
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The first warehouse is under construction - but typically, no builders to be seen!!  The ladder is another homemade effort while watching television.... and the broom has some bristles now.





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Michael

Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2018 10:04 pm
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This warehouse is being constructed using Linka moulds and resin, but that won't be any good for when I come to model actual buildings.  I've made card kits, but can never get them to look like anything other than.... cardboard with paper stuck on.  They work well for buildings in the distance or hidden by a bit by scenery but always look a bit flat to me.  I've seen the card work of others and they look great, so I'm not sure what I am doing wrong.  Has anyone had any success with a card frame covered in Slater's embossed plastic sheets in OO gauge?

Michael



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Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Wed Oct 31st, 2018 02:37 am
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Headmaster wrote: This warehouse is being constructed using Linka moulds and resin, but that won't be any good for when I come to model actual buildings.  I've made card kits, but can never get them to look like anything other than.... cardboard with paper stuck on.  They work well for buildings in the distance or hidden by a bit by scenery but always look a bit flat to me.  I've seen the card work of others and they look great, so I'm not sure what I am doing wrong.  Has anyone had any success with a card frame covered in Slater's embossed plastic sheets in OO gauge?

Michael

Hi Michael

I was just about to respond to your earlier post and ask how you made the ladder? It looks so much more realistic than the cast off Ratio signal ladders that I use.

As you know I am a big Scalescene fan........he has progressively made his kits more three dimensional, and consequently more complicated, but the end result does overcome the flat look you refer to. Chubber, of this parish, taught me the key to acceptable card modelling.......sharp blades, multiple cuts and careful scoring of corners.
I know you are not supposed to mix media but I always add plastic guttering, drain pipes and often doors to my models.....I dont think the supplied card versions work.

To answer your question above.....yes I have. Both the dairy and the stables on Granby are made from Slater sheets on card. I can dig out a photo if you wish or point you to the post#s on Granby

Best wishes

John



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 Posted: Wed Oct 31st, 2018 06:15 pm
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Thank you John - I will go back through Granby to find the dairy.  I do like the scalescenes models - by far the best for me. I think in the past I may have been too quick to get them finished.  As I have some downloaded I may give them another go, but more patiently.  Then I can have a go at a bit of scratchbuilding/kit bashing.  Small steps at a time.

The ladder is coffee stirrer sticks cut down.  Holes drilled with an Archimedes drill and wire threaded through and glued into place, then all filed down smooth.  That way you see where the rungs are from the side. as in good old wooden ladders.  In truth the wood is a bit over scale for an OO ladder, but I don't think it shows up too much. But it might be if I add figures.  It's not too fiddly, but it does take a while and very satisfying to finish.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 31st, 2018 07:03 pm
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Hi Michael i assume you are using a fastcure resing mix in your Linka moulds?
I have a couple of kilo tins of that that i have never used at one time i was going to make a mould for retaining walls but i didnt get that far before having to dismantle the layout.

Brian



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 Posted: Wed Oct 31st, 2018 09:47 pm
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Hi Brian

Yes, it is a fast cure compound.  Out of the mould within 15 minutes, so I can get a production line going quite easily.  I have also made some of my own moulds from silicon which work quite well - so long as the gaps are all filled.  I can mould a whole wall or side of a building which makes production of repeat buildings very quick and easy.  It's great for things like retaining walls.

Michael



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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 08:22 am
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Hi Michael.   Terrific work, I do like the way that the baseboard blends with the backscene , it looks so natural. Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 05:53 pm
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Thank you Kevin.  I will be honest: when I started it wasn't a deliberate plan.  But with the colour of the static grass I used (which was actually a mixture of several colours) I noticed how similar it was to the backscene and so added dry grass and foliage which matched the scene and the two blended very nicely indeed. That's the way I will go now.

Michael



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Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Mon Nov 12th, 2018 10:44 pm
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The ground floor has been added to the warehouse.  This is simply cut coffee stirrers glued to a cardboard base.  The sticks are then coloured with wood stain and given a beeswax polish




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 Posted: Mon Nov 12th, 2018 10:52 pm
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Hi Michael. I have been trying to buy coffee stirrers, but I cannot purchase them anywhere. If I was the wrong “ type “ ? I could pop into McDonald’s and grab a handful. In the meantime I have lots to be getting on with.Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Mon Nov 12th, 2018 11:09 pm
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I thought that I ought make something in storage.  I've decided this will be a general provender store - here are some barley sacks.  They are made from synthetic clay, which hardens in the oven.  I find this a very useful medium to work with for small items like this, and easily done while watching TV with SWMBO!!







