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MaxSouthOz
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Starting from the begining . . .



















































































































https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_7T7OUT8yw











Blossom is site manager.















Still building track.

It's all pretty much self explanatory.  The photos jump from topic to topic, but they show the build in chronological order.

gormo
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By Golly Max.....you`re setting the bar high mate!!!!
Very neat and tidy and superbly done old son.....a work of art in the making..:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs
:cheers

Gormo.........PS...Happy New Year !!!!:cheers:cheers:cheers:cheers

MaxSouthOz
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Happy New Year to you and yours as well, Gormo.    :cheers

Thanks for your kind words.

I've actually redone the whole thread as it got out of order.

Cheers

Phil.c
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All what Gormo said Max, outstanding stuff....and BIG!

Happy New Year!

Phil

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A remarkable photo series which is an exceptional example of every picture tells a story. It's masterful Max, acting not only as a tribute to your skills, but also an aspirational incentive to us all. Well, with just a tad more practise! Experience counts in everything we do!

Back to my Scalescenes practice pieces!

Welcome to 2016 :)

Bill ;-)

 

MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, guys.
Happy New Year to you.  :cheers

Ed
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It's true Max, big is beautiful :thumbs

Don't remember seeing the video on your original thread, very good :thumbs (especially like the seal train spotter :lol:)



Ed

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Ha ha.  Thanks, Ed.

MaxSouthOz
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I've finally finished faffing about with the blue GP 38-2.  I swapped the decoder for a Loksound Select L and it has made a significant difference.  The slight moaning from the motor is easily masked by the sounds from the decoder.



I used the same sound project as I used for the Atlas SDP-35.
I can always change it later.


Ed
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Looks and sounds nice Max :thumbs

MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, Ed.

The beauty of Loksound is that I can pop a new sound project in if I get sick of this one.

Marty
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You'll inspire a whole new generation of modellers with that beast at shows Max! What a beauty.

Marty

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Marty wrote: You'll inspire a whole new generation of modellers with that beast at shows Max! What a beauty.

Marty

agree with Marty, brill, nice one Max
:thumbs:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, guys.

Shows eh?   :hmm

Marty
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Wasn't that the reason for the modular construction of this layout Max... Or am I getting layouts mixed up again?

Wouldn't be the first time.

Marty

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It's designed so that I can disassemble it and reassemble it in the Old Folks Home, Marty.  :cool:

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MaxSouthOz wrote: It's designed so that I can disassemble it and reassemble it in the Old Folks Home, Marty.  :cool:

and Max hasn't long to go !!  :mutley:pedal

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Thank you.  Save a place for me.  :lol:

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Just make sure you let me know which old folks home you`re in Max, so I can put in my application for transfer.
:mutley  :cheers  Gormo

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:mutley

MaxSouthOz
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With the speed of a retarded glacier, the track laying creeps towards the end of the plank . . .



All ties have been divided and the continuity is correct.

This is the main intersection where four of the turnouts are close coupled.

Next job is to install the Tam Valley servo controllers and see if any of the point rails will move.  :lol:

Phil.c
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Looks great Max.

Phil

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Thanks, Phil.  A bit of a milestone.

Marty
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Fascinating bit of track work Max. I can understand the necessity of construction to fit into the space and the subsequent operations challenge should be entertaining.

I was comparing the size of the servos to the track and thinking, wow, how small they are... Then I remembered that your modelling 0 gauge. :lol:

Steady as she goes.

Marty

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Thanks, Marty.

MaxSouthOz
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Couldn't resist.  I had to finish the track work.  I'm over it!


MaxSouthOz
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Now for the acid test.  Everyone knows by now my dislike of solenoids and stall motors.  I use model aeroplane servos, because they are quiet and don't smash the turnouts.  Did I mention that they are quiet?

The servos have been hooked up to the Tam Valley Octopus 111a.  I also bought the Octocoder plug-in board, which provides an interface for the DCC system.

http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/products/octopusservodriver.html 



There is also a plug-in programmer, the Octo 111 Remote, which you can see to the right of the Lenz.  I fixed it to a piece of 16 mm MDF (with the LRF option), to give it some mass.

This offering from Tam Valley is amazing.  A couple of presses on the Remote, and the Octopus goes through a set up programme, sensing the proclivities of each turnout.  Each run takes about a minute and the servo is set up for optimum performance.

At the end of the run, a simple press of a button and the servo swaps ends if it isn't aligned with the (+) closed position.

Added to that, the Octopus stops every servo from buzzing, once the travel stops.  The servos remain completely quiet during their non-operating time.  A quantum leap from the old SwitchPilots®, I must say.

What an absolute pleasure to find a product which does what it says on the tin.  :thumbs

gdaysydney
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What brand of servo motors are you using Max?

MaxSouthOz
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Hi Dave

After testing many brands, I've found the Power HD High Performance HD-1800A to be the quietest.

They weigh 8 grams and have a torque rating of 1.3/1.0 kg-cm

Plenty enough to bend the Code 143 point rails.

Silver Fox
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been toying with that sysdtam myself,got my servo`s from china very quiet and cheap,
did mine with dpdt switch and press to make buttons,but I do fancy the set-up you have,video maybe?
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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Hi Owen

I hope that your chemo is working out for you.

I did see a video on YouTube about it, but I can't find it now.  :cry:

I can try to make one myself.  Which bits are you wanting to see?

Silver Fox
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thanks Max,no need for vid Ihave that one on youtube too,at the mo Iam setting mysemaphore sigs with them,
as for chemo, it is all going well so far,only bit Idon`t like is having a pump on for 48 hrs at a time,but then Ithoght them bum bags looked stupid too:lol:
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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More impressive modelling here Max. I really like the dock side and water.

allan downes
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The way to go Max. Absolutely magnificent !

Do  you employ a full time cleaner  coz I've never seen a workshop as clean and organised as that !

This is mine, AFTER a clean up !





 

Last edited on Tue Jan 19th, 2016 04:20 pm by allan downes

MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, Guys.

I guess that I'm just a neat freak, Allan.  :lol:

allan downes
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MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, Guys.

I guess that I'm just a neat freak, Allan.  :lol:

And a bloody clever one at that mate !

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Thank you, Allan.

Kindred spirits?

MaxSouthOz
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The next step is to test all of the turnouts using a locomotive.


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Exiting times mate, first train to run is great, hope there are no gremlins in there for you.


Pete.

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Thanks, Pete.

There are few Graemlins, but Sol is coming over this afternoon to help sort it out.

Cheers

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Doctor Solly has attended this afternoon and we spent a pleasant afternoon getting all of the bugs out of the system.

All good.   :thumbs



Now to install the buses on the other two modules, ready for the Block detectors, which are supposed to arrive next week.

Marty
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Where would we be without Sol eh? Major milestone there Max... Trains running over your hand made points! How did they go?

Marty

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It went well thanks, Marty.

We were able to eyeball the wheels with torches (flashlights), from both sides - to get the final tweaking done.

O scale locos typically have about 0.5 mm run out (wobbly wheels), so getting the back to backs right is nearly impossible.

The turnouts have to be pretty well spot on to allow for that.

Also with monster O rolling stock, any unevenness in the track is very obvious.

I'm happy that we've got it all running smoothly.  :thumbs

Now to get back underneath and install the buses.  :cool:

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Coming along a treat Max.
A lot has progressed whilst I've been away in Tassie. Must be thrilled having the trains/locos running. :thumbs Your trackwork looks as if it shouldn't cause any issue, as your work is very meticulous.

Cheers, Gary.

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Thanks, Gary.  :thumbs

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Keeping a very close eye on all this Max. Looking fabulous - as expected of course !

Cheers.

Allan

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Thanks, Allan.

No pressure, then.  :lol:

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Do you buy your ballast in 1cwt bags for O gauge Max :lol:

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Pity he doesn't live in Dorset he could take a bucket or two down the Chesil beach (pebbles in 4th pic look about right for 0 gauge) and these's enough of 'em!


https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=chesil+beach+images&biw=1269&bih=571&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiR99v3m8PKAhXE7SYKHazNBSUQsAQIHg#imgrc=M66-k1zKV2eHkM%3A

MaxSouthOz
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:lol:  Most of the layout will have the rails buried, Phil - so no need.

I did do one tiny bit . . .



Interestingly, I used HO ballast because I liked the look of it.

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Dorsetmike wrote: Pity he doesn't live in Dorset he could take a bucket or two down the Chesil beach (pebbles in 4th pic look about right for 0 gauge) and there's enough of 'em!


https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=chesil+beach+images&biw=1269&bih=571&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiR99v3m8PKAhXE7SYKHazNBSUQsAQIHg#imgrc=M66-k1zKV2eHkM%3A

There's an interesting bit of track work about 1/4 of the way down, Mike.  :shock:

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That beach stretches for miles, in places it's quite steep; I recall fishing there a few years back when staying at a camp site close by, a mother and her kids strolled by about mid day when the tide was fairly low, they came back about 5 pm by which time the tide was near full, on seeing it one of the kids proclaimed "ooooh look mum, someone's filled it up" :roll:

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Finally.  The Block detectors and feedback modules have arrived.



Tomorrow is the Australia Day (the Aboriginies call it Invasion Day), Holiday so I should be able to get a good run at completing the track wiring.

Here is my working diagram . . .



Hopefully I've calculated it correctly.  :lol:

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What's a 'block' and what does it do ?

Duh.

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Hi Allan

The layout will be completely controlled by a computer, using software called Railroad & Co.

http://www.freiwald.com/pages/index.html

As trains enter and leave the Blocks, the detectors make the software aware of their presence.

The computer can then drive trains around the layout from Block to Block.

The computer acts like a cab controller and keeps tabs on the trains via the Block detectors while it drives them around.

I hope that potted explanation makes some sense.

It means that I can sit and watch trains.  :lol:

Here's my HO layout doing the same thing . . .

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=13158&forum_id=151

Cheers

allan downes
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I knew that...

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:mutley

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The first module has four Block detectors.

Here is a shot of three of them.




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Extremely neat Max,almost OCD standard.Seriously though it looks great,nothing like mine at all.:thumbs

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Thanks, Alan.

Only six more to go - and then the feedback units.  :roll:

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Nice neat wiring there Max, makes mine look like my grannies knitting basket!

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Thanks, Ron.  :cool:

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Are they sticky backed cable guides Max?
And if so how confident are you of them remaining stuck?
I'm having the devils time with some double sided sticky tape that is MEANT to be holding my relays to the underside of the baseboard.
cheers
Marty

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Yes, Marty.

I have occasionally put one in the wrong place and they are the very devil to get off again - even after a few seconds.

I have to scrape the DST off and cut some more from a roll that I have.

I have DST holding lots of stuff and it's very strong.

Maybe you have the "cheap" stuff.  :lol:

Marty
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More than likely... I think I found it in a box somewhere and thought it might be useful. :lol:


Glad yours works.


Marty

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Thanks, Marty.

Now, the last of the LB 101's is in.

Here's a shot, showing the working arrangement.  I've got a wooden box with a couple of cushions on it.  Perfect.  I can sit there for hours.



This is under the centre module, and shows the Lenz and its power pack and the 12 Volt Regulated DC power supply on the left.

The two buses are visible at the top, and the dark cable is the XpressNet bus.

The little gizmo on the left is the HotShot HS-31 speedometer from Boulder Creek Engineering.

http://www.bouldercreekengineering.com

There is a 12 pin plug assembly in each corner to transfer power and/or data to and from the other modules.

The next job is to install the LR 101 feedback units.

Cheers

allan downes
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MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, Marty.

  I've got a wooden box with a couple of cushions on it.  Perfect.  I can sit there for hours.




Would that be sit or sleep Max? 

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There's too much fun to had to waste time sleeping, Allan.  :It's a no no

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OK  Modules one and three completed.

Here's a shot of module one . . .



Here you can see three of the four Block detectors.  Each one services two Blocks; so there are eight Blocks in module one.

The detectors are fed from the DCC bus above, and they in turn power the track in each Block.  They monitor the Block and detect any variations in the current, which they pass to the feed back unit - which is the grey box on the right.

