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Kadee electromagnets - Layout Design, Trackwork & Operation. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2015 02:46 pm
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Sol
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A series of photos on the installation of electromagnets on my layout ( I thought I  had written words on how I did it but they are missing...)
















ballasted with sleepers painted yellow to indicate overall length of magnet & LEDs which are in parallel with coil to indicate when in use. requires a good 16v DC 3 Amp source



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 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2015 03:51 pm
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toto
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Thanks for that. A good reference point for later.

Cheers

Toto

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 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2015 05:12 pm
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BCDR
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Hi Ron,

It's a good design, my hobby shop still sells quite a few. I was looking at the demo Rapido unit in the shop yesterday, much neater. Coming in any day soon, so as soon as I get my hands on a couple of them I'll install and write it up.


Nigel



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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2015 07:05 pm
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paul_l
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Nice one Ron

For those looking for a good 16V DC 3A psu, try an ex IBM Laptop psu

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IBM-08K8206-ThinkPad-16VDC-4-5A-AC-Adapter-FRU-08K8207-IBM-/360472964831?hash=item53eddceedf

Paul



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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2015 02:46 am
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Petermac
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I note that IBM PSU needs the plug in lead to complete the package - are they readily available ?

What do you use to power yours Sol and are they better than the fixed magnets or is it just that they're invisible ? :hmm



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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2015 03:17 am
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paul_l
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Hi Peter

Mains end is a clover leaf 3 pin type socket, DC end I just cut off the plug, the outer shieldsing is the -ve, the centre core is the positive. I've done this on several laptop psu's.

Paul



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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2015 04:35 am
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Sol
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Peter, I use this for the Kadee electromagnets
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/16V-4-5A-AC-Adapter-Power-Supply-Charger-For-IBM-ThinkPad-T40-X40-R51-Laptop-PSU-/331215814196?hash=item4d1e003e34

used on the two platform tracks in Tawnton so false uncoupling does not occur if a passenger train should stop over them - I have installed 3 on each track - one in the middle and at each end of the platforms.

I also cut off the output plag & wired to terminal strips.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2015 05:36 am
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:hmm

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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2015 12:17 pm
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Toto said " :hmm"

Don't worry, Toto you will exactly what is meant, as the PSU for your Traverser is a Lenovo 20V DC laptop brick with the plug cut off :lol:

I can almost hear Hattons cash register dinging :mutley

Paul



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 Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2015 05:10 am
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Hi Ron.

I am presuming that you are using the Kadee 309. I have a few of the older 307's which sit level with the rails. I plan to use them in the terminus I am building at the moment.
Can I ask the purpose of the led & how do you wire it into the circuit ? Also I read somewhere that when you release the push button there is an inductive kickback, whatever that is ? Apparently it does the switch contacts no good at all & leads to switch failure ?

Regards.Tony.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2015 05:26 am
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paul_l
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Hi Tony

If you are using a DC supply, then a diode wired in reverse across the coil will help protect the contacts when the coil is de-energised.

Paul.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2015 05:42 am
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amdaley
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Hi Paul.
Thanks for that. Does it matter which way the diode goes & what kind of diode did you have in mind? 
Could you explain a bit more about how to do it please?
Regards.
Tony.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2015 09:24 am
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Sol
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Tony, the LED with a 1.5K ohm resistor is series is wired in parallel with the coil - you may need to reverse connections to get it to work as it depends on what polarity is on what input leads.

The diode can be a IN4004 with the bar end connected to positive power connection.


Interesting that the original Kadee pushbuttons 160, 161 & 162 were very simple and seemed to last for years.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2015 04:22 pm
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Not wishing to hijack your thread Sol but have you, or indeed anyone else for that matter, tried Kaydees with a DG uncoupler?

The reason I ask is your superb 'how to' shows track lifting and all manner of carpentry being required when retro fitting their magnets... with DG's its only a matter of a 7mm hole drilled down between the sleepers through the already laid trackbed... I just wondered if they would be worthy of consideration to save on all this Barry Bucknell stuff.....

(nb Barry Bucknell = UKTV presenter from many, many moons ago specialising in diy).



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 Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2015 06:00 pm
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Sol wrote: Tony, the LED with a 1.5K ohm resistor is series is wired in parallel with the coil - you may need to reverse connections to get it to work as it depends on what polarity is on what input leads.

The diode can be a IN4004 with the bar end connected to positive power connection.


Interesting that the original Kadee pushbuttons 160, 161 & 162 were very simple and seemed to last for years.

Hi Ron.


Thank you for that clear explanation. The Kadee push buttons are no longer produced even though you can still get them at some outlets. Kadee recommend this type now. http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page163.htm
Is the reason for the 1.5K resistor because of the 15Volts of the power supply ?

Regards.
Tony.




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 Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2015 06:09 pm
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amdaley
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16A wrote: Not wishing to hijack your thread Sol but have you, or indeed anyone else for that matter, tried Kaydees with a DG uncoupler?

The reason I ask is your superb 'how to' shows track lifting and all manner of carpentry being required when retro fitting their magnets... with DG's its only a matter of a 7mm hole drilled down between the sleepers through the already laid trackbed... I just wondered if they would be worthy of consideration to save on all this Barry Bucknell stuff.....

(nb Barry Bucknell = UKTV presenter from many, many moons ago specialising in diy).


Hi Mike.
The problem with the DG magnets is that they pull in a downward direction whereas Kadee pull across to the sides.
Regards.
Tony.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2015 10:02 pm
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16A
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Thank you Tony... I didn't know that... learn something new everyday - even at my age... LOL



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 Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2015 10:40 pm
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Hi Tony

Sorry for the late reply - work got in the way



A 1N4001 diode will do as it can take a reverse voltage of 50V.
The negative end of the diode is connected to the positive coil supply, the positive leg of the diode to the negative of the coil.
Under normal use the diode does not conduct (providing the voltage is less than 50V) , however when the coil is de-energised, it produces a reverse voltage spike, the diode allows this to flow across it and protects the rest of the circuit.

Paul



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 Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2015 01:48 am
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paul_l wrote: Hi Tony

Sorry for the late reply - work got in the way



A 1N4001 diode will do as it can take a reverse voltage of 50V.
The negative end of the diode is connected to the positive coil supply, the positive leg of the diode to the negative of the coil.
Under normal use the diode does not conduct (providing the voltage is less than 50V) , however when the coil is de-energised, it produces a reverse voltage spike, the diode allows this to flow across it and protects the rest of the circuit.

Paul

That's great Paul.Thanks a lot.Regards.Tony.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2015 03:00 am
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Sol
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16A wrote: Not wishing to hijack your thread Sol but have you, or indeed anyone else for that matter, tried Kaydees with a DG uncoupler?



 

 

Kadees ( no 'y' in the word either) require magnets that pull to the side, that is along the rail - north pole one side & south the other. not sure how DG's work, they may pull down therefore north at the top & south at the bottom and if this is the case, then Kadees will not work.


 

 

$Edit by Sol - my post crossed with Tony's.



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