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Rob Pulham
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Alongside the scratch building that I do I also build wagons from kits and this workbench is where I will share my wagon kit building adventures.
Some of my very first 7mm scale wagon builds were from Slaters kits

First an ex Midland Railway fruit van.

This was done before I dared to try my hand at weathering so the weathering was done by Chris (my good lady)



Next is another ex Midland vehicle, a 6 wheeled Slatted Milk Van.

The lining was done with acrylic paint via a bow pen over Halford's Rover Damask red. - I quickly discovered that Acrylics dry far too quickly for use in a bow pen without the use of a retarder, but I got away with it for this vehicle.






Rob Pulham
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This post is a little out of sequence in so much as it's what I have been working on recently rather than catching up with previous builds as I have been doing to date. 

Seven days away from TV and internet have allowed me to crack on with quite a few of my ongoing projects.

First up I finished the remaining three Parkside Vans ready for painting - actually I tell a lie because the LNER fish van still needs guard irons and vac/steam pipes.



Then I built a Slaters Gloucester 5 Plank Open. Unlike my previous builds of open wagons I haven't gone to town on the interior detailing on this one - I went as far as scribing in the plank lines because I plan to load it in such a way as the interior won't be seen.



Then I built a Parkside NBR 4 plank open and while looking in Tatlow for the additional details that I had added to the last one of these that I built, I noted that some of these wagons had been converted for use as Coke wagons. Variety is the spice of life as they say, so of I went with the styrene rod and sheet - it was actually great practice at cutting straight strips from 1.25mm sheet.







Despite being a simple kit bash it allowed me to indulge in adding bolt head details and by dint of good fortune I just had enough styrene washers to hand to complete it.

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Cracking job on the coke wagon.  I'm amazed at your precision with the rod.

Here's what might be a silly question.  Slaters do vac. pipes with a spring to represent hose.  However, the spring sticks out like a donkeys you know what.  I can loosely connect the hose connections but I'm wondering if there's a way to make the "hose" droop. 

I got some tiny rare earth magnets that I plan to experiment with connecting hoses.

John

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Nice, Rob.  :thumbs

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Brossard wrote: Cracking job on the coke wagon.  I'm amazed at your precision with the rod.

Here's what might be a silly question.  Slaters do vac. pipes with a spring to represent hose.  However, the spring sticks out like a donkeys you know what.  I can loosely connect the hose connections but I'm wondering if there's a way to make the "hose" droop. 

I got some tiny rare earth magnets that I plan to experiment with connecting hoses.

John

Hi John,

I would suggest bending some brass rod to the shape of the droop and insert it inside the spring before adding your magnet. That will hold the spring in the drooped position - If you look at the Steam heat hose on the LMS Milk truck higher up the page that's done in the same manner but without the magnet.

Thinking abut it if you make a little jig with some pins to bend around to get repeatability you could make them all join together in a very prototypical fashion.

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Thanks Rob, it was the milk van that sparked the question.  Inserting wire was actually my first thought being accustomed to having pipes not connected in 4mm.  My second one was that if I did that I wouldn't be able to join hoses between wagons.  OK so no magic bullet.  The pipes can be connected to the dummy hose coupling when not in use.  My leetle grey cells will continue to race about on this question.

John

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My next foray into wagon building was a brass kit for an ex Somerset and Dorset Railway HorseBox an ebay find.
Although the kit is now with Dragon Models, my kit was labeled Model Signal Engineering and the quality of the etching is a bit agricultural by todays finer standards very much showing that it was hand drawn.








[img]http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x437/Robpulham/7mm%20scale%20rolling%20stock/Somerset%20and%20Dorset%20%20Horse%20Box/Abitofthisandthat022.jpg[img]


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It looks like it still makes an awesome model despite being a bit dated.  Must get an etched kit at some point.

John

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Brossard wrote: It looks like it still makes an awesome model despite being a bit dated.  Must get an etched kit at some point.

John

Hi John,

If  you do I can thoroughly recommend both the Dragon Celtic connections range or Connoisseur Models (Jim McGeown) with the latter being especially recommended if you are new to etched kits.

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I've been looking at Connaisseur Rob, they're supposed to be up there with the best.  I've got some kits and other work to finish, I think, before adding to my workbench.

I'm not new to etched kits, I've built a fair few in 4mm.

John

Last edited on Sun Jan 1st, 2017 02:49 am by Brossard

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Hi John,
In that case you will have no issue with any of them. A few of the Dragon range are former Majestic Models kits and you can sometimes pick them up reasonably priced on eBay. Although I never met him, I exchanged a few emails with George Dawson the originator/designer of the range who was good friends with jim McGeown before his sad passing a couple of years ago. The whitemetal castings in the Majestic kit's are some of the best I have seen in any kit - nicelyt formed and virtually no flash.

Here's wishing you all the best for 2017

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Moving on with the S&D Horsebox (although in my neck of the woods S&D stands for Stockton and Darlington not Somerset and Dorset :cool:).