The FBU reports to the computer via the DCC command station.  I have addressed this one 71 so all of the Blocks are now identified as 71-1 through to 71-8.  Now when a train enters or leaves a Block, the software registers that happening.

The turnouts are fed undetected power, as the trains are only passing through.  The computer is expecting the train to appear in the Block next to the turnout and continues to run the programme, once it sees it.

Clear as mud?  :lol:


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...and it is that simple...! Well, maybe to some. I admire the work going on here but it will take me a while to understand it all, and ofcourse RR&Co ! :roll:

The wiring under the layout is well thought out and very neat. Do you label your wires or is that all on a wiring schematic ??

Cheers, Gary.

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Hi Gary

The wires just go where they go, I'm afraid.

The Blocks are labeled and then connected up.

I hope to post up something explanatory once I've finished wiring the last module.

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MaxSouthOz wrote: Hi Gary

The wires just go where they go, I'm afraid.




I wired a layout up like that once and the electricity didn't know what to do when it got there so set fire to everything.

Allan

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Hi Max,

Your wiring always impresses me. If I am ever tempted into into O-scale again (much bigger bang for the money than HO/OO) I think I would forget the track wiring and go for radio DCC control and battery power with a recharging spur.

Nigel

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Ha Ha  Sounds familiar, Allan.  :lol:  Been there.

Thanks, Nigel.  I do like the idea of battery power - no track cleaning.

I don't know if it will work with RailRoad & Co?

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There will be a short intermission now that the track laying is done.

I'm off to scratch build some rolling stock.

I'll start a new thread when I get going.

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While I'm waiting for the last shipment of muscle wire, I've extended the gauntlet tracks, as they were too short for couplers to line up when retrieving wagons.



I've added another 14" (355 mm).  It will encroach on where the shipwright's building was to go, but it can't be helped.

My next job is to get the mimic panel built.

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I have been caughtlikethat with uncouplers quite a few times.......you think it will work but just a slight departure from the straight and you are screwed.

I like the boat on the hard.......looks great......how are you going to model the barnacles on the ground around it?:lol:

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Blown away by this Max.  The board engineering is awesome - makes the boards I just built look sick.  Loving the hand built track, you must have a closet full of hair shirts.  The standard of modelling is also excellent from what I can see.

Genius!

Having just turned 60, I had a Paul on the road to Damascus moment and decided to have a flutter with O gauge myself.  Nothing so grandiose as yours but something to play with and maybe show.  I've ordered the Dapol Cl 08 w/sound which I should get in a couple of months.  I'm sure the purists will knock it but the model seems to be pretty good value, esp. if I get away without paying tax (I usually do).

Great fun.

John

 

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Yes, John D.  The track has to be straight.  Uncoupling on a curve is no trouble with the muscle wires, but it's a fine thing to get them to stay together on bends.  Still working on that.  :lol:

There are lots of possibilities for the area around the slipway.  :cool:

Thanks, John B.  I'll look forward to seeing your efforts.

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Viola!  A mimic panel.


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a better looking one than mine - VBG Max

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Thanks, Sol.  It's because it's got less in it.  :lol:

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Have to ask, who is Viola?

Neat job as usual Max.  When you say "mimic", I suppose that this isn't a control panel in the usual sense.  With DCC there is no need for one and where wiring can be massively reduced. 

I recall my old control panel had wires running back and forth from points and track breaks - a terrible jumble of wires.  Then there were switches to wire up as well.  A proper nightmare.

John

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Thanks, John.  It's supposed to be a play on the French word, voila.    :lol:

The turnouts are controlled by the DCC system, so all I'm really left with is the point rails display.

The panel is galvanised iron, which will carry the magnetic car indicators during the contests.

There will be teams of three.  A driver, a shunter who operates the couplers by DCC and a yard man operating the turnouts.

The panel is vital for the yard man, as the layout has dead frogs; so if the loco runs the turnouts, it will derail.

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Wow I wish my wiring looked that good, I love this layout

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Thanks, Jim.

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Great competition concept Max. Play as many times as you want. $5 ea per play and winner takes all?

The queue will be out the door.

:lol:

Marty

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Now, there's an idea, Marty.  :thumbs

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It works!



Eventually it will sit on top of the warehouses.

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MaxSouthOz wrote: It works!

 

Well of course it does :mutley


:thumbs


Ed




Last edited on Mon Jul 4th, 2016 03:14 pm by Ed

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Nice!

Marty

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Thanks.

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Job well done Max!

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Thanks, Phil.

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I've started on the buildings.  The first one is the warehouse . . .



There will be another building to its left - probably a gable roofed warehouse.  They are in relatively low relief, which will allow me room for a street scene behind; with the Profiling track as a street track.

I've made some markers for the mimic panel.  It needs to be on top of the warehouse for operating days.

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Hi Max, looking impressive.  The warehouse appears to be something more than card - it looks like MDF to me.

The control panel on top of the warehouse looks a bit awkward to use - or did I miss something?

Those ships are marvelous too - what a man of many parts you are.

John


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Thanks, John.

It's 3 mm MDF with 9 mm x 9 mm Oak stiffeners.  It will have Scalescenes 200 gsm card printed in the laser printer @ x 200 to cover it.  There are lots more profiles to add - buttresses etc.  There will be awnings over the doors, lights etc., etc.

The doors will be Evergreen styrene grooved siding in the style of roller doors, which will open upwards using servos.

The panel is just a mimic panel to show the orientation of the turnouts.  The white knobs are just magnetic tokens with the same numbers as the addresses of the wagon decoders.  They are moved into position and then the operators have to shunt them into their places.

The turnouts are operated by DCC.

The boats are "rescued."  When I tire of the buildings, I can go back to them.

I've still got to finish the sea, as well.  :shock:


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I might have known that Scalescenes would feature.  Johns' work is excellent and I intend to have a bash myself.  I suppose regular old card won't cut it for buildings this size.

Ah, I thought I was seeing the control panel itself - missed the plot there.

Plenty of time yet to do all the things we'd like to - :roll:

John

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I wouldn't like to try lifting that Max !

Can't wait to see it finished.

Allan

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Hi Allan.  I haven't weighed it, but it's quite manageable.  It's mostly air.  :lol:

It's basically two pieces of 3 mm MDF 250 mm x 1700 and one piece 150 mm x 1700.

It's a bit awkward as I only have one shoulder with a working rotator cuff.  The main challenge is the distance that it is from the side of the layout.

When I get the framing finished, I'll take a piccie.

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For a guy with only one shoulder Max you're totally amazing !

Allan with two shoulders and only half as amazing.

Last edited on Sun Jul 24th, 2016 03:39 pm by allan downes

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Not so, Allan.  I watch your every move and try to copy.  :lol:

Anyway, I've taken a shot of the carcass . . .



It bears some explanatory notes.  The cross members are being glued to some plates which are across the joints to the side rails.  I've put the roof panel into the bottom to keep it all square while the glue sets up.

The plates for the bottom bearers can be seen up against the inside of the roof panel.

It will be light and strong; like an aeroplane wing.  I will have access to fit the floor (which will only be partway across), and the doors and their opening mechanisms.

I hope that helps.  :lol:

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Well Max, and though you say you copy me, I would call that advanced carpentry whereas a bag of nails and a hammer is about as advanced as I get !

Following this with great interest Sir.

Allan.

Last edited on Mon Jul 25th, 2016 01:40 pm by allan downes

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I'm loving watching this layout progress it looks so good

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Thanks, Jim.

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Max, great progress. It looks very clean and smart in your railway room, do you, cut your MDF elswhere or do you have some super-dooper dust extraction kit?

Doug

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Thanks, Doug.

I have a workshop adjacent to the train room.

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No cleaning lady Max !

Allan

Last edited on Wed Jul 27th, 2016 01:12 pm by allan downes

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I've been considering not watching your posts for some time Max - thay always make me feel like Mr Messy .................:oops::oops::oops:

Everything you tackle is so neat, clean and tidy.  No wonder you can hard wire sound chips into Terrier locos !!!!  Your wiring is always a joy to behold.  I'm not surprised you don't need an A4 pad to record it all.

Do you have some kind of panel saw for cutting the MDF ?  I'd struggle to get a piece that size cut so true on my bench saw. :???:

Not only excellent modelling but probably the cleanest work area I've ever seen. :cheers:cheers:cheers

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Hi Peter

Thanks for the compliments.  :thumbs

Where I need long pieces of MDF for panels, I take the 150 km round trip up to Sol's place.  There is a wood supplier near to him who has a panel saw and who takes the trouble to cut accurately for me.

For the ware house, I bought one sheet 2.4 metres x 1.2 metres and I had him cut two x 250 mm strips off it for the walls and one 150 mm strip for the roof.  I had the rest of the sheet over and the whole lot (including the cuts), cost A$10.50.

Then I went to Sol's for a cup of coffee and was back home before lunch.

If I need further cuts, I nail a piece of 16 mm MDF through the sheet to my bench and use it as a guide for my circular saw.  The bench is 3 metres long, so once I clear it there is plenty of length there.

I have to cut a 65 mm piece for the awning, so that's how I will do it.

Any smaller cuts I do on my radial arm compound saw.  It will take timber up to 300 mm wide.

The tidiness is just down to my OCD.  :lol:

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Gives a whole new meaning to... "I'm just popping out for a piece of wood" :lol:


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A 150 mile round trip here in the UK is an event in its self especially if it takes in the M25 and any trip up the M1 coneway needs careful planning and plenty of sandwiches !

Allan

Last edited on Thu Jul 28th, 2016 11:10 am by allan downes

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It's only 150 km which is only 93 miles, Allan.

150 miles is 241.5 km.  Much further.  :lol:

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The km's are what's good about France too Max.  When I set off for UK from here and see Paris signed at around 600kms, your heart sinks at the thought of it all. 

Then, when you realise it's just over half that distance in miles (my car is UK bought), it flutters into life again.  It's still around 580 miles to the ferry in Zeebrugge though............:sad::sad::sad:

A 90 mile round trip is 50 miles closer than my nearest half decent model shop. :cheers

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I always remember that 100km = 60 miles because many years ago I took great pleasure in telling people my old car could do 100 :roll:


Ed

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Here are the five roller doors . . .



The corrugated styrene is 1 mm thick.  It has a 2 mm styrene stiffener glued to the back, with a rectangular hole cut out to make a void.

The void has a piece of lead flashing captive in the space.  This is to give the door a bit of mass and also to lower the centre of mass.  This should give a pendulum effect, which should help with the lowering action of the door.

Time will tell.

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I can see it coming- doors that open/close by servos !

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Spot on, Sol.  :thumbs

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nice to know about the doors and servo`s I started to do all that till life went pear shaped hence the mem wire kit,look forward to your job
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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Thanks, Owen.

The memory wire isn't going to work, but the servos will.  :thumbs

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Wow - operating doors. :shock::shock::shock:  Can't wait to see how you tackle the flushing loo ..................;-)

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Proper job Max.

Allan

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Petermac wrote: Wow - operating doors. :shock::shock::shock:  Can't wait to see how you tackle the flushing loo ..................;-)

Probably do sound only, the loo door should be closed.

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Thanks, Allan.

Not sure what to say about the loo, guys.  :roll:

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Ok forget the loo, but servo the carrage doors to open and close at a station, randomly of course...piece of cake to you Max :)

Phil

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Phil.c wrote: Ok forget the loo, but servo the carrage doors to open and close at a station, randomly of course...piece of cake to you Max :)

Phil

Any chance of a demonstration Phil !

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I'm working on it Allan, not so easy in 4mm though as I have to make minature servo's :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

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I'm still waiting for one of you clever 'Automaters' to do a pair of benches which flip between occupied and empty when a train has stood in front of them and vice-versa....

[Sow the seed, wait for a shoot...]

