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Scratch building O scale rolling stock. - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2016 01:14 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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This is the first in a series of eight cars which will run on Port Elderley.

It is a 40 foot hopper car.



The base plate has been pierced and the two bulkheads attached.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2016 05:54 pm
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Really looking forward to this one mate!


Pete.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2016 08:51 pm
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Do you plan to make this a hopper with operating dump hatches?



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 Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2016 09:35 pm
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How did you do the diagonal cutouts at the end of the baseplate Max and what are they for?.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2016 10:58 pm
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Well, on real hoppers that's how the frame is built at the ends. It saves on material without impacting structural strength overmuch.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2016 12:22 am
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Thanks, Pete.   Me too.

No, Brendan.  The inside will contain the gubbins to make the couplers operate.

Brendan is right, Alan.  I drilled them out and then cleaned them up with a file.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2016 10:06 am
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This next shot shows the spine being assembled.



I'm hoping that building it on the glass will result in a straight body.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2016 04:22 pm
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MaxSouthOz wrote:
I'm hoping that building it on the glass will result in a straight body.


My experience dictates that too close an association with the glass results in anything but a straight body......:oops:

Doug



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 Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2016 04:53 pm
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:mutley



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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2016 02:56 am
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I recall that, sometime ago, when you built that huge locomotive from plasticard, you had problems with it warping over time Max.  I can't remember if that was that due to lamination or glue stresses ................:roll:

If the latter, have you now solved the problem ?  I'd hate to see all this excellent work end up looking like a banana ............



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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2016 07:04 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Yes, Peter.

I've stopped using MEK and I am now using the two glues shown in the photo.

Tests so far have been positive.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2016 08:03 am
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Development is inching along.

This is a shot of the inside, showing the completed spine and the mechanism for opening the couplers.



I'm still waiting for the decoders to arrive from Western Australia and the couplers to arrive from Sydney.

I've tested the mechanism and it works correctly.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2016 08:19 am
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Memory wire with a spring return Max?
Marty



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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2016 08:28 am
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MaxSouthOz
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That's it, Marty.

Crude, but effective.  :lol:



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Nice project...ingenious... this will be fun to watch... Good thing you've plenty of hair? :lol:
Marty



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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2016 12:41 pm
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I know the Revell glue Max but what's the other one ?  Also, can you still get memory wire ?  I heard they'd stopped making it ..........:roll:



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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2016 01:22 pm
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Thanks, Marty.  I shouldn't say this, but it all seems to be going to plan.


Peter, the other one is from Volmer GMBH Stuttgart.  It smells the same - like the old Tarzan's Grip.

Muscle wire is used in prosthetics and robotics - it comes in many thicknesses.

The one I'm using is 100µm in diameter and will pull 143 grams.

Available from http://www.jameco.com



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Well, Max, I hope you knocked on wood when you posted that last message.

The hopper is shaping up nicely. Uncoupling system seems quite interesting. A slight shame it prevents the hopper having working dump doors, although then again you probably don't have space for a dump spot anyway.



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Thanks, Brendan.

Nope.  They will just be running up and down the wharf.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 15th, 2016 11:01 am
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MaxSouthOz
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The decoders arrived today.



Still no couplers, though.  :roll:



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 Posted: Mon Feb 15th, 2016 11:39 am
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I must have a re-read of your original thread on these Max.  I'm slightly older now and have picked up a bit more "know how" so it might sink in a bit deeper than it did last time.  In those days, "relay" meant taking stuff off a table then putting it back...............:oops:

It certainly looks very neat. :thumbs



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Thanks, Peter.

And it works; surprisingly.  :lol:

It's a bit frustrating having to wait for the bits, but once the couplers arrive I should be able to get into production.



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 Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2016 12:17 am
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Inching along with the build.  I hadn't realised how much detail there is in one of these hoppers.

This is the A end.



It is square.  Just the parallax.



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 Posted: Fri Feb 26th, 2016 06:23 am
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Yeah, hoppers are fairly detailed. But at least in O scale details are a bit less fiddly and you've got more options as far as means of adding rivet detail goes.



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Rivets?    Nnoooooo  :shock:



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Hi Max,

Gotta 'ave wivets. Unless it's all welded (in which case you need some weld seams).

I used to punch all of mine (I even have a ModelSmith with an O punch and die gathering dust), these days I use the decals.

Nigel



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 Posted: Sat Feb 27th, 2016 03:08 am
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Grandt Line, rivets nuts n bolts all different sizes, highly recommend them :thumbs.



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MaxSouthOz
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Yes.  Windows and other stuff.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 27th, 2016 05:33 am
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BCDR
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Life's too short to drill holes and stick several hundred wivets on, a strip of wivet decals takes all of 5 seconds. Archer do a hopper car rivet set. Not sure whether windows come as a decal though. The mutins do. Plus they do micro-weld beads. Highly recommended range of products.

