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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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I bought an undecorated Pullman Palace sleeper kit at my LHS, it was old stock that had been there for years. I happily snatched it up, since I wanted some passenger stock. Of course, I do have to paint it up and build an interior and all.

I've begun by weathering the bogies (trucks in American parlance, but I do tend to go with British parlance more) and the underbody detail parts, weathering them to make them look more realistic. The bogies have been quite transformed - those familiar with the kit know that they were originally an especially plastic-looking gloss black and that just won't do at all. I do wonder if I've overdone it a bit, though, since this is supposed to be a well-kept, in-service car:

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Hi Brendan,

Are those the original wheels? I just had a look at my stock of Pullman Palace cars, they are plastic. I use Reboxx single insulated 36" wheels, they run smoother, look better (shiny tread) and allow pick-up for lighting. My suggestion would be to do the truck frame separately from the wheels. Use some plastic primer, then steam or grimy black or equivalent, light dusting of brake dust around the shoes and springs. Oily black on the journal boxes. Bit heavier with the frame dust/track dust on the wheels, which should be dark grey. If you have one or can borrow one a model sand blaster will give that dull cast iron look to the trucks. The degree of weathering you have would be fine for an MOW, probably a tad heavy for express varnish duty.

The MDC 6-wheel trucks are pretty close to the prototype but unless you have 18"track radii you don't need those Talgo couplers. Put the KDs on the end of the body.

Nigel

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Well, 18" radius is the largest curve size I have, so the Talgos are kind of a must. I did paint the truck frames and wheels separately, I just put them back together for now since it keeps the wheels from rolling away.

And yeah, they're the original wheels. I don't have a stock of metal replacement wheels or anything like that, but I don't mind plastic wheels.

Thanks for the advice, I'll be sure to fine-tune things accordingly. Based on what you said, I would guess I indeed overdid it with the rust paint on the wheels

Last edited on Mon Jan 18th, 2016 05:00 am by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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Hi Brendan,

Eighteen inches you will need the Talgos. Don't forget to cover up the axle holes when painting/spaying. Metal wheels and axles are are a good investment. As is one of those pinpoint axle hole cleaners. Metal axles and wheels run much better than plastic ones. Check the axle length if you do swap over. Reboxx have lengths to suit MDC Palace trucks.

Which car are you modeling?

Nigel

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This is the sleeping car kit, Nigel, which apparently corresponds to Pullman Plan 1845B. Not modelling a specific real car, since I'm doing a made-up freelance railroad.

I know metal wheels are better, but there are currently other kinds of parts higher on my priority list for when I have money. Plastic wheels can function at least decently when the tyres are free of flash and the axles are turning freely.

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Decided that this thread would serve better as a more general workbench thread for me. And on that note, have another of my projects:

I've been working on a scratchbuilt water tower. It's primarily being made out of matchsticks. The deck planks are popsicle sticks glued to a middle layer cut from cereal box cardboard.
According to a calculation based on scale measurements of the tank, the capacity is a scale 19,764.13091 US gallons. Not too shabby.

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Hi Brendan,

82 tons of water, just a small one then, although you'd better get a few hawser cables around that beast quick, otherwise it'll be a flood plain waiting to happen.

Nigel

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I'm working on it, I'm working on it. Gotta get the "metal" bands painted, got to get a ladder soldered together...


Revised weathering on the bits. Also got one bolster glued on, as well as the undercarriage bits.

Bought a complete set of Athearn Gunderson Maxi-III well car shells. It was just the shells, so no details or even connectors. I'm making my own connectors instead, and making them as eyes rather than imitating the original connector parts. This is for added cornering ability: I'm going to glue a plate with two posts on it over each middle bogie, and the eyes will each slip over the nearest post. More flexible that way.

Also working on this

Last edited on Fri Jan 22nd, 2016 07:36 am by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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Hi Brendan,

Dire straits then.

Watch the flashing on the Pullman Palace windows, PITA to remove after painting, and impossible after glazing. Flat file works well. Trucks look really good.

Gundersons. All five? Blue Box? I think the recommended minimum radius is 22" so getting them around 18" corners without tipping over should be fun. Lots of weight in the bottom container seems to work. What trucks are you going to use? Using 2 pins on the same truck is a good idea, should give you that extra couple of mm's to get you around the bends. That way you can keep the height of the couplers the same, and avoid frictional forces (one pressing on the other). Neat.

Caboose. Bit too modern for me. Is that car primer?

Nigel

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Yeah, all five and all Blue Box. They're not actually matched livery-wise(middles are CSX, ends are Santa Fe), but they're getting repainted anyway so that doesn't matter. The trucks I'm using... One pair is from Walthers (came from the track-cleaner reefer, which I have decided is going to be grounded and used as a storage shed), one pair is from Athearn, and one pair is from a company that made trucks designed as replacements for broken Tyco trucks (The plugs and talgo boxes have been cut off from these, of course). The Walthers and Athearn trucks are six-spring, so they're going to be the shared ones.

That's not car primer on the caboose, it's just brush-on acrylic. I've had good results with it usually.

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Hi Brendan,

Nice brush work then. What (whose) acrylic are you using?

Nigel

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Generally, I use Craft Smart and Apple Barrel acrylics. Cheap, but fairly decent. Sometimes they need thinning with a bit of water.
Wouldn't say that the brushwork on that caboose is all that nice - the blue dried rough in patches on the top coat. Sigh.


I completed the connectors and custom Jacobs bogies for the well car set. And indeed, it navigates 18" radius curves. Sorry about the iffy focus in the photo.

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Hi Brendan,

With some double stacked that will look very nice.

I like the Apple Barrel acrylics, decent coverage with a couple of coats.

Nigel 

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Getting containers to load this lot with... Oh, that's going to be all kinds of fun financially... Scratchbuilding corrugated sides seems like it would be a pain in the butt to get right, but I might have to see if I can pull it off because yeah.

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Scratchbuilding all those containers would drive me up the wall, have you considered resin casting them? you would just (just!) need to make one master, and then you could make as many as you needed, maybe make extras and sell them to pay for your own? just a thought.


Pete.

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ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote: Getting containers to load this lot with... Oh, that's going to be all kinds of fun financially... Scratchbuilding corrugated sides seems like it would be a pain in the butt to get right, but I might have to see if I can pull it off because yeah.
Hi Brendan,

I believe you can get styrene sheet in appropriate corrugation sizes. Build a box first though. What is going to give you an "ouch' moment is the cost of the decals. What is then going to give you more grief is getting the decals on. Do some budget calculations first, eebygum often has job lots of containers.  How about card containers? Or KIBRI #10924?

Nigel

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I've been looking at evilbay and almost every container listing there currently is for a single container, and between price and shipping the 40' ones are all at least $10. Someone does have the Kibri pack listed though, but that's the only value lot I found.

