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Johns 7mm Coach Workbench - Kit Bashing - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon May 29th, 2017 10:10 pm
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Brossard
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This morning I got a load of wonderful underframe pictures from a kind member on RMWeb.  I spent today so far correcting my howlers.



I removed the vacuum and steam pipes and made corrections.  I kept the old vacuum pipe but bent it to crossover nearer the vacuum cylinder.  I replaced the steam pipe with tube of the next larger OD and arranged it to have a low spot where I made up a drain valve.

The pipes did not run along the structure but were inset.  I glued on brass strips similar to what the photos show and soldered the pipes to those.

I also noticed that the outer V hanger near the cylinder should be cranked outward so I did that.  I also refined the cylinder itself and added a safety loop over the actuating crank.

John



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 Posted: Tue May 30th, 2017 09:14 pm
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Brossard
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Is it a coach or a loco?

Got this today:



AC Railbus from Heljan.  Lovely thing and surprisingly heavy.  I gave it a quick run on DC and it goes nicely.  I'll have to get a sound decoder but not yet, it's been a dear month.

Heljan maintain their reputation for bits falling off and I have a baggie with all the parts that were lying at the bottom of the box.  No worries they'll easily go back on.

Completely wrong for my sort of Eastern themed layout, being WR, but I'm going to invoke rule 1 and besides, I like it and it was 100 pounds off.

John



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 Posted: Tue May 30th, 2017 09:43 pm
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Brossard
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OK, back to the serious stuff.

I think construction of the underframe is now done:



Things added since yesterday:

- safety chains on the brake yokes
- safety loops on the outer manual brake actuators
- trusses
- brake handle s and guides
- spring and axleboxes.



Lovely side view showing all the busyness, just what I like.  :pathead

Yes it STILL runs.

Last night I began to turn my thoughts to the body.  I reviewed my window bars against the photos and realized I was the victim of an optical illusion.  The verticals should be behind the window frame and not visible.  I therefore refined what I had by repositioning my verticals 1mm to the side.



I also cleaned them up ready to install.  I think I'll leave the light grey primer as the final colour.

John



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 Posted: Thu Jun 1st, 2017 06:57 pm
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Brossard
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I did the roof the other night.  Not as drama free as other projects.  The rainstrips are provided in the kit but are thin and brittle.  When I started to clean one up it broke so I abandoned the notion and, instead, used Evergreen 0.040" x 0.040" (1mm x 1mm) strip.  This is flexible and can be teased into a curve easily.



The other dramatic moment was that as I rummaged in the box for the roof vents, I couldn't find them.  I can't say whether they were missing from the kit or whether I lost them.  Anyway, I attacked my now bulging spares box and came up with some.

I used UP Dark Grey (it was handy) on top of grey primer.  I don't get bent out of shape trying to use the official BR colour.  Whatever colour the roof was when outshopped it would quickly get filthy.

I've also done some work on the sides and ends:



Outside is currently in red oxide primer.  I was advised by an RMWeb member that the insides of these were painted a pale green after consultations with union.  I have no idea whether the green I used is correct.  I was in the hardware store buying wood to complete my layout boards and bought a can of Krylon Catalina Mist.  It quite a pleasing colour.

I hope to tack one side to the underframe (still in paint) and to make sure things fit.  Fingers crossed.

John



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 Posted: Thu Jun 1st, 2017 07:20 pm
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Brossard
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Looking very like the aftermath of a battle with Vlad of Wallachia, I washed the figures using window cleaner and stuck them on toothpicks.  These were sprayed with grey primer:



Already the casting definition is much improved.

John



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 Posted: Thu Jun 1st, 2017 11:02 pm
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Rob Pulham
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It's amazing how being able to actually see them after the coat of primer improves them no end. The bare plastic seems to dispel the everyday shadows that become apparent after a coat of paint.



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 Posted: Thu Jun 1st, 2017 11:26 pm
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Brossard
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Yes I do agree Rob.  Perhaps its the shininess of the bare resin that does that.  I've made a start and will show how I get on later.