Chris decided that the grooms seat needed upholstering and she had some small leather offcuts so she tooled a cover.


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A whole 'nother year to do more modelling.  :cheers  7mm has been a revelation and I'm loving it.  The only question is why I didn't do it sooner - Dapol is probably the answer.

Indeed all the best for 2017.

I like the seat covering.  Here's something that might come in handy.

 http://www.mousa.biz/downloads/coach_seats.html

John


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Thanks for the link John,  I had forgotten that they existed. Jim McGeown provides something similar with his coach kits

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I checked Jim's site, the interiors look good.  Shame his coaches are pre-grouping.  Might be worth getting some interiors to try.  The problem is that coach seats tended to be patterned which is not easy to do.

John

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Some lovely stuff there, Rob. Great modelling.

:thumbs

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Next a few shots of the completed Horsebox.





And with a coat of Halfords Rover Damask Red.







And finally it's ready for a bit of weathering.




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Oh, yes!  Beautiful, Rob.  :cool:

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And finally some shots of it weathered and ready for service.








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Geez Rob, you work fast, it takes me days if not weeks to complete a project. :roll:  Great job though.

John

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Cracking good work on the Horsebox

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Thanks John,
Alas,  I can't take any credit for doing a speedy job in this instance because its very much a "here's one I did earlier" example.

This however is one that I started on Christmas day.

First a bit of preamble. Back in 2011 for Christmas Chris bought me a few of Jim McGeown's van kits. At the time I built an LNER Refrigerator van but didn't get to the others, which were an NER Birdcage Brake, a Perishables van, and a 6 wheeled brake coach.

Around the same time we were sat having lunch in a little cafe in the village of Rosedale Abbey on the North Yorkshire Moors when I saw a picture of one of the NER Birdcage brake van's at Rosedale but this one had "Side Cotes" (duckets to me and much of the world I suspect) as well as the birdcage on top. I decided that I would like to build one so a couple of years later at a show I bought a second kit and asked Jim if he by any chance had any duff etches that contained the duckets from his NER V4 brake van and he said that he did and duly sent me them. 

Having been up north for Christmas we planned a week at home before I go back to work so I dug out both of the brake van kits and modified the sides on one to take the duckets. The ducket's were too tall  to fit directly so I had to modify those too. 

Here's where I got to the night before last.


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Lovely.  So good to be able to talk to the man directly for things like this.  I like to have different vehicles in my trains, not a whole raft of carbon copies.

Cheers

John

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Thanks John.

Connoisseur NER Birdcage Brake Vans continued.

A bit more done yesterday,  fitting of all most of the small exterior items before assembling the main body parts.

alas nothing done today...








These being one of Jim's older kits the etch marks for the rivets/bolt heads to be pressed out are a bit on the big side making punching them centrally more difficult. I hope to get around this by drilling them out and inserting brass pins instead - the first of them in the last photo - as you can see they are a bit uneven, thats because I had tried to punch these initially and then decided to drill. 

Just in case you are wondering what the solder is around the holes - it's tinning for soldering the white metal end posts later in the build.

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In between messing about getting my DCC working I have made further progress on the two NER Brake vans. I have been quite impressed that I have managed to add almost all the detail to sub assemblies before making up the main units and adding the solebars. The only things to add to the upper bodies are some corner plates that fold around the corners, some handrails that also go around the ends, the cast end posts and the lower footboards which I need the W Irons in place before I can cut the supports to final length.



The roof is still loose. Jim recommends leaving it loose to glaze and making it clip on afterwards I need to explore how I can do this yet.





Although I have the birdcage for the second one assembled it's not soldered to the roof yet.



Paul Gallon over on RMweb kindly reminded me that the example that I am trying to reproduce with this one also had windows in the birdcage end. 
In the photo above you can seem my error. I cut out the windows using those at the other end as a template but didn't think about the fact the the side duckets have sides which protrude into the van internally and that the sides nearest the end windows partially obscure it. - Why is it that you never notice these things until you have made nice job of soldering the body together, made much more difficult by the fact that on this end I couldn't get to the inside so I had to solder it from the outside and clean up.



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As I mentioned on John's workbench thread last week, last weekends task was to add transfers to the various Parkside builds that I have been working on recently.

Starting with the LMS Beer Van.






















And finally an arty shot that was created by accident as I was preparing the photos


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The last couple of evenings have seen further work on the Birdcage brakes.
Monday saw some of the hand rails and the end posts fitted. - Chris bought me a Proxxon Mini Pillar drill and a Proxxon Bench Vice for Christmas and they have been invaluable in doing these especially drilling out the cast end posts for the handrails.









Then last night saw the remaining body side handrails fitted along with the upper ones on one end. The drawing and photo from the Sadler book that I am working from has a different layout of the hand rails on the end than Jim shows in his instructions with the end rails passing through the end posts rather than attaching to the outer face of them.

The interested may wonder why I am just working on this one at the moment. That because I think that the only way to be happy with the one with duckets is going to be to remove the end with the birdcage and then cut out the intrusive sides of the ducket and I am still building up the courage to have a go at it....