I've found a card kit of 20' containers but none bigger than that so far. I was planning on scratchbuilding mainly from cardboard and card, not styrene, and just printing the logos and such out from the household printer.

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Hi Brendan,

That's the problem with Gundersons, consist of 5 double stacked will set you back $100+. I've seen them with double stacked, single stacked, and half stacked (40"+ 20' on the bottom) containers on the same train, as well as trains with multiple consists all empty, so you don't need them all filled. Tank containers tend to be on their own, normally full of nasty stuff.

I've seen them at model trains shows for $2-3 each. 40' ones are $6.99 at modeltrainstuff.com (plus postage).

Nigel


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Hi Brendan

Don't suppose these are any good as they're OO and more UK/European.

http://www.modelrailwayscenery.com/2014/09/40ft-shipping-containers-oo4mm176/


Ed

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Those would be good, yes. That they were designed in OO scale is not an issue, since they can be made HO by printing them at 87.4% size. And as for the brands, the same ones are seen here in the USA.

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Some more containers here

http://www.modelbuildings.org/shipping-containers-B430.html

ZeldaTheSwordsman
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I have begun work on my Mantua Pacific. I have made an over-the-treads pickup using a brass fastener, cemented to a wooden block which is in turn cemented to the chassis.



I have also been painting this hopper and this reefer up in new colors, and painting and weathering the wheels and trucks.

Last edited on Fri Jan 29th, 2016 05:46 am by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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Sorry about that, for some reason the insertions didn't go through originally! Cursed Samsung browser!

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Hi Brendan,

I like the pick-up arrangement. You may want to check the current draw of that motor and get it insulated from the frame if you ever contemplate going DCC.

Nigel

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Thanks, I'm proud of having come up with a simple, functional solution. Me going DCC is a loooong way off at this juncture, but I get your point. I actually have a magazine with an article about DCCing brass locos, which is similar in a lot of ways I'd imagine.


Working on getting it repainted into my chosen color scheme. The cab isn't pictured because I haven't started on painting it yet.

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Work in progress modification of Bachmann's Bertie the bus to have an interior and proper windows

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Test fit of the work-in-progress scratchbuilt pilot. Some bending to correct for, but the base does fit and line up properly.

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Work has begun on scratchbuilding the tender.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
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In 2008 I began an effort to build an operating model of Lady from Thomas and the Magic Railroad, using the Ertl toy model and the chassis from a Life-Like B&O class C-16 (an 0-4-0T commonly known as a "Docksider"). Progress has been slow, due to the work mostly being on-and-off (even after I got a motor that would actually fit inside Lady's shell in 2010). By September of 2014 I had gotten her to this state. She ran, but there was still a lot of work to do as far as appearance and body fit went.



I have gotten back to working on her more properly today. Shell and footplate have been trimmed and filed in places, and the fit is now correct at last. The original cylinders have been sawn off to allow for easy fitting of accurate ones. And the temporary placeholder strips glued on to keep the connecting rods from dragging (I cut off the part of them that went into the cylinders, since it just had cheesy-looking pseudo-valve gear) have been removed, since I'm now ready to make proper Allen valve gear for her.

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As promised in another thread, here's the progress on a do-over of weathering this wagon. Making inroads on getting the paint stripped off.

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Apologies for the upside-down photo, or perhaps it is the gallery's coding that should be apologizing.At any rate, another project has arrived. It is a kit of a Union Pacific Big Boy. The kit was designed as a static display model, but I am going to turn it into a powered, operating model. It will be painted pink with red wheels as the Mantua Pacific is.
Though I despair of anyone here seeing the result...

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Hi Brendan,

Looks good to me - the locomotive is right way up - you must be standing on your head.

You're a brave man for tackling this project - double everything. What's the plan re motor(s) and mechanisms?

Nigel

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Well, I've got a Canon can motor with a double-ended shaft. Had it for a while, it was bought new and hasn't been used.

When I bought the Big Boy kit I also bought a pair of U-jointed long shafts with worm gears. If I attach one of those to the other end of the motor shaft, that should let me use the single motor to power both sets of drivers.

I have assorted spare gears, some of which ought to be suitable for fitting to an axle on either set of drivers.

And I have even thought of a couple of ways to make metal flange/tread pieces that I can fit onto the drive wheels, following a bit of filing to ensure the diameter will be correct afterwards:
1. We have a number of spare brass grommets, and if some of those should prove to be of the right diameter, they would simply need to be cut and filed down to fit fully.
2. Making rings out of scrap brass strip and soldering them to washers.

Back-contacting pickup wipers will be made using brass paper fasteners.

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Hi Brendan,

Shades of Heath Robinson - I look forward to updates. Is this one of those nice Revell kits?

Nigel

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Monogram, actually, but the only difference is the label. My particular example is cast in metallic charcoal, which is nice since that makes the molded coal load look good without my having to do anything to it.

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Here's another project in progress: A sand house. It's being built to plans from "The Boys' Book of Model Railroading", although with the height at the peak being 22 scale feet I have to wonder if the dimensions in the book plans were written down correctly..

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you are a busy man,all looking good,as for the house bear in mind the average house in the uk is 22/24 ft to roof ridge
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

Last edited on Wed Mar 2nd, 2016 01:58 pm by Silver Fox

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True, though this isn't a house for habitation. This is a house for cleaning and screening sand and conveying it to a loco's sand dome.

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nuff said:pedal:mutley
:thumbs;-):cool:
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Hi Brendan,

Great Northern sand drying houses were around 15-17 feet high, so the plan you have is quite tall.  There would have been a coal-fired dryer inside, plus a dry sand reservoir and air pumps to deliver the sand. Wet sand was normally stored in a connecting low shed with a long opening track side, level with the floor of a boxcar - made shoveling the sand out easier. Lots of variants, sand was often loaded directly into the sand drying house, coal was stored either with the wet sand or in a separate connecting shed.

Are you going to have some sand towers? Great modeling cameo.

Nigel

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Thanks.

Some sand houses instead used shrouded conveyor belts fitted with pockets, which is what the plans I'm working to call for both for conveying the dry sand to a loco's sand dome and for bringing sand in from the outside bunker.

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Hi Brendan,

Sounds intriguing. Post some pictures as it develops.

Nigel

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I got the clapboards finished...

And the house painted. I chose seafoam green like the water tank for the exterior.

Last edited on Mon Mar 7th, 2016 09:43 pm by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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Got back to working on the scratchbuilt tender finally. One bogie well underway.

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So, I got started on drilling holes for the rivet detail in the tender. A bit tedious, especially since I'm having to use a pushpin to drill.


I've got one side done so far. It's kinda messy, but eh. So be it.