Doug

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Among other automations I'd like to see, a working shunting horse, a porter wheeling barrow, a moving shunter placed by an uncoupler, a guard leaning out of van door/window waving flag for "right away" (all in N gauge of course)

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Should have all that sorted by Tuesday....Friday at the latest:mrgreen:

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yes I forgot yours are roll-up, mine were going to be the carriage ones ,to open in the station,,
:thumbs;-):cool:
oWEN

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All of those things have been done by Laurie McLean MMR.

https://www.youtube.com/user/scoopmmr?feature=watch 

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So, here's Door 1 assembled.


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Max, you never cease to amaze me. Beautiful workmanship.

Allan.

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Thanks, Allan.

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Nice application of mechanical advantage!

Following along.

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Thanks, Marty.  Me too.  :lol:

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That's neat Max - I hadn't realised you were going to do it that way - I don't know why, but I'd imagined a direct lift. :roll::pathead

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Thanks, Peter.

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I've run the 12 Volt Regulated DC bus for the lights under the awning and for power to the servo controller.  It should arrive next week.

There is also an aerial wire which will carry the servo leads back to the controller.



The two wires with the banana plugs, plug into jacks on the baseboard for removal of the building.  There will be a DCC plug for the servo controller as well.

Here are the 'fluro' lights which go under the awning.



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It's 1.7 metres long, so it's hard to get it all in; but here goes . . .


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MaxSouthOz wrote: It's 1.7 metres long, so it's hard to get it all in; but here goes . . .



Well, you will model in these large scales :lol:

Looks good Max :thumbs


Ed

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Thanks, Ed.  I'm currently doing the Scalescenes thing.  Umpty nine pieces of paper.  :lol:

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those lights are the biz,as for scalescenes ,it will keep you out of trouble  at least:mutley
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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All high-tech stuff Max. If I was installing that I'd also install a fire extinguisher !

Great workmanship as usual.


Allan

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Thanks, guys.

I've already burnt a couple of toner cartridges.  :lol:

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Max, your modelling reminds me of the old cowboy joke: ''Wana see the fastest draw in the west kid? Wana see it again?''

Yep, just blink and I miss a week's modelling by most other peoples' standards. Trouble is, I took 40 winks, so need time now to catch up Max!

Superb and inspirational modelling made to look so easy, which we're all aware isn't. Thank you yet again Max.

Bill

 

Last edited on Wed Aug 3rd, 2016 12:38 am by Longchap

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Not a lot of folk know this but Max is a retired gunfighter. Just don't come up on his blind side and keep your back to the sun.

Allan

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Thanks, Bill.   :cool:

I thought that my secret was safe with you, Allan.  :lol:

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allan downes wrote:
Not a lot of folk know this but Max is a retired gunfighter. Just don't come up on his blind side and keep your back to the sun.

Allan

I've seen a photo of his arsenal and Allan's quite correct.....................:shock::shock:

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Guys and Guns :lol::lol::lol:

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That's the one Max .................you must have big rats in Oz. :roll:;-)

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Hmm. Maybe  not a retired gunslinger after all....

 

Allan

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Nothing really suitable to engrave there Max :???:

Phil

Last edited on Thu Aug 4th, 2016 11:22 am by Phil.c

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The warehouse building is completed - except for weathering.





This shot shows one of the roller doors open.

The DCC controller should be here next week.

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In the second shot I was vainly trying to show the dado wall made of brown bricks at the bottom of each wall.

Hopefully this shows it a bit better . . .


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you can see the dado wall in the shot with the open door too Max, and the interior scenic is spot on
:thumbs:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

Last edited on Sun Aug 7th, 2016 12:23 pm by Silver Fox

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Thanks, Owen.  I'm quite pleased with how it turned out.

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 Serious bit of bricklaying there Max.
Really looking the biz now. Not too sure about the interior shot though - the perspective seems too forced...


Allan

Last edited on Sun Aug 7th, 2016 01:42 pm by allan downes

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Thanks, Allan.

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G'day Max.

What have you used - or intend to use - on the warehouse roof ?

Allan

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Hi Allan

I've just painted it grey.  It's up pretty high, so it's hard to see - and it has the mimic panel sitting on it for the time being.

Interesting that you mentioned the photo.  I'm still not convinced about it.  I'm gathering some boxes, fuel drums and the like, to see if I can make it look better.

I'm still not sure about the truss rods on the awning, either.  I can't make up my mind about whether or not to put the intermediate ones in, or not. 

Plus I still have to put up the door number signs and down pipes.

My buildings evolve over time, so I'm not done yet.

The final act will be the weathering.  It will happen on a day when I have some hours to create it.  Some dull coat, some light brown spray paint and some powder.

Making buildings for me is the best part of the hobby.

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Can't you model the room instead of a 2D picture?

Phil

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I can, Phil.  I just wanted to try the photo idea.

I think real stuff will look better.

I've ordered some from http://www.modeltechstudios.com

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Those stackers etc will look good...not sure about the lumberjacks though :lol:

Phil

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:mutley

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Don't forget, you need to model all five interiors, just in case someone askes you to open the other doors :???::lol::lol:

Phil

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How about some sort of motorized interiors sliding across the back, so that sometimes when the doors open it was full and sometimes empty :roll:



Ed








(:mutley)




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That had occurred to me, Phil.   :lol:

Each door opens remotely with a servo, so I have to be prepared.

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Not enough room, Ed.

Too many gubbins already.  :lol:

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Max. This link might be of use to you where maybe you could print something out in photoshop, size it to suit then stick them behind your open warehouse doors.


Anyway, here's the link.


Allan

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=warehouse%20interiors&qs=n&form=QBIR&pq=warehouse%20interiors&sc=2-19&sp=-1&sk=

Last edited on Wed Aug 10th, 2016 12:36 am by allan downes

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Thanks, Allan.  Yes.  I tried that and others, via Google.

The file sizes are very small and when I enlarged them, they pixellated.

I downloaded the one in the doorway from a test page on a photo site.  If you look closely, it has a watermark across it, but it will probably be good enough for a background when my warehouse bits arrive from the US.

I'll probably make another four.  It has been pasted onto a block of 16 mm MDF so I can move it around to get it into position.

In the meantime, I've been under the layout relocating the Xpress-net bus.  I want to have another mimic panel on the valance, so I can stow the one on top of the warehouse when I'm not using it for running days.

I think that it will look a lot better.

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Watermarks can be removed in PS so that's not a problem Max, this image size however, is!

Phil

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Re image size, I have problems in Serif draw xplus 8 as all the images are exported in ddf (?) so I have to convert then to jpeg as this will allow me into 'paint' and windows 7 picture maker where I can down size, crop and mess about in general then upload straight onto a forum.


Weird.

Last edited on Thu Aug 11th, 2016 01:59 pm by allan downes

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So, we have action with the roller doors.

It's a bit like watching paint dry, but it is what it is. 




Try to stay awake. 

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It works and it looks right, nothing wrong with that Max :thumbs


Ed


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In a most unlike Max fashion I see two vertical black lines divided by a white space but no door, no action.

Let me know when the paint has dried !

Allan

Last edited on Wed Aug 17th, 2016 02:31 pm by allan downes

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works well Max,I like it a lot
:thumbs:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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That's excellent Max. :thumbs:thumbs  Clever stuff.

They move quite slowly in real life so any faster and we'd think it was a model .......................;-)

Can't wait to see the motorised sack barrows ..............:roll:

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Thanks, guys.

Sorry you missed it, Allan.

I'll give you the raw link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmYsWfxiHTk

Cheers

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They worked on Firefox Max but not on Google chrome.


Stunning as usual. Stunning as expected.


Allan.


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Thanks, Allan.

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And on the fascia, another mimic panel.



This time with push button switches.

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Thought you had one on top of the warehouse Max :???:


Ed

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I do, Ed.  It's a steel one for attaching the magnetic tokens for the cars during the operating sessions.

It only has LEDs; no turnout control.

Between operating sessions, it's stowed away.

Ed
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MaxSouthOz wrote: It's a steel one for attaching the magnetic tokens for the cars during the operating sessions.


I'm intrigued.

Ed

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I've got it all dismantled at the moment so I can complete the weathering and the down pipes.

When I get it back together, I'll post a shot of it.

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:thumbs



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Very neat and tidy Max. :thumbs

I'll send you my track plan and perhaps you could knock one up for me between coffee breaks ..................;-)

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Thanks, Peter.

You have to buy an Octocoder 111a, otherwise I'm outside my comfort zone.    :lol:

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Would it matter what colour it was Max ?  I think I have a spare red one in the garage ....................;-)

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No.  It really must be green, Peter.  :mrgreen:

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:lol::lol::cheers

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This photo shows both panels.



The one at the top has magnetic tokens which are moved into various positions to challenge the players.

The yard man can operate the turnouts by DCC so he can stand back to give the other two a clear view.  Or he can step forward to press the buttons.

The shunter operates the couplers by DCC.  Or either of them can raise and lower the roller doors - if they get bored.

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Interesting Max, who gets to move the tokens.

Ed

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I thought some form of lucky dip, say starting from position number 1 through to 8?

I have actually tried it by moving the box cars from one side to the other; each time running the loco around the car.  A very simple challenge, but it still took me more than 15 minutes.

If I start spotting them, I reckon that it will take longer again.

That's only using half of the eight cars.

It's all uncharted water from here, Ed.  :lol:

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Sounds fun :thumbs

Ed

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Try the great hand in the sky Max. It's much faster !

Allan

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Ah, you mean the 0-5-0 shunter, Alan !

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Remember that these are O scale cars, Allan.  And they are built by me - over engineered to b*******y :lol:

That should read "The Great TWO hands in the sky."  :cool:

Plus, I've only got one good shoulder.   :shock:

:mutley

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Well that's a more precise way of putting it Max !

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I have the carcass of the wool shed done.  It's still very much in the rough until the end of the building phase.



Wool sheds are often on stumps and have slatted floors to allow air circulation to guard against fungal attack.



I needed a little job to occupy myself with while glue was setting up on the main building, so I knocked together a loading dock out of flotsam and jetsam.

Placing the figure into the scene shows that the personal access door is too narrow.  I also want to raise the big door to 10 feet; where the mark is, to clear the mast on the forklift truck.

It doesn't look like much, but I'm sure that it will come together. 

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MaxSouthOz wrote:
Placing the figure into the scene shows that the personal access door is too narrow.

You sure Max, looks ok from here (but I am rather a long way away).

Ed

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You could be right, Ed.  It's scale 3 feet, which is about right.

It just looks wrong.

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Put it down to the figure you picked being a bit portly, it's the high Vis. :mutley


Ed

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MaxSouthOz wrote: You could be right, Ed.  It's scale 3 feet, which is about right.

It just looks wrong.


I'm with you on this one Max, " if it looks wrong it is wrong " just as "if it looks right it is right " so go with your instincts mate.


Been my golden rule for over 45 years which, of course, doesn't mean a thing !


Allan

Last edited on Wed Aug 24th, 2016 03:04 pm by allan downes

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Thanks, Allan.  :thumbs

By the way, what was your rule for your first 45 years?

I'll get me coat.  :mutley

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MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, Allan.  :thumbs

By the way, what was your rule for your first 45 years?

I'll get me coat.  :mutley


By believing that " A pessimist thinks that all women are bad and that an optimist ( me) hopes they are "

Allan

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I like that carcass Max. :thumbs

You certainly don't waste any time and I like the way you've used "proper" building practice for the roof timbers.  Plenty of strength and support there.

It's often strange that, when you scale things down, they just don't look right. :hmm  The door is the proper scale width - in fact, they're often narrower than 3ft. and presumably the guy is correct for 7mm and yet as you say, he just looks too fat - at least, he does in the close-up.  He doesn't seem too bad in the longer shot.  Maybe the camera has lied .............:roll:

The loading dock looks great. Maybe a few chunks out of the bump strip where lorries have tried to straighten their bend crash bars ............:roll::roll:

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just caught up with this feed and oh my, those shutter doors are a work of art

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I like that, Allan.  :thumbs

Thanks, guys.

I have to make the roof strong, Peter - as it lifts off.  Once again, opening doors and interiors in this one.  By the way, the stock I've ordered for the warehouse is about 3 weeks away.  :roll:

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The wool shed roof construction is now done.



