Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Scratchbuilding. > Scratch building O scale rolling stock. To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno  
AuthorPost
MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

This is the first in a series of eight cars which will run on Port Elderley.

It is a 40 foot hopper car.



The base plate has been pierced and the two bulkheads attached.

jakesdad13
Full Member


Joined: Mon Nov 24th, 2014
Location: Chesterfield, United Kingdom
Posts: 593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Really looking forward to this one mate!


Pete.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Do you plan to make this a hopper with operating dump hatches?

Spurno
Owner/Webmaster.


Joined: Tue Aug 14th, 2012
Location: Torquay, United Kingdom
Posts: 4143
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

How did you do the diagonal cutouts at the end of the baseplate Max and what are they for?.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Well, on real hoppers that's how the frame is built at the ends. It saves on material without impacting structural strength overmuch.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Pete.   Me too.

No, Brendan.  The inside will contain the gubbins to make the couplers operate.

Brendan is right, Alan.  I drilled them out and then cleaned them up with a file.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

This next shot shows the spine being assembled.



I'm hoping that building it on the glass will result in a straight body.

Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

MaxSouthOz wrote:
I'm hoping that building it on the glass will result in a straight body.


My experience dictates that too close an association with the glass results in anything but a straight body......:oops:

Doug

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

:mutley

Petermac
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Nr Bergerac, France
Posts: 16833
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I recall that, sometime ago, when you built that huge locomotive from plasticard, you had problems with it warping over time Max.  I can't remember if that was that due to lamination or glue stresses ................:roll:

If the latter, have you now solved the problem ?  I'd hate to see all this excellent work end up looking like a banana ............

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Yes, Peter.

I've stopped using MEK and I am now using the two glues shown in the photo.

Tests so far have been positive.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Development is inching along.

This is a shot of the inside, showing the completed spine and the mechanism for opening the couplers.



I'm still waiting for the decoders to arrive from Western Australia and the couplers to arrive from Sydney.

I've tested the mechanism and it works correctly.

Marty
Enjoying the Journey


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia, Australia
Posts: 5993
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Memory wire with a spring return Max?
Marty

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

That's it, Marty.

Crude, but effective.  :lol:

Marty
Enjoying the Journey


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia, Australia
Posts: 5993
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Nice project...ingenious... this will be fun to watch... Good thing you've plenty of hair? :lol:
Marty

Petermac
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Nr Bergerac, France
Posts: 16833
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I know the Revell glue Max but what's the other one ?  Also, can you still get memory wire ?  I heard they'd stopped making it ..........:roll:

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Marty.  I shouldn't say this, but it all seems to be going to plan.


Peter, the other one is from Volmer GMBH Stuttgart.  It smells the same - like the old Tarzan's Grip.

Muscle wire is used in prosthetics and robotics - it comes in many thicknesses.

The one I'm using is 100µm in diameter and will pull 143 grams.

Available from http://www.jameco.com

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Well, Max, I hope you knocked on wood when you posted that last message.

The hopper is shaping up nicely. Uncoupling system seems quite interesting. A slight shame it prevents the hopper having working dump doors, although then again you probably don't have space for a dump spot anyway.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Brendan.

Nope.  They will just be running up and down the wharf.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

The decoders arrived today.



Still no couplers, though.  :roll:

Petermac
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Nr Bergerac, France
Posts: 16833
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I must have a re-read of your original thread on these Max.  I'm slightly older now and have picked up a bit more "know how" so it might sink in a bit deeper than it did last time.  In those days, "relay" meant taking stuff off a table then putting it back...............:oops:

It certainly looks very neat. :thumbs

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Peter.

And it works; surprisingly.  :lol:

It's a bit frustrating having to wait for the bits, but once the couplers arrive I should be able to get into production.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Inching along with the build.  I hadn't realised how much detail there is in one of these hoppers.

This is the A end.



It is square.  Just the parallax.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Yeah, hoppers are fairly detailed. But at least in O scale details are a bit less fiddly and you've got more options as far as means of adding rivet detail goes.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Rivets?    Nnoooooo  :shock:

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

Gotta 'ave wivets. Unless it's all welded (in which case you need some weld seams).

I used to punch all of mine (I even have a ModelSmith with an O punch and die gathering dust), these days I use the decals.

Nigel

jakesdad13
Full Member


Joined: Mon Nov 24th, 2014
Location: Chesterfield, United Kingdom
Posts: 593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Grandt Line, rivets nuts n bolts all different sizes, highly recommend them :thumbs.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Yes.  Windows and other stuff.

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Life's too short to drill holes and stick several hundred wivets on, a strip of wivet decals takes all of 5 seconds. Archer do a hopper car rivet set. Not sure whether windows come as a decal though. The mutins do. Plus they do micro-weld beads. Highly recommended range of products.

Nigel

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Well, you at least wouldn't have to drill holes with the method I was thinking of, which is gluing the heads of straight pins or tiny nails on and snipping the shanks off, filing what's left if needed. But it would still be a bit tedious.

I've also heard of a rivet-detail tool known as a riveting wheel, a few different companies (Micro Mark and Vintage Reproductions to name a couple) make them.

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Don't forget to count 'em :mutley


Ed

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote:

I've also heard of a rivet-detail tool known as a riveting wheel, a few different companies (Micro Mark and Vintage Reproductions to name a couple) make them.

