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BCDR
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Hi All,

Change of gears for next year - back to 7mm scale narrow gauge (16.5mm gauge, 2.9 feet track).

Sorting through the spares boxes recently I came across a Bagnall 0-4-0 saddle tank kit, part built, by Wrightlines. Just the job for a small cameo layout of a quarry/chalk pit (which is why I originally bought it). After a bit more searching I came across the paperwork that came with it. And that's when the fun started.

I bought the kit at a 7mm Narrow Gauge Association annual meeting in 2004 in Burton-on-Trent, memorable for the failure of the organizers to get a license for the consumption of beer. Good job there was a pub next door to the meeting place. Bought from the Association trade stand as "part built and complete", I now realize both descriptions would not meet even a lax definition of either. I was going to junk the kit and use the white metal parts for other purposes, when a discussion with John (Brossard) nudged me into getting into O-scale narrow gauge (again). Nothing like a change of pace, and for me O-scale narrow gauge has the advantage of using 4mm scale track.

The first bit of paperwork with the kit says that the chassis from a Dapol 0-4-0 is used to mount the white metal body and cosmetic valve gear. The second, clearly much later, describes an etched chassis construction and brass body build. What's in the kit is a dog's breakfast, consisting of an etched and modified chassis (possibly to take an 0-4-2 wheel arrangement), cosmetic valve gear, and white metal body. The body appears to have been built at some stage using solder and epoxy, then dismantled (or more likely dropped), and there are various duplicate bits. Plus a few bits missing, notably the valve gear, and broken (the footplate and cab sides). With the exception of the valve gear rods, all the white metal detail bits appear to be there. One cylinder valve cover is missing, and has been replaced by a styrene scratch build. Most of the broken bits look to be repairable. It came with a Branchlines motor and gearbox, and Romford wheels, so not so bad.

The following diagram was useful for identifying the parts in the box.




Problem 1 - broken roof stay. I can't see the missing piece in the box. 




Problem 2. The footplate extension fits under the cylinder saddle, the broken bit is in the box.




Sort of a problem 3. This is either some really poor soldering or old epoxy and what happens when you drop a white metal from 3 feet. Should clean-up OK.




Major bits and pieces. Duplicate saddle tanks, chassis half-built, styrene replacement valve cover, 3 axles (??), minuscule motor and gearbox (probably a 40:1 or even 50:1 ratio). The motor sits inside the firebox.
 



Close up of dummy valve gear and chassis extension. I hope those top-hat bearings are true and straight.




The detail bits I have been able to identify so far. There are a few more that may or may not belong to the kit.




Wrightlines was taken over by ABS models several years ago, spare parts are problematic at best. I think there is enough there to get a model up and running. I've tackled worse porcine ears (but not in a long time). Should be fun.

Nigel




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Go for it Nigel!  3 axles???  I would do a complete strip and clean up.  I think I'd re-do the chassis, it's critical and shouldn't rely on whoever had it before.  Do it yourself and you know it's right.  At least there's a motor and GB.

:doublethumb

John

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Hi John,

3 sets of wheels, two holes. Hmm. The previous owner could have been a tad ambitious.

A dunk of the body parts in paint stripper for a week is probably called for to get rid of any epoxy, followed by a dunk in acetone to get rid of any CA. Then some desoldering. If that chassis is straight, all well and good. If not it's going to be a total strip down. Some measurements tomorrow.

A bit of scraping tonight showed epoxy, CA, and solder. And that's just the assembled chassis, cylinders and valve gear castings. That styrene valve cover is bothering me as well. Perhaps some silicone rubber molds from the white metal one followed by a bit of casting with hard solder is called for.

Nigel 


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It'll all be good when you're finished the strip.

I don't know, I would, as a point of principle, use solder for the structural parts - whitemetal or brass.  I use about 355C on my iron for brass (sometimes higher for large pieces) and, 300C for W/M - seems hot I know but the trick is to get and out and make the joint.

For small details I'm not averse to CA.

I like the idea of making parts by copying others.  That will be a good tutorial I think.

John

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Hi John,

What I though was CA is old solder (first builder?). The sections that has been epoxyed on are the motion brackets and their frame across the chassis (second builder?). So rather than a dunk in methylene chloride and methanol for a week or so (with disposal issues afterwards) I'll see if it can be removed with the saw, needle files and the big blade. Plus some delicate work with the iron.