John



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 Posted: Fri Jun 2nd, 2017 10:16 pm
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Brossard
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After a lot of faffing I got the body sides assembled to the chassis and painted:



I'm really quite pleased with this.  I used Humbrol acrylic brush painted.  A surprisingly good finish and yet to be varnished.

There was some concern expressed by other builders of this kit that there would be gaps and poor fit.  I did take care to offer up the sides to the chassis and fettled areas where I thought there would conflict.  In the end I got a good fit.

I also added weight using G0G guidelines on 1g/mm of length, or about 225 gms.

The question now is whether the ends should be crimson or black.

John



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 Posted: Sat Jun 3rd, 2017 01:49 am
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MaxSouthOz
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That's looking very promising, John.  :thumbs



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 Posted: Sat Jun 3rd, 2017 10:47 pm
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Brossard
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It's been a struggle but I got the figures painted:



From normal viewing distances and certainly a coach they look OK I think.  My biggest problem was getting the faces to look credible.  I did try to detail eyeballs but these are just too small for that.  They say you're supposed to mix your own flesh tone and I reviewed an article on painting 7mm figures in MRJ 230.  However I use acrylics which behave differently from enamels.  I used Tamiya Flesh.

After trying to do faces several times I finally scraped the paint off so as to reveal the detail.  Finally I hit on the solution which was to use heavily thinned paint on the faces so as not to obscure the detail.  (If you're using enamels, one method is to paint the figures black and dry brush colour on.  This way you've already got the shadows.) 

I finished the faces by applying a thin wash to highlight the shadow line detail - not ideal but the faces shouldn't have a flat texture. 

The trick with the bodies is to paint outwards.  For example for shirts you paint white on the area without even trying to stay in lines.  When dry, you can use a 000 brush to paint on the tie.  You then paint the suit away from the shirt area.

I dredged up all sorts of colours from my paint stash.  Primary colours but also tangerine, purple, maroon, catwhisker yellow, railroad tie brown, earth, dirt and so on.  Anything goes really I think.

When done, I used the Tamiya Panel Lining wash to highlight the shadows.

I sprayed the figures with matt clear coat although the lights still make things look shiny.

Glad that's done.  Phew!

John



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 Posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 12:13 am
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Genetk44
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Look very good to me John.



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 Posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 01:14 am
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Hi John,

Looking very good.

Nigel



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 Posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 01:53 am
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MaxSouthOz
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They look mighty fine from here, John.  :thumbs



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 Posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 01:56 am
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Brossard
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Thanks all. Onwards and upwards.

John



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 Posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 02:49 am
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allan downes
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I have some O Gauge pre painted Preiser figures here, John where no attempt has been made at painting in the face detail other than the overall face colour and they look brilliant. A lot of modellers attempt to paint in the eyes and eye brows and they really look terrible to say the least. Best left plain for best results I would say.

Here's an example


Allan


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 Posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 03:13 am
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MaxSouthOz
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I've always liked Preiser O scale figures, Allan but they are hard to source from here.

Is there a good supplier in the UK?

Also, are they plastic?  I like to drill one leg and glue a Peco track pin into the hole.  I find the pewter ones really difficult to drill, so I've stuck with Bachmann; but they don't have much of a range.



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 Posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 03:14 am
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Brossard
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That does look good Allan.  I may look at getting some for the platform where my poor efforts will show things up.  The figure could do with a brown wash just to bring out creases and crevices.  It's a subjective thing though.

John



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 Posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 02:02 pm
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allan downes
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Hi, Max. Hope this helps and, they are made out of plastic.

Allan


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 Posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 02:06 pm
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allan downes
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Hi again, Max.

You'll find that most of the OO figures are repeated again in 7mm.


Also you'll get to see much more if you visit the Gaugemaster Site.


Allan



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 Posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 06:25 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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Thanks for your efforts, Allan.

I'll have a good look later.

Cheers



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