Hi Brendan,
They are pounce wheels, notorious for wavy lines of rivets. Only work with thin brass or styrene.
Nigel

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Ah. Well, that works out for Max because he's making these out of styrene.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

After 4 weeks waiting for Brunel Hobbies to supply the couplers, I've cancelled my order and ordered them from P&D Hobby Shop in the US.

They will work out at about A$9.00 each once the postage is added to the exchange rate.

Anyway, I've done a bit more.  It's hard to light a white styrene model.



I'd better start working on the lid.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Oy, waiting forever for shipping is so aggravating... I once had that happen with an eHattons order (turned out to be because they still hadn't received a new stock of Hornby's Super Detailing Pack, so I had to drop that from the order)

jakesdad13
Full Member


Joined: Mon Nov 24th, 2014
Location: Chesterfield, United Kingdom
Posts: 593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Fantastic modelling there Max, well done!

Pete.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Pete.

Only the roof to go.

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

Ribs, didn't see that one coming. Looking very nice - I like the hopper chute mechanisms/levers. Are you adding a brake cylinder?

Nigel

 


MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Nigel.

The brake cylinder is in the photo in the 20th post, mounted above the floor.

col.stephens
Full Member
 

Joined: Tue Feb 7th, 2012
Location: Kent, United Kingdom
Posts: 2186
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Very nice Max. :thumbs

Terry

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Terry.

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Looks great Max :thumbs, but must be a very fiddly job with all the small bits of styrene.


Just wondering if you would have ever considered doing something similar in HO, or is it even possible in the smaller scales.


Ed



MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

It's not too bad, Ed.

I haven't tried any scratch building vehicles in HO - only buildings.

This is a confluence of several situations.  I started building in Ow5 because I got interested in a 1:50 boat and I thought a 1:48 layout would be good ( http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14066&forum_id=21 ), which you know about.

Then I realised that being one subject away from my Master Modeller, I could scratch build 8 pieces of rolling stock to qualifiy - and populate my new layout at the same time.

Otherwise I wouldn't have done it, but I'm quite glad that I have.

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

All I can say is well done Max, and you must have a lot of patience :thumbs


Ed

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

I had a look at post 20 before my posting my message. I see the air reservoirs upper left, what looks like the AB valve box in the middle, the brake cylinder would normally be to the side of the AB valve and almost in line with the hand brake chain to which it is connected via the vertical actuator lever (not always in line, as usual probably as many variations to the design as builders). Are you following a specific prototype with a combined AB valve/brake cylinder or is this a generic representation?

I'm in the middle of a project on railroad air braking systems, hence the questions. The plumbing on hopper cars is open to view, unlike regular boxcars where it's often pretty much out of sight, with in many cases the only obvious items being the hand wheel/gearbox and retainer valve.

Nigel

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi max,

I thought a couple of photo's for those who may be wondering what the brake component arrangement actually looks like (in HO) would be of interest. I had some photos to hand of one of my Kadee covered hoppers, mid-1950's design (Pullman Standard I think).

Four major components (from right to left): air cylinder (containing 2 reservoirs, one for emergency use); control valve (in this case an AB design); brake cylinder and vertical actuator lever; manual brake wheel and gearbox (connected to the bottom of the vertical actuator lever).

One other item that is quite noticeable is the air line for the brakes that runs along the side of the body.

Not sure I would want to scratch build this in HO, although all the brake parts are available in brass or white metal.

Nigel










MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Ed.

Thanks, Nigel.  Good reference photos.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

There are lots of little differences from the Atlas HO model I'm copying - much less detail, as well.

Thanks to your photos Nigel, I can add a lot of this stuff.

I'm not looking forward to airbrushing it.  :lol:

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I've printed and laminated your photos, Nigel.

Can you tell me, please - looking from the brake wheel end of the model, does the brake pipe run along the right or left side?

Thanks

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

All the way along one side, the cross-over is made under the platform. Brake rod runs down the middle. Should have some more photos, I will send when found.

Nigel

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Ah, but which side, Nigel?  :lol:  If I'm standing at the brake wheel end, facing the wagon, is it on the right or left?

I really appreciate these photos.  The Atlas HO wagon I'm copying doesn't have the detail that yours has.  I've fabricated the operating cylinder and the rest of the detail should be straight forward.

The ladder rungs are different, as well.

I'll post up a photo as soon as I'm able.

Thanks, again.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

OK  I've removed all of the steps so I can gain access, and fitted the new brake gear.

Notice that it has the new series larger brake cylinder.  :lol:






MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

. . . and one from the end.


Petermac
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Nr Bergerac, France
Posts: 16833
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Never mind "I've fitted new brake gear" - how did you make it Max ?  It looks a complex structure.

Oh and yes, it looks great. :thumbs

Spurno
Owner/Webmaster.


Joined: Tue Aug 14th, 2012
Location: Torquay, United Kingdom
Posts: 4143
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Petermac wrote: Never mind "I've fitted new brake gear" - how did you make it Max ?  It looks a complex structure.

Oh and yes, it looks great. :thumbs

My thoughts exactly,how did you make it.Great work by the way Max.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, guys.  It's a bit fraudulent, actually.

I just copied Nigel's excellent photos.

The booster is a piece of 5/16" styrene tube.  It should have been 1/4" but I didn't notice it until I'd glued it in.  It's a bit over scale.  The "pipes" are 1/16" brass rod and the "hose" is 1 mm solder.

The tapered cone and both tank ends are made from Knead It.  It's a two pack polymer putty which sets hard, but which you can drill.

I had to cut the steps away to get them in.  I've rebuilt them, but I haven't had time to take another photo.