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Very interesting to see this Rob.  I am curious about the end posts - they seem out of all proportion for a structural element.  Is there another purpose for them?

You will need to don your loin girds to do the ducket removal.  :mrgreen:

John

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Watching.  :cool:

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Brossard wrote: Very interesting to see this Rob.  I am curious about the end posts - they seem out of all proportion for a structural element.  Is there another purpose for them?

You will need to don your loin girds to do the ducket removal.  :mrgreen:

John
 Hi John,
It seems that the design of end post was quite standard for NER Stock, the large wooden hopper wagons had similar end posts. I seem to recall reading that they passed below the buffer beam to allow shunting using something with dumb buffers.

When the LNER continued to build hopper wagons for the NE area they cut the end post off level with the buffer beam like most other stock.

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Last night, the Loin Girds were well and truly donned and I got on with removing the end from the other van. 

Like a lot of things that you worry yourself about it was really quiet an easy job in the end. 

Using a few aluminium hair grips and self locking tweezers as heat sinks for the steps and lamp irons I managed to get the end off, remove the offending bits of metal (with a combination of piercing saw/ rotary sanding drum and a cylindrical burr grinder in the dremel finished off with files) and subsequently soldered back on without anything coming adrift, Yeay!!!



And for completeness these are the photos of progress on the other van that I forgot to post last night....






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Ha, the right appliance, attitude and tools will see you right.

Looking at the windows you cut in the end, I'm wondering if you're up for adding some beading.  :shock:

John

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Brossard wrote: Ha, the right appliance, attitude and tools will see you right.

Looking at the windows you cut in the end, I'm wondering if you're up for adding some beading.  :shock:

John
You must be a mind reader,  that something that crossed my mind. I will consult my photo and drawing again because I am not sure that the windows in the end actually had any.

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To my mind it would be odd if there wasn't some sort of window frame.  Standing by.

John

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Hi John,
I have consulted the photo and surprisingly there doesn't appear to be a frame. Most odd.

Not much modelling done over the weekend due to a combination of not feeling well on Saturday and a trip to Pontefract show on Sunday. Which was very enjoyable even if I did come back with etches for 4 Pullman coaches which Chris spotted and encouraged me to buy that I hadn't planned on...

A few hours last night had the first van almost complete (I had thought it complete until I remembered that I hadn't fitted a couple of hand rails or any guard irons under the brake yokes.





The hand rails that are missing are the two small ones above the wrap around rails in this view - the other end should have similar fitted about a quarter of the way up the windows.





I didn't fancy trying to drill out the rather nice cast chimney because it's very slender so I scratched a pair of replacements from telescoping tube and a cover plate from the spares box, completed them.

I also noted on the drawing that the sliding doors had a hasp so I made a couple from scrap etch.


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Looking good Rob.  Photos don't lie.  Is the roof yet to be fixed?   I think handrails do make a model like this.  I also like your scratchbuilding of components.

John

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Hi John,
The roof is the last bit of the puzzle to work out - how to attach it. I may just glue it in place when it's all painted and glazed. 

On Monday evening I managed to get the missing handrails fitted and the guard irons. I just need to fit the buffers and decide on  how I plan to do the roof and it's ready to paint. - In a senior moment or two I have left some NER sprung buffers at the other house two weekends running which I want to try before fitting Jim's fixed ones if they won't work.

I do love adding extra details where I can and on some builds I almost use as much scrap etch as I do proper parts.

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I think glue is a perfectly acceptable way to attach certain parts to brass kits.  If you need to remove the roof, glue can be defeated easier than solder.

John

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The body looks tiny compared to the wheels spacing....you must have more Patience than Jobe !

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Some minor surgery combined with Sinusitis has laid me up for the best part of two weeks so the work bench has been quiet. Filling a little more in the way of head space I opted to finish a long time inhabitant of the queens shelf, a Powsides GER 5 plank Open. Before placing it aside I had built it all apart from adding the castings and I am not really sure why I hadn't completed it.

It proved a fairly straightforward build apart from the fact that the brake shoes were miles from the wheels so I had to split them and move them out towards the wheels. Then make a brass strip to represent the tumbler which I soldered to the rear of the castings after filing a slot. The only other changes were (after reviewing photos in Tatlow) to add some ex Connoisseur GER ratchet brake lever guides instead of the supplied hole/pin version.



[img]http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x437/Robpulham/7mm%20scale%20rolling%20stock/IMG_2826_zpsliacgddc.jpg[img]





Next its back to the NER Brake vans.

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Brass does have a look about it, wonderful.  I like the wooden floor.  Strange how the brakes were so far away from the wheels, perhaps originally for coarse 0?

I've been trying to represent wood floors in a couple of Dapol wagons along with general weathering.  I'll post something soon.

John

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Brossard wrote: Brass does have a look about it, wonderful.  I like the wooden floor.  Strange how the brakes were so far away from the wheels, 

Hi John,

I hadn't thought of that. maybe. It's a shame because it detracted from what was otherwise a good kit. It does surprise me that the designer went with cast brake gear though when the rest of the etched parts are so good. Etched brake gear would have been so much better.