Nigel


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Next episode in silk ears from pigs purses. That doesn't sound right...

Body and chassis has been broken down into the component bits. Turned out to be a combination of solder and epoxy holding it together (mainly epoxy). The only thing I didn't disassemble was the smokebox and cylinder yoke, as they're both square. The upper cab front sheet and sides were tacked on with epoxy (why?), I'll use that in another project (well, at least the front spectacle sheet and half the sides).

One of the interesting things about white metal and solder is that while it is relatively easy to solder components up, it often doesn't work the other way. I had the iron at around 300°, this white metal melts well below that. I resorted to a fine saw blade to separate the footplate from the cab frame after melting a hole at the edge.. A bit of judicious bending straightened out the rear buffer beam. I removed most of the accumulated grime with #150 paper and a fine brass bristle head in the Dremel.

I have found a picture of a slightly later Bagnall with only a veranda, I'll post as soon as I get permission (hopefully) from the copyright owner.

Several repair jobs need to done, see pictures and text.

The "kit". The previous modeler (I'm using that term lightly) had soldered and epoxyed the cab plate/buffer second row right) to the running plate (third row down). You can see what the desoldering did to the edge of the footplate. There is actually no need to use anything other than the 3 bolts to hold it all together (including the cab sides). It's not as if it's difficult to see where the holes are. Getting the valve gear bar off was the most difficult, again it was a combination epoxy and solder. Which ruled out the paint stripper treatment to dissolve the epoxy. And it wasn't straight.




Test fit of the footplate and cab plate showing where the holes line up. Plus that molten edge to the footplate. An obvious repair is in the plans. The Bagnall-Price valve gear yoke cleaned up nicely. That styrene valve cover sticks out like a sore thumb. Off to Michaels tomorrow for one of those paint-it-on silicone mold kits, which I'll use on the good one to make a cast. Some 100° solder should do the trick.




Repair job 1. The missing piece on the end of the frame is attached to the underside of the smokebox  with epoxy. If I can get it off I'll solder it back where it belongs, if not a bit of brass soldered on will do. The smokebox is supposed to be attached to the cylinder yoke with a BA screw, allowing for easy assembly after painting and for any disassembly. Not glued to the frame.




Repair 2. For some reason 2 pieces were cut of the sides of the smokebox and then reattached. They need stabilizing on the inside with some additional solder, and filling with fine filler on the outside after cleaning out the cracks. This part is going to be very visible as there is no front sheet or sides to the cab.




Backhead detail. Not bad for an old model. All of the bits to be added are in the box, so all that needs doing is to drill some holes.



Nigel
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Still watching . . . :cool:

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Rivetting...

:chicken

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Hi John,

:chicken??

Nigel

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Hi Nigel, happy to see you doing this kit - my virtual chicken dance.


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Hi John,

Ah, "the most annoying song of all time". I managed tune out when it was going the rounds in the '80's (not hard to do in France and Québec). Hence the ??

Nigel

Onward, upward, hold on, where's the path gone?

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Well, you REALLY don't want to see my real dance.  :cheers

John

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An afternoon with the black arts (white metal soldering).

Essentially repairs to the damage done by previous owners (plus my hot iron melt of the cab floor). As some of this work was quite finicky I ordered a temperature controlled iron. Worked a treat, melted the 100° solder, didn't melt the bodywork.

The fancy-smancy soldering station. It's a Kendal, every workshop should have one. 200°-850°, ceramic heating element. I did all the work at 210°.




Repairs to the splits in the firebox.




And t'other side.




My previous white metal melt repaired.




Cab sides attached with nuts and bolts. The cab floor was soldered to the chassis plate.




The underside. Brass nuts soldered in recesses with bolts in place. The bolt threads were treated with a 2B pencil to stop the solder sticking.




The silicone putty molding kit came this morning, so I made a mold out of the good valve cover and cast a replacement one using 100° solder. The silicone is food-grade, and good for 250°C in the oven, so it was quite happy with 100° solder.  Not bad. I might try a resin cast (or even an epoxy one), as the white metal shrinks when cooling.




Nigel

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Great progress. Those parts are looking good now.  I always struggle with soldering nuts - good tip.  I've used oil on the threads but not so precise.  I like your casting.

I concur with your recommendation regarding a soldering station, very useful indeed and mine has transformed my soldering.