Nigel



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 Posted: Sat Feb 27th, 2016 05:47 am
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Well, you at least wouldn't have to drill holes with the method I was thinking of, which is gluing the heads of straight pins or tiny nails on and snipping the shanks off, filing what's left if needed. But it would still be a bit tedious.

I've also heard of a rivet-detail tool known as a riveting wheel, a few different companies (Micro Mark and Vintage Reproductions to name a couple) make them.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 27th, 2016 11:22 am
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Don't forget to count 'em :mutley


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ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote:

I've also heard of a rivet-detail tool known as a riveting wheel, a few different companies (Micro Mark and Vintage Reproductions to name a couple) make them.

Hi Brendan,
They are pounce wheels, notorious for wavy lines of rivets. Only work with thin brass or styrene.
Nigel



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 Posted: Sun Feb 28th, 2016 11:46 pm
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Ah. Well, that works out for Max because he's making these out of styrene.



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After 4 weeks waiting for Brunel Hobbies to supply the couplers, I've cancelled my order and ordered them from P&D Hobby Shop in the US.

They will work out at about A$9.00 each once the postage is added to the exchange rate.

Anyway, I've done a bit more.  It's hard to light a white styrene model.



I'd better start working on the lid.



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Oy, waiting forever for shipping is so aggravating... I once had that happen with an eHattons order (turned out to be because they still hadn't received a new stock of Hornby's Super Detailing Pack, so I had to drop that from the order)



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Fantastic modelling there Max, well done!

Pete.



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MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, Pete.

Only the roof to go.



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Hi Max,

Ribs, didn't see that one coming. Looking very nice - I like the hopper chute mechanisms/levers. Are you adding a brake cylinder?

Nigel

 




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 Posted: Fri Mar 4th, 2016 11:49 pm
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Thanks, Nigel.

The brake cylinder is in the photo in the 20th post, mounted above the floor.



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Very nice Max. :thumbs

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Thanks, Terry.



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Looks great Max :thumbs, but must be a very fiddly job with all the small bits of styrene.


Just wondering if you would have ever considered doing something similar in HO, or is it even possible in the smaller scales.


Ed





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MaxSouthOz
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It's not too bad, Ed.

I haven't tried any scratch building vehicles in HO - only buildings.

This is a confluence of several situations.  I started building in Ow5 because I got interested in a 1:50 boat and I thought a 1:48 layout would be good ( http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14066&forum_id=21 ), which you know about.

Then I realised that being one subject away from my Master Modeller, I could scratch build 8 pieces of rolling stock to qualifiy - and populate my new layout at the same time.

Otherwise I wouldn't have done it, but I'm quite glad that I have.



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All I can say is well done Max, and you must have a lot of patience :thumbs


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Hi Max,

I had a look at post 20 before my posting my message. I see the air reservoirs upper left, what looks like the AB valve box in the middle, the brake cylinder would normally be to the side of the AB valve and almost in line with the hand brake chain to which it is connected via the vertical actuator lever (not always in line, as usual probably as many variations to the design as builders). Are you following a specific prototype with a combined AB valve/brake cylinder or is this a generic representation?

I'm in the middle of a project on railroad air braking systems, hence the questions. The plumbing on hopper cars is open to view, unlike regular boxcars where it's often pretty much out of sight, with in many cases the only obvious items being the hand wheel/gearbox and retainer valve.

Nigel



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Hi max,

I thought a couple of photo's for those who may be wondering what the brake component arrangement actually looks like (in HO) would be of interest. I had some photos to hand of one of my Kadee covered hoppers, mid-1950's design (Pullman Standard I think).

Four major components (from right to left): air cylinder (containing 2 reservoirs, one for emergency use); control valve (in this case an AB design); brake cylinder and vertical actuator lever; manual brake wheel and gearbox (connected to the bottom of the vertical actuator lever).

One other item that is quite noticeable is the air line for the brakes that runs along the side of the body.

Not sure I would want to scratch build this in HO, although all the brake parts are available in brass or white metal.

Nigel












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Thanks, Ed.

Thanks, Nigel.  Good reference photos.



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There are lots of little differences from the Atlas HO model I'm copying - much less detail, as well.

Thanks to your photos Nigel, I can add a lot of this stuff.

I'm not looking forward to airbrushing it.  :lol:



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I've printed and laminated your photos, Nigel.

Can you tell me, please - looking from the brake wheel end of the model, does the brake pipe run along the right or left side?

Thanks



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Hi Max,

All the way along one side, the cross-over is made under the platform. Brake rod runs down the middle. Should have some more photos, I will send when found.

Nigel



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Ah, but which side, Nigel?  :lol:  If I'm standing at the brake wheel end, facing the wagon, is it on the right or left?

I really appreciate these photos.  The Atlas HO wagon I'm copying doesn't have the detail that yours has.  I've fabricated the operating cylinder and the rest of the detail should be straight forward.

The ladder rungs are different, as well.

I'll post up a photo as soon as I'm able.

Thanks, again.



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OK  I've removed all of the steps so I can gain access, and fitted the new brake gear.

