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Ed
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It’s been cold, dark, wet and ‘orible nearly all week, so very little done on the layout in the garage.

With a taste of what’s to come over the next few months fresh in my mind, I thought how about a little shunting plank/puzzle I could work on indoors.

After much searching across forums and a lot of time reading the late Carl Arendt’s website, I came up with this.



‘Sort of’ based on the Piano Line, which I know a lot of theses puzzles/planks are.

This is version …………. dunno, lost count. But it has shrunk from 6’ x 2’ to a more manageable 4‘ x 12” to enable me to carry it from the garage and set it up on the kitchen table.

All the track is left overs from previous incarnations of the garage layout, apart from one right hand Setrack point which I’ll have to purchase along with some rail joiners.

Having changed my main layouts theme/era I have a number of Hornby Pugs and a Bachmann J72 to run on the puzzle plank, along with some swb PO open wagons and vans.

Power is a Gaugemaster Model D, which is currently only used to power two point motors and the turntable (now almost redundant) on the main garage layout.

Point control will be wire in tube or similar, but may be hand from the sky initially.

I know I’ll get stalling over the Insulfrog points, but that’s not really a problem as the idea of the puzzle is to shunt specific wagons into designated sidings, with or without a slight nudge from a finger. The Insulfrogs also help keep the size of the plank down.

After lots of estimating I think a 3 wagon train will fit in the loop, the Coal and Warehouse sidings will each hold two wagons, and the Yard with Crane, one.

‘M’ denotes where magnets will be for uncoupling if I use Kadees. I’ll need extra magnets on the Yard with Crane siding, if I use small T/L with paper clip couplings (no Kadee shuffle).

Apologies for the long post but my question is, before I go cutting up some wood for a baseboard, have I missed anything?



Ed

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As a shunting puzzle Ed, I'm never sure why you need sidings flying off the main central pointwork in both directions ............ :roll: :roll: :roll:

Assuming you're using a single loco, and the idea is to assemble a train in a given order on either the lower or upper siding, why would you need the sidings at the opposite side ?  At some stage, your loco would end up being locked in by the stock ...........................


Ed
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Petermac wrote: As a shunting puzzle Ed, I'm never sure why you need sidings flying off the main central pointwork in both directions ............ :roll: :roll: :roll: Simply space Peter. How much track work can you get into a micro layout and still make it operable.

Assuming you're using a single loco, and the idea is to assemble a train in a given order on either the lower or upper siding, why would you need the sidings at the opposite side ?  At some stage, your loco would end up being locked in by the stock ........................... Train arrives from storage and you then need to push the wagon(s) into the required sidings, using the loop to run round.




Example of timesaver (done against the clock).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynoU_u2ZtZQ


Ed

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Thanks Ed.

I still don't understand why it's like that.............. :roll: :roll: :roll:

With my puzzle, there is only one half of that layout - a headshunt top left and 3 sidings to the right.  Wagons - 8 off - are placed randomly on those 3 sidings with the loco in the headshunt.  The object is to form a train of 5 wagons in a given order on the top siding - the only one long enough to accommodate 5 wagons.

With sidings at both sides, at some stage, the loco is going to be boxed in - unless of course, you're making 2 trains ...... :roll: :roll:  i.e.  I can't see how you can get a wagon from the left hand side of the loco to the right hand side of it as there's no "run around"......................... :hmm

Petermac
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Belay that last comment - I'm just being stupid ..................... :oops: :oops: :oops:

It's just dawned on me. :thumbs :thumbs :thumbs

Ed
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With  five wagons and a loco, your puzzle must be quite long Peter.

Here's an earlier plan I did for four wagons is which about 5' 3"  x 20".




Getting it down to 4' (albeit with only three wagons) is part of the 'fun' in designing it and makes the board more manageable.


Ed
 

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Remember I only have one side of your layout Ed.

I'm in UK at present so can't check, but I think my board is only 4ft long.  My "train" siding, top right, is long enough for 5 x 4 wheel wagons and the headshunt, top left, is long enough for the loco (0-6-0) plus, I think, 1 wagon.  The other 2 sidings accomodate 3 and 2 wagons respectively.  You start off with 8 wagons placed randomly on all 3 sidings and have to assemble the 5 wagon train in a given order on the top right "train" siding in as few moves as possible.