John

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Hi John,

Thanks. It's amazing how a precise temperature makes soldering a lot easier, especially white metal work. I think I'll go with the valve cover casting as is (after a bit of judicious filing), curvy side on the inside it should look OK. I was really pleased with the repairs to the firebox, that turned out a lot better than I expected.

The idea is to get the cab sides nicely in position with the nuts and bolts, then tack solder to keep them in place. The firebox needs to be able to be removed for painting and servicing the motor (it really should be one unit with the boiler/saddle tank/smokebox), I'm still working on that. The back half-sheet has had its locating tabs removed sometime in the past, I have a plan for something a bit better than a plain vanilla butt-joint.to the cab floor.

Soldering nuts and making sure the bolts are not soldered up: A 2B or 4B pencil works well, the idea is to get some graphite on the threads, which solder hates. Less messy than oil. The holes were a bit big on the bolt side, I had to remove some metal to get them to line up with the nut holes. A bit of flux and solder filled the holes, the bolts unscrewed as if nothing had happened. The other thing that works well and only takes a few seconds is brass blackening solution - solder will not stick to selenium salts. 

Nigel


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Yes, tacking is the key to successful assembly.  It's much easier to undo a tack than a seam if a mistake is made - speaking from experience.

John

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My F-in-L has a few steel bolts/screws,
which he uses when soldering nuts in
position, the solder doesn't like steel.

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Hi Jeff,

Good point re steel nuts and bolts. Generally a bit cheaper than brass, but whether solder sticks depends on the flux and the solder. Unless you are unlucky (and it's cheap, low quality steel) lead-tin solder doesn't stick. If it does it's normally a cold joint. Once you start using some of the more aggressive acidic fluxes (phosphoric acid for example) and lead-free solder it can stick. The 100° solder I use is lead-free, I always clean the metals to a bright finish and degrease immediately before soldering using a mild no-clean organic-acid flux (which contain a weak dicarboxylic acid such as malic acid).

It takes 10 seconds to go over the brass threads with the pencil. Pencil leads contain graphite, clay and a bit of wax, so the "non-stick" surface is probably a greasy coat of graphite. A 2B pencil is 74% graphite, 20% clay and 5% wax (the other 1% is who knows what, manufacturing tolerance probably). A 4B is 79% graphite, 15% clay and 5% wax. Bees knees is an 8B, 90% graphite. Expensive though.

Big issue with white metal soldering is the composition (and therefore melt temperature) of the metal. Some of these old kits have very low melting temperatures, almost the same as the solder (in which case use CA and or epoxy). If there is a bit of spare metal with the kit always worthwhile testing it and the solder. Which I should have done of course with this "kit".

Nigel

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Hi All,

Bit more work on the Bagnall this morning.

I used that "white metal" casting (100°C solder, which is pretty hard) of the valve cover that I made previously. Filed down to pretty much the thickness of the other one, I used CA to fix as there really wasn't anywhere to get the iron in. Two of the bolt heads need replacing, I have some Archer O scale decal (transfer) ones around somewhere.




I had to put some brass spacers/stiffeners underneath the white metal footplate and cab plate.The wheels fouled it when in position as is, and it was way too bendy for its own good at the "T" junction. Poor design. This leads me to conclude that it really is a mongrel kit, with the white metal body intended for a Dapol chassis, and the nickel-silver chassis from another later kit or even model. Looking at photographs of these engines it's clear that it needs a more substantial footplate (diamond plate), and some angle braces underneath the cab plate. Looks like some rivet punching later today. I do have an "O" scale die set, so we'll see what it looks like.



Nigel

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Hi All,

Lots of fettling, adding brass supports, and soldering this morning. The chimney and base were tinned and soldered on at this stage, once the smokebox is soldered to the boiler/saddle tank it won't be accessible. The firebox and backhead was also soldered up, and tacked to the boiler/saddle tank. Finally a dry fit:

One of the brass support bars can be seen above the left front wheel. Cab sides need a bit more fettling at the top, and the nearest one has a gouge that will need repair. The back sheet is held for the moment with a dab of CA, that will get soldered up after I've taken it off and drilled out the holes for the hand grabs.




T'other side showing the home casting of the valve cover. Those nubs on the saddle tank need to come off.