Notice that it has the new series larger brake cylinder.  :lol:








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. . . and one from the end.




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Never mind "I've fitted new brake gear" - how did you make it Max ?  It looks a complex structure.

Oh and yes, it looks great. :thumbs



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Petermac wrote: Never mind "I've fitted new brake gear" - how did you make it Max ?  It looks a complex structure.

Oh and yes, it looks great. :thumbs

My thoughts exactly,how did you make it.Great work by the way Max.



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Thanks, guys.  It's a bit fraudulent, actually.

I just copied Nigel's excellent photos.

The booster is a piece of 5/16" styrene tube.  It should have been 1/4" but I didn't notice it until I'd glued it in.  It's a bit over scale.  The "pipes" are 1/16" brass rod and the "hose" is 1 mm solder.

The tapered cone and both tank ends are made from Knead It.  It's a two pack polymer putty which sets hard, but which you can drill.

I had to cut the steps away to get them in.  I've rebuilt them, but I haven't had time to take another photo.

Once the couplers arrive, I can add the cut lever and the MU hose.  I seem to spend my life waiting for stuff.

Anyway, I've started to build the roof.

Photos in due course. 

Cheers



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Hi Max,

That looks much better. More photo's of the hopper braking system below. It's no wonder these models cost $40 or more new. The trucks are off to show the details, I'm waiting for replacements (they are the sprung ones, new ones will be unsprung).

I have a Bowser hopper model (from a kit) which has no brake piping or lever detailing, just the reservoir, AB valve and air brake cylinder, $15.00.  Detail is expensive. On the roundtoit list (probably 50 cents of material and my time is free).

Nigel


Re what side? B end is on the right, airline pipe is at the bottom. Crossover is at the A end. Chains on end of brake levers would on the prototype link up with the brake shoe levers in the truck. Not modeled for obvious reasons in HO, you could probably do it in O. Just noticed the bottom left trap door frame needs a repair. I cut the levers from styrene sheet when adding brake gear to models that don't have it, and use staples for the guide bars. I believe the loops on the ends of the outside frame are for salvage lifting.




B end. Lever from air brake piston with connecting rod which runs through the bolster to the brake mechanism levers.




T'other end (the A end) showing airline pipe cross over above the coupler gear box.




A end from the top.




B end showing air brake lever running though bolster.






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Max, your hopper looks excellent. Can't wait to see it completed.

I bet ya even with the new supplier you'll have the roof and paint done before the couplers show up though.



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Thanks, Nigel.

That's very helpful.  :thumbs

Thanks, Brendan.

I've ordered them from P&D Hobby Shop, where I got my drive train parts for my Weaver GP 38.

http://www.pdhobbyshop.com



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Not up to Nigel's standard, but I reckon I'll pass.





I notice that P&D have debited my card, so the couplers are on their way.  :thumbs



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Top marks Max, proper job! 

Pete.



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Hi Max,

I doubt I could get anywhere near Kadee's tooling, what you have done so far is fantastic. That airline pipe is a really nice touch.

Nigel



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Thanks, guys.



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Railway wagons? They're just big metal boxes on wheels, aren't they?

This lovely sort of work proves otherwise, and with a chum like Nigel on the camera to help a good partneship is born.

I've enjoyed this thread, as you have said, Max, the air-brush awaits!

Doug



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Thanks, Doug.

Only seven to go.



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Chubber wrote: Railway wagons? They're just big metal boxes on wheels, aren't they?



Doug

Hi Doug,

Wishful thinking.

Next project for me is shown below. Wish I could have afforded the model, it's going to have to be a scratch/kit bash project. It's a sand car, used to deliver dried sand in 50 ton lots to line-side engine sanding equipment from the mid-1950's on. The Great Northern rebuilt some 50 ton Canton open ore hoppers into this starting in 1956.

Max, some nice brake equipment detailing in HO.

The following images are used by permission of the ebay trader sptebu (thanks Scott) who recently had this HO model on auction. Hand built in brass in Japan, note the opening hatches. It went for $307 US. Just a big metal box on wheels...

Nigel








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That is really nice, Nigel.  :thumbs



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Well, that one pictured isn't Nigel's, though I'm sure he wishes it was.

Nigel, it hopefully shouldn't be too big an ouch to do those sand hoppers. I know that short ore hoppers are common on evilBay and a few companies make roof walk stock and hatches.

Max, your hopper continues to look better and better.



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Thanks, Brendan.



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Here's a bit more progress . . .





Now for the hatches.  :cool:



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Hi Max,

Really looking the part, lots of detail. The hatches. Cement? Grain? Sand? Oh, the suspense.....

One thing I've noticed on prototype photo's is that the sides of hoppers are rarely pristine (out of the manufacturing shop), they are normally dented/bowed here and there between the bracing struts. Plus the occasional repair plate as they get older. Any thoughts?

Nigel



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ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote: Well, that one pictured isn't Nigel's, though I'm sure he wishes it was.

