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More Wind power - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2016 07:25 pm
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The Bankie
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Hi
Back in September  last year (2015) I put a short description of a model of Thurne Mill, a mill I had visited whilst on holiday in Norfolk, on post 196 of the "Trams from card or paper" thread. I said I would put the build here in Scratchbuilding, did the write up then got a bit overtaken with various medical snags and forgot all about it.
Terry (Col Stephens) has put an article about a windmill on the Scratchbuilding thread and reminded me that I have not posted mine.
So Here it is.

THURNE WINDPUMP



These pumps and mills can be seen all over the Fens and the Broads and provided the main method of lifting drainage water from the local drains and dykes into the rivers and main drains. Originally they used “scoop” wheels or Archimedean screws to raise the water. Later, centrifugal turbines were used so both the windmills and pumps were kept as simple as possible for ease of construction and maintenance.
The truth is that from the 1950s onwards they were simply left to get on with it and carried on working until either the towers collapse, the sails blew down or the pump bearings collapsed.
The fact that so many have survived is a testament to the craftsmen who built them.
Originally they were either built of cheap brick and tarred or painted for waterproofing, or, weatherproof brick if the owners wanted to show their status.

Page 1


Page 2


Page 3




  1. Start by cutting out the mill base, the base of the mill tower and the mill base jointing strip from page 1.
  1. Glue the jointing strip to one straight side of the tower base ensuring the central line is covered by the side of the tower.
  1. When the glue is dry curl the tower base round and glue the other side abutting the first side. If the sides have not been cut to remove all of the black outline, trim them off or you will have a black vertical stripe up the tower base which you will need to paint over.
  2. Repeat steps 2 & 3 with the middle and upper tower sections. Glue the joining strip on the lower point of each section. Do not glue these completed sections on to the conical tower base yet.
  3. Fold the split inner sections of the mill base upwards and glue to the inside of the conical tower base.
  
  1. Glue the middle and upper tower sections on to the conical base. Middle first then upper.
  2. Cut out the cap and the inner cap sections.
  3. Fold down the cap skirt and glue to form a box on the lower edge. This is the edge facing away from the printed roof as this will be progressively pulled over to form the roof at stages 11 and 12.
  1. Glue the front and rear inner sections to the cap base and fold up along fold lines.

  1. Choose the position for the mill to face. Fold down the split inner sections and glue the cap into position.
  1. Using the triangular tabs, glue the side of the roof attached to the cap platform to the outer faces of the INNER cap front and rear sections.
  2. Check for fit and repeat the procedure with the remaining side.
  3. Raise the front and rear faces of the cap and glue over the tabs. This hides them.

  1. Cut out and glue together the five sail mainspars. Line them up on the central cross and glue over each arm.
  2. Glue the inner spar central bracing over the mainspars on both sides of the sail.
  3. Glue the outer spar certal bracing over the inner spar central bracing on both sides of the sail.
  4. Cut out, fold and glue the sails together.
  5. Glue the sails to the outer mainspars, aligning the line on the sail along the leading edge of the spar. It does not matter which way they face providing they all face the same way.
  6. Cut out and fold up the Rear decking. This is a rather odd shape but you should end up with two short box sections and two long flat pieces. The box sections are best glued as three inner folds and one outward fold. The outward fold being glued to the underside of the rear decking.

  1. Glue the rear decking to the sides of the mill cap by means of the long flaps projecting forwards.
  2. Cut out and fold up the Fantail bracing. It is easier if you pierce the holes for the actual fan before you fold this up. The bracing is folded inwards and the piece marked Fantail bracing is fixed under the rear decking with the wording downwards on the underside.
  3. Cut out and assemble the Fantail. Align the individual sections along the spokes of the central section on the opposite side to the printed side. Only glue the spokes as the fan needs to have gaps to allow it to catch the wind.
  4. Make a hole in the centre of the fan and mount it by passing a cut down pin or straightened paperclip through the holes in the mounting and the fan. Glue to secure.
  5. Cut out the two brick strips and use them to cover the respective lower section to mid section and mid to upper section joints. The original does not have these strips but they hide the joints.
  6. Starting from the base use the brown strip to represent the lightning conductor strip and, incedently, cover the vertical joints in th tower section. This is another feature the original lacks. Run it up under the cap and trim to fit.
  7. Cut out and assemble the pump housing. This was a centrifugal turbine on the original but scoop wheels were also used depending on the age of the mill.
  8. Make a hole throgh the centre of the sail disc and the blue spot on the front of the cap wall. If you want to be able to rotate the sails use a piece of a toothpick to mount the sail disc on and leave enough sticking out at the back to act as a counterballance when the sail is mounted to the face of the mill. Alternatively just leave enough to locate the sail and glue into position.


  1. Cut out and fold the Tailstock and glue to the underside of the rear decking.
  2. Place on the desired point on the layout, position the pump housing and sit back and enjoy your handiwork.





Print out the parts on plain white paper and glue on to 220 GSM card. This is thick enough not to deform when gluing the circular sections but will take a curve for the curved sections. Some detailing is attached should you wish to add it


Sorry about the rough pictures and the incorrect paragraph numbering but this was done in "Open Office" and refuses to register correctly when uploaded to the board.