Since taking the photos I have noted that I haven't added the pins and chains for the drop doors something that I will have to remedy before painting.

Last edited on Fri Feb 10th, 2017 11:37 pm by Rob Pulham

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You might consider Bill Bedfords stuff from Eileens.  I used his RCH brake gear for Dapol PO wagon.  Pull rods are not solid but two parallel bars.

John

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Thanks for that John, I have used Bill's MR levers and guides previously (via Eileens) but hadn't noted the RCH sets.
Having had a look at what's on offer, you might also be interested in these from Modern Motive Power which are at a similar price but carry much more detail.

https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=18284&cat=309&page=1

I have a few of David's LMS Wagon kit's in my stash they are very detailed.

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A decent session at the bench yesterday saw the 2nd NER Birdcage brake well on it's way.

At the suggestion of John I looked at the photo to determine whether there were frames in the windows that I cut in the end. 

There isn't a frame as such on the photo but I decided to try to replicate the etched frame that's etched in the other end.



[size=]


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Hi Rob, I've been looking at the MMP site and thinking about getting a couple of steel minerals.  I note that there are etched interior overlays suitable for Slaters kits.

I think the strategy has to be to complete the wagons I have on hand then move to the coaches.

John

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Looks like the hard work is done and it looks great.  The window frames do improve the look I think.

John

Rob Pulham
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[color="#008833" style="font-weight: bold;"]Brossard wrote:I note that there are etched interior overlays suitable for Slaters kits.

Hi John,

There are, I have one amongst my shelf queens if you would like to see what they look like - it's up north so it will be another week or so before I can bring it back for a photo though.

I have the RCH underframe pack for the same wagon, I must get back to it.

You mention getting a couple of the steel minerals? You may want to opt to buy three because David does a deal on packs of three. Just make sure that you click on the right one when ordering. I once made the mistake of ordering an LMS steel mineral when I wanted a wooden one. The plan is to build it and sell it at some point because it's a bit late for the period that I model.










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Thanks for the tip Rob.  I've noticed the things you are selling and am tempted.  The only thing is that postage for us mortals might be pretty steep.  I sold some part built loco kits to a chap in UK and the postage was eye watering.

John

Rob Pulham
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Isn't it always the way? You look at the photos and realise that you have missed something. In this case it was the pins and chains for the side doors.



I got the second NER Birdcage brake to a similar state as the first one - just needing buffers and working out how best to fit the roof post painting.



And then something that came together almost as a surprise.  As I was doing the two V1 vans I started to clean up and make the various folds in a V4 van and before I knew it, quite a bit was to was ready to solder up.



The doors are sliding doors and the way that Jim has portrayed them made leaving one of them partially open almost irresistible. It means that I will need to model an interior but that doesn't faze me.





Again it's a Connoisseur kit and to that I have added square brass rod to beef up the vertical and horizontal framing and some internal planking to the veranda ends.



It all needs a good clean up before I go much further with it.

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I frequently find boo boos after I've taken the picture.  Took your advice and ordered three steel minerals (1 ex LMS, 1 108/1 and 109/1) from Parkin.

The two birdcages have turned out well.

The new van is  a Toad B isn't it?  I've got some drawings if you need them.

John

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Brossard wrote: I frequently find boo boos after I've taken the picture.  Took your advice and ordered three steel minerals (1 ex LMS, 1 108/1 and 109/1) from Parkin.

The two birdcages have turned out well.

The new van is  a Toad B isn't it?  I've got some drawings if you need them.

John

Excellent,  you won't regret buying the MMP kits. 
This is an MMP LMS Glass wagon that I built, since the photos were taken I have added transfers but haven't painted the bits that should be black. I have 3 wooden minerals, a steel mineral and an LMS roadstone wagon still to build. If I modelled BR I would be tempted by his mark one coaches too but they are too late for me.





Yes, the new van is a Toad B I have a Toad E to do too which might be next but my son bought me a Bill Bedford GCR 6 wheeled brake for Christmas which keeps beckoning to me too.

Yes please to the drawings.

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Ha ha, yes I did pause at the Mk 1 GUV but decided first things first and got the wagons.  That glass wagon looks very crisp.

I'll email the drawings.

John

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Due to recovering from minor surgery, I haven't felt like venturing into the workshop since early February and apart from a bit done on the Kirk coaches a couple of weekends ago I haven't done any modelling at all.

Last night I ventured forth and got stuck in with the NER V4 brake van again. I added the remaining corner patches, the guard irons across the door ways and added the foot boards.  I had done the roof at the last session that I did but forgot to take any photos of it.

I think that apart from the brakes and remaining handrails that fit into the end posts all the brass work on the outside is complete so whitemetal fittings next.












As on the other NER brake vans I made a replacement for the cast chimney from tube.



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These are all shaping up quite nicely

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Hi Rob, sorry to hear you were hors de combat. 