Backhead view. Lots of detail to be added after I've finished soldering the body components together. Two more nubs this side on the saddle tank. I may get rid of the dome, as the steam regulator sits on top of the smokebox. The idea is that when the fit is good the cab sides get soldered to the firebox, which then provides 3 bolts to hold the smokebox, boiler/saddle tank, firebox/backhead and cab sides to the chassis. There looks to be another hole in front of the backhead, that will need a brass bracket soldering to the bottom of the backhead. All this will make life easy when it comes to the paint job as the body and cab sides can be removed as one unit. That springy thing at the bottom right is a steel clothes peg with the ends flattened. Used as a holder and heat sink combined when soldering. The motor and gear box sit vertically in the firebox. One of those itsy-bitsy M1.4 screws holding the motor to the gearbox is not in the box. Nor are the smokebox darts. Might have something in the spares box. So much for a supposedly complete "part-built" kit.



Having looked at the dry fit, I think I'll run this one as an open cab version towing a flat car with extra coal. Pity to hide the backhead detailing and "Christmas tree" valve gear. There is enough room for a driver and mate crouched over the firebox. Slate quarry or cable works, haven't made my mind up yet.

Final fettling and soldering of the body tomorrow. Then I'm on to the running gear.

Nigel



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This is looking great Nigel.  A successful build keeps the creative juices flowing.  Agree that the backhead shouldn't be hidden. 

I just agreed to buy a second hand part built Slaters MR 1F, whatever was I thinking! :shock:

John

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Hi John,

Thanks. Bit more fettling than I expected, but it should look like a battered Bagnell in the 1950's when it's done.

I'd forgotten how nice it is to work in 7mm scale. I have no track whatsoever apart from regular 16.5mm HO/OO,  so I should start on an industrial line after the loco build.

Looks like I'll be looking out for some 7mm narrow gauge kits to bash around. I fancy a diesel/petrol one next.

Nigel

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Hi All,

Finished nearly all of the the body detailing this morning, primarily the backhead and "Christmas Tree" valve gear. Had to fabricate a new balance pipe from 40 thou' P/B. The one in the box was too short. Pipework is a combination of 186° solder and P/B wire. Fiddly soldering, than goodness for the new iron and fine tip.

The box in front of the Christmas Tree is the rear wheel sand box.


Backhead view. Boiler water gauge and regulator, I will need to draw up a pressure dial and water gauge and print them out. Roche has some nice ones in O scale.


Backhead and Christmas Tree close-up. 





Motion and valve gear up next, then a prime and  paint of the dismantled parts. There is room in the boiler for a small decoder, so I also need to get that motor mount sorted. Most of these locomotives ran with big blocks of wood as buffers and a simple hook between. Kadee couplers? Got to think about how they're going to be attached. If I go for a cable manufacturer then I'll need long couplng rods and hooks because of the diameter of the cable wheels on the small trucks.

Now where is that coal? I know I have a small bag of the stuff somewhere. Plus a match truck for the extra. And some footplates. One thing missing from the "box o' bits" is some brake gear. May have to scratch build that or cannibalize it from an OO locomotive part.

Nigel

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Stunning Nigel, excellent work.  This is coming along really well, quickly too.

I was just reading MRJ 251 and thought of you.  There are some photos of a Talyllyn point and an article on GWR narrow gauge track.

John

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That's looking really lovely, Nigel.  :thumbs

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Hi John, Max,

Thanks for the comments. Good job I was going for the battered and used look rather than a show piece.

I was going to go for some stub points for a change, rather than blades.

Nigel

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Hi All,

Some more progress today.

First off, I was soldering the slide rails in after soldering up the bridge piece with the 2 sets of valve gear (dummy casting) at the ends, when CLUNK, the front buffer and footplate assembly dropped off. An "Oh, well I never!" moment. I covered why you shouldn't use epoxy for this sort of thing in a separate posting, you really have to take care to make sure the metal is bright, clean and grease-free (no fingers after cleaning, otherwise it will have 'uman oil" on it.

I cleaned everything up (I had to use the Dremel with a grinding bit to get rid of the epoxy) and took the opportunity to solder the front coupler mounting on the front buffer plate. Then the whole shebang was soldered to the frame and cylinder saddle. Cab steps were also cleaned and soldered up (previously epoxy). I found an O-scale bucket and oil can in the spares (actually found a bag of Wrightlines bits for 7mm narrow gauge, probably another locomotive in there) to sit up front.

Motion tomorrow. Could be fun, these are old Romfords and require the rods to be kept in place with a bit of solder. No spacers in the box. I should have some screw ones somewhere with spacers (in fact I think I have some more modern wheels for this model).