Ed
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Slightly different type of puzzle then Peter.

On yours you make up a train, on mine I'll be 'spotting' wagons, which should be interesting if they don't come on to the layout in the order they need to be 'spotted'.

I can make it more complicated (probably impossible), by having empty wagons that need to be removed before being replaced by the one that's just arrived.

(Just playing trains really  :lol: )



Ed

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The difference is that you've got an Inglenook Peter, but

Ed has a Timesaver. The Inglenook is totally random, and

has British origins, whereas the Timesaver, which originated


in the States, is (or can be) a set puzzle done against the

clock and/or minimum number of moves.

Last edited on Mon Nov 14th, 2016 11:13 pm by jcm@gwr

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Yes that's true - mine's an Inglenook.  I only do "simple" ................. :roll: :lol: :lol:

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Mine's a Timesaver, Peter.  They all have little variances, but work on the same principle.  They key is the backward facing turnout at the bottom.  My variance is the gauntlet.  It was caused by the slipway, and it adds a bit more of a challenge.

At our last meeting, I had to kick the lads out.  They couldn't stop playing with it.  :lol:

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Hi Ed,

Nice project for the winter months.

Nigel

Ed
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Hope so Nigel.

We've had a couple of mild winters, but last week was more like mid-Winter than late Autumn (or perhaps I'm just getting old).

I've taken most of the locos and rolling stock off the garage layout and packed them away in boxes, roll on April  :lol:

I printed the track plan and put a few wagons on to check clearances around the loop, look ok.



I've also altered the plan to make the board a bit deeper, which allows me to get the controller on the board and straighten out the entry road.



I've got to build the baseboard in the garage as there's no room indoors.

Wood's cut, just got to screw/glue everything together and get it all painted before it gets too cold again at the end of the week.



Ed







Last edited on Tue Nov 15th, 2016 04:07 pm by Ed

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Hi Ed,

I was perusing a 1945 Sanborn map of Great Falls, Montana last night (part of an ongoing research project for a currently stalled home mini-layout). These maps, drawn up by the Sanborn Insurance Company, are useful because they show the buildings and their dimensions, their owners/business, railway tracks, freight spurs, track rights, water mains, sand buckets, pipes, etc and are extremely accurate. 'Old on, I ses to meself, I sen that afore! And there they were - 2 "Piano" track plans with the typical parallel loop in the middle and a reverse turnout, one serving a large flour mill complex with 2 railroads (Great Northern, Milwaukee Road), and the second serving a group of local industries (lumber yards, iron works, warehouses, oil depot, Great Northern serviced). One after the other on the same industrial line.

A quick look at John Allen's Timesaver track plan showed them to be almost identical, length excepted, the prototypes covered at least a mile, and I definitely do not have 60', more like 5' plus a 3' fiddle at either end (rather than a storage/casette line and it keeps the width down to 15"). The essential component seems to be that parallel runaround in the middle. Another quick peruse of the GN track plan (only 2000-odd miles) and a some other Sanborn maps across the US showed quite a few other examples, especially where 2 railroads did some interchanging when servicing local industries.Just thought I'd let you know such track plans are actually prototypical. I found 3 examples between Oxford North and Morris Cowley works (you have to look carefully).

Inspiration at last. Looks like I also have a winter project. Enough of my ramblings.

Nigel

 

 


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Interesting stuff Nigel.

I thought this puzzle/plan was totally fictitious, although I did read that there were sites in Somerset and Scotland that had similar track layouts to the Inglenook.

If your going to do a US one, you'll need longer sidings for freight cars than I need for wagons  :lol:


Ed


Last edited on Tue Nov 15th, 2016 07:11 pm by Ed

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Hi Ed,

68" long and 10" wide is all it took. John Allen's original (there were 2, I've seen the one in San Diego) was built on a plank, code 70 track and Baker uncouplers (early tension lock design). My "board" is 64" long, plus those 3' ends. Neerenuff. If I stick with 40' boxcars I should be OK. Although those diesel switchers could be a tight fit. At least electrical pick-up wouldn't be an issue. The plan at the moment is...no, this is your thread, I'll post separately.