Here's the roof taken off to show the framework.

The roof was built with the main member clamped to the body of the building.  The two transverse pieces at each end locate the roof into the body.

Once again built using the design of an aeroplane wing.  Light but strong.  I'm hoping that over time it won't change shape and become ill fitting.

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Could have done with that Max at the bottom of our garden during the Blitz !

Allan.

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It's surprisingly light, Allan.  Only a few grams.

Here's the roof with its corrugated asbestos cladding  and clapboard gables.



The fascias (barge boards), and rafters were given a black wash.

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Veeeery nice Max - what's the corrugated roof ?

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'Expletive-me',

That's good!

Doug

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Thanks, guys.

It's Scalescenes corrugated asbestos, Peter.  HO magnified twice.  It's not as good as having a live profile, but the buildings are really only a back scene.

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some backscene,you seem to have found your forte, they are brill
:thumbs:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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Thanks, Owen.   :cheers

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A cheap shot Max ? OK if it works though.

Allan

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You mean using them as a back drop, Allan?  Yes.

Hopefully the focus will be on the trains.

On the other side there will be a street scene, with tracks in the middle of the road.

I will be able to make more detailed buildings there.

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Some more progress has been made on the wool shed.







Lots more work to do, but it's a start.

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Must be very dark inside Max


Ed

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It is, Ed.  :lol:

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Love that planking Max. :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

Is it plastic and if so, how did you paint it ?

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Thanks, Peter.

It's the dreaded Scalescenes.  :lol:

I just used a rattle can of light brown over the lower part of the walls.

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Perfection as usual Max. Really looking good.

Don't falter now !

Allan.

Last edited on Fri Sep 2nd, 2016 01:56 pm by allan downes

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Thanks, Allan.  No pressure then?  :lol:

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That will come on final inspection Max but, knowing your standards, it'll pass with flying colours.

Allan

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Looks good to me Max, a touch of weathering when finished will take it a step further ;-)

Phil

Last edited on Fri Sep 2nd, 2016 09:27 pm by Phil.c

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Thanks, guys.  I've still got to wire the lights and the door servos, Phil.  The outside lights are those little green excressences.  :lol:

I might have to light the inside a bit as well.  All that requires handling of the model, so I'll wait until I've done that before I get out my powders.

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I've finally finished this beast.





I've still got to wire the door servos to the Octocoder, but that's a job for tomorrow.

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Impressive :thumbs

Ed

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Thanks, Ed.  :cool:

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Coming together very nicely Max!

Phil

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Thanks, Phil.  :cool:

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coming on nicely Max, good shot along the layout gives some idea of the size,:doublethumb
:thumbs;-):cool:
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Thanks, Owen.  Sometimes it's hard to find a new angle.  :lol:

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Terrific job Max but as expected of course. Can we have some moss on the roof please. Corrugated is notorious for hosting it.

Allan

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Thanks, but I don't know, Allan.  Does it grow on buildings which are lashed with salty sea spray?   :lol:


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Probably not Max, but only you and me know that !

Possibly...

Allan

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no Max but litchen does,over here, bonny colours too,
:thumbs;-):cool:
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Thanks, guys.  I have no idea.  Everything's brown here.  :lol:

Do you have any pictures of something which could work?

Cheers

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Just a light sprinkling could work Max but selectively, maybe not as much as here as the buildings are under trees.

Phil


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Thanks, Phil.  I'll try to get my head around it.

That's a dodgy looking cafe, by the way.  :lol:

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Phil.c wrote: Just a light sprinkling could work Max but selectively, maybe not as much as here as the buildings are under trees.



Phil





I must be getting old, that picture looks so familiar  fabulous modelling Phil , as is yours Max

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MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, Phil.  I'll try to get my head around it.

That's a dodgy looking cafe, by the way.  :lol:
It's modeled on the one that used to be just down the road when I was a kid Max!

Phil

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Thanks, Q.

That's amazing, Phil.

I'm still thinking about the greenery.  It will probably make more sense when I start to fill in the spaces around the buildings.

I'm a bit keen to get some O scale gulls for the roof tops as well.

We're not allowed to call them sea gulls here - they are silver gulls, someone from the speech police will point out.  :lol:

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MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, guys.  I have no idea.  Everything's brown here.  :lol:

Do you have any pictures of something which could work?

Cheers


Here you go, Max, green or yellow, take your pick, Mousehole and Newquay. The yellow faces west[ish] and the green due south.

Doug






You'll agree, both pretty close to the 'oggin!

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Thanks, Doug.  That's got the juices flowing.  :thumbs

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And it's screaming out to be modelled. Moss an all !!

Allan

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I've got a place for that :)

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We sat on the second step down and ate a pasty. They were so good I went back and bought another one!

We found we could not buy a pasty in any of the pubs we went into...were offered all sorts of things, finally I snapped when we pulled off the road, walked across a big car park in the rain, got ignored for ten minutes at the bar and when I asked more in hope than expectancy 'Do you serve pasties?' I was told 'No, but we have some mouthwatering goujons of hake in a sorrel sauce...'[Really!]
I told the barman where he could poke his 'mouthwatering goujons'. It would have made his eyes water.....

Back across the rainy car park, slammed car doors, and not a word spoken by the iceberg next to me for 20 minutes.

Ho Hum, jolly holidays.

Doug

PS Sorry for the hi-jack

Doug

Last edited on Wed Sep 7th, 2016 02:19 pm by Chubber

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Chubber wrote: We sat on the second step down and ate a pasty. They were so good I went back and bought another one!

We found we could not buy a pasty in any of the pubs we went into...were offered all sorts of things, finally I snapped when we pulled off the road, walked across a big car park in the rain, got ignored for ten minutes at the bar and when I asked more in hope than expectancy 'Do you serve pasties?' I was told 'No, but we have some mouthwatering goujons of hake in a sorrel sauce, the YUPPIE SET  REALLY DO LOVE 'EM...'[Really!]
I told the barman where he could poke his 'mouthwatering goujons'. It would have made his eyes water.....

Back across the rainy car park, slammed car doors, and not a word spoken by the iceberg next to me for 20 minutes.

Ho Hum, jolly holidays.

Doug

PS Sorry for the hi-jack

Doug


Forgive me Doug, but I just had to insert my bit ( cap letters ) into your post.

Allan

BTW. Model of houses in pic already started but with essential alterations !

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A couple more doors . . .

A swinging door . . .



and a sliding door . . .


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Love them.  Very clever indeed.  :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

Do they ride on something Max or just slide on the floor ?

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Thanks, Peter.

The sliding door just slides on the floor.  It has some doublers on the inside at the bottom, which give it a wide footprint.

The swinging door has a hinge pin on the back edge, which rotates top and bottom.

I still haven't got any greenery on yet, Allan.  :lol:

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That works great, now what about the forklift:)

Phil

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MaxSouthOz wrote I still haven't got any greenery on yet, Allan. 


Oh dear Max, that'll never do.

Allan

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Must have your veggies Max ........................healthy living and all that. :cheers:cheers

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those doors run smooth man,brill job Max
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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Thanks, men.   :thumbs

The forklifts are a bit of challenge at the minute, Phil.  :lol:

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I got hold of an old Loksound V 3.5 second hand.  It was on it's last legs, but it still had some functionality.  I thought that it might suit my Diecast Direct O scale forklift truck.



. . . so I added a 3 mm LED for a beacon and anchored the truck to the dock (after cutting a hole for the speaker).



I rewired the whole decoder in the hope that it might help find some extra functions, but no luck.  Still I had the white headlight wire and the blue (+).  I rewrote the headlight function to be a flashing beacon for the roof and uploaded some motor sounds.

Here's the result . . .



Now back to some proper modelling.  :lol:

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You are just having WAYYY to much fun Max.

Now c'mon, motorise the forklift, lay a thin guide wire along the quay in front of the buildings, you can buy the guidance systems now a days and you can have loco vs forklift races!


Marty

Last edited on Sun Sep 18th, 2016 05:15 am by Marty

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Good job Max...but he seems to have a clutch problem:)

Phil

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Thanks, Phil.  That's the mechanic (white overalls), giving 'er a bit of a rev up.  ;-)

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MaxSouthOz wrote: ......................  That's the mechanic (white overalls), giving 'er a bit of a rev up.  ;-)

Now that is an idea Max.  It looks great, it sounds great but ...............it doesn't go anywhere. :???:

Marty's Faller type drive system might be a bridge too far but you could easily turn it into a nice little diorama with a mechanic stooping over the hydraulics wondering why those darned forks won't elevate .......................it would give all the sounds a "raison d'etre" :hmm

How long will the remains of the decoder last I wonder - all that work and it may disappear in a puff of exhaust smoke .................:cry:

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Thanks, Peter but where can it go? - with the speaker embedded in the loading dock?

There's no reason to expect the decoder to die - anyway, I have some spares if it does.

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Leave it where it is Max but with mechanics working on it in situ.  It looks good and is additional "electrickery" - the punters love that sort of thing. :thumbs

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Thanks, Peter.  I've got more figures in the Bachmann set the guy in the white overalls came from.

It's a good idea.  :thumbs

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nice idea Max, but when I worked on fork trucks I wore dark blue overalls, cheffs wore white, now it the other way round:roll::roll:
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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I can't claim credit for Petermac's idea, Owen; but I do have some figures who might do the job.

There's still quite a bit of weathering and painting to do on them.  I'll keep it in mind.

Thanks.  :thumbs

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Reference photos - painting the buffer stops on the sea end.

First, a coat of Titanium White.



Then successive flat black washes until it matches the piles etc.



Reference photos.

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Nice Max.. rust on the chains and ladder please and more algae on the woodwork :)

Phil

Last edited on Sat Sep 24th, 2016 11:42 am by Phil.c

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Damn!  I just put those new chains on!  :lol:

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Other than agreeing with Phil about the chains Max, I think the rest looks absolutely brilliant.  Love the buffer stop "weathering". :thumbs

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Thanks, Peter.

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An important step forward . . .


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Now that's an angle I'm used to seeing boats at, several rivers are above the height of the drained land around here.

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When you can build like that Max who cares about the colours of Propane cylinders !

Allan.

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Thanks, guys.  The curtains have really improved the look of the layout.

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Great curtains Max,nice to see your feminine side.:cool wink

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I bet you did'nt sew them :mutley

Last edited on Mon Sep 26th, 2016 11:48 am by Phil.c

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Ha ha.  Very good, Alan.

You would win your bet, Phil.  The wife of one of our NMRA SIG members is the manager of a curtain company.

And - yes, I did pay for them.  :cool:

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I hope she allowed you a little discount Max :)

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MMMmmm.  Just a little.  ;-)

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The building of the wharf appears to have been completed.



The pad which is recessed into the surface is the base plate for the next building, which will be the Harbour Master's offices and emergency vehicles parking.



I'm going to have to dig out some of the weathering powder in the rail grooves.

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Atmospheric. The lights work particularly well in those photos.

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Thanks, Marty.  They are actually darker in the room.  I had a guess at F 5.  Probably should have reduced it a bit.  :roll:

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What Marty said Max, a great job, I can't view the pictures on my iPad as good as my PC (sitting in the sun in Ternerife) ;-) but when you get the powders out, check out everything else around, plus small clumps of grass here and there what about a few water puddles, I assume it does rain there ..it all helps :)

Magic stuff Max;-)

Phil:)

Last edited on Mon Oct 3rd, 2016 01:26 pm by Phil.c

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All I can say is that a future classic comes to light.


Magnificent modelling Max with superior and well thought out attention to detail.


Allan

Last edited on Mon Oct 3rd, 2016 02:54 pm by allan downes

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Thank you chaps.  It's really a blank canvas now, ready for the titivation of which you speak.

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Go titivate Max ;-)

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Depends what you mean by titivate Phil. 


I've even been locked up for it ! 


Allan

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I was expecting that.....It means whatever you want it to Allan :)

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That's what I told the judge.


Allan.

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Mt friend, Peter Jackson MMR gave me an Arttista metal boat to play with while I wait for stuff from the US.