Regards
Jim




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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2016 07:43 pm
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Ken
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Excellent workmanship Jim and you've come up with a very good building. 

I hope you won't mind me making a small suggestion: when taking photos, a reasonable sized piece of card placed behind the model would help it stand out more and would hide all the clutter etc!  ;-)

Ken.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2016 09:18 pm
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The Bankie
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Hi Ken

You said:-
I hope you won't mind me making a small suggestion: when taking photos, a reasonable sized piece of card placed behind the model would help it stand out more and would hide all the clutter etc.Mind? I positively need hints and tips.

Many thanks.

Regards
Jim



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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2016 11:59 pm
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The Bankie
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Right guys.
I have been trying to post .pdf files on the board as they should be accurate in size. Sucess is limited but let's see how this goes
Looks like You can only send  a single, small .pdf But at least I can send printable, accurate images if you want to try building the model even if I need to send Multiple .pdfs so there are anothe two still to come.

Attachment: Thurne (White) 1.pdf (Downloaded 6 times)



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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2016 12:08 am
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The Bankie
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File 2 of 3

Attachment: Thurne (White) 2.pdf (Downloaded 5 times)



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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2016 12:11 am
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The Bankie
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File 3 of 3

Somebody please download one of these and let me know if the scale is OK.

Regards
Jim

Attachment: Thurne (white) 3.pdf (Downloaded 6 times)



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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2016 11:22 am
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The Q
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Thurne wind pump is a regular occurrance in my life as we often sail / race down to there from Horning Sailing Club, have lunch at the Thurne Lion Pub ( they control the moorings on part of the dyke), and then race back. The Pub is a short walk down the dyke bank to the right. The boat shown is a Yeoman Keel boat 19ft long, which is the boat I normally race.




 I will be down loading the plans thanks....






Edited to add this site http://www.tournorfolk.co.uk/thurne.html which has lots of detail photos of the pump and area









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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2016 11:39 am
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MaxSouthOz
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A sweet little boat, Q.   :thumbs



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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2016 01:13 pm
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The Q
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The Boat isn't mine, I've managed to sail them for 15 years without owning one, I had even managed to be (World) Class Chairman for 4 years,.... Well we have one in Dubai but all the others as far as we know are in the UK.
Some links
http://www.yeomankinsman.org.uk/
http://www.horningsc.co.uk/
http://www.sfsc.co.uk/
http://www.threeriversrace.org.uk/index.php5?title=Main_Page
http://www.archivesenligne.fr/EN/en/chronology/item/1908-Yachting-on-the-Norfolk-Broads  The 1908 regatta!!
Some of the same boats and families (but not the same people) are in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzaay1fRpss last years (2015) regatta.
Should Bankie wish to visit Norfolk / The Broads again
If he visits the first weekend in July he would see the 3 Rivers race, up to 150 dinghies/ keelboats / sailing cruisers competing in a up to 24 hour race over 54 miles, under 3 bridges each way.
or if he visits the first week in August and sits on the grass by the Swan pub he can watch up to 150 boats competeing in our regatta, other regattas are available!!! on the broads you can sail everyday of the school holidays if you wish!!!
The tourists are often terrified on a hire boat navigating through that lot especially if it's their first day out.!!! ( just stick to the bank and go forward when there is a gap)
Other weekends (mostly Sundays) we could be round the cans outside the club ( with much reduced numbers) up on Black Horse Broads or on a down river to the pub and back


Anyway time to hand this takeover of his thread back to Bankie and hope for more Pumps /mills...


 



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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2016 01:24 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, Q.  I enjoyed the movie.  :cool:



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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2016 01:59 pm
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gastwo
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Thanks for the Pdfs Jim. I've downloaded successfully, but now the printers gone belly up...
I'll try and get permission to use the Domestic Authority's printer.

Shaun.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2016 02:05 pm
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The Bankie
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Q,
When SWMBO and I were down there in 2015 there was a tatty little sailboat moored in front of the mill. From information given to me by another local trader this belongs to the owner/landlord of the Lion and is considered a local eyesore. So if you can tow it away on one of your trips and let me know where to collect it you will be doing at least two people a greate favour:twisted:. It's a shame to let a nice little boat like that rot away.
If you want more info on the mills/pumps go to https://windenergymuseum.wordpress.com/our-history/ It's only a couple of miles up the road at Repps with Bastwick and it is a true revelation as to what can be achieved with a bit of a breeze and some canvas stuck to a wheel.

Thanks for the info regarding the race meets. If we get a chance to visit the area again we will put it to good use.

Regards
Jim



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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2016 03:54 pm
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The Q
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The landlord of the Lion has recently retired Sid was 70+



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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2016 06:25 pm
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The Bankie
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Good for him. Hope he's enjoying his boat.

Regards
Jim



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The Bankie
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Hi Shaun
Look Forward to hearing from you. I did set about producing a brick version but I was never satisfied with the bricks on the tapered section and they are a pain to reproduce as they all have to look vertical when the taper is horizontal. It's a particularly odd setof measurements but someday I'll get it right. The black tarred version is almost as bad as it needs two shades of black:shock::shock: to differentiate between bricks and mortar. Perhaps I should just concentrate on producing the "scoop" wheel to replace the centrifugal pump box.

Regards
Jim



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