Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Scratchbuilding. > Couplings in bulk To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

Couplings in bulk - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2015 04:43 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1st post
wahiba
Full Member


Joined: Mon Jan 14th, 2013
Location: Keighley, United Kingdom
Posts: 267
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have a lot of older wagons with the simplex type coupling and others with the tension lock type, which looks awful. As a lot of the original couplings are a bit bent replacing many would seem like a good idea. Also converting others to the same type.

Now Peco make a nice basic simplex coupling, I even found Mr Prichards orignal patent on line. However it seems to be sold in packs of two at around £3 which makes them £1.50 each.

Firstly, does anyone know of a source for this coupling in bulk, up to 100 would be fine if the unit price is not too high.

Alternatively is there another recommended coupling that could be used in place of the simplex type that is available in bulk at a reasonable price? So long it is not obtrusive like the large tension lock type I am not bothered about appearances or mechanism. Auto coupling is required though, but I do not bother with auto decoupling, although i suppose i could with standardisation.

As you might gather I have a mixture of scratch and re-cycle locos and rolling stock.

Any suggestions appreciated.

David



____________________
freelance model railways and tramways
http://www.picsntech.co.uk/index_modrail.html
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2015 05:24 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 2nd post
BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3172
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi David,
Old school then. The price of the Simplex autocouplers is not that bad when compared to Kadee couplers. Couple of suggestions:
1.  eBay. 5 packs for 11 GBP at the moment.
2. Get them etched in nickel silver or steel. This would cost around 120 GBP for about 200-250 first run, lot less afterwards. No patent issues. 
3. Use horn type couplers, lot cheaper and neater.
4. Bite the bullet and go to Kadees.
I think automatic magnet decoupling requires the magnetic Simplex coupler, lot more expensive than the nylon ones.
Nigel



____________________
©Nigel C. Phillips
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2015 06:21 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 3rd post
BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3172
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi David,

Forgot to mention, the bent ones can easily be restored with small smooth-faced pliers (I'm sure you already know that).

I'm sure you could get at least a 10% discount off you called the smaller sellers (not Hattons, already discounted to £3.00) and said you wanted 50 packs.

I was wrong about the magnetic ones, same price.

One other possibility is the "junk" stalls at shows, old, damaged Peco wagons with Simplex couplers often go for £1.00 to £2.00.

Nigel



____________________
©Nigel C. Phillips
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2015 09:37 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 4th post
wahiba
Full Member


Joined: Mon Jan 14th, 2013
Location: Keighley, United Kingdom
Posts: 267
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi

Thanks for the suggestions. Bending them back to shape works, sort of. Re-bending anything never seems to be as good as the original.

I think I will try the toy fair scene just in case there are a load on offer.

I have also been checking out the Hornby site and interestingly their couplings are around £7 per 10. While the narrow loop link type would probably be OK they all seem to have NEM fitting which is not really compable with the single screw of the existing mechanism.

I am wondering if i could actually make them from scratch. As far as i can make out three parts individually bent out of simple strip and then soldered up might do the trick. I think there is some room for experimentation here.

David



____________________
freelance model railways and tramways
http://www.picsntech.co.uk/index_modrail.html
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2015 06:29 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 5th post
BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3172
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi David,

Narrow tension locks? Didn't think that was an option. Bachmann NEM shaft with pocket, cranked, and Parkside Dundas mounting blocks (PA34). Around £2.30 a wagon. Even cheaper if you went with screw on narrow tension locks, around £1.00-£1.50/wagon depending on whether long or short. eebygum could be cheaper.

Have you considered a bulk pack of Kadee #5's? Pack of 40 (20 wagons) is £19.95 from P&H Models in the UK.

Regards,

Nigel






____________________
©Nigel C. Phillips
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2015 11:28 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 6th post
Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4594
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

The current Railway Modeller has a useful, well illustrated article on coupling choices including prices.

Doug



____________________
'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil...' Aesop's Fables

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2015 12:18 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 7th post
16A
Deceased Member


Joined: Tue Sep 2nd, 2014
Location: Nottingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 186
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

DG couplings come on a fret of 16 for £3.50 to £5.70 (in 4mm scale - other scales are available) depending on the type you need - that's 21.8 to 35.6 pence EACH. They're easy to put together with no soldering, look the part and, best of all, they work very nicely with magnetic uncouplers - look even better if you chemically blacken them before assembly.
If you opt for these, buy a bending jig with them as these make assembly even easier.
Wizard Models sell them.....