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Hi Brendan,

More patience than I have. Good work. One "tool" that I found useful for doing this sort of thing is a blunt dart tip ("arrows", beloved of pubs). Take the dart, remove flights, round-off tip with a file or emery (or even better a bench grinder). The tips are made from hardened steel to withstand bouncing off the wire in dartboards (and the pub walls and floors). Rivet makers depend on a hard tip (harder than tin, regular steel or brass) and a depression for the "rivet" head to go into. Plus some means of aligning the metal being "riveted". Piece of cork works well with the dart tip. I used a small hammer, the amount of bang required is not a lot.

My Metalsmith riveter is a precision piece of gear, with machined heads for HO/OO, S and O, and corresponding depressions in what must be R65+ steel dies that ensures even rivet spacing as the work progresses, plus adjustment for pressure applied. Cheap it wasn't, and fiddly to use, but it works well with styrene and brass/ nickel silver. It will not work with strips, they curl as they go through the process. I still use it for odd shapes. Decals take 5-10% of the time. I'm normally finished in the time it takes to set the riveting pressure pressure and die head position for the rivet spacing. Method of choice these days.

Nigel


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Thank you Nigel.

I've done the other side now, so I'm almost done poking these holes. I'm happy about that, my thumb is going to be sore for a week from doing this. I wish I had a proper riveting tool, even if it was of a lesser caliber than yours.

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Well, I've got some lovely delicious progress to show.



First, I've filled in all those rivet holes with rivets. I glued snippets of brass wire into the holes, one by one, then ground them all down when I was done. I've also almost got the coal retainer walls on (the right-hand side is being a nuisance)


The pilot is also progressing again. I've made inroads on building the steam chest, and on the separate cowcatcher section.
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The inside of the tender looks like some form of torture device.

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A torture device, huh? Well, my thumb sure felt like it had been through one after I finished drilling holes for the rivets.

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Hi Brendan,

Great progress. Thimble would have helped a lot.

Nigel

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Might have, might have got in the way because I was using the inner side of my thumb. But we don't have one big enough for my big fat thumbs anyway. Alas.

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Hi Brendan,

Forgot to mention it - that pilot is coming along nicely. Looking forward to the cowcatcher.

Nigel

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Been far too long since my last post... Time for a big fat update.

EDIT: Time for it for real this time. I hope.

First off, here's the scratchbuilt tender:

A side-on view to give a general look. Partially painted (I ran out while working on it, and since my original shade was too dark anyway I mixed up a new, bigger, lighter batch and redid the loco's paint), it looks at least halfway decent, although it's been sidelined for now (You can see why in the background) - I will definitely build or buy a loco to go with it, not discarding it after the work I put in. Haven't built a coal load yet, but I intend that it be removable to allow interior access


A view of the back, showing the hole I drilled to allow me to insert an LED to serve as a backup light.


A view of the front, showing the hitching spike that would go through the receiving hole on a drawbar (a design I cribbed off of Bachmann's Thomas range). Also showing that only one of the doors to the coal bay is currently installed.


Here's a closeup of one of the trucks. The frames are crude but serve well enough - I do need some springs for them though so that the trucks don't snag on the tender sides. I abandoned scratchbuilding wheels for now, and instead am using some wheelsets that JNXT over on the Tyco forums gave me. For mounting lugs on the tender chassis, I used a couple of small nuts.

And now for the main event:

Here's an angled view of the loco. There's still a little cleanup to do, and detail work as well (things like a cab interior and a frame for the bell, not to mention decals once I get some inkjet decal paper), but she's looking pretty good.


Here's a shot of the front, so you can get a good look at the pilot. The current coupler is a dummy, but things are set up to make swapping out easy should I decide I want to change that.


This shot focuses on the tender. Someone else on the Tyco forums, screenname of toptrain, sent me a big box full of old cars and parts and stuff. To my surprise and delight, there was an actual Mantua long haul tender in there. I decided to use that for this instead; I was having to repaint anyway, it already rode properly, it's set up to pick up power, and it goes nicely with the engine. But like I said, I will find a use for the scratchbuilt. I carefully sliced off the molded grab irons and drilled holes at their endpoints before painting, letting me easily fit separate, wire grab irons afterward.


A close-up of the gap between the cab and tender, showing the grab irons on the back of the cab as well as some of the cleanup I was talking about.


A view of the back of the tender, showing the separate grab irons I fitted there as well as the coupler cut bar. I haven't drilled out the lens in the backup light yet, need to dig out a small enough bit.


And a side view to close things out.

Last edited on Thu Apr 14th, 2016 09:31 pm by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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Okay, there we go. That's what I'm talking about.

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So, got some coming attractions (and one WIP) for you all:

Pictured are:
1 of my two Penn Line shorty full-domes
Roundhouse Pullman Palace series combine (Going to do it as either a buffet car or a club car)
Roundhouse Pullman Palace series diner
Gloor Craft Models tri-level open autorack craftsman kit
WIP semaphore signal, some parts taken from Bachmann dummy color-light signals, others from a used-up ink pen.

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Hi Brendan,

Nice cowcatcher, although they're colorblind and would miss the red color. The rebuild of the front end looks to have been successful. The locomotive looks the part with that new tender as well.

New projects look interesting.

Nigel

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Thank you Nigel. I'm also planning to scratchbuild an RPO to go with the Roundhouse Pullmans - found some references for an RPO in the same style, including a scale drawing - and hopefully some coaches.

Also, the red on the cowcatcher might be lost on the cows... but it certainly wouldn't be lost on the customers.

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I'd like to point out something about the Roundhouse Pullman Palace car trucks that I forgot to when showing work on the sleeping car earlier: According to the instructions, the trucks should have a molded-on tongue protruding from the bolster that keeps the centering spring aligned and in place. But this tongue is missing on the final product, meaning you have to glue the back of the centering spring to the bolster in order for the darn thing to work.

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Been working on the Gloor autorack kit (and the pastel freight cars project)



I think I used the wrong gauge of wire for that handrail. It said to use the #26 wire, and I didn't have a wire gauge so I tried to guess via comparing to a ruler. Is that #26 or is #26 thicker?

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Hi Brendan,

Higher gauge number, thinner the wire.

#26 is 0.0159", 0.404mm. You would need a gauge diameter tool or a micrometer to really tell differences between for example #24, #26 or #28. A ruler (even of the engineering type, mine goes to 1/64ths) doesn't cut it. In my experience you should probably go over-scale a tad anyway.

1" diameter handrail is 0.0132" in 1:87. #28 gauge (0.0126") would be closer. 15 thou' brass or phosphor-bronze rod would also be close (0.015") and slighter over-scale.

Nigel

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Well, I looked up that #26 was less than half a milimeter in diameter, and this looked to be fit that description. And it turns out I got it right, there were only 2 sizes of round wire provided with the kit and the other was #21.

I'm thinking of creating an underside-adapted version of the crank system from Bachmann's full-domes (when the trucks turn, the cranks make the coupler boxes pivot. It lets them take 18" radius curves despite being full-length) for the coupler boxes on this thing.

