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| Air drying clay - Grass & Ground Cover - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club | ||||||||||
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g0ibi Full Member 
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Just got some air-drying clay, I have never used it and wonder if anybody has any tips or has used it before I open the airtight wrapper please? Thanks Ron ____________________ Proper Preparation makes for Perfect Performance!! http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=13331&forum_id=21 |
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Keith M Full Member
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I've used "Das" air drying clay before to make some 'stone' walls using a mould I picked up at a toy/train fair. It takes around 24 hours to dry out after you've made what you need, but it is still slightly flexible for a further 24 hours,- after that, it sets rigid. If you open the pack carefully without tearing it, you should be able to fold over the pack top and seal it with sellotape after you've taken out what you need, and I've been able to go back to the pack several months later and find the clay still like new. It's pretty clean to use, as it's not overly wet, and takes paint with no problems, although I've only used acrylic paints on it so far. Hope that's of some help, Keith. |
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g0ibi Full Member
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Thanks Keith, not used it before! I want to use it in the goods yard area around the tracks, I'm away for 4 days next weekend and can leave it to set while I'm away!! Thanks Ron ____________________ Proper Preparation makes for Perfect Performance!! http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=13331&forum_id=21 |
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Gary Inactive Member 
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Be careful when using as when it dries, small cracks can appear between the individual mouldings laid down. See here : http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=13081&forum_id=21&page=7#p234912 Cheers, Gary. ____________________ ...as a young lad, it was big trains for little boys, now it is little trains for big boys...! http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=12116&forum_id=21 |
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jakesdad13 Full Member 
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Hi Ron, I haven,t used my das yet but I have a book that I picked up from the Doncaster rail show and the lady that wrote it used das to cover the walls before scribing it and she rolled it between two sheets of grease proof paper until it is about 2mm thick then lays it on the surface to be covered after brushing pva on to glue it in place. I intend to use the same method to do the ground surface and between the rails to imitate concrete, she also said that rolling it between two sheets of plastic, like the envelopes used in ring binder folders works just as well. Loving the work you,ve done so far mate, keep it coming!! Cheers, Pete. ____________________ it was already on fire when I got here, honest! |
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gastwo Member 
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Hi Ron. I use Das all the time for cottage walls, stone walls, sets, etc. I did a sort of 'How I did it' a while back. This link should get you to it: http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=9197&forum_id=14 I flatten it with my fingers straight onto the work piece (brushed with PVA first. Work piece, not fingers...) Just keep pushing and kneading it over the card until you have the thickness you want. I've found it will take all kinds of medium - acrylic, water, oil, enamel - I usually give it a quick brush over with matt varnish (Wilko's in my case) to seal the surface. This shot of work-in-progress on the 'Teifi Gorge' illustrates some of the Das uses:  Hope this helps Shaun. |
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Keith M Full Member
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When I made 'stone wall' sections, I used "Uhu" glue to fix onto a hardboard backing, then 'grouted' the sections together using Wickes coving adhesive (other brands are available!). This avoided any cracking between adjoining sections and blended the wall together. Keith. |
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g0ibi Full Member
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Thanks both, a bit too warm in the shed today to try it!! Cheers Ron ____________________ Proper Preparation makes for Perfect Performance!! http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=13331&forum_id=21 |
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Petermac Moderator 
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Many of the buildings on the late, great Dave Shakespeare's "Tetley Mills" layout were MDF coated with DAS, then scribed. Time consuming ? Yes, but a truly fantasic finished product - IMHO far better than can be acieved with embossed card (plastic or normal) because the surface looks just like stone. Not too sure it's quite so good for a brick scribed finish but for stone, unbeatable. ...............  ____________________ 'Petermac |
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Gwiwer The Mermaid Inspector 
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Absolutely Petermac. That's called "modelling" and Dave was a Grand Master of the Art. I've used air-dry clay a couple of times with decent results. If you remember that it can develop hairline cracks as it dries and allow for that they all should be well. It's quite heavy so all that lovely stonework we see on numerous layouts isn't going to be so easy to carry for an exhibition layout. ____________________ Rick Layouts here and here |
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g0ibi Full Member
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Thanks, shall not be making any buildings, just the odd wall and some ground use around the goods yard I think! Thanks Ron ____________________ Proper Preparation makes for Perfect Performance!! http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=13331&forum_id=21 |
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gastwo Member
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One point Ron, do make sure you have put adhesive between the clay and the work-piece, otherwise it could lift - neat PVA I found as good as anything. If there is a 'Works' outlet near you, they very often do a cheap deal on DAS (£4 a slab last time I was in) Shaun. |
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g0ibi Full Member
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Thanks Shaun, worth knowing! Cheers Ron ____________________ Proper Preparation makes for Perfect Performance!! http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=13331&forum_id=21 |
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Chubber Casseroled Badger 
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I have seen the white stuff stuck to a cottage armature and then 'textured' by having coarse sand paper pressed against it before it dried. A very pleasing effect akin to using watercolour paper, but of course you can go round curves etc.
____________________ 'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil...' Aesop's Fables "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king |
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Lightray Full Member 
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Hi there - not sure if it is too late to join this discussion but I have been wondering about trying out some modelling clay. I often see many refer to DAS which is a bit more expensive than some others sold for educational purposes. Does anyone know if some other ordinary air dry modelling clays are just as good as DAS? Would DAS be formulated somehow differently? Most comments from users of the other educational clays say that the stuff can be re-softened and remodeled with water after drying. Is that the case for DAS too? Appreciate any advice on this - but will definitely check out the Works to see if they have any at present. Thanks. |
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