Nigel

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Baseboard done.





Plan stuck on, and ............



good grief, it fits.

Only problem is, one of the old points fell apart so I've had to order a replacement.



C'est la vie

 
Ed



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Couple of rather dark pictures from last week (sunset is a bit early this time of year).

All track down

 

and wiring done.



With a view to using what I already have and not buying too much, I thought about GEM Mercontrol for controlling the points.

Although I had enough levers and wire I didn't have enough PTFE tubing, so I've used some stiff garden wire, screw eyes and beads left over from previous testing on Latton Fields.







Choc block 'inards' connect the wire to bent paper clips through the tie bar, which should allow  for any future adjustment.

(I know the point control wire looks very near the bus wires but believe me it isn't, it's just the camera angle.)

Just wondering how cheaply I can do this, as so far I've only bought:

Wood and Screws (Wickes) £15.77
Folding Table (Argos) for legs (I already had one)  £7.99
Rail joiners, as I'd run out (eBay) £2.90
Two points as I needed one, and one I already had broke (eBay) £13.50
I was going to use the Gaugemaster Model D from the garage to power this, but as I had some Amazon vouchers left from a recent birthday so I've bought a Gaugemaster Combi for an additional £11.21.
Wiring was all left overs from Latton Fields.
Loco(s) and wagons, redundant items from Latton Fields.

Total so far, £51.37.

Can I get the puzzle working and a bit of scenery done for less than £100  :hmm



Ed

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Yep.  :thumbs

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Hi Ed,

Victorian wiring then (bare wires and nary a ceramic insulator). Makes soldering the droppers easy though.

Nigel

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Nothing fancy Nigel, I'm using the KISS principle :lol:

 I was thinking I might screw another piece of ply to the bottom and make a sandwich, but it might take too big a chunk out of my £100 target.



Ed

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Hi Ed,

Do that and you'll miss out on polishing up those wires with Brasso.

Nigel

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I decided before Christmas that I would need some additional motive power for the puzzle plank as the 0-4-0s I have, just wont run through the insulfrog points without stalling at the sort of low speeds required.

I already have a Bachmann J72 which I had (eventually) chipped for DCC operation, but with the change of theme on Latton Fields I un-DCCed it and screwed some Kadees on in place of the tension locks.


(sorry about dark pictures)



 had a search around that well know auction site for some more 0-6-0s, which with more wheels and pickups aren't a problem through the insulfrog points and managed to win ...



Needs a clean and Kadees fitting but it's the older Hornby J13 version based on the jinty chassis (ol' reliable), not the newer J52 which has traction tyres, and it sort of sticks to a LNER theme.

I also found this........



What a beauty, don't think it's ever been run apart from testing. Geared brilliantly for shunting, runs really slow even at full power.


Of course that got me interested in  a bit of history.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wemyss_Private_Railway

Fascinating stuff.

Since I didn't really need more than 1 loco I'm not including these in my £100 budget for the plank.

My game, my rules,................ and I don't care  :lol:


Well, it is Christmas.



Ed



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I like that orange beastie, Ed.  :thumbs

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I just had a read of the Wemyss story in the link, Ed.

There's a topic for a layout there.  :cool:

Ed
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Would make a good freight only layout Max.

I think someone in Liverpool was building something, but not sure how far they got.

http://wemyssprivaterailway.info/

There appears to be quite a lot of information about and I did see some books advertised, but they're a bit pricey.

http://www.buckhaven.info/html/wemyss_private_railway.html

https://www.railscot.co.uk/locationnew.php?loc=Wemyss%20Private%20Railway


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Been mainly playing with Kadees over Christmas.

I’ve used #5s for the wagons and although the draft boxes stick out a bit, they’re cheap and work pretty well.

The Bachmann J72 has #18s fitted by drilling a hole through the coupling and reusing the original screws.

The Hornby Austerity (J94) has a #18 on the front and a #19 on the back using the same method.

Tried both the Kadee 321 and rows of 5 x 3mm Cube Neodymium magnets.

Don’t know how everyone seems to get 3mm cube magnets to operate when flush with the sleepers but mine are N35 and won’t operate the couplings without a thin strip of styrene underneath to raise them slightly.