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Couple of updates. First, a handy coupler bodge:

I bought an eight-pair lot of ProtoMax couplers. They're Kadee #5 clones and require the same kind of separate copper centering spring... which I did not want to buy. So I did this instead: glued strips of aluminum to the sides. The trick to doing it is to cut the strips oversize at first, then trim them down after the Krazy Glue has set.

The second is the work begun on one of the shorty full-dome cars:

I cut out the two forward-most seats,  and some of the surrounding floor on the right-hand side. This has given a stairwell entry opening so that there's actually a way to get between the floors of the car, and made room for a landing.

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Home made whisker springs!

Cool.  :cool:

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Hi Brendan,

Aluminum is not known for being springy.

Nigel

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Thanks Max.

Nigel, that may be so, but something they do to it (Perhaps the rolling) when making soda cans out of it renders it springy. I installed and tested one coupler fitted with my homemade whiskers, and they work.

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It also worked well for this:
The Athearn streamlined passenger cars I got for Christmas were fitted with early (slightly more angular, and from before the gladhands were disguised as brake hoses) Kadee #4 couplers. But just the couplers, no draft gear. I've had little luck finding references for the #4 draft gear boxes, or finding any for sale. It was this that first lead me to experimenting with making whiskers with strips cut from soda cans. In this case, I glued a single strip to the back and then bent it. And it works. As does the replacement trip pin made from a piece of staple.

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Hi Brendan,

Ingenious, and cheaper than a #148.

Nigel

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Yes, and means I don't have to let perfectly good couplers go to waste

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Got some more projects because never enough projects (and there's even more that aren't shown)

One of them is another loco that I'm working on now, going to improve the detailing and such. A Union Pacific E7, made by Tyco. Needs glazing, separate grabs, interior details, and proper Blomberg sideframes for the trucks. I also want to change that "City of San Francisco" herald to a "City of Portland" one, purely for preference since that was the named streamliner that called at my old hometown of Pocatello.



Another is a used, old, undecorated Athearn(?) streamlined observation car. I'm painting it up in silver to look like the bare, shiny stainless steel preferred by the ATSF.

Last edited on Tue May 10th, 2016 03:08 am by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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Update on the observation car:

Exterior paint is mostly done.

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Looking good, Brendan.

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Thank you, Max.
Here's an update on the autorack (which has sadly gotten a bit shabby since the last photo due to breaking and having to be largely rebuilt):
I have installed the bridgeplates at one end, mounted such that they can pivot up and down like the real thing.
For those who might not know, autoracks are loaded by grouping them into a block that's backed against an adjustable-height ramp. The bridgeplates are lowered to allow automobiles to move from the loading ramp down the line.

Last edited on Thu May 12th, 2016 12:24 am by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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Another update on the autorack:


I've begun modifying the coupler boxes so that they can pivot. The sides of the plastic "tails" are cut at an angle to make adding homemade whiskers easy. I'm thinking of constructing mounts for them that are on spring-loaded rods. The idea there is to let them slide forward for extra cornering clearance but draw them back on straightaways to maintain proper distance.

I also got these:


One is for a 4-8-4, the other is for a 4-8-2. I misjudged the size of the 4-8-2 chassis' wheels, thought it was another 4-8-4 and was going to do a Union Pacific FEF-series with it - I even bought a suitable tender. Sigh. But it's not a total loss - it's still a perfectly good chassis, so I guess the Pegasus Bay Railroad will be gaining a Mountain (I had previously intended to use it to make UP 7002 after discovering it wasn't FEF material, but the drivers are too small). That'll let me put an extra tender I have to work.
The 4-8-4 chassis shown in the photo is going to be used for a streamlined 4-8-4, also for my fictitious Pegasus Bay Railroad. I have a poll going that pertains to it here. The 4-8-4 will be liveried the same as my Mantua Pacific, and use the tender I originally built for that loco.

Also in that lot was another set of eight drive wheels that so happen to be 68" in diameter. That brings me to a total of 16 68" drivers, and that means a certain other project can properly begin.

And here are some repaints in progress:


The coach is by Lima. I have painted the bogies silver, and am painting over the Amtrak stripes with silver as part of turning it into a Santa Fe streamlined coach. I have two more like it, but I need to make three more bogies since the other two only have one between them.
The boxcar is by Varney. I'm painting the body robin's egg blue, and the doors (not shown) buttercup yellow. These are the colors of one of the two boxcars in the "Lady Lionel" set that inspired my pink Pacific and the other pastel freight cars shown in this thread.

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Very interesting stuff, Brendan.   :thumbs

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Thank you, Max.


I'm now mostly done with the paint on the robin's egg blue boxcar. Most of what's left is the inside of the roof walk holes.

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Another new project that I'm hoping someone can help me with: sorting out the boom winching thread on this Tyco crane


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The things you guys make really impress me. Nice work.

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Hi Brendan,

Is this a working or static model? Both ends will attach to the drum. From memory (it's been a few years since I built one): There should be 2 sets of rollers, first set at the beginning of the jib around the jib pivot, second set at the end of the jib (the arm). The sequence should be drum-over first roller A-round second roller A-round first roller B-round second roller B-over first roller C-drum. Basically acts like a block and tackle. Could be even more rollers depending on the ratios required. Heavy lifting gear could have 5-6 sets of rollers. Plus there would probably have been a separate cable for the chain and hook. That would be one ended.

Nigel

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It's a working model, by Tyco. I took it apart to for better access while trying to sort out the mess the previous owner had made. It has a separate operating hook but I've left that off for now to keep it out of the way.

On Tyco's crane, as far as the mechanism for lifting the jib goes only the winch above the cabin is an actual drum. The other two points are pairs of molded pulleys that the thread has to run through. But your pointer might still be applicable.

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I'm away from home so I couldn't take new photos, but I do have a recent (but blurry) photo of my desk and I haven't updated since Wednesday.


My desk is a mess of tools and projects, which seems to be its default status. In no particular order, what you see here:
  • A WIP scratchbuilt trailer and a Tyco trailer to use for height comparison
  • A Union Pacific RPO by Rivarossi, on my desk for filing away of some surfaces so that the roof and glazing can be removed more easily
  • A Tyco unloading boxcar being painted (pink for body, lilac for doors. Paint now done, it just needs a roof hatch)
  • The lilac hopper back out for further progress on its paintjob
  • A pink gondola also having its paintjob worked on (now done)
  • 4-8-4 chassis and motor with drive wheels, with my scratchbuilt tender behind it. Awaiting construction of loco body as well as pilot and trailing trucks
  • Tyco operating crane car, dismantled for ease of sorting out the thread. (Taken care of since photo was taken)
  • Former derrick car being converted to a piggyback flatcar
Not shown is the work on the Accurail autorack, which I've been making homemade uprights for

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Still no photos of the other stuff yet. Sorry. But I do have a photo of another project:


This is an old Athearn dome car that I'm modifying with an interior and all that. I'm currently working on the important process of cutting out part of the floor and replacing it with a depressed section of floor because there needs to be vertical clearance under the dome for a room.