Nigel, it hopefully shouldn't be too big an ouch to do those sand hoppers. I know that short ore hoppers are common on evilBay and a few companies make roof walk stock and hatches.

Max, your hopper continues to look better and better.
Hi Brendan,

I was a bit shocked at what it went for, it's a rare one (first one I've seen). That's more than my budget for freight/MOW stock for the year. Does look nice though. Something to aim for re detail.

One Accurail Canton ore hopper suitably modified (only source for these cars), one Bowser hopper for the roof parts (hatches), some Ajax walkway from Plano, decal kit (available), scrap styrene from the box, that should do it. The GN were quite good at recycling ore cars, I've found photo's of at least 4 variations used for sand. They would make a nice rake.

Max has shown what can be done from scratch, real inspiration. It's got my interest. Tempting, tempting.....especially with brass sides and dents and dings.

Nigel



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Thanks, Nigel.

I know what you mean about wear and tear.  I like to build the model as it looks straight out of the factory and then leave time later to knock it about a bit.  I'm hoping to go for a look like the GP 38-2 I bashed from a Weaver - just road grime, for a start.




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The hatches are on.



To make the hatches, I used 1/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" steel washers and glued 6 mm wide strips of 1 mm styrene across them.



Then I filled the holes with Knead It™  Then I added 1/16" styrene for hinges and handles and  4 mm wide strips of 0.5 mm styrene across the top.



I can't do any more until the couplers arrive - possibly by the end of the week.

It's difficult to get the exposure right against the stark white of the styrene.



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While I'm waiting for the couplers, I've started a production line.



The glued styrene needs to be left overnight, so I look for something new to work on.



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Congratulations on picture of the week Max :thumbs

How many of these do you plan on making?



Ed



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Thanks, Ed.  That's unexpected.  :lol:

There will be eight in all.  A hopper, a passenger carriage, an open wagon, a flat car and four box cars.

http://www.nmra.org/cars

My last Certificate for MMR



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wow eight more weeksd of pic of the week ?? well deserved Max a lot of work in there :doublethumb
:thumbs;-):cool:
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Thanks, Owen.  It could get a bit boring.  :lol:



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I have been fortunate in having seen the first one off the production line in the flesh and it certainly deserves not only the Picture of the Week but :pathead :thumbs

what it will be like when painted will be another aspect to drool over  :mrgreen:



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"To make the hatches, I used 1/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" steel washers and glued 6 mm wide strips of 1 mm styrene across them.
Then I filled the holes with Knead It™  Then I added 1/16" styrene for hinges and handles and  4 mm wide strips of 0.5 mm styrene across the top."


Love it, love it love it......

Real modelling!

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Thanks, Doug.

That's why I'm loving O scale.  You have to make a lot of it yourself.

Just like the old days, eh?



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The underside of my small passenger car.



Still waiting for the couplers.  :roll:



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I've been waylaid again.  My friend gave me an old model of a 19th century slaver, which is roughly O scale.



Both of the masts and the bowsprit were broken, so I've jury rigged a couple of forestays to hold it all in place while the repair glue sets up.  A couple of other minor repairs and she's ready.

The story is that the local hysterical society received a grant to restore her as a sail training ship, so she's on the slipway at the eastern end of the layout.

That way, I'm not under pressure to complete the rigging.

I should get away with it.  :lol:

I've made a cradle (which forced me to at least lay the track for the slipway.)



It's still in etch primer, but will later be weathered etc.

Now, of course the slipway will need a winch.  So, to the scrap box and with a couple of old gears, some plastic pipe, an old bottle cap and some styrene . . .



and here they are in context . . .



The removable lid allows me to add the winch cable and other trimmings.

Now somehow I have to cut the model free from the wooden cradle.  It's been seriously glued in.  :shock:



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MaxSouthOz wrote: Now somehow I have to cut the model free from the wooden cradle.  It's been seriously glued in.  :shock:

Sounds like you've just done the easy bit first Max :mutley

Good luck.



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Wow, a fine restoration job by the hysterical society and in a much cleaner and sweet smelling condition than in its working days! As Ed said, now for the tricky bit, fingers crossed!

Great inventiveness with the winch Max, the design helping the modelling, very clever. If the hysterical society ever fancy a new challenge, how about something like this winch I spotted in Portsmouth's naval dockyard on my last visit?



This one's currently under restoration, hence the couple of gallons of red oxide to hold it!

Bill :)
 



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Thanks, Ed.  I'm thinking of running a coping saw under it.

Thanks, Bill.  Thanks for the photo.  It might be a trifle large for my job.  :lol:

I'll give them a call and see how much they want for it!  :cool:



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How lovely!

I have a copy of the print below, showing such a trolley, very nicely modelled, Max.

http://www.russellflint.net/russellflint-devonportdockyard.html

I actually worked around that slipway when I/C of a small-craft electrical unit in D'Port yard.