The J94 must have deeper flanges than the J72 as it’s wheels kept catching on the now raised cube magnets, but didn’t have a problem with the Kadee 321.

Finally the penny dropped that although the top of the Kadee 321 magnet is 0.4mm above the rail top on code 100 rail, it’s only 13mm wide.

I could have altered the back to back on the J94, but doubted my ability to move the wheels by a fraction of a millimetre after taking it all apart.

The answer was to shorten the row of magnets by getting some 2mm x 3mm x 3mm Neodymium magnets.

Three 3mm cubes plus two 2mm cubes is 13mm, same as the width of the Kadee 321.

Couplings appear to be working ok and the wheels don’t catch the magnets.




Bit messy, but I've glued and removed magnets quite a few times between these sleepers.
Bit of ballast, lick of paint, it'll do  :mutley

Kadee 321 down the other end.



Bit of foam against the axle of a van to act as a brake.



Old coins no longer legal tender, acting as temporary weights.



I already had some Kadees in stock, so if I say add £10 to the cost of the plank it's now around £70.

Don't think I'll manage scenery as well for less than the target though.



Ed



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Another problem solved, Ed.  :cool:

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To be fair Max, as you know Kadees are designed for HO US outline stock, so any OO British outline use is always going to be a bit of a workaround.

And it does keep the old grey matter ticking over  :lol:




Ed

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Ed, mixing the two sizes is something I had not thought of as I had found fitting the five 3mm cubes can be VERY tight so you have come up with another idea to join the list just like Gary with his vertical method.

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Just lucky that I found some 3mm x 3mm x 2mm cubes with the poles on the 3mm x 3mm faces Ron.

I tried four 3mm x 3mm x 3mm to give a 12mm length and it's not quite long enough to make the trip pins work properly.

Kadee have obviously made a pretty precise system with a 13mm wide magnet.

I made a slightly tidier job of the next one.



Still a bit of a fiddly job and probably not as easy as Gary's vertical method.



Ed


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Slow progress as family illness has made domestic duties a priority.

However, a few buildings I dug out of a box in the garage originally intended for Latton Fields but no longer required.



Yard crane and some accessories which came free with (I think) Railway Modeller Annual couple of years ago.



Last week I painted the board brown and managed to create a back scene using a picture downloaded from the web and a wall using some Metcalfe Stone Sheets I already had. 



No additional costs, unless you add a colour ink cartridge for the printer which I needed anyway.

(I'm still working on the joins.)

Created a base for the engine shed out of card and painted it black.






Had to do a few repairs to the shed as one of the main doors and one of the back doors had fallen off.

I've also stuck the lamp above the main doors back on, but where the lamp above the notice board on the side and the finial on the rear of the roof have gone is anybody guess.




Fits quite snugly but the question is, do I remove it and risk damage when it's stored separately every time I move the plank, or do I stick it 'in situ' which might make cleaning the track inside the shed a bit more difficult.

Think I'm going to try painting the track next.



Ed


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Some nice bits and pieces there, Ed.

I've got a double track loco shed on my HO plank.  I'm glad that I made it removable each time I clean the rails.

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Just about to stick it down Max, but now you've got me thinking  :hmm


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My attempts at painting the track and the beginnings of some sort of ground cover.



The track doesn't look as orange as in the picture, think it's due to the camera flash.

I bought the coaling stage to give a reason for a wagon to be 'spotted' in front of the engine shed. Took a rather large bit out of the £100 target at £8.20, but I like it.



The coal is from Javis at just £1, but I think it's way too big. If you compare the guy's shovel with some of the pieces of coal he'd never be able to pick it up.

The wagon uncouples at just the right point.......



.. and I've just noticed from the picture that the lamp above the engine sheds doors is hanging off.

Time to get the glue out, again.

I've 'spotted' both these wagons with the loco (honest guv, I didn't cheat) and the van has to be uncoupled and 'Kadee shuffled' back to the provinder store.



Feeling quite chuffed..... it works!



Ed

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Congratulations, Ed.  :cheers

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Thanks Max.




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It's coming to life Ed and is taking on an air of purpose.

You deserve to be rightly chuffed, well done!

Bill 

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Thanks Bill.