____________________
Mike

Praise is an excellent fillip for waning ambition.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2015 09:54 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 8th post
BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3172
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi David (and Mike),

I haven't read the article in Railway Modeller (next month when it comes to Canada) but nearly all coupling systems are far removed from a 3-link coupling with or without tensioner. Or even a scale size knuckle coupling (although Kadee fine scale couplings come close).

DG's require around 9 folds and a bit of soldering for the steel pin. I wouldn't have the patience for 10, let alone a 100, even with the jig! Most of the coupling variations (S&W, AJ, Dingham, etc.) were designed by and for the fine-scale people in response to the large tension lock couplings,  prototypical close coupling and the need to have automatic uncoupling. Close coupling means of course sprung buffers. Visually none of them look that much better than a narrow tension lock. The Dingham system looks a lot better as it fits in the existing coupling hole but is handed (A and B ends). Which is OK for fixed rakes and engine runarounds, where both ends of the rake can be the same. Instructions call for an electromagnetic between the sleepers for uncoupling. It is also compatible with link systems. On my list of "to try" as the price is good.

I just reread your first post. Auto coupling is necessary, auto uncoupling is not. In which case you would not need the trip lever that hangs down on tension couplings. This can be bent in half (the weight helps keep the hook in place) and makes the narrow tension lock much more discrete.

If you want to fine-tune the distance between wagons then Kadee #17-#20 NEM (the length of each one varies by 1mm) are a good choice. You would need the Parkside Dundas blocks and the pocket from Bachmann NEM couplings.

Peco wagons with Peco couplings sell for around £2.50-£9.00 each in good condition or unmade kits (eBay UK), so spending £1.00-£1.50 for narrow tension lock couplings is not unreasonable on a model in good condition or one of the rare ones. If you want them as Peco sold them then the price for new replacement Peco couplings is not unreasonable either. Personally I'd keep them as they are and upgrade the unrepairable ones with new Peco couplings. As well as keeping an eye on the auction listings for a job-lot.

Disclaimer here. I've no connection with any suppliers of coupling systems, but I've tried quite a few different ones over the years. Dinghams excepted.

Nigel



____________________
©Nigel C. Phillips
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2015 01:18 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 9th post
16A
Deceased Member


Joined: Tue Sep 2nd, 2014
Location: Nottingham, United Kingdom
Posts: 186
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

BCDR wrote: DG's require around 9 folds and a bit of soldering for the steel pin. I wouldn't have the patience for 10, let alone a 100, even with the jig!
You make it sound like a delicate brain operation Nigel, it isn't...

DG's actually require 3 folds on the main plate (dropper, and 2 pivot points) easily achieved with blunt nosed pliers, and one on the delay latch = 4...

No need for any soldering either. Make the loop from 30amp fuse wire (yes it will take the strain and respond to a magnet), but a small modification is needed, as per this diagram.....


This mod requires no soldering and will not pull out of coupling as suggested may happen in DG instructions.

The OP wanted couplings in bulk and these give him 16 for about a fiver, albeit with a miniscule amount of effort (I'm over 70 and these present no challenge whatsoever even with failing eyesight and not so nimble fingers).... If I can etc, etc., and I can put one together in about three minutes.....



____________________
Mike

Praise is an excellent fillip for waning ambition.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2015 06:02 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 10th post
BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3172
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Mike,

Five bends on the fret (four plus a spread of the fork) four on the wire and a jig is essential. Makes nine. Plus a small filet of solder, as I belong to the belt and braces club. Fuse wire, worth trying. If I can get some.

Point I was making is that if the wagons are in good condition refurbishment and new could be considered.

Nigel



____________________
©Nigel C. Phillips
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2015 09:45 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 11th post
pnwood
DON'T SHOUT my hearing is fine


Joined: Tue Sep 15th, 2009
Location: Newbury, United Kingdom
Posts: 1329
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

16A wrote: BCDR wrote: DG's require around 9 folds and a bit of soldering for the steel pin. I wouldn't have the patience for 10, let alone a 100, even with the jig!
You make it sound like a delicate brain operation Nigel, it isn't...

DG's actually require 3 folds on the main plate (dropper, and 2 pivot points) easily achieved with blunt nosed pliers, and one on the delay latch = 4...