The capstan engine above was one of many in naval yards, usually in a big pit with just the winding drum showing and used to pull ships into and out of flooded dry docks, and indeed to manoeuvre the caissons once they were floated out.

The d'yard L.P. steam main that them.

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Thanks, Doug.

The cradle is modelled on one we had where I used to keep my Van der Stadt 27 footer.

Those were the days.  Working under the hull, scraping all the undergrowth off and then painting on the anti-fouling.  :lol:



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I've managed to cut the boat off its stand (and repair the damage).  :lol:



The boat is safe in its cradle and I don't have to explain to visitors where the scene goes from here.

Now, back to building cars.  :cool:



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MaxSouthOz
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Wagon number two is ready for painting.



I don't know anything about it, other than it's nice and short.  I copied an HO model I have.



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 Posted: Tue Apr 5th, 2016 09:42 am
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Did the couplers turn up Max ?

Ed



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 Posted: Tue Apr 5th, 2016 11:06 am
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Yes, Ed.

I've only installed the coupler boxes as I don't want to get paint on the actual couplers when I paint the cars.

I still have to add the brake hoses, as well.



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Make a few extra Max, you could have a nice little business with the price of O gauge rolling stock :lol:

Ed



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 Posted: Tue Apr 5th, 2016 11:29 am
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:lol:  I can't believe how slow it is, Ed.

I reckon I'm working for about 20 cents an hour.



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Hi Max,

Looks like a high-sided tapered ore car. And very nice too. Coupler levers?

Nigel



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 Posted: Wed Apr 6th, 2016 02:30 am
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Thanks, Nigel.

There aren't any cut levers showing on the model I'm working from.

I might have to do some more research and go through and do all of them.



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Hi Max,

If you're using an HO model not many have coupler cut levers (bars) as they are pretty fragile in plastic.

Normally found on the LHS, although some cars have one on each side. Have a look at http://www.planomodelproducts.com/coupbar_scq.html for some examples (model and real). Under, over, trombones even. Easy enough to fabricate from a bit of channel and some P/B or brass wire. Bet you could have them working in O!

Nigel



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 Posted: Thu Apr 7th, 2016 12:34 am
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Ha ha.  Thanks Nigel - not sure I will be able to get them working.

I can't believe that none of the manufacturers has attempted such an obtrusive device.



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Hi Max,

Just checked my RTR freight cars - no cut levers (Atlas, Athearn, Walthers, MTH). In contrast most of the kit manufacturers supply them (Athearn blue box and Roundhouse excepted). All of them are plastic with varying degrees of fragility, and no good for club layouts. As you say, it's a pretty obvious detail, but it's easily added using brass or P/B wire and some right angle channel. Same goes for air lines and steam lines. Pretty obvious, especially if the coupler magnetic trip pins are removed.

Nigel



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Yes, Nigel.  I've been on the O gauge forum and got some pretty good reference photos.

Yesterday I was at my friend's place, who runs On3 olde worlde narrow gauge.  Close inspection of his stock shows cut levers.

Have a look at his layout.  It makes me want to stick my head in the oven - pointless, as it's electric, I know.  :lol:

http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Peter%20Jackson%202/indexb.html

Dunno why the link has decided not to work.  :twisted:



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http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Layouts_NG.html

Scroll down to Peter Jackson MMR






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Hi Max,

That's some seriously great modeling. I keep feeling the tug of O-narrow gauge, keeps getting stronger, radio-control, battery power, garden layout. I have a Bagnall quarry 0-4-0 white metal kit that I didn't get around to building somewhere.....plus all that Bachmann On30 stock is cheap and reliable. And I've always fancied a go at an 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 Sentinel.

I'm gussying up some old Athearn Blue Box freight cars at the moment, when I've done adding the cut levers and air lines I'll post some photo's. Be a darn site easier in O scale!

Nigel




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I'm looking forward to seeing that, Nigel.   :thumbs



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Anyway, I've painted the first car - the hopper . . .



It's a bit green, but the weathering powders will tone that down.

It's ready for the decals and weathering.

I connected up the decoder and the couplers open and close - UNTIL I TRIED TO CHANGE ADDRESS.

Now nothing works.  I've yet to buy something from DCC Concepts which doesn't give me grief!

I can't remember the work around I used last time.

This is the same problem I had with these DCC Concepts decoders.  I try to support local businesses, but every time I try, they let me down.

Anyway, I've written to their so called tech support.  Who knows if they will get back to me



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I guess the default address is 3? do you need a motor across programming track to give a load so the decoder will change address?



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It's a function only decoder, Sol so it shouldn't need a load.

However, I did try a 10 Ohm resistor across the rails.  Same result.

I remember last time I used these decoders, I had the Devil of a time trying to change addresses.

Stupid me.  I should have bought a quality decoder.  :roll:



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A 10 ohm resistor across rails is not a load on the decoder but I see what you mean by a function decoder.



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Some function only decoders did need a 100ohm resistor in one of the function wires.



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Yep.  Hasn't helped, Ian.