Although it's only really a shunting puzzle, doing some sort of scenery seemed a good idea.

I'm not in the same league as many of the modelers on here, but practice makes perfect .......... or so they say :lol:



Ed

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Did a bit more ground cover and started creating a coal yard last week.





I decided I didn't like the Superquick Goods Shed where it was as it's a bit too big, so probably just a loading dock going in it's place.

The Superquick Water Tower has gone as well to make way for the coal yard.

Think I've nearly blown the £100 budget as I've just bought two lorries (trucks if your outside the UK) and a Ratio weighbridge.

Problem is, what started out as a shunting puzzle is turning into a mini layout/diorama :oops:



Ed

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It was meant to be, Ed.  :cool:

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Great stuff Ed and don't sweat about funding, since mini-layouts and dioramas attract additional budget!
Lorries are a must of course for coal yards and easily made realistically grubby with dark washes and cotton buds. 

You are so obviously enjoying the build :)

Bill 

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I'm a real 'beginner' when it comes to scenery Max.

Trouble is I keep painting this or that, then thinking something else would look good, or start cutting up matchsticks to make a barrow crossing ......................................



Ed

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Making the coal lorry grubby is one of the next jobs Bill.

Of course I had to buy some coal sacks to go on the back, another £2.60 :lol:

I haven't actually run a loco all week.

Making 'the scene' look right is becoming a bit addictive.



Ed



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Yep, addiction isn't all bad though! John Day does white metal figures humping coal sacks for a few pounds and a stack of folded empty sacks can look good near some scales or on the lorry bed.
Bill

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Just bookmarked John Day Models, thanks Bill :thumbs


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Nice little project Ed...
and a good practice ground for refining your scenic skills too.

cheers

Marty

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Certainly warmer working on this in the Kitchen, than it would be working on Latton Fields in the garage Marty :lol:



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... and that is a win!
32.5°C and 51% Humidity here in Perth today.... swap you a bit for some of your cold?

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Nah it's ok, can always but another jumper on.

At least your not as hot as Sydney, from what I've been reading.



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Yup, breaking some records over there this year... here we've had the 2nd highest February rainfall in recorded history and the upper parts of the river where the vineyards are have just been declared Natural Disaster Zone status from flooding... the Shiraz harvest has been devastated :cry: 

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There does appear to have been some extreme weather about so far this year.

I blame the government...............


....... there again I blame them for everything anyway  :lol:


Ed

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The weightbridge has arrived and I've just plonked the packet roughly where I think it should go.

The red line indicates where I want to try and make a road from the coal yard, although I am making a couple of barrow crossings in the middle.



General view.



Thinking of replacing the goods shed with this bit of platform and the crane.



The platform needs another repaint and the crane has yet to be painted and fixed on.



Don't like the cotton, but I've manged to source a chain to replace it.

Not sure about the hook either, looks a bit big to me.

That chap with the shovel gets around a bit.



Ed

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Bob K found that the best thing to represent the cable on a crane was a bit of fine brass rod soldered or glued in place and then painted Ed.
I actually like the way the goods shed hid some of the scene?

cheers

Marty

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Sort of basing the crane on this Marty.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/31/Old_Crane%2C_Bishop%27s_Stortford_-_geograph.org.uk_-_1616552.jpg

It's a few miles up the road from me and it's actually on the river, but similar design and purpose.

Don't know about the Goods Shed. Somehow it seemed too big, but the again :hmm



Ed





 

Last edited on Tue Feb 14th, 2017 06:06 pm by Ed

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How about this goods shed ?





Needs some more work doing on it.




Ed

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It's very goods, Ed.  :lol:

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Groan.


:mutley

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Ed,
That fits better while still creating a bit of a view block and therefore interest. 
You'll be able to set up a road vehicle loading cameo on the road side too... and a little awning to keep them dry?

Marty


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Empty Sacks....little 3 x 4mm squares of elastoplast cut from the ends of plasters (the cloth sort) will stick together in semi-neat pile, and painted black/brown should look O.K.

Doug

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An awning shall be done Marty.

Bit stuck for doors though, perhaps just leave them off.

Thanks for the tip Doug :thumbs

I'll go and have a search in the bathroom cabinet, but I've got a feeling we've only got the 'orrible modern ones now.