I do like this van, the predecessor to the Toad E.  I read something yesterday that said that the Toad E was this van with the wooden duckets replaced by steel.

I marvel at people who can fully assemble a model before painting.  Painting, for example, the area between the inner and outer ends must be tricky.

John

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Thanks John,
I hadn't realised that such a minor op would knock the stuffing out of me. The biggest problem was that it was to my toe and it will take up to 8 weeks to heal. The first 4 weeks I had quite substantial dressings on it which made it really uncomfortable and required lots of painkillers. Now I have what is essentially a big plaster which is much more comfortable and not taking as many pain killers has helped me regain the modelling mojo.

I hear you on painting the model in one piece. You don't really have much choice with soldered construction although I will leave the roof separate so that I can get into the veranda ends a bit easier - not that they will be easy of course.

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I suppose you could cheat and glue things on later, that doesn't sound like you though.

John

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Brossard wrote:  that doesn't sound like you though.

John
You have me sussed John,  I like to solder where I can. I don't mind gluing plastic but I view solder as the only glue for metal.

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Talking of gluing plastic, I must really be in touch with my feminine side when it comes to building wagons because I have been multitasking. In between sorting out bits for and building the KIRK BG I have also managed to put together one of two kits that I recently bought to build for sale.

This one being a Parkside Kit for a GWR Tevan. Not being a GWR/WR modeller I have relied somewhat on the historical info in the kit and one photo that I found on the net of a preserved example. 

Apparently these were converted in the late 1930's from Mica Insulated vans by removing the interior hoppers for Drikold refrigerant and the roof hatches from which they were accessed. The were then used for the conveyance of tea and coffee from the Lyons Depot at Greenford. 

Having said that, apparently there is photographic evidence that at least one of them retained its roof hatches and, me being me, I chose to model the unusual one. - Helped along by the provision [size=of the hatches ][size=in the kit. Another plus is that they lasted in to the mid 1960's]

At the minute the plan is to finish in BR WR livery as being the most attractive to prospective buyers.





Although you can't see it unless, (and to quote Jim Snowden saying recently) "it falls off" I chose to add the vacuum pipe run under the floor and the smaller pipe to the vac cylinder.





Apart from adding a pair of rather nice fold up etched steps it's ready for the paint shop.

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Nice job on that build, can't wait to see it painted

Rob Pulham
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Thanks Zelda,  me too.

Last night saw more small steps - quite literally in that I made up the rather nifty etched steps for the Tevan





Then I did a bit more on the V4 brake van getting the floor cut and fitted ready for soldering in once I have fitted the brake gear etc. - I made the floor from a scrap etched part and I have yet to decide whether to fill the holes with rod or leave them. - There are only 5 and they are less than a mm in diameter and will they be seen with the roof on, I doubt it.





I also made a couple of inserts for above the veranda which once soldered in place will increase the gluing area for sticking the roof on once painted.




Rob Pulham
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I managed a little more on the internals for the V4 brake van last night.

Being, by inclination and birth, a tight fisted Yorkshire man. I don't throw much away, and sometime ago I bought a thousand 10ba brass CS screws. The problem was that when I bought them they only had them in 1 1/2" lengths. This means that most of them that I have used so far, have needed cutting down. This has resulted in me having a few 1" lengths of 10ba studding.

Fast forward to my cleaning up one of Slaters' very nice cast Brake Standards for the V4 and I clumsily broke off the the spigot for attaching it to the floor. At first I was just going to solder it to the brass floor and be done with it but then I thought that having the floor removable for as long as possible would help with painting the inside. 

So I drilled out the base where the spigot had been and soldered in a length of the aforementioned stud. A little of the solder wicked up the thread but a quick run down the thread with a 10ba die soon sorted that.

I then thought that with a bit of filing I could use a 10ba nut with some scrap etch to represent the lever for the brake cross shaft and although turning the handle doesn't actuate the brakes it still looks the part.

It wasn't a great leap to think that I may as well do the same with the stove to make it removable too.




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An elegant solution, Rob.

Proper modelling!  :thumbs

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Wow, now that Rob, is truly a thing of beauty. Thank you.

Bill :)

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Very clever Rob, wish I'd thought of that.

John

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In between doing bits and pieces on the Kirk coaches I have been making slow progress on the V4 brake van.

I have been fortunate to have been given a couple of GA's which show a hearth and heat shielding around the area where the stove sits.

A raid of the scrap etch box yielded this - the hole in the bottom it where the stove will bolt down.



And me, being me couldn't resist making the coat hook to go with a lamp iron that hung to either side of the chimney.





Now I mentioned that I have two GA's and this is where life gets a little odd. One of them shows 3'7" wheels which is what Jim recommends in the kit and the other shows 3'1" wheels. Even more odd is the fact that when trying to fit the 3'7" wheels they rub on the underside of the solebars. Plan B is to try some 3'1" wheels and check out the ride height.

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Blast, raising the bar, and for stuff no one will see.  :roll:  I thought I was silly with my interiors..

Funny about the wheels, I would have thought they'd be 3' 7".