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Guess who's back! Sorry for being away so long. Have some updates, with more to come.


The Gloor autorack is built. Working on finishing the paintjob, there's a lot of little bare spots I'm having to deal with.

I've gotten back to work on the Roundhouse Pullman Palace cars. I'm substititing brown paint for wood panel texture here, hope that's not too much of a copout. I also created a template sheet for cutting out internal window frames - those would be conspicuous in their absence, especially as I plan on lighting the cars.
Also started on a new project:


It's a grand terminal station building. An interior is planned, since with those big windows it'd be a waste not to have one.

Last edited on Wed Sep 28th, 2016 11:46 am by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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Long-overdue photo of the second autorack



Three pastel boxcars. The yellow one is Athearn, the robin's egg blue one is Varney, the pink one is the Tyco Unloading Boxcar



Pink Mantua gondola, and the lilac Roundhouse hopper. Both also acting as temp storage for random bits



And finally getting down to business on the planned freelance 4-8-4. Can anyone identify the loco chassis I'm using? I know, but do you? :3

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Lots going on there, Brendan.  :thumbs

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Indeed, and now there's even more.

For instance, there's this motor I'm repairing. I accidentally trashed the upper insulator and one brush spring. So I've cut a new insulator to fit, and actually made (though it's not shown) a replacement spring, which I'll be trial-fitting once I have the LH pickup wires soldered to the pin that anchors the spring.


There's also this express reefer that I've been scratchbuilding. I'm almost done with it, at least as far as the body goes. Haven't started on the truck sideframes yet.

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So, I've got the body done and painted. The green isn't quite accurate I don't think, but it's the closest I had and I"m out of spare paint pots for blends. Still, it's got it done for now so I can move on to the roof.

I'm proud of the door hardware - in case it's hard to tell I made that myself. The locking bars are lengths of paperclip, with thin strips of paper rolled around the ends and middle. The handle is a snippet of wire glued to the side, with a sliver of paper over it to form the catch. The hinges are card, with holes poked in it to form dimples to act as rivet/nailhead detail, and snippets of wire to represent the joint. How well does the detail show in the photo?

Last edited on Fri Dec 23rd, 2016 01:45 am by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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So, here's the reefer's current state.
It's almost done, though I am going to repaint the green because I have hunter green now, which seems a better match for an REA reefer.
The truck frames are scratchbuilt from cardboard and other things.

Here's a shot of some of my first sideframes under construction (On subsequent cutouts, I left the bottoms of the W-iron sections intact):


And here's the first completed streamline truck:

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Progress, Brendan.  I like your springs.  :thumbs

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Thank you Max. Here is the streamlined observation car with the finished bogies fitted:

As well as an interior:


Speaking of interiors, here is an upgraded interior for a Bachmann 85' full dome:



I buit the stairs, the lower-level walls, the bar, the phone and furniture in the courier-nurse's room, the dumbwaiters, the body of the liquor cabinet (cabinet interior is a Paul Friedlund pic)

The dome car itself, repainted for the Pegasus Bay Railroad:


A GS-4 shell being painted up as one of the Pegasus Bay's "Strawberry Specials":



The Pegasus Bay Railroad's logo:


And what's on my desk at the moment:

A WIP scratchbuilt 16' fish van, a Baldwin DR-4-4-1500 "Sharknise" being painted up for the New York Central, and a Tyco Clementine gold car getting its cleats and reinforcing straps painted

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Bumping with an out-of-date progress pic of the fiah van:

A similarly-dated photo of some coach sides being marked out on cardboard (going to be an LNER Diagram 55 coach and matching brake):


And a photo of one of the LMS Bain eliptical-roof coaches sold in Bachmann's Thomas range, with the bogies and underframe weathered (they started off gloss black):

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Update with a project I don't believe I've posted here yet: a model of Daisy (a single-car version of a Class 101). Her body is made from two dummy Tri-Ang trailers (sawed the cab off one and the corridor end off another),
The motor bogie and the wheelsets in the other bogie are taken from an HO diesel; I transplanted the sideframes from the displaced bogie onto the motor one, and modified the axles of the wheelsets to ride in the journals of the non-powered bogie. I also cut a custom-fitted pickup from brass sheet and screwed it in place.

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And here's a pic of my fitting homemade buffers to the van chassis (as well as a homemade Spratt & Winkle-type coupler)

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Gah! Why didn't anyone tell me I'd forgot the photo? Well, here it is now.. not that it seems anyone will care...

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Didn't like to say :lol:


Ed

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Ed wrote: Didn't like to say :lol:


Ed

I would have appreciated it if you had.. :sad:

So, what do you think of all I've done?

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Interesting thread Brendan, you've done some quite amazing things with older models.

Obviously I know very little about the US outline stock, but it's nice to get a view on what others are doing.

Didn't mention the missing picture at 7:00am this morning my time, as I thought I might just be being daft and missed the obvious, and then I got side-tracked.

Keep it coming.



Ed

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It's a good idea to read the posts after you hit Send, Brendan.

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MaxSouthOz wrote: It's a good idea to read the posts after you hit Send, Brendan.
I know, I know. I just spaced on that this time because I was busy.
Thank you for the kind words Ed.

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Just so you know there are more of us reading the posts than just those who comment.  :lol:

BCDR
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Hi Brendan,

Take the lack of comments as approval. I for one am amazed at your talent for improvisation, adaptation and making believable models from cans of soda and odds and ends lying around. For frugal minds like mine it just shows what can be done.

Nigel

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I guess I never thought of it like that.. and thank you.


Got this pretty much finished, finally. Final paint color applied, finished painting the roof, got the printed decals glued on.


Getting close to done with the fish van. The buffers are on, the chassis has been painted and weathered, the body is mounted, the home made Sprat & Winkle-style couplers are installed and functional (except one is currently without the wire loop because I ran out of Krazy Glue)

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Coming back from a period of getting sidetracked, and have stuff to show for it.

First off, the fiah van now has a roof and both couplings, so it's done aside from graphics and weathering of the sides and roof


And the test build of my 48' container template

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Bit of a progress update:

The fish van's been weathered a bit on the sides and roof, looks a bit better now.
Finally almost done with converting a standard flat to a trailer flat.
And I've made some headway on one of the sides for my generator-baggage-dorm, with my first effort at homemade fluting for the sides
By the way, can anyone guess what's with the stubs of wire coming out of the container in my previous post?