Ed

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Progress to date.

I've been building up a roadbed using scatter, which has taken ages, as I have had to keep waiting for the PVA to dry before adding each layer.

Not a very good picture.



I now understand why people use air drying clay, filler or card etc. initially. Valuable lesson learned :oops:

Definitely going to try the air drying clay on the other end where the goods shed is going.

View the other way and about half the ground cover is done. Still needs bushes, grass, weeds and associated 'junk'




Overall view of where I'm at.

 

I'm just over budget, but don't expect to have to buy anything else.


That's about it, probably won't do any more on this until the winter.

Now it's back to Latton Fields, Catenary, and I think I was doing some road and pavement.


Ed



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Verra narse, Ed.  :cool:

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Thanks Max.

Think this has turned into more of a practice scenery plank rather than a puzzle, but if I don't like anything I can rip it apart and do it again.

A lot cheaper than doing the same thing in large areas on a bigger layout.


Ed




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Hi Ed.   I have been reading about "Rare Earth magnets",working really well? and the authors don't have any problemsI .But my magnets attracted the Kadee too well. Now I have discovered another fault. If one follows the guide lines? Of three, three and five wagons sidings? And uses kadee magnets , then the sidings are too short. Reason being one cannot couple the wagons and remove them  because they become uncoupled where there isn't enouh room.   Any comments?  Kevin

Last edited on Sat Aug 5th, 2017 08:07 pm by Passed Driver

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It is not the magnets attracting the Kadees that is the problem but metal wheels & axles and as UK models are lighter than NMRA recommendations https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/rp-20.1.pdf

I am reasonably sure that most USA outline models use non-magnetic metal for axles & wheels


Placement of magnets is usually done after some shunting to see where wagons are to be uncoupled, do the Kadee dance & then pushed into location. Short wheel based wagons can give more problems than the longer 40ft plus USA rolling stock.

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Hi Ron.  Thank you for your reply.. I laid the three sidings to take either Bachmann or Dapol wagons, two sidings at three wagons and one siding at five wagons and an 08 Shunter. And it was only then that I realised that the shorter sidings didn't have "Room for Manoeuvre " .the important point that I didn't mention was , the rare earth magnets "Clung on to them" a fatal attraction? And the Kadee magnets take up a lot of room. Where if I had read the footnote?
If using a permanent Uncoupling device such as a magnet for "magnetic couplers" requires some additional special attention. I will read the guidelines that you have provided . But my question is " if I make the sidings longer, do I then use a longer baseboard or sharper curved polnts???    All the best. Kevin

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Hi Ron.   Having read the chart you referred me to I realise that UK wagons may not be heavy enough.The "Lump of metal the Chinese place into a Bachmann wagon is approximately 20g". The heaviest in my collection is a "Queen Mary Brakevan" weighing in at 5oz or (146g) . Which would mean dismantling the covered vans, adding weight, and reasembing them, as for the coal wagons they would have to be loaded all the time( meaning no more empty coal wagons , but where does that leave the tankers?? And after all that effort , I cannot see how it will cure the Neodymium magnet issue of clinging onto the hook or whatever it is called.
The point about the "Nom ferrous wheels and axles"?? I did investigate at some of the shows I attended, and I am still considering my options , that said when I shunted  a non Kadee fitted wagon over a magnet it didn't have any effect on the wagon wheels. The only way out seems to be removing thr buffer stops completely or replacing them with a non standard Buffer stop or the awful short radius points. Pleaee advise. All the best. Kevin

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Kevin, can you do a plan showing the 3 sidings & their lengths to some scale and post it here and indicate where  you placed the uncoupling magnets?

From the Kadee website https://kadee.com/animation/c1.htm


Magnet A at the bottom for example is for 4 sidings

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My puzzle only requires one particular wagon to be spotted on a particular siding Kevin, so I haven't had any similar problems.

I've only just started playing with Kadees and Sol along with lots of others know far more about them than me.

Don't think curved points will help you as they tend to be quite long.

I can only suggest use less wagons in each of the sidings, or uncouple manually.