Once the couplers arrive, I can add the cut lever and the MU hose.  I seem to spend my life waiting for stuff.

Anyway, I've started to build the roof.

Photos in due course. 

Cheers

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

That looks much better. More photo's of the hopper braking system below. It's no wonder these models cost $40 or more new. The trucks are off to show the details, I'm waiting for replacements (they are the sprung ones, new ones will be unsprung).

I have a Bowser hopper model (from a kit) which has no brake piping or lever detailing, just the reservoir, AB valve and air brake cylinder, $15.00.  Detail is expensive. On the roundtoit list (probably 50 cents of material and my time is free).

Nigel


Re what side? B end is on the right, airline pipe is at the bottom. Crossover is at the A end. Chains on end of brake levers would on the prototype link up with the brake shoe levers in the truck. Not modeled for obvious reasons in HO, you could probably do it in O. Just noticed the bottom left trap door frame needs a repair. I cut the levers from styrene sheet when adding brake gear to models that don't have it, and use staples for the guide bars. I believe the loops on the ends of the outside frame are for salvage lifting.




B end. Lever from air brake piston with connecting rod which runs through the bolster to the brake mechanism levers.




T'other end (the A end) showing airline pipe cross over above the coupler gear box.




A end from the top.




B end showing air brake lever running though bolster.




ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Max, your hopper looks excellent. Can't wait to see it completed.

I bet ya even with the new supplier you'll have the roof and paint done before the couplers show up though.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Nigel.

That's very helpful.  :thumbs

Thanks, Brendan.

I've ordered them from P&D Hobby Shop, where I got my drive train parts for my Weaver GP 38.

http://www.pdhobbyshop.com

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Not up to Nigel's standard, but I reckon I'll pass.





I notice that P&D have debited my card, so the couplers are on their way.  :thumbs

jakesdad13
Full Member


Joined: Mon Nov 24th, 2014
Location: Chesterfield, United Kingdom
Posts: 593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Top marks Max, proper job! 

Pete.

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

I doubt I could get anywhere near Kadee's tooling, what you have done so far is fantastic. That airline pipe is a really nice touch.

Nigel

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, guys.

Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Railway wagons? They're just big metal boxes on wheels, aren't they?

This lovely sort of work proves otherwise, and with a chum like Nigel on the camera to help a good partneship is born.

I've enjoyed this thread, as you have said, Max, the air-brush awaits!

Doug

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Doug.

Only seven to go.

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Chubber wrote: Railway wagons? They're just big metal boxes on wheels, aren't they?



Doug

Hi Doug,

Wishful thinking.

Next project for me is shown below. Wish I could have afforded the model, it's going to have to be a scratch/kit bash project. It's a sand car, used to deliver dried sand in 50 ton lots to line-side engine sanding equipment from the mid-1950's on. The Great Northern rebuilt some 50 ton Canton open ore hoppers into this starting in 1956.

Max, some nice brake equipment detailing in HO.

The following images are used by permission of the ebay trader sptebu (thanks Scott) who recently had this HO model on auction. Hand built in brass in Japan, note the opening hatches. It went for $307 US. Just a big metal box on wheels...

Nigel






MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

That is really nice, Nigel.  :thumbs

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Well, that one pictured isn't Nigel's, though I'm sure he wishes it was.

Nigel, it hopefully shouldn't be too big an ouch to do those sand hoppers. I know that short ore hoppers are common on evilBay and a few companies make roof walk stock and hatches.

Max, your hopper continues to look better and better.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Brendan.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Here's a bit more progress . . .





Now for the hatches.  :cool:

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

Really looking the part, lots of detail. The hatches. Cement? Grain? Sand? Oh, the suspense.....

One thing I've noticed on prototype photo's is that the sides of hoppers are rarely pristine (out of the manufacturing shop), they are normally dented/bowed here and there between the bracing struts. Plus the occasional repair plate as they get older. Any thoughts?

Nigel

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote: Well, that one pictured isn't Nigel's, though I'm sure he wishes it was.

Nigel, it hopefully shouldn't be too big an ouch to do those sand hoppers. I know that short ore hoppers are common on evilBay and a few companies make roof walk stock and hatches.

Max, your hopper continues to look better and better.
Hi Brendan,

I was a bit shocked at what it went for, it's a rare one (first one I've seen). That's more than my budget for freight/MOW stock for the year. Does look nice though. Something to aim for re detail.

One Accurail Canton ore hopper suitably modified (only source for these cars), one Bowser hopper for the roof parts (hatches), some Ajax walkway from Plano, decal kit (available), scrap styrene from the box, that should do it. The GN were quite good at recycling ore cars, I've found photo's of at least 4 variations used for sand. They would make a nice rake.

Max has shown what can be done from scratch, real inspiration. It's got my interest. Tempting, tempting.....especially with brass sides and dents and dings.

Nigel

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Nigel.

I know what you mean about wear and tear.  I like to build the model as it looks straight out of the factory and then leave time later to knock it about a bit.  I'm hoping to go for a look like the GP 38-2 I bashed from a Weaver - just road grime, for a start.


MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

The hatches are on.



To make the hatches, I used 1/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" steel washers and glued 6 mm wide strips of 1 mm styrene across them.



Then I filled the holes with Knead It™  Then I added 1/16" styrene for hinges and handles and  4 mm wide strips of 0.5 mm styrene across the top.



I can't do any more until the couplers arrive - possibly by the end of the week.

It's difficult to get the exposure right against the stark white of the styrene.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

While I'm waiting for the couplers, I've started a production line.