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Also tried F7  >  CV 17 = 192 and  CV 18 = 11   For address 11.

nuffink.



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I have TCS function only decoders that show same symptoms as Max's DCCconcepts decoders.

 I have overcome the problem by putting a tail light globe between green & blue wires on decoder.

 Also, putting a loco in tandem on program track (F8 on lenz) with F-only decoder also works.

 Change address on loco back after.

 Don't know why, but a motor, globe or resistor across program track rails does not work.

 Cheers

 ian



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Looks like the Lenz doesn't like DCC Concepts decoders.  :twisted:

I just took a 170 km round trip to Sol's place.

He popped it on the NCE and programmed it instantly.

I'll never say anything bad about NCE again.  :oops:

I have seven more to programme - that's 1190 km!



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Hi Max,

NCE looking hopper.

Nigel



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That hopper looks even better painted than it did in the raw. Shame about the decoders giving you grief trying to program them.

Speaking of coupler cut bars, maybe that'll be the next trendy upgrade: operating, magnetically-actuated coupler cut bars to allow simple remote uncoupling in HO and maybe N without the faux-brake line trip pins (since people are whining about those now)



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Thanks, Brendan.  Protocraft make O scale cut levers which operate the couplers.  I guess I could have employed the memory wire to actuate them, but I went for the cotton instead.

Funny how it sometimes comes back to a piece of string.  :lol:



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Sounds like the same situation that once existed between Digitrax decoders and Lenz.

 It was not the fault of system, Digitrax decoders were not compatible with some systems.

 I believe situation has been rectified with more modern  D decoders.



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Next one . . .



Once again, no decals and/or weathering.

The couplers open and close on address 3.  I've bought an auto stop/tail lamp to give Ian's suggestion a go.

Interestingly, I found an email this morning from Peter at DCC Concepts saying that he is going to borrow a Lenz system and see if he can figure out how to change the address.

It's a public holiday here today, so I don't expect any results until maybe tomorrow.



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Underneath the flat car . . .




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Looks to be a good, sturdy job with a nicely-detailed brake system.



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Thanks, Brendan.



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Here's the flat car with a load of pipes . . .



I've still got to paint the strapping and the wooden bearers.

Here it is undressed, showing the gubbins wot works the couplers . . .



It can sit with the others while I finish the combine.



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A neat way of hiding the works then ...
I reckon you can build those in your sleep now !!



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It feels like it!  :mutley



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In the absence of 7mm robots, I reckon that's about the most realistic way of operating couplings Max.

With the load on, nobody would know how they're working (unless you told 'em). :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs


Ed



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Thanks, Ed.



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MaxSouthOz wrote: Here's the flat car with a load of pipes . . .



I've still got to paint the strapping and the wooden bearers.

Here it is undressed, showing the gubbins wot works the couplers . . .



It can sit with the others while I finish the combine.

 

Engineering perfection in miniature.

Nice one Max.

Allan.

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Thanks, Allan.



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Maxyou are surpassing your self,great stuff,when is the demo tape to be released?
:thumbs;-):cool:
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Thanks, Owen.

Christmas time, I'd say.  :lol:



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Can't wait Max.

Will there be any Shiela's in it !

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:mutley  dunno Mate.  It's a good thought, but.



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Here's a not very good shot of the obligatory passenger car . . .



The "Stay Alive" DCC Concepts decoders - don't.

The lights still flicker.  Still, what can you expect from an A$22.20 decoder?   But it doesn't do what it says on the tin.

Why am I surprised?

The red lights change from the front to the back using the Direction button.

Just the window glazing to go.



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Well, you could always rig the light power to a watch battery.

The coach looks pretty swell, it turned out rather nicely.



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Here's me can't put a Slaters waggon kit together and there's Max scratchbuilding O Gauge coaches to die for.

T'ain't fair !

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Thanks, Brendan.

Thanks, Allan.  You're too kind.  :cool:



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that is a little beauty,wow,
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Thanks, Owen.

The photo doesn't do it justice.   :lol:



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Photo's of my bald patch likewise.

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:mutley



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Ed wrote: In the absence of 7mm robots, I reckon that's about the most realistic way of operating couplings Max.

With the load on, nobody would know how they're working (unless you told 'em). :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs


Ed



We'll keep it our little secret then, Ed...

Max, your chum Peter Jackson certainly has a gift. Some nice wood he's got access to too, another plus for O Scale is that real grained hardwood looks the part, but after your jetty work you know well enough, very classy.

Doug



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Thanks, Doug.



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So, I'm starting on the four boxcars which will complete the set.

As the styrene glue takes 12 hours minimum to set up completely, I'm doing it in a production line.



From the right, the jig I've made up to assemble the main framework, which is made from 3 mm styrene.  It has to be completely straight and rigid.  The space between the stiffeners is wide enough to accommodate the relays, resistors and the decoders.

On the left I have added the mountings for the muscle wire and drilled the holes for the pick up wires, the bogie mounting screws and the angled ports for the cotton thread.