John

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A coat hook?  Marvellous!  :thumbs

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Now, Rob, you'll have to make a hat and coat to go with it.

John

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Brossard wrote: Blast, raising the bar, and for stuff no one will see.  :roll:  I thought I was silly with my interiors..

Funny about the wheels, I would have thought they'd be 3' 7".

John

Hi John,

I think that I have got to the bottom of why the 3'7" wheels don't fit. Jim certainly did discover the error but what I had forgotten was that I wasn't using a production etch. Sometime ago when I planned the second Birdcage Van with side cotes I asked Jim if he had any scrap etches that contained the wooden duckets from the V4 kit. He duly let me have some and while making up the two V1/3 vans I idly cleaned and folded up the remainder of the etches that Jim has sent to which I added the missing bit's from my V4 kit not really thinking too much about why the etches had been scrap in the first place because there was nothing obvious to see. Upon checking last night,  the production etches have cuts outs to clear the wheels.

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MaxSouthOz wrote: A coat hook?  Marvellous!  :thumbs

Thanks Max


Brossard wrote:Now, Rob, you'll have to make a hat and coat to go with it.

John


It's funny you should say that the very first 7mm scale build that I did was a CRT Kits LMS Period I BG and I scratch built an interior complete with coat hooks and coat...







I even scratch built the fire extinguisher.

Attachment: LMS BG 005.gif (Downloaded 0 times)

Last edited on Sat Apr 1st, 2017 12:50 am by Rob Pulham

Brossard
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There goes that gory bar again, blast.

Glad you sussed the wheel thing.  Cutting slots can't be too difficult.

John

Edit:  the censor bot used a synonym for the word I wanted to use and I even inserted stars.  :shock:

Last edited on Sat Apr 1st, 2017 01:40 am by Brossard

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The V4 brake van came on in leaps and bounds over the weekend at home.













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Having taken the photos above I realised that the screw for the brake column could really do with being a bit longer so I used the piece of studding left from shortening the screw to hold the seat/locker in.
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Those that are still awake will note the hasp and staple fitted since the earlier photos





The long seat on one side is soldered in place, the one at the other side is screwed in from below allowing the floor and all the fittings to be fixed in after painting.





The only things left to fit are the brakes but sadly I think that I will need to temporarily remove one or both W Irons at one end because the wheel is rubbing and if I don't do it now it will only short when I try to run it.

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Wow Rob, that looks great.  I love all the busy looking grab handles.  Good luck with your rubbing wheel.

I've started a Parkside SR 25T brake.  I wonder Rob, if you have any info about the interior?  I'm not sure whether to add a stove and brake wheel, but I want to at least do the furniture and get the colour close.  I suspect it will be red with cream at the top (there's a good picture of the inside of one of Bluebells vans but I don't think it's the pillbox based on the end windows).

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Brake_van_(interior)_(9131593638).jpg

John

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Hi John,
Sorry, I don't have any info at all on the Southern. Looking at the guy who posted your image's other images it does look to be a Southern Pill box. Or at least he has a couple of photos of a pillbox van

The problem is that you never know what they do with them in preservation - there is a BR brake van at Locomotion (Shildon) that has been modified for taking more passengers for brake van rides until it no longer resembles any sort of recognisable brake van

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No problem Rob.  I'll raise a thread here and at RMWeb. 

I agree, it can be hazardous to use preserved stock as a guide.

The brake to which I linked is a Queen Mary:  http://www.bluebell-railway.co.uk/bluebell/wagon/56290.html, again from the window location.

John

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The Tevan has passed the finish line - correction I still need to remove the paint from the wheel treads.

Here are some taster photos.










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That's looking proper crisp Rob.  :doublethumb

John

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Thanks John,
It's just about to hit the small ads.

Rob Pulham
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I wasn't sure where to post this on here or my scratch building thread but here goes, a short time ago I was approached by a gent called Gareth Price who asked if he could use some of my photos of my NBR wagons to accompany an article that he was writing for MRE mag. Having been asked I was more than happy for Gareth to use what he could.

For anyone who might be interested The article is in this months edition.

Model Railway Express Issue Five August 2017

Last edited on Fri Aug 11th, 2017 08:57 pm by Rob Pulham

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It's always a pleasure to see your work in print.  I've had several articles in the BRMNA Journal, published about 6 times a year for members, most of whom are trying to fly the flag for British Railways in North America.

John

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Thanks John,
I must admit I was quite pleased to be asked.

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For the last few years I have entered some of my models in the annual modelling competition at Guildex and this year I did the same.

Starting off with the items that didn't get placed.

Scratch built Dowlow Lime Wagon - this was built before I got the Silhouette cutter but I weathered it a couple of weeks ago.


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[size=Next I entered my trio of Yorkshire and Lincolnshire Tar Distillers wagons. The two red ones being from Slaters kits and the black one built from parts cut on the Silhouette cutter. Again finally weathered in the last couple of weeks]
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Brossard
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Lovely Rob.  It feels good to finish the weathering.  It's a job I have a tendency to put off - I need to be in the mood.