The glued styrene needs to be left overnight, so I look for something new to work on.

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Congratulations on picture of the week Max :thumbs

How many of these do you plan on making?



Ed

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Ed.  That's unexpected.  :lol:

There will be eight in all.  A hopper, a passenger carriage, an open wagon, a flat car and four box cars.

http://www.nmra.org/cars

My last Certificate for MMR

Silver Fox
Deceased Member


Joined: Sun Mar 23rd, 2014
Location: Ingleby Barwick, Stockton-on-tees, United Kingdom
Posts: 586
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

wow eight more weeksd of pic of the week ?? well deserved Max a lot of work in there :doublethumb
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Owen.  It could get a bit boring.  :lol:

Sol
A modelling Moderator.


Joined: Mon Nov 28th, 2011
Location: Evanston Gardens, South Aust, Australia
Posts: 3945
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have been fortunate in having seen the first one off the production line in the flesh and it certainly deserves not only the Picture of the Week but :pathead :thumbs

what it will be like when painted will be another aspect to drool over  :mrgreen:

Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

"To make the hatches, I used 1/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" steel washers and glued 6 mm wide strips of 1 mm styrene across them.
Then I filled the holes with Knead It™  Then I added 1/16" styrene for hinges and handles and  4 mm wide strips of 0.5 mm styrene across the top."


Love it, love it love it......

Real modelling!

Doug

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Doug.

That's why I'm loving O scale.  You have to make a lot of it yourself.

Just like the old days, eh?

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

The underside of my small passenger car.



Still waiting for the couplers.  :roll:

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I've been waylaid again.  My friend gave me an old model of a 19th century slaver, which is roughly O scale.



Both of the masts and the bowsprit were broken, so I've jury rigged a couple of forestays to hold it all in place while the repair glue sets up.  A couple of other minor repairs and she's ready.

The story is that the local hysterical society received a grant to restore her as a sail training ship, so she's on the slipway at the eastern end of the layout.

That way, I'm not under pressure to complete the rigging.

I should get away with it.  :lol:

I've made a cradle (which forced me to at least lay the track for the slipway.)



It's still in etch primer, but will later be weathered etc.

Now, of course the slipway will need a winch.  So, to the scrap box and with a couple of old gears, some plastic pipe, an old bottle cap and some styrene . . .



and here they are in context . . .



The removable lid allows me to add the winch cable and other trimmings.

Now somehow I have to cut the model free from the wooden cradle.  It's been seriously glued in.  :shock:

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

MaxSouthOz wrote: Now somehow I have to cut the model free from the wooden cradle.  It's been seriously glued in.  :shock:

Sounds like you've just done the easy bit first Max :mutley

Good luck.



Ed

Longchap
Full Member


Joined: Wed Mar 25th, 2015
Location:  Saumur, France
Posts: 1547
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Wow, a fine restoration job by the hysterical society and in a much cleaner and sweet smelling condition than in its working days! As Ed said, now for the tricky bit, fingers crossed!

Great inventiveness with the winch Max, the design helping the modelling, very clever. If the hysterical society ever fancy a new challenge, how about something like this winch I spotted in Portsmouth's naval dockyard on my last visit?



This one's currently under restoration, hence the couple of gallons of red oxide to hold it!

Bill :)
 

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Ed.  I'm thinking of running a coping saw under it.

Thanks, Bill.  Thanks for the photo.  It might be a trifle large for my job.  :lol:

I'll give them a call and see how much they want for it!  :cool:

Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

How lovely!

I have a copy of the print below, showing such a trolley, very nicely modelled, Max.

http://www.russellflint.net/russellflint-devonportdockyard.html

I actually worked around that slipway when I/C of a small-craft electrical unit in D'Port yard.

The capstan engine above was one of many in naval yards, usually in a big pit with just the winding drum showing and used to pull ships into and out of flooded dry docks, and indeed to manoeuvre the caissons once they were floated out.

The d'yard L.P. steam main that them.

Doug

Last edited on Thu Mar 31st, 2016 02:18 am by Chubber

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Doug.

The cradle is modelled on one we had where I used to keep my Van der Stadt 27 footer.

Those were the days.  Working under the hull, scraping all the undergrowth off and then painting on the anti-fouling.  :lol:

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I've managed to cut the boat off its stand (and repair the damage).  :lol:



The boat is safe in its cradle and I don't have to explain to visitors where the scene goes from here.

Now, back to building cars.  :cool:

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Wagon number two is ready for painting.



I don't know anything about it, other than it's nice and short.  I copied an HO model I have.

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Did the couplers turn up Max ?

Ed

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Yes, Ed.

I've only installed the coupler boxes as I don't want to get paint on the actual couplers when I paint the cars.

I still have to add the brake hoses, as well.

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Make a few extra Max, you could have a nice little business with the price of O gauge rolling stock :lol:

Ed

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

:lol:  I can't believe how slow it is, Ed.

I reckon I'm working for about 20 cents an hour.

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

Looks like a high-sided tapered ore car. And very nice too. Coupler levers?

Nigel

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Nigel.

There aren't any cut levers showing on the model I'm working from.

I might have to do some more research and go through and do all of them.

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

If you're using an HO model not many have coupler cut levers (bars) as they are pretty fragile in plastic.

Normally found on the LHS, although some cars have one on each side. Have a look at http://www.planomodelproducts.com/coupbar_scq.html for some examples (model and real). Under, over, trombones even. Easy enough to fabricate from a bit of channel and some P/B or brass wire. Bet you could have them working in O!