Last edited on Sat Apr 15th, 2017 08:28 pm by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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For the record, the reason they're there is to simulate the midlocks used to hold the container in place, and they peg loosely (just enough to hold things together in motion) into the receiving locks on the Athearn cars, or on other containers.

So, yeah, making another update. I, um. I don't know if I still belong in this community after how horrible I've been, but I still wanted to share this.

So, here's the projects I've made progress on lately:

None of this is finished right now, but it's progressing nicely. There's a scratchbuilt 3-plank open wagon, the first of what I plan to be several (my minimum is five, but I hope to do more). There's a scratchbuilt (based on a July 1961 article in Railway Modeller by the Reverend W. Awdry) J70, which will be my model of Toby. And there's a scratchbuild LNER Diagram 65 (or similar) suburban brake to represent the RWS version of Clarabel. The in-progress roof for her can be seen at the absolute front of the picture, and the in-progress chassis can be seen at the back under the carriage body. The Bachmann 7-plank wagon is being used as a gauge for buffer placement.


A closeup of a lamp iron I made for Toby. He will of course be receiving a full set.

Last edited on Fri Mar 30th, 2018 11:50 pm by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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And some more progress. Last year, Dorsetmike helped me out in researching the Southern Railway's 32' CCT vans. I recently finally got around to putting that information to use in creating a template, and here's the first build:

As I was inspired to use these by Thomas the Tank Engine & Friends, this and most subsequent builds will run on bogies like the ones from the show were kitbashed to do. This particular build is destined to be part of the 'Flying Kipper' consist, and I have four more in progress to be post train vans.

Next, a progress update on the 3-plank wagon I showed earlier along with a show of the first build of my 32' bolster wagon template.


And finally, an update on Toby.

His body planking has been painted the closest thing I had to GER chocolate brown, and I've started making and fitting the windows. I've also mostly finished the metallic dark gray undercoat for the frame and sideplates.

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As Nigel said in an earlier post, it is amazing what you are putting together using material that most would lob in the trash can or recycling bin. Looking forward to seeing some of these on the tracks.
  Watching with interest so keep posting the progress

Cheers

  Matt

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Thank you Barchester, thank you very much. I too look forward to the day these ride the rails.
And here's two more in-progress projects (there's a reason I call myself a madman).


A six wheel milk siphon. The sides were a bit flimsy when originally cut out, but became much more solid after I glued the cross-braces on. (Gee, something becoming more sturdy after being braced? Amazing! Who'da thunk it? ;) )


There's also this, a tanker wagon. It's intended to duplicate the Tenmille tanker in 00 scale but I goofed on the template (fixed now), so the rivets on this first build don't match. I have thus decided to paint this one green and label it with "GB Lubricants" signage.

How did I do the rivets, you might ask? Simple, really. Part of the template is a rectangle measured to wrap around the tank, and it has the rivets marked on it. I glued that to cardstock, and from there I could just poke out the rivets with a pushpin like I do for other rivet detailing and then wrap this cardstock jacket around the tank's PVC core.

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Another update, finally.

Been at work on the chassis portion of these wagons, adding W-iron assemblies, buffers, and brake detail. And dawdling on the latter, finally started making proper headway on it today. Concentrating on the milk van right now since it's the most complex on that score

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A question. Should I compensate the middle axle on the milk van, or would having the wheels be blind suffice?

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I'm back. I sadly don't think I've made too much progress on standard gauge stuff since last update, but then again I may have slacked off on sharing even when I was still working on it.

Lately however I've been making good progress on narrow-gauge stuff for the Skarloey Railway. I've been drawing up templates:


And I've made good headway building one carriage, designated as Agnes (the 1st class coach):








There was much trial and error faffing with the coupling choice. I tried to homemake Greenwich couplings but ad difficulty cutting the pieces out. I tried homemade Bemo-type couplings (since those are what Rheneas comes with) but had issues with drilling out the shank and getting the loop size right (although I may try revisiting them with a different approach). I eventually drew up a template for narrow-gauge homemade Sprat & Winkle-type couplers, since I can cut those out reliably and they also end up working with Rheneas' stock couplings. Note that the hook is brass - the aluminum hooks I made in the past didn't hold up to further tests. I will be re-doing the existing hooks in brass and future hooks will also use brass.

Also been making headway on Beatrice, the guard's van:





I'm doing basing this build off of the real-life counterpart's 1911-1935 condition (Duckets and sliding doors on both sides)

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Looking good Brendan :thumbs

What sort of coupling will be on the other end.



Ed

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Ed wrote: Looking good Brendan :thumbs

What sort of coupling will be on the other end.



Ed

Thanks!
And it'll be the same type, I just haven't made it yet. I haven't even finished the first yet, it still needs the dropper chain.

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Hi Brendan,

Neat modeling. That 6 wheeler needs some lateral movement in the middle axle if you have tight track radii. If you have less than flat track you need a bit of vertical slop as well. 


Nigel

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I have a flat layout, but in the interest of versatility... do you have any recommendations on achieving that vertical slop room?

Did a test run of the coach chassis today, it seems to be viable:

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I finished setting up the loops on Beatrice's sliding doors and glued sections of matchstick up in the top to help hold the door rails when I install them. Haven't photographed that though.

I do however have pictures of my build on coach no. 4:


I'm doing this build in the configuration the real-world counterpart spent several decades in - that is, with the vent louvers over the doors and the top mouldings covered by 2 boards either side.

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Are you putting any additional weight in, Brendan


Ed

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Yes I am, Ed. Thank you for reminding me to put up photos of that:


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Looking good, I do like to see card being used in different ways.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
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Thanks! Cardstock and cardboard are such versatile materials, and cheap too.

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Hi Brendan,

Nice build. 

Vertical slop - use a drill bit or round needle file and increase the pinpoint axle hole on one side. Not too much. The other way is to put one end of the axle in the drill and use some emery to reduce the angle. Old wheelsets usually have some slop in the pinpoints. One of those pinpoint reamers works if the axle  box is plastic.

Nigel

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Thanks.

And I see. My usual axlebox is actually a thin section of plastic tubing of enough diameter to let the axle pinpoints roll freely (generally cut from a used-up or otherwise dead ink tube from a pen). On non-bogied stock it's usually bracketed between 2 plasticard strips that are perpendicular to the chassis (reinforced by angled strips to create the W-irons).

I had actually been thinking of cheating on the milk van's center axle by building up a box on the underframe that would hold the axle loosely by the middle, with the box being narrow enough to allow side-slop. After you pointed out the need for vertical slop, I pondered making the slot for the axle extra-deep. Would any of that work?

Last edited on Tue Feb 12th, 2019 03:36 pm by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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Hi Brendan,

Yes. You could add a thin strip of P/B or brass as a leaf spring. The contacts in Lima bogies used this arrangement for pickup and springing. Sping, axle, cover plate.


Nigel

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A couple quick updates.

