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Sixteen tons and what do you get........ - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Oct 16th, 2016 01:37 pm
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Ed
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A real ‘can of worms’ ?

Never knew there was so much to learn about the humble BR 16T mineral wagon.

For example

http://www.ltsv.com/w_profile_041.php




BR 16 Ton Mineral Wagons (For scrap metal train).

Since changing to a more modern era (whatever that means) with diesel and AC locomotives, I thought I should do something with the Lima PO open wagons I currently have and was in the process of repainting.



Conversion to steel bodied mineral wagons seemed to be the obvious path, so I started doing some research.

Trying to depart from coal traffic, which was well in decline by the sort of period I’m aiming at, I thought a scrap metal train would be the answer, with a small scrap yard as one of my ‘Industrial Sidings’ on Latton Fields. Good excuse for freight operations and doesn’t have to be an excessively long train on my small layout.

Decided on MCV, which has a 10’ wheel base, were built 1975 and numbered B596000 to B596393.

Shouldn’t have top flap door, but hey, ho, modeller’s licence.

http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mineralmcv10ft 

Dapol unpainted mineral wagon bodies fit quite well, but the ‘orrible great tension lock couplings had to go.

Since I’m running block trains with no reason to uncouple individual wagons, I’ve gone for paper clips.



The close coupling that resulted looked quite good.



The four wagons nearest the loco are Lima with paper clip couplings. The two wagons at the other end are Dapol with small tension locks.

Decided I didn’t like the gap on the small tension locks either, so I spent yesterday fitting paper clip couplings to those as well.



Slightly different angle and the wagons are in a different order, but I think it looks better.

(I know the second wagon has a coal load, but it’s the way the Dapol wagon is screwed together and will be removed.)

Tested this morning by pushing the rake around my second radius curves, and seems ok. Buffers almost touch at some places but no locking, so I’m pretty happy with that.

I’ve got one more wagon on order to bring the rake up to seven, then it’s on to applying some Railtec transfers.


Ed



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 Posted: Sun Oct 16th, 2016 02:43 pm
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Marty
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Nice Ed. I like the paper clip method if you're happy running block trains. A cheap alternative.
cheers



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 Posted: Sun Oct 16th, 2016 02:48 pm
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Ed
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Anything to save money for more locos Marty  :mutley

Think (hope) once I paint them black, they will hardly be noticeable.





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 Posted: Mon Oct 17th, 2016 04:31 am
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Noviceman
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Hi Ed like idea of paper clips for coupling repairs
Did you finish weathering your 16 ton minral wagon posted few months back pics please

Thought you would like to read Story Woodham Brothers Ltd Barry Scrapyard Nr Barry Island
Google, http://www.great westen.org.uk barry 1.
Or          Woodham Brother Wikipedia pdia HTTP// EN wiki Woodhams.  ENJOY

Best of Luck from South Wales.

Noviceman

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 Posted: Mon Oct 17th, 2016 11:05 am
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Ed
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Noviceman wrote:
Did you finish weathering your 16 ton minral wagon posted few months back pics please



Wasn't me David, haven't done any weathering yet.

I want to do these, so I'll be asking questions soon  :lol:

Here is a (very) brief glimpse of the type of wagon in use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glvAmIUhVac&feature=youtu.be&t=402


Ed




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 Posted: Tue Oct 18th, 2016 04:12 am
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Noviceman
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Hi Hd Sorry my mastake thought it was your postJust veiwed your post wagon history, history allways intreseting.
Looking forward to seeing your up date,s

Around 1960 many company,s used 16t wagon,s thay ether where sold private sale, spare,s or sent for scrap, please veiw  Woodham Brothers Ltd Barry Scrap Yard Near Barry Island  at
HTTP// WWW  Great Western. Org. U,K.

Best of Luck from South Wales.

Noviceman.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 23rd, 2016 01:32 pm
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Ed
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Wagon number 7 arrived, duly painted and paper clip hook applied.




You may notice Kadee couplings on the end wagons and loco. Something else I've been looking at, mainly because of the close coupling.

I've swapped the wheels on five, to Hornby R8097 three hole disk wheels. The other two have solid disk wheels as that's all I had left.

(Can't understand why Dapol sell there unpainted 16t Mineral Wagon with spoked wheels!)

I'm aiming to pick up some Humbol 135 Satin tomorrow to apply to the panels where the decals will go, but I'm a bit unsure as to what matt varnish to apply afterwards.

I've read some horror stories where people have applied a matt finish, only to find the decals then disintegrate.

Assume I would be safe with Humbrol 49 matt varnish.

Long time since I've done any of this. I think the last time I applied decals, was to an Airfix Sherman tank in 1960 something.


Ed








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 Posted: Sun Oct 30th, 2016 03:05 pm
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Couldn't get gloss varnish locally, so ended up having to get some on-line.

Brushed two coats on the panels where the decals will go yesterday and although it does feel smooth, doesn't look very glossy. 



I used Humbrol #35 acrylic gloss varnish (once I'd eventually got the lid off) and despite a lot of stirring it was very milky in colour, although it has dried clear.

Just wondered if anyone else used this before applying decals.


Ed




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 Posted: Sun Oct 30th, 2016 04:53 pm
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Marty
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The last time I applied decals Ed... was about 1985... to a Leopard Tank.... maybe you and I should get together for a war gaming  night?
The gloss looked OK to me in the photo... but then... what do I know!

Get on with it mon brave... you can always scrape it off and have another go.

Cheers



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 Posted: Sun Oct 30th, 2016 08:29 pm
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Ed
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There's a thought Marty, War Gaming over the internet (bet somebody does it)  :lol:

Think I'll just give it a go later this week, just don't want to mess it up as the decals cost over £9.


Ed



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 Posted: Mon Oct 31st, 2016 04:53 pm
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Hi Ed,

It's an emulsion, it's supposed to be milky. If you use acrylic rattle cans from the craft store (Krylon brand over here) it's much cheaper and gives more uniform coverage. My experience with brushing is that the surface has to be flat, otherwise it will run and streak.

Nigel



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 Posted: Mon Oct 31st, 2016 05:30 pm
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Ed
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Ah, ha. Makes sense now.

Thanks Nigel  :thumbs




Ed



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