(I still haven't made the water.  :lol: )


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I know, Phil. Rust on the ladder.  :lol:

Here's a couple of gratuitous shots . . .




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Well! What's been keeping you! :lol:

Phil

Last edited on Mon Oct 10th, 2016 11:18 am by Phil.c

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I've painted the rust on ALL of the five ladders.  :cool:

I haven't taken a photo, as I don't have much film left.  :roll:

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Film? Do people use film anymore?. :hmm :hmm :hmm

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Max uses a Box Brownie Alan :)

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:mutley

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Phil.c wrote: Max uses a Box Brownie Alan :)
I used a Brownie once Phil and got thrown out of the Scouts for it.


Allan.

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i love this layout and what you are achieving is just wow, keep up the great work, i look forward to the next installment

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Thanks, Jim.

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Still waiting for my stuff from the US.

I made a few seagulls . . .



Well, fourteen - but who's counting?

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Is that guy fishing, Max ?

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He doesn't seem to be, Ed.

He has a thermos and lunch box.  He's looking into the water.

Perhaps he sees some fish.

Maybe he'll come back later with his gear.  :lol:

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I think he's going to jump in!

Good touch those seagulls Max....where's the rust on those ladders and chains!...more weathering please and grime/grot weeds etc in the crevices!

Phil

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Couple of hand lines hanging over the edge, could be wondering if his got a bite  :lol:


Ed

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Max, you're a really great guy but nobody makes seagulls !

Cheers mate.


Allan

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Not sure how Max has made his but if you bend up a simple wire frame to the outline of the bird you want then just make the body and head by using some Milliput or similar, and then paint.

I think its how Pendon models birds.

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Nah.

I could show you many failures using Knead it and other putty types.  :lol:

These are made using drops of PVA over a wire armature.




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Brilliant!
While you're waiting for something else to dry you could give their tail feathers a wash of black?


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allan downes wrote: Max, you're a really great guy but nobody makes seagulls !

Cheers mate.


Allan
I like them Allan.....but I couldn't eat a whole one :lol:

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I agree Phil.

The only thing that could eat a whole seagull is another seagull !


Allan.

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Thanks, Marty.

That's a good idea - it's why they are on wires and easily removable for improvements.

I've had to keep pulling them out and touching them up, just to finally get a decent photo.

Even in O scale, they are 3mm long.  :lol:

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Surely a seagul is at least one foot (7mm) long Max?

Phil

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I was being facetious, Phil.  ;-)

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:mutley

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Immingham seagulls are so big they need take off clearance !

Allan.

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I've heard that Allan :)

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And, they're even putting in an extra runway at Cleethorpes to accommodate the sudden influx of immigrant seagulls.

Allan.

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Hooray!  Customs have finally released my ambulance and Fire Chief's car.



The pad is the base plate for the Harbor Master's building which will have the Emergency Services on the ground floor.

I've CA glued the axles and ground the bottoms of the tyres, so they sit better.

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I guess the Customs delay is while they had to check the fuel tanks were not carrying any illegal substances !!

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:mutley

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I've started the "concrete" infill from the southern end.


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.... ;-) ;-) ;-)

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The concrete is done.









Phew!

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Looks good  :thumbs
No footprints either, so you must have managed to keep the seagulls off while it was still wet  :lol:


Ed

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Thanks, Ed.
If you build it, they will come.  :mutley

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Nice drainpipe... and subtle tufts of grass.... and sloping boat ramp.... and.... yup... stunning work Max. Bravo.
What did you use for the infill?

Cheers

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Thanks, Marty.

The infill is 2.0 mm Basswood ply.  Painted with acrylic and then weathering powders rubbed in.

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Here's how . . .

First I ink the rail heads, then I press a piece of 1.0 mm card on to them.



This gives a very accurate image of the spaces where the infill will go.



Then using scissors, I carefully cut out the templates.



Then I place the template on to the ply and mark around it with a sharp pencil.

Then I cut out the infill, using a snap off bladed knife. 


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Much tidier than messing about with water putty or poly filler. Looks fine too.

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Yes.  Thanks, Marty.

It's quite a lot of work, but I'm happy with the result.

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good idea Max,must give it a go,and congrats on the photo of the week,well deserved
:thumbs :thumbs ;-) :cool:
Owen

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Congrats on the photo of the day/week Max

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How do you work the concrete infill in between the points and the point tie bars Max ? A close up would be handy.

Allan.

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Thanks, fellows.  :thumbs

I don't know the answer to your question,Allan.

I haven't got that far yet.  :mutley

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Congratulations on the header picture Max.....well deserved for sure.
Brilliant idea with the infill marking......wish you had mentioned that a few years ago :lol:




Best wishes


John


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Well done Max, great stuff.

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Hi Max Conegratulation, s photo of the week WoW that,s modelling 100% at it,s best,  Brilliant.

Best of Luck from a cold wet South Wales U.K.

Noviceman

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Thanks, guys.  :cheers

I was watching Wendy do some printing the other day and it only then occurred to me, John.

Sorry.  :lol:

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A small world Max as I'm writing this with you half a million miles away and there's Noviceman four miles from me!
Good on the header ;-)


Phil


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Thanks, Phil.  :cool:

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A neat idea (with the rail inking) and a neat finish. Impressive.

Z.

Last edited on Tue Nov 1st, 2016 03:17 pm by Zodiac

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Thanks, Grahame.

It's handy having a wife who is an artist.  :cool:

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I made a start on the Harbor Master's building this week.



It's in three modules for ease of construction.



The balustrade is two ladders glued together.

Now for the Scalescenes.  

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Looking good Max...again :lol:

Phil

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Thanks, Phil.

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The work continues on the Harbor Master/Pilot/Emergency Services building. 

The plasterers have been in and the carpet has been laid.





. . . and the roof is finished.



(The flagpole is straight.  It's just the camera angle). 

Tomorrow, the bottom brick cladding goes on, ready for weathering.

Then the glazing begins. 

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Look forward to the weathering....now if only you had lifted the block paper on the front up a course Max, the corner blocks would be perfect....don't mind me I'm just nit pickin'  :lol: :lol: :lol:

Phil

Last edited on Tue Nov 8th, 2016 12:36 pm by Phil.c

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It's just me being Ikey, Phil.

If I cut the sheet in half, I get to use both pieces.  :lol:

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good looking build Max, ignore that bloke with the magnifiying glass  :roll:the blocks are ok for the 3ft rule :mutley
:thumbs ;-) :cool:
Owen

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Thanks, Owen.  :lol:

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This for Allan.  I decided to make a hatchway.





Hmm.  The camera shows up my rough soldering.  :shock:

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Well done Max.
That's a great way to do it. :doublethumb

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Thanks, Tony.

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I've added layout sound . . .



The module comes from . . .

http://ittproducts.com/

George didn't have the sound of waves and seagulls, so I sent him a .wav file with some.

He loaded it for me.

It sounds great.

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Very interesting Max.  Another layer of detail.  I've made a note of the link.

John

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Where I put the copper link wire, you can have a triggering device for playing the file once through.  Maybe a reed switch under the track.  Or a decoder connected to a relay.

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Here's the site I used for the sound file.

Third from the bottom . . .

https://www.freesound.org/people/juskiddink/packs/3600/ 

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Good stuff Max, how long can a wav be without it looping?

If you ever need a few wav's combined/mixed into one, you know where I am. ;-)
 
Phil

Last edited on Thu Nov 10th, 2016 02:21 pm by Phil.c

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let`s see, engine drivers hat or sowester or mayby a knotted hankie, choices choices?? :mutley :mutley
like the sound Max
:thumbs ;-) :cool:
Owen

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Thanks, guys.

I have some .wav files which are only a few seconds long, Phil.   We loop them in the decoders.

It depends, I guess.

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What I meant was, instead of continuous seagull squawks, you could have a mix of...in the background, sea, with the occasional wave sounds, then seagulls coming in here and there, you could also have distant motor sounds and workmens voices, more natural that way?

Phil

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I'm happy with it at the moment, Phil.

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Just a thought Max :)

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Thanks, Phil.

Unfortunately I can't change it once George has loaded it without sending it back.

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I think you need some sort of interface to do that Max?

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No.  It's a closed system, Phil.  No access.

I already have an mp3 player I can load sounds on to, but this is a little cheapie.

Plug and play.

My mp3 player is loaded from my computer and so I do the sort of stuff you're talking about.

I just thought that it was a gimmick.  A bit of fun.

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If it's a closed system and the seagull wav has been loaded to it...how was that done, unless the chip had the sounds....in that case there is an interface somewhere for the chip?

Phil

Last edited on Mon Nov 14th, 2016 03:59 pm by Phil.c

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I supplied the .wav file and George loaded it and posted it to me.

He builds the modules, loads the sounds and then supplies them.  There is no option for the user to load new files.

That way, he protects his business.

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What with everything that's been going on, all I have managed is to buy a couple of 1:43 vehicles from Aldi and weather them a bit.



I know that they are out of era, but they will be OK for a cameo.

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Looks like the boys have knocked off . . .


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I see that bloke is till eating his lunch, he'd be better off sitting in the car with all those seagulls about  :lol:

Nice picture Max  :thumbs



Ed


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Lovely shot Max...still no rust on those chains though :mutley

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Nice cameo, the birds to add a nice touch, something I am looking to do at some point

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Thanks, guys.  The port authority has just replaced the chains, Phil.  :lol:

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Oh!... my apoligies Max..so they're new ones.....my mistake :Happy

Last edited on Mon Nov 28th, 2016 01:47 pm by Phil.c

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The ground floor of the Harbor Master's office etc., is finished - apart from weathering; and I forgot to put the joints in the concrete floor in the garage.  



Here's how it looks in place . . .



I rather like the timber windows.  I might continue them on the top floor.    

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Good stuff Max and the brick courses work perfect from end to end ;-)

Phil

Last edited on Fri Dec 2nd, 2016 12:37 pm by Phil.c

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Thanks, Phil.

There is a slight curvature in the print copy, which you can see in the join on the front wall.  The courses are slightly wider top and bottom.

I'll cover it with the weathering paint.  :lol:

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Something like this might work and break up the blandness of the big wall.


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I've added two more windows to the upstairs offices.



It's meant more plasterboard and carpet. 

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In the meantime, I'm pressing ahead with the infill.

Here's how it's done . . .



All of the paper pattern is scraped away, exposing the base board.

The panel of 2.0 mm basswood ply is shaped to fit.  There is a butt strap in place on the right hand end.  PVA glue is liberally applied, and the panel is fitted.



Then the panel is weighed down so that it cannot move.  It takes 24 hours for the PVA to set up.  Once it has, the ties, panel and base board are all locked together.

I now have to wait 24 hours before I can do the next one, as it takes all of my weights to do each one.

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And I've done a few more windows . . .



I must tidy up that paper brickwork.

It needs a bit of glue. 

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Actually, a concrete floor like Phil C has shown, would look good

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I was also thinking of the lintel above the garage door and windows etc.

Phil

Last edited on Mon Dec 5th, 2016 01:00 pm by Phil.c

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bettera and bettera
:thumbs ;-) :cool:
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Windows make a difference, looking good   :thumbs



Ed

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Thanks, guys.

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Plodding along . . .





Next up, window treatments and down pipes.

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Good Progress Max, Looking forward to seeing it completed. I assume you'll be detailing the inside as you have gone through the effort of lighting it.

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Thanks, Aaron.

Yes.  I have obtained some packs of office furniture from Plastruct.

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Not much to show today.  I've been continuing with the infill.

I've started on my goose neck street lights.



The white bit up the top is PVA which hasn't set up yet.

Once it does, it will be ready for painting.

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That looks good Max. ;-)

Phil

Last edited on Tue Dec 13th, 2016 12:21 pm by Phil.c

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Thanks, Phil.

They said the goose neck couldn't be done.  :lol:

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Looks like you have plumbing experience Max :)

Last edited on Tue Dec 13th, 2016 02:22 pm by Phil.c

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MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, Phil.