Nigel

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Ha ha.  Thanks Nigel - not sure I will be able to get them working.

I can't believe that none of the manufacturers has attempted such an obtrusive device.

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

Just checked my RTR freight cars - no cut levers (Atlas, Athearn, Walthers, MTH). In contrast most of the kit manufacturers supply them (Athearn blue box and Roundhouse excepted). All of them are plastic with varying degrees of fragility, and no good for club layouts. As you say, it's a pretty obvious detail, but it's easily added using brass or P/B wire and some right angle channel. Same goes for air lines and steam lines. Pretty obvious, especially if the coupler magnetic trip pins are removed.

Nigel

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Yes, Nigel.  I've been on the O gauge forum and got some pretty good reference photos.

Yesterday I was at my friend's place, who runs On3 olde worlde narrow gauge.  Close inspection of his stock shows cut levers.

Have a look at his layout.  It makes me want to stick my head in the oven - pointless, as it's electric, I know.  :lol:

http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Peter%20Jackson%202/indexb.html

Dunno why the link has decided not to work.  :twisted:

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Layouts_NG.html

Scroll down to Peter Jackson MMR




BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

That's some seriously great modeling. I keep feeling the tug of O-narrow gauge, keeps getting stronger, radio-control, battery power, garden layout. I have a Bagnall quarry 0-4-0 white metal kit that I didn't get around to building somewhere.....plus all that Bachmann On30 stock is cheap and reliable. And I've always fancied a go at an 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 Sentinel.

I'm gussying up some old Athearn Blue Box freight cars at the moment, when I've done adding the cut levers and air lines I'll post some photo's. Be a darn site easier in O scale!

Nigel


MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I'm looking forward to seeing that, Nigel.   :thumbs

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Anyway, I've painted the first car - the hopper . . .



It's a bit green, but the weathering powders will tone that down.

It's ready for the decals and weathering.

I connected up the decoder and the couplers open and close - UNTIL I TRIED TO CHANGE ADDRESS.

Now nothing works.  I've yet to buy something from DCC Concepts which doesn't give me grief!

I can't remember the work around I used last time.

This is the same problem I had with these DCC Concepts decoders.  I try to support local businesses, but every time I try, they let me down.

Anyway, I've written to their so called tech support.  Who knows if they will get back to me

Sol
A modelling Moderator.


Joined: Mon Nov 28th, 2011
Location: Evanston Gardens, South Aust, Australia
Posts: 3945
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I guess the default address is 3? do you need a motor across programming track to give a load so the decoder will change address?

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

It's a function only decoder, Sol so it shouldn't need a load.

However, I did try a 10 Ohm resistor across the rails.  Same result.

I remember last time I used these decoders, I had the Devil of a time trying to change addresses.

Stupid me.  I should have bought a quality decoder.  :roll:

Sol
A modelling Moderator.


Joined: Mon Nov 28th, 2011
Location: Evanston Gardens, South Aust, Australia
Posts: 3945
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

A 10 ohm resistor across rails is not a load on the decoder but I see what you mean by a function decoder.

Iansa
Member


Joined: Sat Aug 16th, 2008
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 450
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Some function only decoders did need a 100ohm resistor in one of the function wires.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Yep.  Hasn't helped, Ian.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Also tried F7  >  CV 17 = 192 and  CV 18 = 11   For address 11.

nuffink.

Iansa
Member


Joined: Sat Aug 16th, 2008
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 450
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have TCS function only decoders that show same symptoms as Max's DCCconcepts decoders.

 I have overcome the problem by putting a tail light globe between green & blue wires on decoder.

 Also, putting a loco in tandem on program track (F8 on lenz) with F-only decoder also works.

 Change address on loco back after.

 Don't know why, but a motor, globe or resistor across program track rails does not work.

 Cheers

 ian

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Looks like the Lenz doesn't like DCC Concepts decoders.  :twisted:

I just took a 170 km round trip to Sol's place.

He popped it on the NCE and programmed it instantly.

I'll never say anything bad about NCE again.  :oops:

I have seven more to programme - that's 1190 km!

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

NCE looking hopper.

Nigel

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

That hopper looks even better painted than it did in the raw. Shame about the decoders giving you grief trying to program them.

Speaking of coupler cut bars, maybe that'll be the next trendy upgrade: operating, magnetically-actuated coupler cut bars to allow simple remote uncoupling in HO and maybe N without the faux-brake line trip pins (since people are whining about those now)

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Brendan.  Protocraft make O scale cut levers which operate the couplers.  I guess I could have employed the memory wire to actuate them, but I went for the cotton instead.

Funny how it sometimes comes back to a piece of string.  :lol:

Iansa
Member


Joined: Sat Aug 16th, 2008
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 450
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Sounds like the same situation that once existed between Digitrax decoders and Lenz.

 It was not the fault of system, Digitrax decoders were not compatible with some systems.

 I believe situation has been rectified with more modern  D decoders.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Next one . . .



Once again, no decals and/or weathering.

The couplers open and close on address 3.  I've bought an auto stop/tail lamp to give Ian's suggestion a go.

Interestingly, I found an email this morning from Peter at DCC Concepts saying that he is going to borrow a Lenz system and see if he can figure out how to change the address.

It's a public holiday here today, so I don't expect any results until maybe tomorrow.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Underneath the flat car . . .


ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Looks to be a good, sturdy job with a nicely-detailed brake system.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Brendan.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Here's the flat car with a load of pipes . . .