The coupler pockets have been added, together with their 0.5 mm spacers which set the coupler height.



I've also added the corrugated floor and the centre brace, and marked the positions of the longitudinal straps which represent the joists.

Hopefully the production line will save me a bit of build time.



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Max Magic. No other word for it.

Allan

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:thumbs



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This is just a photo for my reference.



I need to make three more like this.



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Exquisite x 3

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Now there's an adjective I didn't expect.

Thanks, Allan.   :cool:



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'Adjective'

What's one of dem ?

And do they come in packs of three or by the length ?

 

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Naw, adjectives come as part of this jumbo-size bulk pack called a dictionary.

And Max, you might not have expected it but it fits.



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:lol:



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Thanks, Brendan.



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I've finally finished one . . . 



The carriage is complete with windows.

I only have to do the decals on the other three and weather them and I'm half way!

I can actually do a bit of shunting. 



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I think I've fixed the DCC Concepts decoder.

I left it on the layout for an hour.  I've heard that these capacitors sometimes need a bit of charge time first up.

Anyway, it seems to be working.  Fingers crossed.



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Looks good Max :thumbs


How have you managed to disguise the 'gubbins' inside for the couplings, can't see anything in the picture.



Ed



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Thanks, Ed.

I've coated the window panes with tissue paper - glued on with CA.



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MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, Ed.

I've coated the window panes with tissue paper - glued on with CA.
A classic solution. Are you going to draw silhouettes on the inner face of the paper with a felt-tip or anything like that?



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Nice effect :thumbs



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No, Brendan.  The lights will be off when it's being shunted.  Which will be all of the time.

I only connected them up to the decoder to get extra points when it's assessed.


Thanks, Ed.



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Fair enough, Max.



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Beginning to look like a yard Max. You must be pleased. Great stuff!

Bill

 



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Thanks, Bill.  I am.



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Looking good. I've been enjoying following this build. Your patience (how do you manage it!?) is really paying off.



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Thanks, Mike.  Not sure about the patience.  :lol:



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MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, Mike.  Not sure about the patience.  :lol:


It's IMpatience that gets the job done !

Patience is when the missus takes six months to knit a jumper that doesn't fit and impatience is when I buy one at Argos the same day that does !

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:mutley



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Clever work on the flat car with its load of pipes Max!

Cheers
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Thanks, Marty.

I wonder how I would do a tanker car . . .  :hmm



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What do you see as the main obstacle(s) to doing a tank car?



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ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote: What do you see as the main obstacle(s) to doing a tank car?

It would leak when he put all the uncoupling gubbins inside it :mutley



Ed



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ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote: What do you see as the main obstacle(s) to doing a tank car?
The semi domed ends ?

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No.  The ends are easy, Allan.  I've done some before using Plastibond and shaping it with a file.

Ed's right.  Fitting all of the gubbins which work the couplers, inside.

It's not an issue at the moment, as I have enough to pass the AP assessment; but it will prey on my mind, I'm sure.  :lol:



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Max, these 'assessments' I understand [correctly?] are part of a series of tests of the standard of your railway modelling.

Would you explain a little further, please?

Who assesses you? Who is qualified to do so?

Doug



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Hi Doug

First, a description of the Achievement Program.

http://www.nmra.org/education/achievement-program

You can see from the descriptions, there are good guidelines for both myself and the assessors.

So long as the assessors are trusted senior members it's fairly simple for them to follow the guidelines.

The Australasian Region Manager of the Program is a very experienced modeller and a Master Modeller himself.  In each Division he has Assistants who assess the candidates and then submit their reports to him.   The reports are backed up by documentation and photographs; often also drawings and computer files.

Once the Regional Manager is satisfied that the candidate has met the requirements for each category, he issues a Certificate.

Once the candidate has achieved seven of the eleven available Certificates, the Regional Manager issues the writ and the candidate becomes a Master Modeller. 

You can see from the website that the subjects are arranged in groups and candidates must have qualified in a spread of subjects across all of the groups.

The Program has been running since the 1950's and so far there are only about six hundred and something MMRs worldwide; so it is not easy to do.

I will complete my sixth Certificate in June this year and the scratch building of the cars will make seven.

Sol is on six and should complete his seventh soon as well.

I have been working on the program for about 10 years.  I achieved my first Certificate in 2012.

There is also an entry level Certificate called the Golden Spike.  You can read about it on the website.  I achieved mine last year when I realised that I had enough points.

I also was presented with the Hopkins Bone award in 2013 for services to the NMRA and the modelling fraternity.  Sol has been presented with the President's Award along similar lines.

It's a bit stressful at times, but at the end of the day it's fun to pit yourself against the benchmarks.

Just another way to enjoy the hobby.  I hope that helps make it a bit clearer.



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Thank you for that, Max, I'm sure there are plenty of other people as ignorant of the matter as myself [well, maybe not 'plenty']who will be interested to know but didn't want to ask the question!