They said the goose neck couldn't be done.  :lol:


Obviously they weren't counting on you Max.


Ingenious workmanship as usual.


Allan

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Did you put a guitar string in to bend it :lol:

Phil

Last edited on Tue Dec 13th, 2016 04:09 pm by Phil.c

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Thanks, guys.

No.  I used a MicroMark® spring bender, Phil.

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So you are a plumber  :mutley

Last edited on Tue Dec 13th, 2016 04:43 pm by Phil.c

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Great work on the lamp, that stand has seen better day's :mutley

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Thanks, Aaron. 

It changes colour with each new enterprise.  :lol:

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I'm doing a tutorial on the O scale forum, on how to make these street lights.



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So, what have I been doing?

I've been working on a jig to make opened venetian blinds.



Lots of failures, but I finally cracked it using Evergreen .010 x .040"   (0.25 x 1.0 mm) Strip Styrene.



Sorry about the clarity, but you can see the idea.
Only a dozen to go. 

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More servos required to open/close the blinds? :pedal

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:hmm

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That's a great jig, I think a nit comb is needed for 00 :roll:

Phil

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Must admit I misread your post first time Max and thought it said 'opening'.


My immediate thought was, what minute decoder is he going to use for that  :lol:


Looks good though, nice effect  :thumbs



Ed


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Thanks, guys.  You have no idea the amount of swearing which was required to arrive at that solution.  :lol:

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Absolutely ingenious Max, but how would bald modelers fare ?

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Our combs are in pristine condition, Allan.  :lol:

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Steal your wife's :)

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Or surplus to requirements Max ?

Allan

Last edited on Wed Dec 21st, 2016 04:58 pm by allan downes

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Now.  Where was I?   Oh, yes.

Venetian blinds . . .







Lots of horizontal lines is tricky to photograph. 
I'm liking Phil's idea of a lintel to hide the join, more and more.  I'm thinking only one brick wide, though.  :hmm

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It would need to be at least one and a half bricks high because of the join, it would look good but prototipically, I guess it would be the floor throughout, would it be strong enough at that thickness?

Also, I have seen windows like yours with no lintels, there must be girders in there I expect, but what about the windows and door below as there's half a brick course above?

A bit picky :roll:...I don't think so as this is not realistic enough when serious photos are taken of the finished area and your eyes are always going to go to it ;-)

BTW. The blinds look excellent ;-)

Phil


Last edited on Wed Dec 28th, 2016 01:27 pm by Phil.c

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Thanks, Phil

It's only noticeable in photos.

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Phil.c wrote: It would need to be at least one and a half bricks high because of the join, it would look good but prototipically, I guess it would be the floor throughout, would it be strong enough at that thickness?



Also, I have seen windows like yours with no lintels, there must be girders in there I expect, but what about the windows and door below as there's half a brick course above?



A bit picky :roll:...I don't think so as this is not realistic enough when serious photos are taken of the finished area and your eyes are always going to go to it ;-)



BTW. The blinds look excellent ;-)



Phil






Hi Max and Phil,

A couple of thoughts to consider.

1. A full length lintel, or more realistically the edge of an overall concrete floor extending to the edge, would not normally be employed in a low rise two storey, so if re-sticking the join is a non-starter, how about a decorative brick band course to cover the joint?

2. All construction openings require lintels of course, although they're not always evident and the ground floor door and windows look as if steel cavity lintels are employed, such as Catnic units, which I used to specify over 40 years ago and are still going strong and are prototypical for this type of construction: http://catnic.com/products/lintels

A cracking job as usual and the model with its details and accessories looks bang on, as do the night shots.

Bill

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Thanks, Bill.

Like everyone else, I'm biased by our local buildings.  Openings in brick walls here have a large steel angle iron bricked into the inside  of the courses, so that the bricks appear to be holding themselves up.

Similar to the Catnic ones, but simpler - made of two pieces of angle iron back to back.

The photographs show up the vagueries of the printer as well, as the courses of bricks are slightly distorted. 

Honestly, the join between the two floors isn't really obvious when it's seen with the naked eye.  The paper edges have been knocked about and need re-glueing, and once I've finished working on it, I'll seal them down and visitors won't even notice them.

Also, my MO is to photograph projects as I go.  It will slowly morph into a tired building, which will match the dishevilled venetian blinds, which have been bent over the years by people pulling them apart to look out of the windows.

The next step is to fit some down pipes to the four corners of the building.  They will look new as well until I can slowly blend them in.  They will be a challenge, as they each have to be in two pieces, so I can still lift the upper floor off.

:shock:  Hopefully they won't be as finicky as the blinds.  :lol:

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Hi Max and great to know you had it covered all along!

Looking forward to the distressing.

Bill

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Hi Max,

Bill's spot on - the only reason for a full-length/width lintel (technically a concrete surround I believe) would be a concrete floor with heavy equipment (or a building height that passes the limit for bricks). The floor joists would be supported by the interior wall. Designers and builders hate working with half-bricks (mortar doesn't have the strength of brick), so lintels are engineered to be 1, 2 or 3 brick heights (3 is convenient, standard brick is 3.5", a 12" lintel is a good match for 3 brick courses with mortar).

One think I've appreciated from this is get a big printer if you model in O-scale. Or take the file to the local print shop.

Nigel

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Hi Nigel

I think that I'm over reacting a bit once I post photos.  When I look at the model on the layout, the join doesn't stand out - and once I titivate them with a bit more glue, I reckon that they won't bother me.

I'm using a laser printer to obviate problems with the ink running and it has printed wide enough to handle the brick warehouse next to it.  Also, the warehouse used Scalescenes sheets which print out perfectly.  John didn't have the brick size I wanted, so I tried http://www.textures.com  Their sheets are not so accurate.

The other thing I need to keep in mind is that the buildings are supposed to be secondary to the trains.  They are mainly to divide the layout down the middle as a kind of 3D backdrop, so I shouldn't be so obsessive.

I've spent something like two weeks building the venetian blinds, when stick on ones are available!  :lol:

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For a bit of relief, I've done a bit more on the scenario at the bottom of the slipway . . .



Now that the infill has passed this area, I can complete the beach and water.

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Good job Max...nice touch with the torch too.

Phil

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Nice piccy that  :thumbs


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You're doing a really great job Max and I wouldn't worry about small insignificant details such as half bricks, lintels etc, just build for the whole and not the individual.

Allan.

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Good advice Max :)

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Thanks, guys.  I appreciate your support.  :cheers

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MaxSouthOz wrote: For a bit of relief, I've done a bit more on the scenario at the bottom of the slipway . . .



Now that the infill has passed this area, I can complete the beach and water.

That really looks the part Max.
Excellent modelling :thumbs

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MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, guys.  I appreciate your support.  :cheers


But will you remember to wear it Max!:mutley

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Thanks, Tony.

Hopefully, Jeff.  :lol:

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This works Max?

Phil

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That's an elegant idea, Phil.  :thumbs

Conduit!        Thank you.  :cheers

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One thing that I've learned this week, is that surface mounted LEDs don't focus the way that the 3 mm high intensity LEDs do.

Despite masking the sides of the SML with black paint, it won't throw a beam of light forward.



Not to worry.  In the room, it looks OK.

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Meanwhile, the infill slowly creeps along the wharf . . .


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MaxSouthOz wrote: One thing that I've learned this week, is that surface mounted LEDs don't focus the way that the 3 mm high intensity LEDs do.

Despite masking the sides of the SML with black paint, it won't throw a beam of light forward.



Not to worry.  In the room, it looks OK.

Is that ballast or boulders there Max !


Allan

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Kinda ballastie-boulders, Allan.

You know what these shipwright wallahs are like.  They'll use anything.  :lol:

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I needed an anemometer head for the Harbor Master's building and I couldn't find one anywhere - so - scratch built one.



First, a highly sophisticated jig was made with a 2 mm hole drilled in it.  A piece of 2 mm brass tube was inserted into it and four pieces of 0.5 mm brass rods were taped in position to form the arms.  Then soldered.



Another piece of 2 mm brass tube had two pieces of 0.5 mm brass rod soldered on to form the frame for the wind vane.



Then four glass rosary beads were CA glued in place.  Bad idea!  Glass won't cut with a Dremel wheel.  It just gets red hot!



Four plastic ones were substituted.  Much better.



Then the faces of the beads were cut away with the Dremel wheel.  Some spacers were cut from the 2.0 mm tube and it was sent to the paint shop.



A bit of flat black paint was added to simulate a hollow hemisphere.



In place. 

And it actually works!


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Bit breezy down your way Max  :thumbs

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Looks great Max, but............

isn't it rotating the wrong way?

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Superb Max,
My sort of modelling.

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I got very dizzy from all of the blowing, Ed.  :lol:

I think the film must be in backwards, Jeff.  :shock:

Thanks, Rob.  :cool:

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I vote Max's anemometer vid as Vid Of The Month and the anemometer itself as anemometer of the year.

Fantastic modelling from down under.


Allan

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That's just brilliant Max.
Pure genius :doublethumb

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Thanks, guys.

I think I need to make the flagpole taller, now.  :oops:

The flag will foul the radio antenna.  :roll:

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52 patterns and 52 pieces of basswood ply later, I've finally reached the end of the centre module.



Fettling, painting and weathering powders to come.

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Now I'm around the other side, making patterns.



Off to cut the basswood ply.  It's 40º C today.  Too hot to venture outside. 

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Now, the pattern is replaced by the plywood.



The footpath has been undercoated - as has the lane behind the warehouse.

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While I'm waiting for the PVA to set up, I've gone back to the scenario at the slipway.

I want to simulate the remains of an old jetty.  Just a few rotting piles sticking out of the sand.

So, grab some Meranti dowel . . .



And give it the treatment in the bench grinder.

Then hack it about with a draw knife.



Finish the job with a wire brush.



Cut the good bits off and insert nails for mounting.



I'm doing the weathering the other way around this time.  It was suggested to me by a modeller here whose opinion I respect.  We'll see.



A wash of white.



And some marine growth.  Not bad.



It will need the sea around it, but I reckon it will do.

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Searching for some lost enthusiasm, I've just read your thread from start to finish again Max.  It's truly a masterpiece.

As ever, the way you tackle the detail is inspiring and the results are equally so.  The addition of all the "electrickery" make it so much more than a "layout" with clever little cameos popping up everywhere.

This latest addition of the rotted piles is no exception.  Your "eye" is just amazing and the way you are managing to replicate nature is wonderful.  Even the likes of Allan and Phill are impressed so you can imagine what effect it has on me !!!

A little more of this might just re-light my fire.

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Thanks, Peter.

That's got to be a good thing.  :cool:

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I don't know whether to feel elated or depressed.
Sometimes I look at the level of detail that some modellers can produce & I think to myself. "Give it up boy you'll never produce anything to this level" but when I see it explained so simply I think "I can do that"

So Max keep it going & keep explaining it as you go along.
It gives inspiration to the rest of us to carry on :cheers

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Tony...don't feel depressed, modelling is not brain surgery, it's mostly common sense, as you are finding out with Max's explanations etc ;-)

BTW...nice piles Max :)

Phil

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Thanks, Guys.

You should see the stuff that ends up in the bin, Tony.  :lol:

I'll tell you my secret.  I find a photo on the net, print it off and keep it nearby as I make the bits.

Sshhh . . .

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Phil.c wrote: Tony...don't feel depressed, modelling is not brain surgery, it's mostly common sense, as you are finding out with Max's explanations etc ;-)

BTW...nice piles Max :)

Phil

Only joking Phil.
As you say its mostly common sense & logic.

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MaxSouthOz wrote: Thanks, Guys.

You should see the stuff that ends up in the bin, Tony.  :lol:

I'll tell you my secret.  I find a photo on the net, print it off and keep it nearby as I make the bits.

Sshhh . . .

I don't use a bin Max.
I just keep the window open with a skip outside :lol:

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:mutley

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Nah.  Didn't like them.  They were bugging me.

Here's an example of "in the bin"  Tony.

Do them again.