Then just a coat of paint and a bit of a dark wash and here they are in situ...




And then I thought I might have a go at some crates of fruit....





I think these will look fine inside the warehouse.  I might have to go for a little more accuracy and detail for products outside, being loaded, but quite good enough for inside.  And cheap! I love cheap....

Michael



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Faversham Creek

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 Posted: Mon Nov 12th, 2018 11:15 pm
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Hi Kevin


I must confess I grab a few stirrers when I buy a drink in one of those over priced chains of coffee shops!  I can buy lollipop sticks - £1 for a hundred.  I used these for the large crate in the photo above.
Regards
Michael



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 Posted: Tue Nov 13th, 2018 07:20 am
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Hi Michael.  Thank you very much. I don’t frequent “ over priced coffee chains “, I do however visit the occasional £1.00 shop and I keep looking for them.  Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Tue Nov 13th, 2018 05:39 pm
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Hi Michael

I do like the way the warehouse is developing.......genuine wood floors polished with beeswax...whats not to like? So much better than Wills plastic.

I also like the stock you are creating for it. I always think its good for buildings to br dtailed so they look as though they are in use (your ruined Abbey excepted of course) :lol:.

You mentioned your need for a simple DCC turntable on Brian's thread. Could I ask how you want to control the TT?  Do you want to switch it through your DCC throttle (cant remember if you have mentioned how turnouts will be operated)

Best wishes

John



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 Posted: Tue Nov 13th, 2018 07:18 pm
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Hi John, thank you for the kind comments.  I am always wary of posting pictures as things develop, without having the finished article to go, "And here it is finished!!"  I thought it might be useful to some to see that you can still make things when away from the layout.  People may end up seeing little of the inside, but I will know it is there!  It also helps me feel like the scene has purpose - which is what I love about your detailing.

All of the turnouts are controlled by DCC concepts digital motors and can be controlled from the digital controller.  But they are also wired into levers, so can also be controlled manually.  A bit daft, I should have gone down an analogue route..... but the layout has grown in terms of the number of points and I decided I would like some manual control.  There are other advantages to using their digital motors though, (like less wiring and control of LEDs and ground signals,) so I have decided the small extra cost is probably worth it. 

As to the turntable, I don't necessarily want a DCC one, although I guess there are advantages to that.  As the turntable at the real Faversham was only used to turn locomotives 180 degrees, that is all I will need it to do, so cost is a consideration.  I have never modelled a TT and don't really understand all the different ways to power and control them, or how you get tracks to line up - other than on the more expensive DCC versions, which I don't think I can justify.  So if you have any tips or advice, I am all ears!!

Regards

Michael



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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 03:02 am
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John Dew
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Hi Michael

As you are not planning to run Faversham automatically you really dont need a turntabe with all the bells and whistles.

You will need address Polarity. When a loco is driven on to the turntable, the bridge wiring matches that of entry track. When the 180o turn is completed this will not be the case unless the polarity is switched during the turn. This can be done manually or you can fit devices like those used for reverse loops.

You also need to think about indexing........how does the bridge when it has completed its turn stop so that the track lines up precisely with the exit track. This can be done manualy ie by eye or you can buy/make some form of stepping motor.......I know very little about this but BCDR can help........ check his Sugar Cane shed.

The fact you only need a single entry/exit track does simplify matters. I would think about initially installing something inexpensive like Peco/Hornby/ Dapol and operate it manually for a while.If you are so inclined you may well be able to hook up a motor......many people have done so and there are plenty of videos.

If you are like me, a useless engineer but moderately competent electrically,  I would keep an eye out for a used Fleischmann non DCC  turntable* which comes with a simple switch. It would probably do everything you need and might cost about the same as a Peco TT, Motor,Polarity reverser switches etc.

One thing to bear in mind is the aperture you need to cut in the baseboard. The dimensions vary. I would cut the biggest aperture which will accommodate the smallest TT you might consider in the future.

Turntables are a wonderful feature on a layout and if you get it set up right provide loads of enjoyment

HTH

Cheers

John

* My Granby thread is about a Fleischmann with bells and whistles but I have a second Fleischmann like the one above which I bought used for ninety bucks 15 years ago. Its a bit clunky but it wheezes happily around its 2 exits.......and it does that automatically!



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