Cheers,

Doug



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Max

Great inspiration and the information on the NMRA site is great too. Interestingly a lot of us lesser skilled mortals would probably be able to qualify for the golden spike grade and so begin our journey.

Good food for thought. Thank you.

George



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Thanks, George.



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G`day Max,

Just been catching up with your scratch building here.

You`re setting the bar very, very high there mate.......absolutely beautiful work.:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

I`m just going out to lock my shed, throw the key away.....and burn it to the ground .......:mutley:mutley

:cheers  Gormo



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Thanks.

Don't do that, Gormo.

  Yours looks mighty fine to me.  :thumbs

I've got a friend, Peter Jackson who makes me feel like that about my layout every time I go for an operating session.

Check this out . . .

http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Peter%20Jackson%202/index.html 

I came home very depressed after my first visit.



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MaxSouthOz wrote: 

I came home very depressed after my first visit.

I come home depressed after any visit to Peter Jackson's layout :oops:



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This weekend I have made a start on the box cars.




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Getting a "Not Found" message  to that link Max.



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Yes, Mike.  With some browsers you have to delete the tails to get to where it opens and then work your way forward again.

If I click on it from here, I get Not Found.

If I do it from the email response, it opens.  Go figure.

It's probably better that you don't see it - it's quite depressing.   :mutley



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Me too Max.....I get the error.....Warning, Warning.....Will Robinson !!!!!!!

:cheers  Gormo

PS......Got it!!!!..........try this

http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Peter%20Jackson%202/target0.html



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OK  Let's try this . . .

http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Layouts_NG.html

Scroll down to Peter Jackson MMR  . . .

Then click on [See the Layout]    It's at the bottom.



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Seems to be working . . .



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Er.  So does your link, Gormo.  :oops:



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An excellent boxcar, Max. Can't wait to see it and its kin completed and painted



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Thanks, Brendan.  I also.  (Me too).   :lol:



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The first of the box cars is going to be a hazmat car.

Yellow doesn't cover the etch primer too well, so lots of coats . . .




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Ah yes, the joys of trying to paint nonporous materials yellow.



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And a patch on one side ran, so it had to be rubbed off and done again.

The only way to successfully paint that area was to lie it on its side.

All done.



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Is the painting done by airbrush or rattle can?



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Tamiya rattle can, Andy.

I warm the can and shake it for a minute before each application.  It's only the yellow that's challenged me.



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The green one turned out OK.



Excuse the detritus.  :lol:



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I will have to look out for some of the Tamiya cans as yellow is a real pain to get coverage with the airbrush, and its needed a lot with the yellow ends of the UK diesel locos.



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Rather than grey primer the Tamiya fine white surface primer seems to be better for a yellow top coat. Still takes a minimum of 3 coats though. Bonus is rivet detail is preserved. I used to use yellow zinc primer (automobile anti-rust) but a lot of top coats didn't like it and rivets tended to become rounded hills.

Nigel



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Tamiya fine white primer.  Thanks, Nigel.  I'll have a look in their cage.  (All spray cans are kept under lock and key here).

Although I don't have plans for another yellow car at this stage. 



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The boxes are all done.



Now for the decalling, matt finishing, fitting out and weathering.

Not much if you say it quickly.  :lol:



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that is one colourful train Max,more power to your elbow
:thumbs;-):cool:
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Thanks, Owen.  It won't be so gaudy once it's dullcoated and weathered.  :lol:



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These cars have been dull coated and lightly weathered.



Unfortunately, the weathering paint doesn't show up in the photos. 

The three box cars in the background are waiting for the next shipment of memory wire to arrive. 



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They look the dog's doo dahs Max (if a little bright) :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs


Ed



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Thanks, Ed.  In this case, the camera has lied.  :lol:



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Luffly!

Opening this on my tablet I had my thumb over the 'wall' at bottom right and had one of those 'Is it a photo?'moments.

Doug



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Thanks, Doug.



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Wow Max you have been busy,quite a nice collection there,look good too,
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Thanks, Owen.  We're getting there.



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Hi Max,

Nice looking circus.

Nigel



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Thanks, Nigel.



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Here is a link with more details on how I made the couplers . . .

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14398&forum_id=10&jump_to=261224#p261224



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So here is the motley crew, ready for inspection . . .



I have done some fettling on the box cars.  The Kadee couplers needed quite a bit of work with a file to get them to slide together easily.  O scale is different.  I also put a smear of Vaseline on the faces of the jaws.

The other four will get tidied up in the next few days.

It's obvious now that I will only be able to run four wagons at a time during the operating sessions, due to size restrictions.

I had a bit of a play with it this afternoon.  It was quite fun.



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looks great,Max,bet you had a lotof fun too,
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Owen



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Thanks, Owen.

Yes, and more to come.  :cool:



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You're happy with the operation then? they look great and if they work as advertised you must be very pleased!

Marty



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Thanks, Marty.

Yes.  It can still be improved a bit, but I'm confident going forward.  :lol:



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