I've still got to paint the strapping and the wooden bearers.

Here it is undressed, showing the gubbins wot works the couplers . . .



It can sit with the others while I finish the combine.

Sol
A modelling Moderator.


Joined: Mon Nov 28th, 2011
Location: Evanston Gardens, South Aust, Australia
Posts: 3945
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

A neat way of hiding the works then ...
I reckon you can build those in your sleep now !!

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

It feels like it!  :mutley

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

In the absence of 7mm robots, I reckon that's about the most realistic way of operating couplings Max.

With the load on, nobody would know how they're working (unless you told 'em). :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs


Ed

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Ed.

allan downes
Deceased Member
 

Joined: Thu Feb 28th, 2013
Location: Immingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2025
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

MaxSouthOz wrote: Here's the flat car with a load of pipes . . .



I've still got to paint the strapping and the wooden bearers.

Here it is undressed, showing the gubbins wot works the couplers . . .



It can sit with the others while I finish the combine.

 

Engineering perfection in miniature.

Nice one Max.

Allan.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Allan.

Silver Fox
Deceased Member


Joined: Sun Mar 23rd, 2014
Location: Ingleby Barwick, Stockton-on-tees, United Kingdom
Posts: 586
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Maxyou are surpassing your self,great stuff,when is the demo tape to be released?
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Owen.

Christmas time, I'd say.  :lol:

allan downes
Deceased Member
 

Joined: Thu Feb 28th, 2013
Location: Immingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2025
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Can't wait Max.

Will there be any Shiela's in it !

Last edited on Mon May 2nd, 2016 11:25 pm by allan downes

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

:mutley  dunno Mate.  It's a good thought, but.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Here's a not very good shot of the obligatory passenger car . . .



The "Stay Alive" DCC Concepts decoders - don't.

The lights still flicker.  Still, what can you expect from an A$22.20 decoder?   But it doesn't do what it says on the tin.

Why am I surprised?

The red lights change from the front to the back using the Direction button.

Just the window glazing to go.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Well, you could always rig the light power to a watch battery.

The coach looks pretty swell, it turned out rather nicely.

Last edited on Sun May 8th, 2016 08:53 am by ZeldaTheSwordsman

allan downes
Deceased Member
 

Joined: Thu Feb 28th, 2013
Location: Immingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2025
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Here's me can't put a Slaters waggon kit together and there's Max scratchbuilding O Gauge coaches to die for.

T'ain't fair !

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Brendan.

Thanks, Allan.  You're too kind.  :cool:

Silver Fox
Deceased Member


Joined: Sun Mar 23rd, 2014
Location: Ingleby Barwick, Stockton-on-tees, United Kingdom
Posts: 586
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

that is a little beauty,wow,
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Owen.

The photo doesn't do it justice.   :lol:

allan downes
Deceased Member
 

Joined: Thu Feb 28th, 2013
Location: Immingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2025
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Photo's of my bald patch likewise.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

:mutley

Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Ed wrote: In the absence of 7mm robots, I reckon that's about the most realistic way of operating couplings Max.

With the load on, nobody would know how they're working (unless you told 'em). :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs


Ed



We'll keep it our little secret then, Ed...

Max, your chum Peter Jackson certainly has a gift. Some nice wood he's got access to too, another plus for O Scale is that real grained hardwood looks the part, but after your jetty work you know well enough, very classy.

Doug

Last edited on Mon May 9th, 2016 10:06 pm by Chubber

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Doug.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

So, I'm starting on the four boxcars which will complete the set.

As the styrene glue takes 12 hours minimum to set up completely, I'm doing it in a production line.



From the right, the jig I've made up to assemble the main framework, which is made from 3 mm styrene.  It has to be completely straight and rigid.  The space between the stiffeners is wide enough to accommodate the relays, resistors and the decoders.

On the left I have added the mountings for the muscle wire and drilled the holes for the pick up wires, the bogie mounting screws and the angled ports for the cotton thread.

The coupler pockets have been added, together with their 0.5 mm spacers which set the coupler height.



I've also added the corrugated floor and the centre brace, and marked the positions of the longitudinal straps which represent the joists.

Hopefully the production line will save me a bit of build time.

allan downes
Deceased Member
 

Joined: Thu Feb 28th, 2013
Location: Immingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2025
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

 

Max Magic. No other word for it.

Allan

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

:thumbs

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

This is just a photo for my reference.



I need to make three more like this.

allan downes
Deceased Member
 

Joined: Thu Feb 28th, 2013
Location: Immingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2025
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Exquisite x 3

Last edited on Wed May 11th, 2016 03:48 pm by allan downes

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Now there's an adjective I didn't expect.

Thanks, Allan.   :cool:

allan downes
Deceased Member
 

Joined: Thu Feb 28th, 2013
Location: Immingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2025
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

'Adjective'

What's one of dem ?

And do they come in packs of three or by the length ?

 

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Naw, adjectives come as part of this jumbo-size bulk pack called a dictionary.

And Max, you might not have expected it but it fits.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

:lol:

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Brendan.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I've finally finished one . . . 



The carriage is complete with windows.

I only have to do the decals on the other three and weather them and I'm half way!

I can actually do a bit of shunting. 

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I think I've fixed the DCC Concepts decoder.

I left it on the layout for an hour.  I've heard that these capacitors sometimes need a bit of charge time first up.

Anyway, it seems to be working.  Fingers crossed.