Still not quite right, but better.  :roll:

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Ingenious modelling as ever Max. Realism at its best.

Allan.

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Thanks, Allan.

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Just visited Dartmouth Max and thought you might be interested in these pics, notice the algae on the walls at high tide and the weeds with white flowers higher up.

Phil



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Thanks, Phil.

There is a lot to learn from those shots.  It's obviously tidal, so I'm guessing that it's sea water.  One thing that hit me was the extended handles on the ladders.  I think that mine are too short in at least a couple of instances.

I'll be looking at them a lot.  :thumbs

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Those ladder extentions make a lot of sense as it would be difficult getting onto the ladders without them.

BTW, IMO, there was nothing wrong with the chains that a spot of rust would fix...they just looked too "new".

Phil

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I haven't worried too much about the chains on the tyres, Phil.  They are over scale and I hope to find some replacements for them.  Then I'll rust them up a bit.

There is actually a large link chain lying on the ballast, but it's hard to see since I weathered it.  :lol:.

I've since moved it on to the dirt.

I'm still faffing about with the stumps of the piles, so I'll try to get a better shot of it after my next attempt.

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Great shots Phil. :thumbs :thumbs :thumbs

Regarding the ladders - often Max, the ladder did end level with the jetty.  It was sometimes recessed in a ladder-wide groove in the quay wall to stop boats smashing into it.  When it stopped level with the jetty, there were often a couple of horizontal "handrails" set into the jetty surface to act as grab rails.  Just a couple of inches high.

I've also seen them goose-necking over the edge of the quay for the same purpose.

But then yours is is a timber wharf edge but the same thing goes.

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Thanks, Peter.

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So, ever darting from place to place, before I can paint and weather the TimeSaver area in front of the warehouse, I have had to complete the infill at the back, so I can stand the warehouse there while I work.



I've fitted a footpath/sidewalk/pavement at the side of the roadway.  It's 6 mm MDF, which creates two blocks for making my street buildings.  I'm really looking forward to that.  It's 6 mm MDF as each building will have a footplate of 6 mm, which will drop into the space.

You can see the join between the two modules.  It's created a block which is 180 mm or 7" wide at the far end and 150 mm or 6" wide in the part nearest the camera.  The whole block is 2550 mm or 100" or 8"4" long, so I should be able to get a goodly number of buildings in there.

The curved area nearest the camera will be open ground with a large tree.  I envisage a garden seat with an old man (me ), sitting there with his faithful dog.
Summick like that, anyway. 

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Also, I've made some hand rails for the ladders, from 2 mm brass rod.



The close up photo shows the poor joins, but from a normal viewing distance, you can't notice them.

That reminds me; I haven't put in all of the bolts after I cut the ladder in. 

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Looking forward to the next bit Max. Any rough drawings of the proposed buildings?

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Excellent Max - I like the ladder. :thumbs

The long shot shows just how big it is - wow !!! :shock: :shock: :shock:

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Very impressive Max. What's the total overall size of the layout ?

Allan


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No, Reg.  It's just a blank canvas at the minute.  Some kind of a downtown row of shops?

Thanks, guys.  It's three modules of 1.7 metres = 5.1 metres.

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This is for Phil.

The new chains on the tyres have finally started to rust . . .



:mutley

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It didn't take long either for those new chains to rust Max, must be very salty air there :lol:

Lovely water effect, what method did you use for the white movement, it looks great ;-)

Phil

PS. What about some oil stains on the car parking areas?

Last edited on Mon Jan 16th, 2017 02:45 pm by Phil.c

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Thanks, Phil.

The painful story of the seawater is buried in the thread somewhere.  Basically, the form of the swells is created with plaster, which is pulled about with small palette knives to make the waves.  It's painted green, then overlaid with Liquitex® Gloss Super Heavy Gel, which is further pulled about with palette knives.  That lets the green show through.

Once the Gel has set up, but while it's still "green" it is dusted with white weathering powder - which is actually white powdered paint pigment.  I used one of those soft makeup blusher brushes.  It makes the gel have that opaque look that you see in the photo.  As the Gel completes its hardening, the powder bonds to the surface.

From then on, maintenance is by just vacuuming, using the crevice nozzle of the vacuum cleaner to remove the inevitable dust.

As you have already discovered, I think about scenic effects a long time before I act.  I will often experiment away from the camera - as I did with the seawater.  The whole wharf area has been overlaid with 2.0 mm basswood ply and painted to look like bitumen once I have done the weathering.

At the moment, it is still in it's RAW state.  There will be many oil and other spills and marks as it develops, but it will improve over time.  A lot of the materials I use take a while to set, so I need to have many cameos on the go to give me something else to do while I wait.

I also have to deal with depression.  Modelling allows me to divert myself as I work my way through the processes.

It's mostly about the journey.   :cool:

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I couldn't go look while I was posting, but I've found the story of the sea water.

Post 1 is very long as I lost my first thread and had to re-post it.

If you look near the bottom of Post 1, you will find the photos of the commencement of the development of the water.

Even then, the final solution bobs up in later posts, as the process carries on.  :lol:

Sorry about that.  :roll:

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Thanks Max.

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This has convinced me that I must find some space on my current effort for a dockside. 
Brilliant stuff.

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Thanks, Warren.

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With the completion of the infill on the centre module.  I've done some basic weathering with powders and grass.









Once I'm satisfied that all of the turnouts are still working correctly, I'll add some more vegetation and the remaining fluro lights.

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Coming on nicely Max  :thumbs

Did you ever make a decision on the old jetty/piles?



Ed

(PS has the seal got a name  :lol:)


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Don't forget the high tide algae Max, not just weathered but some thickness to it ;-)

Phil

Last edited on Thu Jan 19th, 2017 12:21 pm by Phil.c

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Thanks, Ed.

No.  I'm still not satisfied with them.

It's a Leopard seal.  I don't think that they have names.  :lol:

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I love the fact that you are using texture papers in O scale. That you make such awesome and realistic looking buildings with them in a larger scale is wonderful, and gives me hope that the O scale kits I've been collecting from Clevermodels will look great on the layout I will eventually build for my handful of O scale stock. :D

Thanks for sharing your progress, it looks fantastic. :)

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Thanks, Daniel.  I appreciate your kind words.

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I've installed my scratch built goose neck street lights this weekend.

 

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And they work too :)

Phil

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:thumbs

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Your night time pictures are rather good Max :thumbs


Ed

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Incredible.

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Thank you, Chaps.

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The next building in line is the boat builder's.  A sail maker has leased the top floor.



The two walls nearest the camera have been glued.

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What's all that high tech gubbenry doing leaning up against the walls Max ? Are we in for a treat !


Allan.

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Transformers?

Phil

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I find these magnetic corner braces very handy, I use the smaller ones for N gauge,

http://www.yorkmodelrail.com/useful-bits?page=2

They also do quite a few detail parts, windows, doors, steps etc. in N, 00 and 0  scales.

http://www.yorkmodelrail.com/0-scale

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I've started converting my fluros to LEDs, Allan.  They are the ballasts from the ones I've done.

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That's a handy resource.  Thanks, Mike.

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I have been specifically refused permission to post an image of the original.

Maybe I can post the link to the Google reference . . .

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=boat+builders+shed&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjPlp_21YHSAhXSq5QKHdQTC00Q7AkIWQ&biw=1920&bih=940#imgrc=SyirHWug8St7vM:

I've had to compress it a bit to get it in.

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Dunno if it's me Max, but the link gives lots of pictures  of  a restaurant  :???:




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I saw lots of pictures of sheds - and some boats...

Allan

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Is it the one of the big rusty shed?


Last edited on Thu Feb 9th, 2017 01:32 pm by Phil.c

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Yes.  It should take you to a picture of a big rusty shed.

Ed
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Got it, just keep scrolling down.

Certainly rusty.


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Layout is looking awesome, Max. :)

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Thanks, Dan.  :cool:

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Here's the lid . . .





Still a bit of tidying up with the sanding block, I see. 

Marty
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I need a jib made up for my sail canoe... think they'll be up to it?
Lovely work Max. The infill is coming along very nicely, not easy to get lined up and flush I imagine?

cheers

Marty

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I wouldn't hold my breath, Marty.

It's actually fairly simple using the card templates.  Mostly time consuming.

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OK  I've been working on a grade crossing (level crossing).

Using the US Scale Scenes company kits.  One with bell and one with finial.

Much faffing about, much filing, much swearing and replacing of the krappy LEDs they supplied, I finally came up with . . .



I made the signs on the laser printer.

I used a Short Circuits kids' flasher kit and a http://www.ittproducts.com bell module.



and it came out like this . . .



The flasher is a bit fast, but that's a job for another day.

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Good stuff!

Phil

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I once had an order to build " Big Mary's Tart Shop" for an O Gauge American layout and the customer asked if I could fit flashing lights. If only I had heard of you then Max...

Allan.

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"Big Mary's Tart Shop" is that for real Allan  :Happy

Phil

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:lol:

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And finally the Azatrax Block Detector is tested with the combine.



Yaay!  It works!

allan downes
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Well, it was either that or "Electric Mary's" Phil.

Allan

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:lol:

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Phil.c wrote: "Big Mary's Tart Shop" is that for real Allan  :Happy

Phil

Oh, and the one I frequented in Soho was.


Allan

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Here's a context shot, to see how the boatbuilder's/sailmaker's building will sit in the landscape.



I've had to abandon the lean-to on the front of the building, due to lack of space.

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That'll work ;-)

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I Love the launching track with the boat on it, very like one at a big sailing club near me. Complete with the winch box, theirs is old tatty and black tarred / painted.

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Nice :thumbs :thumbs :thumbs



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Thanks, guys.

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I've started to dress the front of the building, so I need stairs and a landing.



In this not very good photo, the stairs are being assembled.



I always like to work on a 1/4" plate glass sheet where I can.



I made the treads 2'6" wide, but they look a bit over scale to me.  They are only tacked in place, so I can think about them some more.

Parallax is at work again.  The landing is actually below the upstairs window sills. 

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Max wrote:I always like to work on a 1/4" plate glass sheet where I can.

Top tip Max for practically any build to ensure straightness and I'm most pleased to see that you also enrich the modelling experience with that other great aid to well being generally, du vin rouge!

Continued happy modelling,

Bill 
Location: a charming little wine producing village in France :cheers 

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Being less adventurous (read lazy) I'd look for something like this

http://www.plastruct.co.uk/StairsT2.html

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Merci beaucoup  - but of course.  :lol:

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I've moved the schooner Agelis (Google it - it's an interesting story), out of the way to take some photos of the new building.



Now another "progress" shot of the building.  It's slow progress. 



Oh!  And what's this?



Well, I never . . . lights!

The wonders of teck nollergee. 

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Another boring progress shot for reference.



It's very tidy for a building site. 

Ed
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That looks alright Max :thumbs

What did you use for the corrugated sheeting in the end.


Ed

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Thanks, Ed.

I eventually went with Clever Models O scale rusty steel.

I thought that it was going to be too red, but it's growing on me.

I have to cut out some patches to stick on here and there.

I actually found an unattributed photo of the same building, so I can use it here.  It was mixed in a free download page on Google, so no copyright.



Once I start patching it, I think that will improve the look of the model.

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Looks good.

Are the scaffolding uprights to scale Max as they look to be 8" or over in diameter?

Phil

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No.

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Oh!

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Parallax deception... one of my design/building nightmares.. you have my sympathies

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Sorry.  I have had some distractions.

The scaffolding was thrown together from some scrap styrene I had lying around.

And now for some decoupage to simulate repairs to the iron cladding.



The landing, stairs and upstairs doors are just tacked in place for the time being.

I'll need them out of the way when I fit the windows.

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I'll need them out of the way when I fit the windows.
I always fit windows and most doors before I join walls together, mind you in N gauge it would be a bit difficult to worrk inside an assembled building.

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I reckon it would, Mike.  :lol:

I put the glass in first, then build the frames piece by piece, over the glass.

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So, a little more progress.  Windows, down pipes and waste pipe.