Nigel

That "Oh well I never!" moment.




And then an "I can do it..." moment. Smokebox dart is off while I fettle some handles from P/B rod. Yes, held in place with epoxy.




Slide bar (only 1) per cross-head and "valve gear?" in place. Need to add some sand pipes. Every time I pick this model up I give it another ding or dent. That dome looks a bit too pristine for 50 years work.



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Hi All,

A bit more progress on the running gear.

No bushings or lock-nuts in the box, luckily I found a spare set of Wrightlines wheels with short and long bushings. I fabricated the valve arms from brass bar, soldered in place in the valve gear casting above the slide bars (also fabricated from brass rod), floating fit in the cylinders. Dry fit showed the previous effort had not opened up the holes in the rods, touch of the Dremel and a side milling bit solved that.




P/B cross rod for the valve gear soldered up. The motor/gear is a 50:1 reduction, so slow running shouldn't be a problem. The sharp-eyed will note that the cab sides are now soldered to the footplate. The nut that holds the footplate to the chassis bolt (far left) was held in place with (yes!) epoxy. The epoxy failed, so I had to strip the casting that holds the nut down, and then solder it up. Hopefully there is no more epoxy ready to fail.




I will need to add a rod from the reversing lever in the cab to the cross rod.


 
Next up will be the reversing lever rod, the reversing lever and hand brake, the cab hand grabs, and the diamond footplates over the wheels (hand scribed as I only have OO etches). Hopefully tomorrow will be warm enough for a coat of primer to the various sub-assemblies after a good wash and scrub with cream cleanser. I found a pair of nameplates in the "O" spares box, "Joan" she is. There is not much space underneath, I'll have to think about whether to use P/B wipers or plungers for the electrics.

Nigel
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Hi All,

More progress today. Finished up adding the various bits - grab rails, brake lever, reversing lever including a scratch reversing lever link to the valve gear. The supplied one was in white metal, impossible to solder even at 200°, so I used some brass bar and solder rather than CA. Good wash and scrub with kitchen cream cleaner, rinse and dry and then 3 thin coats of primer (the weather was good, 10° above recommended minimum temperature for the rattle can). I used Krylon dark grey primer, works well with metal and plastic, and has a bit of an etch bite.

After a good scrub with kitchen cream cleaner (mildly abrasive, this one is based on calcium carbonate and contains an anionic detergent) and a toothbrush (new, I buy these in packs of 5, works out about $1.00 each).




And after 3 coats of primer.



I have a few more details to add - the valves on the valve covers, 4 sand pipes, and maybe some brakes - but I'll do those after the final paint and assembly. Nearly forgot the small footplates, they will go on after the frame and chassis are joined together.

Nigel

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Still watching.  :thumbs

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Hi All,

Test fit with the motor and new top-hat bearings. The old ones dropped out, should have checked this, poor as in no solder by the previous modeler. Looked to be held in place with black paint. Novel is all I can say. Bit of fettling with the motor worm and gear. Couple of thrust bearings and adjusting the position of the gear solved the "OK one direction, nothing the other" syndrome. Wonder if I use some bearing compound and give it an hour or so running in (worm/gear and axle bearings)?

I've decided on wiper pick-up and DC for the moment. There's enough room in the boiler for a fair-sized decoder. I'll just wire it up "DCC Friendly".

After all this work I'm not sure that I like the little beastie (or will progress with an O-16.5 cameo and even more kits). An interesting build.* Methinks eebygum or the upcoming "White Elephant" stand at my local NMRA Group's all day mini-conference is where Joan is going. After a paint job and some suitable weathering appropriate for a battered 50+ year-old locomotive ready to be replaced by a small diesel. Must put a few dings in the dome before final painting. Plus some sand pipes. Found some coal as well.

It's been a good opportunity to refresh white metal soldering techniques. I have a small collection of Wrightlines parts O-16.5 that I'll be selling, see the separate listing coming shortly in sales and wants. Useful for those who model O-16.5 or On30. I'll be coming to the UK in March/April, and will  mail from there rather than from here. They'll also be going on eebygum.









Nigel

*See that white metal Wrightlines Bagnall kit lyin' over there?
The one with the missing parts and no instructions anywhere?
Somebody gotta do it,
(Somebody gotta do it),
 Somebody gotta do it,
(Somebody gotta do it),
And that somebody aint me!