First, I realized I'd made the chassis for the first Skarloey Railway coach ride too high. Fixed now.


Second, I scored an old Rosebud Kitmaster coach (Kit 14, a BR Mk1 Corridor 2nd) off eBay for cheap. It had no interior, since the Kitmaster coaches didn't include those, a couple pieces of glazing had popped out and fallen in, and the weight was loose inside. So, first step was to pop the roof off. I got a bit impatient towards the end and cracked the body a bit more than it already was, but that will fix up easily.
I'm going to pop the rest of the glazing out temporarily so I can paint or texture-paper the inside walls, and build an interior.

Last edited on Thu Feb 14th, 2019 01:15 pm by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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Further progress!


Got the chassis built for coach no. 4


Got the ends and sides for coach no. 2 cut out, and the "meat" of the chassis assembled


Also got the inner parts of the mouldings for coach no. 3 cut out (photo taken before I finished).
...Yes, I grabbed these by mistake. But I was a good way into it before noticing and since I'd have had to do it eventually anyway I decided to just continue.

Marty
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Yes..... absolute madman :mutley
But possibly some of the best scratchbuilt card modelling of stock i’ve ever seen. I like your attention to detail, the fact that you are modelling the chassis in card and that you are modelling Sodor Railways is an added bonus.

Carry on, following along with your exercise in insanity.

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Marty wrote: Yes..... absolute madman :mutley
But possibly some of the best scratchbuilt card modelling of stock i’ve ever seen. I like your attention to detail, the fact that you are modelling the chassis in card and that you are modelling Sodor Railways is an added bonus.

Carry on, following along with your exercise in insanity.

Thank you for the kind words, Marty.

Finally getting around to another progress update:






Got the body and removable roof of coach no. 2 together, and fitted the bufferbeams, buffers, and W-irons to the chassis. Going to double-check the axlebox alignment before adding the running boards and journal detail.



I got the removable roof for No. 4 built (please ignore that it's not all the way on in the 2nd photo)


Got the sides cut out for coach no. 3


And I fitted a proper screw lug to the trailing truck I kitbashed for my GS-4. I still need to build the booster cylinders before I can paint it though.

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More progress has been made.


The chassis for coach no. 2 is largely completed


The ends and sides and mouldings for coach no. 3 are all together


As a special treat for this last one, I've decided to go into a bit more detail on the process. Such as how I build up the chassis sides - I cut out these formers, and glue them to successive layers of cardboard until the chassis side walls are the right height.


As for the seat assemblies, I cut out the seat back and make sure it fits properly between the coach sides, and then glue the bench or benches to it (depending on whether it's at the end).


Also making a Skarloey Railway water tower. Just kinda thrown together with rough measurements eyeballed from photos of the Dolgoch Station tower, plus a little height added to compensate for the height of the E-Z Track roadbed. I did precisely measure the width of the trough, based on Rheneas' water filler pipe.


Also got two more Kitmasters to restore - a composite and a brake.

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Yet more progress!


After the chassis side walls have been built up to the required height, they are glued to the chassis deck top.


Once the seats have all been glued in between the sides, the carbody floor is glued on underneath.


Returning to the chassis, the bufferbeams are built up the same way as the side walls, but only to three layers total, before being glued on.


The roof arch supports are cut out, built up by one layer, and then glued to the roof underbase (after I've made sure it fits).


The roof is then cut out, scored several times along its length with the back of a Husky knife tip to allow it to fold easily, and then glued to the arch supports.


After the roof is glued on, a paper "skin" is cut out and glued to it to hide the scoring. At this point I set the roof and the coach body aside for now.


Back to the chassis. I measure and mark where the W-irons should be, then cut them out and glue them on. After they're glued on, I glue plasticard strips on behind them; these strips strengthen them and will serve as anchors for the axleboxes.


About this time I'm also building up the buffers. I start by marking the desired shank length on a toothpick or sometimes a piece of sprue. I then cut it off slightly longer than that and file it down to the marks. Once the shank is prepared I wrap a strip of paper around one end to create the outer tube of the buffer. Then I cut out the buffer head and glue it to the other end.


I glue each buffer to one of the marked spots on the bufferbeams as it is finished. I also cut out sections of pen tube to serve as the axleboxes and glue them to the plasticard strips behind the W-irons.


A show of the wheels in place, making sure they fit.


Once I can put the wheelsets on, I check them for rolling and alignment with a couple pieces of track including a terminal rerailer. If it can roll through the rerailer without issue, the alignment should be good.

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Updates on three different things this time!


First, the next step on Skarloey Railway Coach No. 3. After the wheel alignment and rolling have been determined to be satisfactory, I remove the wheelsets for the time being. Then I mark the points for these eight little nub posts, cut out said nub posts, and glue them on. These will form the outer anchors for the leaf springs.

The next thing requires some background info.

As you can see here, Tyco's model of the EMD E7 doesn't have EMD sideframes on its trucks. All of Tyco's six-axle diesel trucks used a modified version of the Alco C630 sideframes with equidistant axleboxes.


I have decided to make custom E-series sideframes for it by cutting and shutting some Bachmann F-series sideframes (since they're similar and I got them for cheap). I've had these for some time, but I hadn't got around to the project until now.


One of the displaced Tyco sideframes yielded the cylinders I needed for the homemade trailing truck.

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Still more updates! First is that E7 sideframe

Finished the cutting and shutting. Had to use insert strips of card in several spots to get the plastic pieces to actually stay glued to each other.

Next up is the progress on Skarloey Railway coach no. 3:

With the anchors fitted I could do the leaf springs. They're made from three layers of card glued together. I cut a long strip of this triple-layered card, bend it, then measure, mark, and cut each segment in situ. Apologies for the picture quality.


After that, I do the running boards.First, I measure and mark where the little bracket pieces (which are just tiny strips of cardboard) should go. Then I cut out the running boards and glue on said bracket pieces, and then I mount the running boards to rthe chassis.


At this point, I do the journals. These are made from sections of a matchstick that's been split in half lengthwise. I mark a segment, notch it horizontally and glue in a snippet of wire, then cut it off and glue it to the chassis. Repeat until all four are done.


After that, I build up two cardboard blocks that go behind the bufferbeams. These will serve as mounting points for the couplers. Then I glue down the weights.

With the other carriages' chassis all done save for a minor detail, I turned my attention back to the guard's van chassis, which had some catching up to do (leaf springs, journals, plasticard strips, axleboxes, outer buffer tubes) plus some extra work in the form of the brake rigging.

Well, I get all that done. But I made a miscalculation of height and positioning that led to me having to go back and fudge something.

Had to snip out the middle of one rod to give one of the wheelsets clearance. Thankfully you'd have a hard time seeing it with the chassis right-side up.

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Now thats dedicated card modelling and i applaud you for what you have achieved.