Ed

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Hi Ed.  Thank you for your reply. What I meant was those "Straight Points with a very sharp turn" = short as in Peco parlance, The ones more likely to cause derailments. Rather than the long radius points that I have chosen.All the best. Kevin

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The best space saving point I've found is the code 100 small Y point - electrofrog SL-E97, but it all depends on the track geometry whether you can get it to fit.

(SL-E197 is the more expensive code 75 version)


Ed



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Hi Ed.  Thank you again. I have got some of them( I only use code75) .On my other plank and they are better for tight spaces. I don't know if you have travelled on the " Docklands Light Railway"? But they must have used come short radius points.  All the best. Kevin

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I have your e-mail Kevin  and I cannot see where you have put the magnets but you don't need 3 sets - one set in each track , just one set to the right of the first turnout. Attached is a simple spreadsheet showing location of uncoupling magnet
With Kadee, one does not uncouple and leave it there in that spot because the hook will always stay open and re-coupling will not happen until the van is pushed further along, loco backed off to allow the couple to return to normal.


Short radius points are perfect for yards as running thru them is slow anyway.

 Wagon weights - I use lead sheet and for opens, they are scribed like planks and yes for vans; I pull them apart, add the weight and re-assemble. Tankers - drill a 3mm hole, fill up with sand, then plug the hole - not a 5 minute job but who is in a hurry? Another website has 0.55gm/mm making a standard UK van of 75mm to weigh in at 41gmm


Sorry Ed, now back to your thread.

Attachment: magnet location.xlsx (Downloaded 4 times)

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Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply. I haven't put the magnets in yet, as I thought they were to be on each siding.Is it okay to put just one magnet on the apptroach line then??? I purchased some car balance weights for some of my stock. The other problem with Bachmann stock is the " drooping.NEM pockets , I never gave a thought to Sand.
All the best. Kevin

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Passed Driver wrote: Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply. I haven't put the magnets in yet, as I thought they were to be on each siding.Is it okay to put just one magnet on the apptroach line then??? YES - didn't you read the Kadee website  I purchased some car balance weights for some of my stock. The other problem with Bachmann stock is the " drooping.NEM pockets  Yes Kadee NEM couplers may droop in the NEM pockets so one has to use slivers of styrene underneath in the pocket to hold the coupler up, I never gave a thought to Sand.
All the best. Kevin

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=8591&forum_id=156

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Hi. Ron. Thank you again. I always get into trouble by "Scanning something , an not reading it through", could do better. You have a good idea about when Kadees are fitted the buffers are not required on voyage. I will "proceed with caution" . All the best. Kevin

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Hi Ed.  I was considering "Keyboard Legs" for either of my planks, but, being as it isn't going anywhere unless I am doing the ironing? The ironing board seems a logical set of legs.   All the best. Kevin

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How about doing away with the magnets and just using the wooden skewer method of uncoupling?

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Hi thank you for your reply. But I prefer the magic of "Hands Free". All the best.

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Hi Ron.   Thank you . I googled Kadee and have been reading various opinions. And of course you ideas are the best.It seems that I really made a blunder with code 75, nice track but had I known the extra work in fitting Kadee magnets , that is assuming I had given " shunting puzzles a lot of attention ". I would/should have gone with code 100 of something completely different ( i.e. code 83 ) but I haven't got a crystal ball. My next task is to find a suitable location for one of my magnets, if that is, it don't involve too much faffing about. All the best.  Kevin

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Hi Ed.  Thank you. That seems an excellent choice, and I will bear it in mind if I build another plank?As I have two at the time of writing. It may have to either wait or one of the planks could get recycled?? And then I could purchase code 100 and using the Kadee would become straight forward ?  All the best. Kevin

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Passed Driver wrote: Hi Ron.   Thank you . I googled Kadee and have been reading various opinions. And of course you ideas are the best.It seems that I really made a blunder with code 75, nice track but had I known the extra work in fitting Kadee magnets , that is assuming I had given " shunting puzzles a lot of attention ". I would/should have gone with code 100 of something completely different ( i.e. code 83 ) but I haven't got a crystal ball. My next task is to find a suitable location for one of my magnets, if that is, it don't involve too much faffing about. All the best.  Kevin