No need for any soldering either. Make the loop from 30amp fuse wire (yes it will take the strain and respond to a magnet), but a small modification is needed, as per this diagram.....


This mod requires no soldering and will not pull out of coupling as suggested may happen in DG instructions.

The OP wanted couplings in bulk and these give him 16 for about a fiver, albeit with a miniscule amount of effort (I'm over 70 and these present no challenge whatsoever even with failing eyesight and not so nimble fingers).... If I can etc, etc., and I can put one together in about three minutes.....

That is the method I use with DG's although I use the steel wire which is supplied to make the droppers. I do not use the PB wire supplied to make the droppers at all.

I have made nearly 200 of DG's and can now make a full fret of 8 pairs up in about an hour including the chemical blackening. The trick is to make them in batches when you have a spare half hour or so when you want to do a bit of modelling work but haven't the time for a larger project.

Being used on an exhibition layout, my stock is regularly handled and gets the odd knock in transport. The DG's work brilliantly and very rarely need any adjustment.
 



____________________
Nick AKA Woody
-------
Much Murkle GWR a layout in the making
Much Murkle website
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2015 11:01 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 12th post
BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3172
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Nick,

Impressive productivity (and patience). Takes me about twice as long (add the soldering step), but I've only done a few etches, and that was when I was active in O-16.5 and OO-9 narrow gauge and was evaluating various types of OO- and N-scale loop and hook couplings that would be reasonably prototypical for industrial and passenger work. My layouts tend to be small, I don't have fleets of rolling stock to worry about, and these days it's a lot of HO, so knuckle couplers tend to be the first choice.

I think David has plenty of choices depending on whether he wants exact replacements, off-the shelf tension couplings or DIY loop and hook from etches......

Nigel






____________________
©Nigel C. Phillips
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2015 11:43 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 13th post
wahiba
Full Member


Joined: Mon Jan 14th, 2013
Location: Keighley, United Kingdom
Posts: 267
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi All

Thanks for all those leads. I will be looking into them. I have no problems in setting up a 'production line' bending the frets. I must admit i thought the etched variety were always the type needing manual input for coupling. If not I am happy to go down that route.

Now off to check them out.

Thanks again.

David



____________________
freelance model railways and tramways
http://www.picsntech.co.uk/index_modrail.html
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2015 11:57 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 14th post
wahiba
Full Member


Joined: Mon Jan 14th, 2013
Location: Keighley, United Kingdom
Posts: 267
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

DG couplings - is there a link? so far searches have not found anything. Dignham, or something like that looked interesting but they are single ended. Pity as they are only a bus trip away.

David



____________________
freelance model railways and tramways
http://www.picsntech.co.uk/index_modrail.html
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2015 12:19 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 15th post
wahiba
Full Member


Joined: Mon Jan 14th, 2013
Location: Keighley, United Kingdom
Posts: 267
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Found them - it is Wizard Models Barton upon Humber who sell them. Obviously taken them on from original manufacturer. Downloaded all details on .pdf which is very useful.

David



____________________
freelance model railways and tramways
http://www.picsntech.co.uk/index_modrail.html
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2015 02:35 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 16th post
pnwood
DON'T SHOUT my hearing is fine


Joined: Tue Sep 15th, 2009
Location: Newbury, United Kingdom
Posts: 1329
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

wahiba wrote:
Found them - it is Wizard Models Barton upon Humber who sell them. Obviously taken them on from original manufacturer. Downloaded all details on .pdf which is very useful.

David


Andrew at Wizard is very helpful if you run into any problems, but I doubt you will.

It hasn't been mentioned before but the most time consuming bit is cutting the couplings and latches from the fret. I've found that a pair of Xuron Micro Shears are the best tool for the job.



____________________
Nick AKA Woody
-------
Much Murkle GWR a layout in the making
Much Murkle website
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2015 03:06 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 17th post
wahiba
Full Member


Joined: Mon Jan 14th, 2013
Location: Keighley, United Kingdom
Posts: 267
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I never concerned myself with couplings as i was starting. It was only as I head towards a layout and am bringing together my odd collection that I realised the coupling discrepancy would be a problem. I think I will have to carry out a bit of experimentation so will be checking out couplings at model railway shows this year.

thanks for all the advice.

David



____________________
freelance model railways and tramways
http://www.picsntech.co.uk/index_modrail.html
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 13766     Current time is 03:50 pm  
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Scratchbuilding. > Couplings in bulk
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic


Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topics

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.