I'm not so happy with the back wall.  I think that the patches should have been smaller pieces, each one slightly skewed.

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Get some vines & creepers on it & they will help to hide that regularity of replacement iron sheets.
But it is looking good...

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Thanks, Sol.

It's easy enough to stick some more sheets on.  I just didn't realise what it looked like until I saw the photo.  :lol:

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It's still a nice job. And who knows, maybe the patching was done by someone really fussy about things being straight

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Ha!  That would be me.  :lol:

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You're probably sick of looking at this building.  I know that I am. 

It's done - you'll be glad to hear.





Peter Jackson MMR is the one who built the Agelis kit.

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Looking good too and very much like the original;-)
I bet it's a big model being in 0 gauge!

Phil

Last edited on Wed Mar 8th, 2017 01:34 pm by Phil.c

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Thanks, Phil  I've tried to retain the flavour of the building on a small footprint.

It's 22 cm x 23 cm x 23 cm to the peak of the roof.  Actually it's the smallest building on the layout - but yes, still pretty big.

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Back to the Harbor Master/Pilot's etc., building.

Pat from P&D Hobbies has patiently gathered many Plastruct office furniture kits for me.

Here's the floor layout (dodging the rafters) . . .







. . . and now a vain attempt to see it all through the venetian blinds . . .



Hmmm. 

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I wouldn't call it vain, I can see a good bit and it looks quite convincing!

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Thanks, Brendan.

You can actually see more in the room, here.

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The image doesn't seem to be loading

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Which image?

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MaxSouthOz wrote: Which image?
Well, the wording in your "You can actually see more in the room, here" post would seem to imply that it should have an image.. Or am I misinterpreting it?

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That's just the way we speak.  ;-)

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MaxSouthOz wrote: That's just the way we speak. Cobber.   ;-)


Added dialogue.


Allan.

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:lol:

In FNQ (Far North Queensland), the very isolated people who lived there, used only to have 2 way radios.  Even when talking face to face with them, they couldn't help themselves saying "over" at the end of their sentences.

Modern technology has destroyed another quaint dialect.  :roll:

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People where I live text each other instead of talking....over!

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People where I live just grunt.

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'Tis mighty refreshing in our little French village, where everyone you see says "Bonjour" to you and with a smile!

Vivre la difference!

Bill

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I took the boatbuilder's shed to the NMRA meeting on Saturday and Peter Jackson MMR said that it needed a light over the landing to finish it off, so . . .







allan downes
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Tell you what makes perfect O Gauge lamps Max. The plastic parts of remembrance day poppies.

Allan

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Well, I certainly wouldn't want to be futzing around on that landing without being able to see what I was doing

Phil.c
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The stairs do look a little steep or is it the camera angle?

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What do you suggest I do about it?

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The stairs look OK to me Max where they are but if they are of any concern, then you could rise them from the side of the building at a slower angle which has no windows or doors to worry about.

Allan

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It doesn't look so steep on a couple of the other pictures, but if you did want the angle less, there are a few possibilities, some with minimum work and some with extra work.
One possibility but not totally ideal would be to move the bottom of the steps closer to the opening, cut the door platform shorter at the top, to give the steps a shallower angle but by doing this, the platform would need to be lowered and a step made in front of the door, it might or might not be noticeable that the steps themselves would be tilting back slightly...as I said, not ideal.

The other method would be to leave the platform where it is but cut it shorter, make new steps that are closer to the door opening at the bottom........or leave everything as it is ;-)

Phil

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Or you could go to the pub instead Max !  :cheers


Allan

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We went to an outside gala here last night, all the booze for free.....and another invite tonight of the same:cheers

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I know all about these so called outside Gala's, and especially the Welsh ones, so where the lap dancers free as well Phil ?

Allan

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Love the details on this layout. The corrugated building looks awesome, and the furniture in the office looks spot on. :)

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Oh, and please tell me there will be the obligatory "Hang in there" kitten poster on the wall!!!

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The building is hemmed in on all sides, so the only place for the stairs is at the front - as per the prototype.  Originally there was a landing halfway up, but once again due to lack of space, there is no room to bring the stairs out from the front of the building.  That is why the lean-to on the prototype had to go.

There is no other way to have the stairs, other than the way it is.  If I move the foot of the stairs closer to the doorway, it looks wrong.

I spent many hours drawing it up to get the best result I can, given the space constraints.  I'm certainly not rebuilding it, as it can only be this way.

Thanks, Daniel.

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Leave well alone Max, it looks great the way it is ;-)
Allan, the lap dancers are not for free, they take cash, credit cards and PayPal.

Phil

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Thanks, Phil.

Many hours of planning went into squeezing a quart into a pint pot.  :lol:

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Phil.c wrote: Leave well alone Max, it looks great the way it is ;-)
Allan, the lap dancers are not for free, they take cash, credit cards and PayPal.

Phil

They still barter in livestock up here in Grimsby Phil. Chickens, pigs etc and anything that squeaks or squawks, grunts or growls.



Allan

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It's sheep here Allan....some are better looking than others :mutley

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Every one I ever met Phil was beautiful. Then again I'm not fussy -  shortsighted yes, fussy no.

BTW. When I worked in Aberaeron (?) and just before I wrote the bosses transit off on the back road from New Quay dodging sheep,I went out with quite a few Welsh lasses - gorgeous to say the least !   


Allan

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;-);-);-)

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The humor on this page is very British

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It would be interesting to count up the number of motor vehicles you have crashed, Allan.  :mrgreen:

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An unknown quantity, Max. But at a guess, at least one of every mark. 


"....then there was this Robin Reliant and some Bentley or another on Whalebone Lane roundabout. Anyway..."


Allan

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How could you crash a Reliant Allan...the most stable of all cars and with excellent road holding...much much better than my red Italian car :mutley

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Robin Reliant?  I thought that you were making it up.  :lol:

Is that really a car?  :???:

I know.  I know.  Google it.  :roll:


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Mmmm. nothing more to be said then about Reliants ?

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Hmmm, except I guess that's what may happen if you reverse an old Morgan with too much "spirit"!

Please don't say that you've done that Allan!

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The Robin Reliant was designed to cull motorists. Everything that could possibly be termed as lethal was built into it. If you bought one your life expectancy  was reduced to almost nil and certainly many were reduced to even less than that. 

The first one I had was fitted with a bean can power bump pop riveted on the bonnet and a leather steering wheal that did nothing to save it when I  rammed into a 2 ton Bentley on a Southend Arterial roundabout and the driver of the Bentley didn't even know that I had until he saw bits of Reliant flying all over his car.



I had two. one in buttercup yellow, the other in British Racing Green  and a stripe that impressed nobody and not least of all girls. By now of course you'll know what happened to them - the cars that is.


Allan

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Did your yellow one have Trotter's Indipendant Traders on the side, TIT for short :)
I knew a guy that put a racing engine in his, he also had to upgrade the springs and shocks to try and stop it rolling, he was a crazy guy, he bought a tattoo machine and practiced on his mother's arms:roll:

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That's impressive, Phil.  :thumbs

Only two days work . . .



It's tidied up that area.


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The Helicon missed a couple of spots, but the fence came out OK.

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Looking great Max!

Re. Helicon...that's exactly what I was talking about in my thread,ie. the fence area to the right and the rope loop.

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Yes.  The photo was a composite of 17 shots and still two out of focus ones snuck in.  :lol:


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Too many me thinks Max?

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It's hard to say, Phil.

I find that if I zoom in, I need extra ones to cover everything.  I think that they were possibly too far apart. 

If I get time later today, I'll try it again with more shots in the range.

The depth of field was great - it was just a couple of duds.

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What f stop are you using?

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It varies.  That lot was shot using 6.3

I've tried across the range on aperture priority.  It doesn't seem to make any difference.

I'll try pushing it up to 25 and then down to 3.8 and see if there is any improvement.

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Much better up around 22 or over, that way the depth of field is much better to start with and less work for Helicon's software.
I set my camera to manual, f22, adjust the shutter speed to the correct one using the meter, then move the focus point (in my case a small rectangle) to various parts, zoom to that area and manually focus, the timer is alway on for these shots.

Phil

Last edited on Mon Mar 20th, 2017 02:08 am by Phil.c

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For shooting models I put away the DSLR and use a bridge or compact on f8 or f11, having a way shorter focal length lens the DOF is much better.

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Unless you want everything in focus :)

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Hi Phil

Unfortunately my eyes aren't good enough at 70 to look through the view finder, so I use the screen on the back of the camera.  I can barely tell what's in focus, until I move to the outer ends of the range.

So I start where I know that it's out of focus and then, using the IR shutter release and a tripod, I gradually move the focus ring around a notch at a time and take around 20 - 30 shots, until I can clearly see that it's out of focus again.

I use the knurling on the focus ring to guesstimate equal spaces between the shots.  For long shots, I can get away with two marks of space.  The more I zoom in, the less distance I have to rotate between shots to cover all focal points.

I'll try it again tonight using F22 and half notch spacing.

Cheers

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Max, your age...that explaines it as I'm just a youngster compared with you..at 69 ;-)

I also view by means of the screen, but with my camera I can blow up the focus area very big so it's then easy to get it sharp, but it makes sense using f22, my other lense (broken) could go to f32. My Canon G12 is great for tight shots but only goes to f8, hence the blurred patchy areas I spoke of with some of my earlier pictures.

If you think about it, with multiple shots say with f8 for example, each shot will have a limited DOF and lots of out of focus areas, with f22 most of the shots will be in good focus, so there's much less for Helicon to adjust.

Phil

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That makes sense, Phil.

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I dunno, you youngsters are always complaining, I'm 83 on Sunday don't remember having any of those problems, mind you I don't remember much else either.

Phil.c
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I bet you remember a Box Brownie though Mike ;-) those were the days :mutley

Phil

Last edited on Mon Mar 20th, 2017 02:30 pm by Phil.c

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:mutley   :cool wink

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No Brownie, we had an Agfa box; currently in my "collection" I have 3 Zeiss folding Ikontas, a Minolta 5000, 2 bridge cameras, 2 DSLRs and 2 video cameras, think there's also a compact hiding in a cupboard; & about 10 lenses for the DSLRs

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Some of the best model shots I took was with the wife's pink girlie camera worth about next to nowt. It had a USB cable so I could import the pictures to my computer (  for years we did wonder what that was for ) and you just pointed it and  fired away. Then, I bought  a Canon SX60 HS Power Shot that's completely wasted on me where all I dare do with it is to set it on Auto and let it do its thing and, how does it compare to wifey's girlie camera ? Well, to be quite honest, I can't see any difference at all other than the battery pack seems to last for ever.

Allan.

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I'm just doing some catching up Max and I must say, I've been missing out on some excellent modelling.  I think the building looks great although I think I'm with you on the replacement sheets on the back.  They just look a little too spruce ............. :roll: :roll:  Until I saw the close-up, I'd not have guessed the tin sheets weren't 3D.

The colour looks perfect as does the fencing.  :thumbs The steps do look a bit steep but they do look right against that building.  On residentail property, they'd have put a dog's leg in but in an industrial situation ......... :roll: :roll:......especially in the days long before Elf and Softy. ;-)


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Dorsetmike wrote: No Brownie, we had an Agfa box; currently in my "collection" I have 3 Zeiss folding Ikontas, a Minolta 5000, 2 bridge cameras, 2 DSLRs and 2 video cameras, think there's also a compact hiding in a cupboard; & about 10 lenses for the DSLRs

The other day, I wanted to digitise some old slides. Amongst my multitude of assorted old cameras etc., I have a Bowens Illumitran slide copier which does/did a fantastic job but, as I bought it when I was in that field of work, long before digital cameras were anything like affordable, the bellows mounts wouldn't fit my DSLR and, try as I did, I couldn't get my bridge camera anywhere near focus on the slide.  Bowens never made a mount suitable for my DSLR so I think the Illumitran will have to stay in the cupboard until film cameras make a come-back ........................ :cry: :cry: :cry: Sadly, unless it has Hasselblad or Leica written on it, old camera gear of any kind is hardly worth the cost of advertising it.

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