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Johns 7mm Wagon Workbench - Kit Bashing - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Jan 9th, 2017 04:45 pm
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Rob Pulham
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Hi Allan,
What a small world,  we lived in Stanley 15 years ago - we moved in in 1999.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2017 06:25 pm
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Brossard
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Alright enough with the reminiscing, back to work.

Over the last several days I've been working on getting my PO wagons into their "end of life" condition not quite "condemned".

Here we go:





Note the replaced planks and drop door.  This wagon doesn't have bottom doors.







More replacement planks.



The process is a lengthy one and quite exhausting.

First, I used a fiberglass pen to fade the lettering and body colour.  Next I masked the bodies and sprayed black patches for the number, bottom door indicator and tare.  For the Parkside Charlesworth wagon this was a mistake because, to my horror, when I removed the masking tape, much of the lettering and paint came with it - a poor do.

I used aged concrete for the natural wood planks.

If anyone s moved to take this job on, get yourself some black patch transfers - far easier.

In preparation for transfers, I sprayed a coat of gloss varnish on the bodies.

Next I applied P numbers, vee and Tare using Fox transfers.

The white stripe denoting end door was very difficult and I eventually gave up trying to get the transfer to work.  I painted it instead which involved a massive amount of masking tape.  I did have some success with a paint pen, but mine is old and blobby.

After all this was dry, I sprayed on some flat varnish.

The fun stuff next.  Using my airbrush I sprayed on a light coat of dirt.  I covered the underneath and solebars and a short way up the body.  This was followed by a light coat of black in the same place.  This really does tend to bring out detail.

With the paint dry, I moved on to powders.

I started with rust, coating the metal parts, W irons, springs, iron fittings on solebar, buffers, strapping and rubbing it down with an old brush (don't use a good one, this really wrecks brushes).  Next I applied burnt umber powder (dirt) to tone down the rust.  Finally I used black powder to bring everything together.

I used a fiber pen to bring out bare metal on the buffer heads.  I used a silver pencil to highlight the door banger end which would have been bare metal.

I didn't neglect the interior.  I started by using my airbrush to spray aged concrete on the bottom and sides.  I then used pretty much the same procedure as described above to try to represent a natural wood but abused interior.

John




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 Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2017 06:44 pm
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Rob Pulham
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Superb John,
Whose make is the aged concrete paint colour? It sounds like a useful colour to have on hand.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2017 07:21 pm
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Brossard
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Thanks Rob, I still have quite a few bottles of Poly S acrylic (excellent paint)  but the range was discontinued by Testors.  It's sort of a light yellow/cream which I think is a good starting point for natural wood.  Certainly not wood coloured paint :roll:.

John



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 Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2017 07:34 pm
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Rob Pulham
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Cheers John,
I like the idea of it being acrylic, a shame it's discontinued.

I use mostly Vallejo these days - not only because it's good paint, but more because I can buy it local to me.




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 Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2017 07:47 pm
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Brossard
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I mostly use acrylic.  Vallejo is superb paint with a wide range of colours.  I saw a video of theirs on weathering a Panzer II - it fair took my breath away.  I did a quick search and there are lots.

John




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