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Looks good Max :thumbs


How have you managed to disguise the 'gubbins' inside for the couplings, can't see anything in the picture.



Ed

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Ed.

I've coated the window panes with tissue paper - glued on with CA.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, Ed.

I've coated the window panes with tissue paper - glued on with CA.
A classic solution. Are you going to draw silhouettes on the inner face of the paper with a felt-tip or anything like that?

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Nice effect :thumbs



Ed

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

No, Brendan.  The lights will be off when it's being shunted.  Which will be all of the time.

I only connected them up to the decoder to get extra points when it's assessed.


Thanks, Ed.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Fair enough, Max.

Longchap
Full Member


Joined: Wed Mar 25th, 2015
Location:  Saumur, France
Posts: 1547
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Beginning to look like a yard Max. You must be pleased. Great stuff!

Bill

 

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Bill.  I am.

emmess
Full Member


Joined: Mon Jul 15th, 2013
Location: Burley In Wharfedale, United Kingdom
Posts: 399
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Looking good. I've been enjoying following this build. Your patience (how do you manage it!?) is really paying off.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Mike.  Not sure about the patience.  :lol:

allan downes
Deceased Member
 

Joined: Thu Feb 28th, 2013
Location: Immingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2025
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, Mike.  Not sure about the patience.  :lol:


It's IMpatience that gets the job done !

Patience is when the missus takes six months to knit a jumper that doesn't fit and impatience is when I buy one at Argos the same day that does !

Last edited on Fri May 13th, 2016 04:53 pm by

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

:mutley

Marty
Enjoying the Journey


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia, Australia
Posts: 5993
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Clever work on the flat car with its load of pipes Max!

Cheers
Marty

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Marty.

I wonder how I would do a tanker car . . .  :hmm

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

What do you see as the main obstacle(s) to doing a tank car?

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote: What do you see as the main obstacle(s) to doing a tank car?

It would leak when he put all the uncoupling gubbins inside it :mutley



Ed

allan downes
Deceased Member
 

Joined: Thu Feb 28th, 2013
Location: Immingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2025
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote: What do you see as the main obstacle(s) to doing a tank car?
The semi domed ends ?

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

No.  The ends are easy, Allan.  I've done some before using Plastibond and shaping it with a file.

Ed's right.  Fitting all of the gubbins which work the couplers, inside.

It's not an issue at the moment, as I have enough to pass the AP assessment; but it will prey on my mind, I'm sure.  :lol:

Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Max, these 'assessments' I understand [correctly?] are part of a series of tests of the standard of your railway modelling.

Would you explain a little further, please?

Who assesses you? Who is qualified to do so?

Doug

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Doug

First, a description of the Achievement Program.

http://www.nmra.org/education/achievement-program

You can see from the descriptions, there are good guidelines for both myself and the assessors.

So long as the assessors are trusted senior members it's fairly simple for them to follow the guidelines.

The Australasian Region Manager of the Program is a very experienced modeller and a Master Modeller himself.  In each Division he has Assistants who assess the candidates and then submit their reports to him.   The reports are backed up by documentation and photographs; often also drawings and computer files.

Once the Regional Manager is satisfied that the candidate has met the requirements for each category, he issues a Certificate.

Once the candidate has achieved seven of the eleven available Certificates, the Regional Manager issues the writ and the candidate becomes a Master Modeller. 

You can see from the website that the subjects are arranged in groups and candidates must have qualified in a spread of subjects across all of the groups.

The Program has been running since the 1950's and so far there are only about six hundred and something MMRs worldwide; so it is not easy to do.

I will complete my sixth Certificate in June this year and the scratch building of the cars will make seven.

Sol is on six and should complete his seventh soon as well.

I have been working on the program for about 10 years.  I achieved my first Certificate in 2012.

There is also an entry level Certificate called the Golden Spike.  You can read about it on the website.  I achieved mine last year when I realised that I had enough points.

I also was presented with the Hopkins Bone award in 2013 for services to the NMRA and the modelling fraternity.  Sol has been presented with the President's Award along similar lines.

It's a bit stressful at times, but at the end of the day it's fun to pit yourself against the benchmarks.

Just another way to enjoy the hobby.  I hope that helps make it a bit clearer.

Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thank you for that, Max, I'm sure there are plenty of other people as ignorant of the matter as myself [well, maybe not 'plenty']who will be interested to know but didn't want to ask the question!

Cheers,

Doug

ghewitt94
Full Member
 

Joined: Sat Jul 11th, 2015
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 21
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Max

Great inspiration and the information on the NMRA site is great too. Interestingly a lot of us lesser skilled mortals would probably be able to qualify for the golden spike grade and so begin our journey.

Good food for thought. Thank you.

George

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, George.

gormo
Full Member


Joined: Fri Dec 21st, 2012
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2073
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

G`day Max,

Just been catching up with your scratch building here.

You`re setting the bar very, very high there mate.......absolutely beautiful work.:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

I`m just going out to lock my shed, throw the key away.....and burn it to the ground .......:mutley:mutley

:cheers  Gormo

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks.

Don't do that, Gormo.

  Yours looks mighty fine to me.  :thumbs

I've got a friend, Peter Jackson who makes me feel like that about my layout every time I go for an operating session.

Check this out . . .

http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Peter%20Jackson%202/index.html 

I came home very depressed after my first visit.

Sol
A modelling Moderator.


Joined: Mon Nov 28th, 2011
Location: Evanston Gardens, South Aust, Australia
Posts: 3945
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

MaxSouthOz wrote: 

I came home very depressed after my first visit.