Kevin, I have fitted the standard Kadee magnets into Code 75 track - a little bit of work & time  but I class it as part of the hobby. But as I have found, I prefer the 3mm Cube rare earth magnets in place of sleepers.
That thread if you have forgotten is http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=8481&forum_id=6

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Hi Ron. Thank you again.  My first trial with Neodymium magnets was with Tension Lock couplers, and  staples glued to the dropper worked well with a pair of disc magnets at 3/4" centres lengthways under the track. But then I "read" about the obvious advantage that you get with Kadee , the ability of being able to uncouple and loose shunt forwardto spot the wagon.   All the best Kevin

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I believe you can also do that with the tension lock and staple system Kevin, as described either on Gary's or Gormo's thread.

Bill

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Hi Bill.  Thank you for your reply. But there was another good reason fo me to abandon that idea, as I reported at the time, the droppers are aptly named. Because the "Whole Kit and Caboodle " dropped off. The tension lock.And when I realised about the Kadee ability to uncouple and loose shunt, that was good enough for me.
All the best. Kevin

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Hi Ed.  I have priced up? A Pug DCC conversion , and I'm not really sure it would be viable to convert all of them, unless "I'm feeling lucky" one day and have beginners luck on the lottery. I may just try one of the ex Dapol Pugs with the upright motor that occupies most of the cab. Or just run them DC? As the Hornby version seem to have the same type of motor, at least I should be okay for spares? Any comments? Please excuse me if I have said this before. All the best.  Kevin

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Passed Driver wrote: Hi Bill.  Thank you for your reply. But there was another good reason fo me to abandon that idea, as I reported at the time, the droppers are aptly named. Because the "Whole Kit and Caboodle " dropped off. The tension lock.And when I realised about the Kadee ability to uncouple and loose shunt, that was good enough for me.
All the best. Kevin
The point I was referring to Kevin, is the simple ability to loose shunt with the TL & staple system, if one desires this ability, without the need to modify all stock to the Kadee system, which often requires differing solutions for varied stock, but can be most rewarding.
Unfortunately, you seem to have been particularly unlucky, as I've never heard of such repeated TL coupling failures as you seem to have been visited by before.

Good luck and Bon courage!

Bill


Last edited on Wed Dec 27th, 2017 08:58 pm by Longchap

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Hi Ed.  I hope you aren’t frozen to death on your project . I was eager to know how you got on with the scenery??Every time I look on line for “ scratch built “ all I get is a load of nuisance adverts trying to sell me kits, of course there isn’t anything wrong with kits or skalescenes or whatever, but, I wanted to make my own. Please advise.  Best wishes Kevin

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Can't help you Kevin, haven't done any scratch building.

Nothing done on the plank as I've no room for it indoors at present. I might not take it any further anyway and reuse the board for something else.


Ed



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Ed wrote: ........................................... I might not take it any further anyway and reuse the board for something else.


Ed




What !!! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:  After all that effort and result ?  What's the problem with it Ed ?

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Hi Petermac    Sorry for butting in. But I have come a cropper? with the Uncoupling positioning of magnets on my Second “Non standard “ Inglenook Puzzle . Because more sidings looke an interesting proposition  I didn’t allow enough track to accommodate thr magnet. So it is back to the drawing board? Or in my case back to my original  “ Standard Inglenook .   Best wishes. Kevin

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Petermac wrote: Ed wrote: ........................................... I might not take it any further anyway and reuse the board for something else.


Ed




What !!! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:  After all that effort and result ?  What's the problem with it Ed ?

Nothing specifically Peter, but as I said back in post #64 "Think this has turned into more of a practice scenery plank rather than a puzzle".

I have plans for a new project/challenge, but I can't do anything yet as the spot where the plank would normally be indoors, has a table full of boxes of dressings for the leg infection I still have. Still got the district nurse coming in once a week to change the dressing and I need somewhere to store it all.

At the moment I just have to be content with making a few kits sat at the dining table.

When BT finally get around to fixing my broadband connection I'll start a thread on my thoughts/ideas, but reading threads and posting is extremely slow at present.


Ed



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Hi Ed,

I know the feeling, no point in going on if it turns out not what was envisioned. Had that with the EM plank I was building at a glacier rate. Lost interest in the end.

Nigel


                 

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