John

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I know what you mean John. Once in the mood though it's an enjoyable task.

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Now for those that collected the runner up trophies.

First is the Dragon Models Lancashire and Yorkshire 30 ton Bogie van


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Brossard
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Ooooh! That is a lovely van and your diorama looks great as well.  Well done that man.

John

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Thanks John, 
The irony is that I almost didn't take the bogie van, it was a late decisions compared to the other entries.

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Another vehicle has also passed across the workbench recently.

This example is a Corgi, Thornycroft truck in Wakefield Castrol livery (sadly it cost considerably more than my more recent vehicular purchases). When I bought it, it was the usual toy like, very shiny livery so I have given it several squirts of road dirt to quieten it down a bit.


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Now that looks delightful Rob.  You've made it so much more plausible.

John

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Thanks John,
Although in theory companies would have kept their vehicles clean they would have got dirty when out and about between washing especially when travelling in rural areas.

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A slight diversion in the form of a complete foreigner to me - a Parkside SR Brake Van.


It's ultimately destined for the small ads but it has made a change which has resparked my interest.


This is as far as I got in a couple of sessions over the weekend.







It's just posed for the photo at the minute










As you can see the brakes are not fixed yet.







I found an interior shot which showed a couple of small seats below the lookouts. There was also a separate box/locker with a lid which I may or may not model. I say that because when the lid is one there isn't much visible inside.... Although once the interior is painted a bit more may be seen.





I have planked over the tops of the verandas which I appreciate isn't visible when looking at it from above but it does enhance it as a model.







Some were made to slightly different diagram in that they had additional windows added adjacent to the doors in each end. many others had them fitted later in their lives. I found a couple of photos where they survived intact without so I decided to leave them as is.


It will be finished to represent a BR liveried example so I won't be fitting the sand boxes although having said that I am very tempted to model this one


https://flic.kr/p/96HAx8



Or this one as being something quite different. I am not sure what the time frame for it being fitted with the cylinders on the end platform though - I want to appeal to as wide an audience as possible.


S49000  SR  BRAKE VAN Copyright by Linda Chen, on Flickr

Last edited on Tue Nov 21st, 2017 01:18 am by Rob Pulham

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Well Rob, this is a surprise, a plastic kit!   :chicken I did one and documented the build in my Wagon Workbench thread. 

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14578&forum_id=150&page=6

Mine is BR era and unfitted.  Sandboxes were mostly removed after nationalization.  I also did an interior.  BR also added an additional window at each end.

As usual I felt the ABS plastic step hangers wouldn't work so I substituted brass wire.  I'm interested in knowing how you tackle the steps.

Don't forget safety loops around the clasp brakes.

John


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Thanks John,
I had a look through your build before starting this one. I was going to add the stove and brake standard (and I still might) but having tried the roof on not much is visible and I doubt that anyone will want to pay any more if I add them so I will effectively have to stand the cost of them if I do.

I do fancy building one of those that were vac fitted as in the two photos that I linked to just because they are so different but I haven't decided yet. I will see what this week turns up because I won't get back to it until next Saturday ( I have just painted the roof because I was using the airbrush on the J79 backhead.).

PS thanks for the drawing

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This thread is an absolute joy to read every day.  :thumbs

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I have just noted that the Guard irons are unusual in that they are flat bar bent edgewise rather than across the flat - if that makes sense?

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Rob, I don't know if the vacuum fitment was something SR did or BR retrofitted.  I do know that BR built 20T brakes were mostly through piped, very few were vac fitted.  You are right about them looking neat. 

I used flat brass bar for the safety loops.  I think Hornby got them right on their recent 00 model.

I also found that the ABS lamp brackets are quite hopeless and wound up fashioning some from brass strip.

I agree that adding interior details is a bit of a waste of time, but at least I know they're there.

John

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Brossard wrote:
I agree that adding interior details is a bit of a waste of time, but at least I know they're there.

John

Thanks John,

if I planned to keep it I would do the same - it's why I went to the trouble of adding the planked roof of the verandas I know it's there and it will be visible if someone picks it up but I doubt the interior details will.

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Not much done this weekend but a little progress was made on the brake van




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Good to see the progress.  We have different assembly methods since I like to install handrails and other details after paint. 

What's the story with the sub roofs?

How are the lamp brackets holding up?  My idea is to put loops on my lamps so they can be changed.  I'm uncertain that the plastic will have the strength for that.  I tend to either make them from brass strip or use Slaters cast brass brackets.

John

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Hi John,
One of my foibles is that I like to see planking under the veranda roof (yes I know that you have to turn it over to see them) so I have started adding them to brake van builds.

Regarding the lamp irons, if I was keeping it I would do like you and use either cast ones or make some. I do plan to make the more vulnerable upper lamp irons from scrap etch but those lower down should be okay or at least they will once I have removed either the centre one or the two outer ones...

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Ah yes, OK.  I scribed the planking on the underside of the Toad roof.  So, I'm with you there.

