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Power to lift out baseboard section (Bridge) - Baseboards. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Aug 31st, 2016 02:49 pm
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Ed
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Not sure if this should be in the electrical section or here, but I'm making some changes to Latton Fields which will involve including a small (approximately 3ft) lift out section and was wondering about power.

I could, as I have done before, just have a plug and socket on trailing leads to connect power (Bus) from the main baseboard(s) to the lift out section.

But being lazy, I was wondering if anyone had tried having some sort of contact strips on the end(s) of the lift out section which just press on contacts on the edge of the main boards when the section is put in place.

I found Doug's rather clever spring connections ...........

 http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=3303&forum_id=21&page=2#p57665

but I was wondering if anyone had just tried contact strips or plates similar to mentioned here (3rd post down by 'richhotrain')..

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/185238.aspx


Ed







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 Posted: Wed Aug 31st, 2016 05:01 pm
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Chubber
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Bearing in mind I am in the throes of a pre-prandial RLW-Look at these....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Sets-Magnetic-Bag-Clasps-Brass-Handbag-Clothing-Sewing-Buttons-14mm-/250901897389

Positive location, self aligning, and obviously very secure [I have tried to get into SWMBO's handbag]

Being metallic they may be 'solderable'?

Another thought has entered the space known as 'My Mind'.....The little pushy spring things inside a ceiling light lamp holder [complete with screw fitting for the wire] could be used with the above magnetty things to bear on a metal contact plate....

Doug


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 Posted: Wed Aug 31st, 2016 05:43 pm
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Ed
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Interesting Doug, but a bit small (1/2").

If you scroll down a bit it says the material is brass, but brass isn't magnetic :hmm



Thought someone might have used strips....






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 Posted: Wed Aug 31st, 2016 06:29 pm
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Chubber
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Ed, there is a neodymium magnet inside the brassed casing...'Strips' are fine, it's the positive repeatable alignment that's important, the catch on SWMBO's handbag is an absolutely self centering.

Doug



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 Posted: Wed Aug 31st, 2016 06:45 pm
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Ed
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Already been thinking about magnets for alignment Doug, as I'm using them for uncoupling.

Maybe a couple of recesses in the face of the lift off section and matching recesses in the baseboard face, with neodymiums (super) glued in :hmm


Meanwhile someone on another forum has suggested copper strip, so maybe a bit of both.


Ed



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 Posted: Wed Aug 31st, 2016 06:59 pm
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BCDR
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Hi Ed,

The issue with non-sprung and sprung contacts is the old "four level legs" one. How heavy is the lift-out section? Sprung ball-bearing types would probably be better.

I gave this some thought several years ago, and came up with sliding switches on the sides (the innards of Atlas DPDT switches) rather than contacts underneath.

Bulletproof way is to have an elevated or swinging section hard wired to the bus. Which is what I did first (elevated). You could of course wire the lift-out section as normal, just make sure the wiring is  long enough so that the section can be stored at the side (put some brackets on the side with hooks on the lift-out section) or underneath on a shelf. Which is what I ended up doing using coiled power cable (13 amp 16 gauge, plenty enough for my DCC system). You can get this for around £3-£12 in the UK (kettle cable or car electric socket cable). Make it really is portable by using a socket/plug connection to the bus wires.

Presumably this is to allow access into a room. If it's DCC it's worthwhile considering a star bus design if the total linear run is long (over 30-40 feet).

Nigel



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 Posted: Wed Aug 31st, 2016 08:53 pm
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Ed
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Hi Nigel

It's just a small non scenic section (bridge), to get the trains to the other side of the garage layout.

As I mentioned I could connect it with a pug and socket, but I'm just trying to see if I can make the bridge it's own switch by just removing and replacing it.


Ed



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 Posted: Wed Aug 31st, 2016 11:34 pm
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Silver Fox
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Ed I have copper plate under my bridge it works fine on it`s own the wieght of the bridge is sufficient to make the contact,just remember to leave a gap between the rails,or short outs  will occur(he said teaching gran to suck eggs):mutley
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen



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 Posted: Wed Aug 31st, 2016 11:48 pm
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Ed
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Brilliant Owen, sounds like it's a goer.

I've just ordered some brass strip as opposed to copper as I was a bit concerned about damage with the bridge being continually removed and replaced.

No problems with the strips needing frequent cleaning I assume and thanks for confirming the weight of the bridge should maintain the connection. I was a bit concerned about that and can't understand why, despite a lot of web searching, not many people seem to do it this way.

(Worst case scenario, I can use the cables with plug and socket I've already got.)



Ed





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 Posted: Sun Sep 4th, 2016 07:24 am
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katwigan
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I used some car cigarette lighter plugs, it's spring loaded, there is a pair of contacts inside the body to wire to, and they can be operated by the  wooden frame work or anything that is rested on them, with a couple of neatly fitting door 'bolts' to ensure it is in position, hasn't failed yet in several years
Kevan
Derrr , I use them to isolate the power to the tracks  either side of the lift up, head is a bit fuzzy this morning. Suffering windscreen wiper syndrome, Dumb guy dumb guy,K

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 Posted: Sun Sep 4th, 2016 11:57 am
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Ed
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That's another good tip, thanks Kevan :thumbs


Ed



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 Posted: Mon Sep 5th, 2016 11:33 am
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The Q
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The simplest system I've seen, used 4mm bannana plugs and sockets, FIXED to the underside of the bridge and to the inside of the bridge abutments.

The 4mm plugs and sockets are designed to carry power and reliable, I use them everyday at work, there are some just 3 inches away from this keyboard. 

A quick look at Amabay says that lot pictured would arrive at your door for £2:10 including postage.





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