I come home depressed after any visit to Peter Jackson's layout :oops:

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

This weekend I have made a start on the box cars.


Dorsetmike
Save oil - bring back steam


Joined: Mon Feb 18th, 2013
Location: BOURNEMOUTH, United Kingdom
Posts: 1485
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Getting a "Not Found" message  to that link Max.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Yes, Mike.  With some browsers you have to delete the tails to get to where it opens and then work your way forward again.

If I click on it from here, I get Not Found.

If I do it from the email response, it opens.  Go figure.

It's probably better that you don't see it - it's quite depressing.   :mutley

gormo
Full Member


Joined: Fri Dec 21st, 2012
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2073
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Me too Max.....I get the error.....Warning, Warning.....Will Robinson !!!!!!!

:cheers  Gormo

PS......Got it!!!!..........try this

http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Peter%20Jackson%202/target0.html

Last edited on Sun May 22nd, 2016 05:27 pm by gormo

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

OK  Let's try this . . .

http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Layouts_NG.html

Scroll down to Peter Jackson MMR  . . .

Then click on [See the Layout]    It's at the bottom.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Seems to be working . . .

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Er.  So does your link, Gormo.  :oops:

ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

An excellent boxcar, Max. Can't wait to see it and its kin completed and painted

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Brendan.  I also.  (Me too).   :lol:

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

The first of the box cars is going to be a hazmat car.

Yellow doesn't cover the etch primer too well, so lots of coats . . .


ZeldaTheSwordsman
Madman


Joined: Fri Jan 15th, 2016
Location: Pomona, California USA
Posts: 582
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Ah yes, the joys of trying to paint nonporous materials yellow.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

And a patch on one side ran, so it had to be rubbed off and done again.

The only way to successfully paint that area was to lie it on its side.

All done.

Campaman
Full Member


Joined: Sun Jan 1st, 2012
Location: Market Harborough, United Kingdom
Posts: 662
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Is the painting done by airbrush or rattle can?

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Tamiya rattle can, Andy.

I warm the can and shake it for a minute before each application.  It's only the yellow that's challenged me.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

The green one turned out OK.



Excuse the detritus.  :lol:

Campaman
Full Member


Joined: Sun Jan 1st, 2012
Location: Market Harborough, United Kingdom
Posts: 662
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I will have to look out for some of the Tamiya cans as yellow is a real pain to get coverage with the airbrush, and its needed a lot with the yellow ends of the UK diesel locos.

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Rather than grey primer the Tamiya fine white surface primer seems to be better for a yellow top coat. Still takes a minimum of 3 coats though. Bonus is rivet detail is preserved. I used to use yellow zinc primer (automobile anti-rust) but a lot of top coats didn't like it and rivets tended to become rounded hills.

Nigel

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Tamiya fine white primer.  Thanks, Nigel.  I'll have a look in their cage.  (All spray cans are kept under lock and key here).

Although I don't have plans for another yellow car at this stage. 

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

The boxes are all done.



Now for the decalling, matt finishing, fitting out and weathering.

Not much if you say it quickly.  :lol:

Silver Fox
Deceased Member


Joined: Sun Mar 23rd, 2014
Location: Ingleby Barwick, Stockton-on-tees, United Kingdom
Posts: 586
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

that is one colourful train Max,more power to your elbow
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Owen.  It won't be so gaudy once it's dullcoated and weathered.  :lol:

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

These cars have been dull coated and lightly weathered.



Unfortunately, the weathering paint doesn't show up in the photos. 

The three box cars in the background are waiting for the next shipment of memory wire to arrive. 

Ed
Full Member


Joined: Tue Jan 29th, 2013
Location: West Anglia Main Line, United Kingdom
Posts: 3746
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

They look the dog's doo dahs Max (if a little bright) :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs


Ed

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Ed.  In this case, the camera has lied.  :lol:

Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4593
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Luffly!

Opening this on my tablet I had my thumb over the 'wall' at bottom right and had one of those 'Is it a photo?'moments.

Doug

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Doug.

Silver Fox
Deceased Member


Joined: Sun Mar 23rd, 2014
Location: Ingleby Barwick, Stockton-on-tees, United Kingdom
Posts: 586
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Wow Max you have been busy,quite a nice collection there,look good too,
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Owen.  We're getting there.

BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3149
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max,

Nice looking circus.

Nigel

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Nigel.

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Here is a link with more details on how I made the couplers . . .

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14398&forum_id=10&jump_to=261224#p261224

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

So here is the motley crew, ready for inspection . . .



I have done some fettling on the box cars.  The Kadee couplers needed quite a bit of work with a file to get them to slide together easily.  O scale is different.  I also put a smear of Vaseline on the faces of the jaws.

The other four will get tidied up in the next few days.

It's obvious now that I will only be able to run four wagons at a time during the operating sessions, due to size restrictions.

I had a bit of a play with it this afternoon.  It was quite fun.

Silver Fox
Deceased Member


Joined: Sun Mar 23rd, 2014
Location: Ingleby Barwick, Stockton-on-tees, United Kingdom
Posts: 586
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

looks great,Max,bet you had a lotof fun too,
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Owen.

Yes, and more to come.  :cool:

Marty
Enjoying the Journey


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia, Australia
Posts: 5993
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

You're happy with the operation then? they look great and if they work as advertised you must be very pleased!

Marty

MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12343
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks, Marty.

Yes.  It can still be improved a bit, but I'm confident going forward.  :lol:


                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.