John

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Back at the beginning of last year (February) I built a Powsides ex GER 5 plank open. This was an E&T buy at Telford about 3 years ago. 

Warren primed and coated it in grey for me and I have finally got around to adding the transfers ready for some weathering. I must have done a bit of weathering/painting of the woodwork but I can't recall when...
















The last shot has it's load which is one of the Skytrex castings that I bought and painted two or three years ago.



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That looks really good Rob.  The Skytrex stuff seems to be quite good as well, although their wagons were a bit iffy from what I recall.

Wondering about the rusty buffers and couplings.

John

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Brossard wrote:
Wondering about the rusty buffers and couplings.

John

Hi John, 


That's just the start of the process.

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Ah right, I will just have to contain myself then.

John

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I managed to move an even longer term inhabitant of the workbench a bit closer to the finish line this weekend.

I first built the basic kit back in May 2015 but I have only just got around to finishing the transfers. At the time Adrian Marks advised me that at grouping these ended their days in departmental service and as such never received LNER livery, hence this one will be finished in a very scabby GER livery.













A superb kit with all the brake gear being lost wax castings rather than etches.













The only changes I made were to add the tie down rings from bent brass dressmaking pins (I annealed them to bend them).

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Alongside progressing the Kirk twinset (all three bogies are now to the same stage) I have also put together and painted/weathered an ex LMS Steel bodied Ventilated van. 

It still needs couplings and some further work before I will have achieved my aim but I am pleased with progress so far.





















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Another winner to be sure Rob.  Who makes the kit?

John

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Thanks John, It's a Parkside kit,  Diag D1828

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But...shock, horror, it's plastic :shock:  I thought you only did brass.

John :mrgreen:

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Brass when I am at home in Wakefield,  plastic when I am in Bishop Auckland - no soldering facilities there

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For those who notice such things,  I have managed to correct the brakes being the wrong way around in the photos in my last post. 

Plus while  working on the Kirk twin art set I have been slowly assembling a Parkside NBR Jubilee Mineral wagon. Not the best mouldings that I have seen from the Parkside stable but I think it will be fine once painted and weathered.



I made the loops that allow the end door to open on the original from 0.6mm styrene rod which I wound around a 0.5mm drill bit in a PIN vice,  I then poured boiling water over it and then quenched it in cold water which retained the coil. It was then an easy matter to trim and fit the loops. I used a couple of the off cuts to make the rings for the horse hooks. I would have normally used brass wire for these but I didn't have any to hand the correct size so I decide to see what I could do with styrene.





The more observant will note that the brake levers are in different positions in the photos. This is done because I find it a real pain masking them off while painting so I decided to make them move.

To achieve this I drilled the back of the lever and glued in a short section of 1.5mm styrene rod. I drilled through the mounting block under the sole bar and then cut a short length of 1.5mm inside diameter styrene tube to fit over the rod once it passed through the mounting block to create a locking washer which retains the lever but allows movement.





Before it hits the paint shop, I still need to solder the coupling links closed and add the pins and chain to the brake levers.

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Very good Rob.  I've put brake gear on back to front from time to time so I know that you really do need to pay attention.  I like that you have the lever moving.

My friend for whom I built the Connoisseur NBR brake would be excited to see the wagon.  If you intend to sell it, I might just have a customer.

I wanted to start a Parkside/Peco GWR horsebox today but discovered that there were critical frets missing.  Antics have been advised and their assistance requested.

John


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Thanks John,
The GWR Horsebox kit is a nice kit and goes together very nicely. I ended up selling mine with it not being common user.

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I would say that most Parkside kits are quite good and go together well, when all the parts are present that is.  Wonder if missing parts are a Peco thing. 

The exceptions are brake vans and plastic step hangers and lamp brackets.  Totally inadequate material, needs to be metal a la Slaters.

John

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Since Telford I have been building some Slaters Wagons for a chap that is suffering from Motor Neurone disease but is endeavouring to make one last layout. They are finally complete and although I have enjoyed the building of them I am glad that they are finished and will be delivered to their owner next weekend at Bristol Show.

They are to be used on a Layout called Hobson's Brewery, hence the faint 'ALE' branding on the cattle wagons.

Here are the official portraits of each van.





Sadly Paul Barlett informs me that running number B68501 belongs to a steel mineral....but I am sure that I took the numbers from the ranges supplied in the Slaters instructions - all things BR not being my strong point.















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Another session last night saw the GC open is almost finished, it just needs retaining chains for the side doors on the other side and the buffers fitting properly - just posed here for the photos.



The inside is nicely detailed albeit the bottom doors are for the version without the trestle bar so mine will be tarped when finished so they won't be visible.





I will definitely be adding more of these to a shopping list in the future.

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The eagle eyed amongst you will also note that I have attacked the rather square profile of the coupling hook with some diamond coated burrs that fit my Dremel

In true Blue Peter fashion - Before:


After:


It looks more like a proper coupling hook now

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Oh very tasty!  You have a real knack with the models and a paint brush.  

Michael

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Thanks Michael.


                 

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