True scratchbuilding

Brian

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Think you Brian. I hope to start on painting them today.

Sol
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Briperran wrote: Now thats dedicated card modelling and I applaud you for what you have achieved.

True scratchbuilding

Brian

and I agree with Brian totally !!! :thumbs

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Amazing work Brendan, I am genuinely impressed with your modelling

I've logged your tip in my memory bank for using an intermediate layer of paper or card stock to stick awkward plastics together. Top tip, thanks.

Bill


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Hi Brendan,

Amazing work.

Nigel

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Gosh, thanks so much all of you! :)

I may as well give a quick progress update:

A shot of the Skarloey Railway vintage train, getting closer to ready to paint (Note: The carbodies aren't glued down yet, they're just resting on the chassis for photography purposes). Since this photo was taken I've added the "lobster pots" where the steam heat lines would attach, and been working on door handles and handrails. I've gotten those done on coaches 1 through 3 so far.

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Wow! I am truly staggered at what you have created out of card - I would not have thought it possible.  And a great thread showing the progress, I have really enjoyed it.  Not that I would EVER have a go myself - it really would be insanity and I could never match your craftsmanship.
Great stuff!

Michael

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Thank you many times over.


I've gotten started on painting the guard's van, which means I should be able to actually fit the doors and duckets soon.


Over the past few days I finally finished detailing the cartazzi for the GS-4 and yesterday I started painting it.


I also finally got going on building and painting one of my Airfix Class B tankers.

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More updates, starting with progress on that tanker.


The only part left to fit is the ladders (and maaayybe the decorative coupling hooks). Then I can do the decals, detail and touchup painting, and weathering.


The Skarloey Railway guard's van has progressed considerably, and a bit further still since this picture. At this point it's just waiting on me to cut out and fit the flooring detail paper.


A final pre-painting shot on coach no. 3, showing the lobster pot on one end as well as the door detail (hinges, handles, and handrails). The other side is much the same, except that as per the real-life counterpart there are no handrails there. The hinges are measured to about the right size and cut from staples. The handles and handrails are made from twist tie wire marked and cut (and bent, in the case of the handrails).


Coach no. 4 has already been undergoing painting. The blue on the outside is done, bu the burnt sienna on the inside could stand some touching up before I do the white on the window surrounds.


In the hopes of saving at least some time, I'm painting the chassis for coaches 1 thru 4 as a group.

Last edited on Wed Mar 20th, 2019 06:26 am by ZeldaTheSwordsman

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So how about some progress on the milk van?

I finished up the brake rodding, so al that's missing now on the brake gear front is the vacuum brake cylinder.

I didn't have any spare wheelsets with no axlepoints, and I was reluctant to remove the axlepoints from the spare wheelsets I do have, so instead of a box around the middle of the axle I made extra-roomy axleboxes.

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So, on the decal sheet for the Esso tank wagon, there's a decal that says in red lettering "B.R. TANK WAGON CLASS B". Where is that meant to go, if anywhere? The instructions don't mention it.

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Im shocked Brendan   That tanker is plastic :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :mutley :mutley :mutley


Brian

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Oi, I do work with plastic models too! exclam:

Now, if'n's you're quite done being a smart alec, have you got any advice on that decal? :tongue

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:hmm Well unfortunately the best i can come up with about where the decal goes is on the tanker somewhere.

Which i realise is absolutely no help whatsoever :lol:

Brian

ZeldaTheSwordsman
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No worries. Hopefully someone will have an answer before I go and do something daft

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Briperran wrote: :hmm Well unfortunately the best i can come up with about where the decal goes is on the tanker somewhere.

Which i realise is absolutely no help whatsoever :lol:

Brian
I'm with Brian on this.  I have googled images.  It was clearly a particular class of wagon, but I haven't seen it written on any actual models, or real wagons....Someone will know, I'm sure

Michael

BCDR
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"Airfix tank wagon oo" images.

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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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Research and input from people has confirmed that despite being on the decal sheet that particular label isn't actually meant to go anywhere.
And now, more progress on the Skarloey Railway coaches!

Painting on the bodies of coaches 1 through 3 is underway.


I have finished up painting the chassis for coaches 1 through 4.


And, as you could probably tell from the previous photo, the body for coach no. 4 has been fully painted, and glazed, and glued to the chassis. It still needs some work - I still need to do the frames for the door windows, and to finish painting the roof.

Briperran
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Coming on really well there Brendan.

What type of paint do you find works well when painting on card Brendan?

Brian

ZeldaTheSwordsman
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Thanks.
And I just use the same cheap craft store acrylics I use for everything else; they seem to work fine. The main brands I use are Craft Smart and Apple Barrel.

EDIT: By the way, guess what's finally had its decals applied?

Yep, the Airfix Esso Class B tank wagon. Only had a couple hiccups with them.

Last edited on Wed Mar 27th, 2019 06:12 pm by ZeldaTheSwordsman

ZeldaTheSwordsman
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With the tanker decaled, I've since been working on painting the details and weathering it. I've also painted the decorative screw-link couplings and dry-fitted them,as a placeholder while the tanker waits for me to do up some operating couplers for it.


Finally made a vacuum brake cylinder for the milk van chassis, completing the brake gear at long last. I also added the two remaining journals it needed and finished the buffers, and have started painting it. I've been painting the body too. Going to need a good way to whomp up some milk churns soon.


I've also gotten the other three Skarloey Railway coaches painted up pretty much to my satisfaction, and have started glazing them.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
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Haven't made too much further progress on the milk van and Skarloey Railway coaches. However, I do have something to report.
An Airfix 14xx, which shall become my model of Oliver. I will strip off the BR lining and emblems, and the numbering, and give it GWR shirtbutton emblems and renumber it to 1436 with transfers and plates from Fox. I also want to add auto-gear to it. Where all sells auto-gear detailing parts?

ZeldaTheSwordsman
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Well, um. I at least have some progress on the milk siphon:



I've also been making progress on my Airfix level crossing. Is this coloration for the cobblestones remotely realistic?

I've also acquired a Bachmann 2-10-4. Runs but needs a tender

Campaman
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Cobblestones tend to be a dark grey as they are usually granite.

Oh, and by the way, the decal that you mention on the tank wagon kit is just the description of the kit, most airfix kits have the kit description on the decal sheet, I think its just so you know which kit they belong to.

I find it useful as I will build a few kits then dump the packaging, then they will be painted and decaled as a batch when I get the airbush out.

ZeldaTheSwordsman
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Huh, I thought they had a lot more variance than that... I guess maybe it's different in the UK

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Red, pink, rose, all common forms of granite. Check the web for red granite.

Nigel

ZeldaTheSwordsman
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BCDR wrote: Red, pink, rose, all common forms of granite. Check the web for red granite.

Nigel
Thanks for the tip
Progress


                 

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