Apologies to Sam Lay and his band (Somebody Gotta Do It)..
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...and you did it Nigel.  You brought this long forgotten and forlorn model to life and a cracking job at that.  Even if you flog this I hope you continue along this vein.

John

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Hi John

And a challenge it is. The end however is near. More a pig's purse than a silk purse. Not often I leave things not quite right (that cab side/footplate gap for example), but rather than try and fettle to pristine condition when the design is working against you it's sometimes advisable to build a decrepit end-of-life locomotive to match the weathering. Quarry locomotives (especially those working in slate galleries) were often hit by falling rocks and suffered from frequent derailments, rare was the locomotive with perfect bodywork or frames.

One thing anyone buying old kits (part-built or complete), especially white metal ones, should keep in mind is that the previous owner(s) may have done things that are highly questionable (in this case liberal use of epoxy, poor soldering, and CA in the wrong places) and that with part-completed kits there may be small details missing(in this case valve cover, smoke box darts), broken or damaged (in this case the firebox cover), or from another kit. Plus the kit may not be up to current standards regarding design, ease of build, fit of parts or motor/running gear. It's all about diminishing returns and knowing when to stop. I've almost reached that point. A running, weathered and battered locomotive is the goal.

The weather is nice this afternoon, coat of paint I think while the sun is shining and it's short-sleeve warm.

Nigel


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Hi All,

End of the line on the pigs purses from silk ears rebuild. There is a fundamental issue with the design of the beastie, the cross-heads/rods fouls the bottom of the motion bracket. Bit of digging in my paperwork reveals the following statement: "The cross head and motion rods may foul the motion brackets, some metal should be removed from the bottom". And it certainly does, even after I had upped the height and put it back as far as I could, it would still need around 3-4mm of metal removed from the bottom to ensure adequate clearance (and some thinning of the rods. Which would pretty much destroy the valve gear representation). It stays as is, a static non-runner model for the moment. At least it didn't end up in the white-metal weights box. I was very pleased with the white metal casting of the RHS valve cover when it was painted-up, looks pretty much like the original LHS one. No weathering yet, can't find the powders. Probably in storage.









It was photographed on IKEA AVSKILD cork place mats, 42 x 32 cm, 3.3mm thick (16.5" x 12", 1/8" thick). Four for $4.00. Very useful for track underlay as it doesn't come in a roll (and doesn't need flattening and hence no cracks). One pack pretty much does a 4' x 15" module. Must get some more.

Metallic paints are Vallejo.

Enough of the vacation, back to doing some work on the HO shelf (and putting some decoders in the ALCO RS-1, GP-9 and SD-7).

Nigel
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Well this looks quite fine.  A shame about the clearance issues.  Are the wheels Finescale or Coarse?  Once weathered, it will be even better.

John

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Hi John,

Thanks. Wheels - Coarse. Romfords with solid brass journal pins. Which means desoldering to take it apart. It was a fun build, but from this point on it's diminishing returns as I'm not pursuing O-16.5 narrow gauge.

Nigel

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Ah well, there you are then.  Best to limit your effort if you don't plan to pursue.  Get on with higher priorities.  You can tick the box though.

John

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Nigel,  :thumbs :pathead

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Hi Ron,

Thanks. One for the display shelf. "Bagnall Folly".

I looked hard at the design, getting those rods and cross-head not to hit the bottom of the valve gear representation would mean taking so much metal off that it would compromise the integrity of the slide bar solder joint and the rod/cross-head. I think this kit was originally designed for 14mm gauge (2-feet prototype), that would explain a lot. The design was changed considerably when the kit went to etched brass construction.

As John says it's another box ticked and it was saved from the white metal melting pot. I learned something as well - making your own silicone molds for those odd pieces in white metal (or resin/epoxy) turns out to be really easy. 

Nigel

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A shame you couldn't get it running, but nice work all the same

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Hi Brendan,

I might attack the beastie next week and see if some metal removal from the valve gear bottom and the rods along with some additional spacers would get it lurching down the track Bagnall-fashion.Could increase the selling price by at least 500% (well, maybe 50%).

Sold some old Langley kit N-locos Saturday, plus all the white metal detailing, seems to be a market around here. There is a big train show next month in Baltimore (more trade than layouts), the Bagnall could be making an appearance on the White Elephant stall.

Fun building it, I had forgotten how easy building in O compared to HO/OO is. As I said, an opportunity to hone the white metal soldering techniques.

Nigel


                 

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