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Scalescenes Corner Shop/Pub - Scalescenes Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2015 09:04 am
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John Dew
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I suspect many members have already built this kit.........but for those who havent......  this thread will describe how I am using the kit to build a pub for my Granby layout.

All John Wiffen's kits are ingenious.....this one  is no exception. It is primarily designed to add on to the end panel of a row of his terraced houses. In addition the kit includes a number of alternative shop fronts (Butcher, Laundrette, Chippy etc) which can be substituted for house fronts thus creating a row of shops

Component assembly is standard Scalescenes...........from time to time I have added words of advice........based ......believe me ......on bitter experience:oops::oops::oops:



From the left :

Base layer or template glued to thick (2mm) card........sometimes you can take chances with John's recommended thicknesses......dont mess about with Base Layers.......if he says 2mm .......2mm it is

Top Centre

Base Layer with apertures cut out...........change the blades frequently.......lots of shallow cuts rather than attempting one deep slash!

Bottom Centre

Cover Layer before cutting out apertures

Top Right

Cover Layer glued to Base Layer





This is a completed back panel. Aperture overhangs wrapped and glued. Windows  and door fitted.
The window sills are finicky but worth the trouble......a door step gets added after the panel is in place

The camera angle shows the white cut line at the top of each window.......it doesnt show at normal viewing angles so I didnt bother painting it out .





Completed Panels for the shop front.........these are basic panels that are used for all the shops


The next shot shows my first variation from the standard design




The back panel I showed earlier   (top left) is also designed as side panel to be placed next to the shop front panel with door way.....top right.

I didnt care for the contrast between the un-linteled windows on the back/side panel with the more elegant linteled windows above the shop fronts.........so I did a bit of Kit bashing using a shop front base layer with a combination of top layers from  the shop front and the back/side



Here is another shot showing how I mix and matched the top layers to in an effort to link more harmoniously with the adjacent  shop front

The next shot shows how the individual shop fronts are created




Top Left             Shop front base layer mounted on to film

Middle                 Sub Layer

Bottom              Shop Front Top Layer .......wrap and glue


The centre shots show these the components assembled together with its associated sub components:

Shop Sign Base*      Window Sill       Plinth

* For some reason, unlike the butchers etc, the Pub Sheet doesnt include a a sign base but I chose to make my own .......I think it looks better

and finally, on the right a completed shop (well pub actually) front panel.

Bottom right is a suggestion of how to handle the clear glass.......my memory of pubs in Liverpool was a sort of frosted glass in the lower half etched with signs like "Walkers Warrington Ale"........"Saloon Bar" etc but maybe net curtains will work?

Will discuss the name of the pub next post :lol:




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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2015 07:26 pm
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Bob K
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Thanks for sharing this John. I have yet to tackle one of these kits and I am keen to see how all the sub assemblies fit together.

Bob

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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2015 09:59 pm
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col.stephens
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Looks good John. :thumbs

Terry

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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2015 10:28 pm
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John Dew
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Novice wrote: Thanks for sharing this John. I have yet to tackle one of these kits and I am keen to see how all the sub assemblies fit together.

Bob

Hi Bob

Good to hear from you.......glad this may be of some use to you......I am attempting to write it fairly briskly so if you need any further information or photos do ask.

KInd Regards



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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2015 10:29 pm
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John Dew
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col.stephens wrote: Looks good John. :thumbs

Terry

Thanks Terry

Long way to go.......I will be more than satisfied if I get an accolade like that from you at the end:lol:

Kind Regards



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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2015 12:55 am
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sparky
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Following this one John.  Good work. keep it coming.  :thumbs



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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2015 01:36 pm
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Marty
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Following along too. Thanks for the effort John.

cheers

Marty



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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2015 01:55 pm
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Chinahand
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A very good tutorial John for those that have not tried the Scalescenes kit before.

One modification I do to the N Scale kits is to add a third, middle layer, of thin card with oversize window cut-outs so that the window glazing sits into a recess and does not therefore cause the inner layer to 'bulge' over the glazing. Also, this way the glazing is trapped into position in the recess and cannot slip. Not sure if this is necessary with 00 but it certainly helps the N Scale kits to go together better.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2015 11:05 pm
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John Dew
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Thanks Reg and Marty........glad you like it


Chinahand wrote: A very good tutorial John for those that have not tried the Scalescenes kit before.

One modification I do to the N Scale kits is to add a third, middle layer, of thin card with oversize window cut-outs so that the window glazing sits into a recess and does not therefore cause the inner layer to 'bulge' over the glazing. Also, this way the glazing is trapped into position in the recess and cannot slip. Not sure if this is necessary with 00 but it certainly helps the N Scale kits to go together better.

Thanks Trevor.......its not so much a tutorial as "how to avoid the mistakes I have made":lol:

I am never sure how much detail to go in for because some of it is very basic for guys like you and Terry but I guess if it helps anyone who is contemplating starting a Scalescenes kit it is worth it.

Thats a very good tip about the third middle wall.........I wish I had known about it when I did the warehouse and station.......I fitted the optional Brassmasters Window Etchings and the bulge you refer to was quite an issue.......

Kind Regards



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 Posted: Sun Feb 15th, 2015 09:13 pm
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mattc6911
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John I can asure you ,from a complete novice when it comes to these kits, the more detail the better! I know some of the guys have much more experience , but they probably just speed read over what they already know. For the likes of me , just thinking of dipping my toe in, these mini tutorials are a godsend and the little snippets like the one from Chinahand also help those with years of build experiance ! so please please keep on going :doublethumb


Cheers


Matt

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 Posted: Mon Feb 16th, 2015 12:12 am
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John Dew
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Thanks Matt......I am so glad you are finding it useful it was a similar thread by Dooferdog what was that converted me from plastic to card.......mind you his modelling was (and remains) far better :roll:

Cheers



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 Posted: Mon Feb 16th, 2015 12:30 am
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mattc6911
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You do yourself down Sir ! I just hope I even come close to your results

Cheers


Matt

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 Posted: Mon Feb 16th, 2015 12:56 am
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paul_l
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Hi John

Looking very good as normal John.
I have to admit I have trouble keeping my blade verticle on the 2mm card cuts, things are improving, I now tend to stand when cutting 2mm card, use a new blade, and stand over the blade (you should see both sides of the blade) and as you say lots of light cuts. I've also started to use a Jakar 7322 60cm rule, its designed for use with their mount cutter which has a 2.5mm verticle face to act as a guide for the mount cutter, but also helps me keep my blade vertical.

I have also used shop fronts from the Low Relief High street kits as weel, as one of these has a narrower shop, with a additional door for the flats above. They will work with the 2 storey and 3 storey terraced houses.

Below is a combination of Low relief High Street kit with a Scratch built end wall, and rear forming the tennement, the corner shop kit, but adjusted to fit the end of the tennement, and the small terraced house kit, with shop fronts from small corner shop kit. I also used the front of the building on the rear, as I didnt have space for the rear extensions.



Also I trimmed back the internal middle wall, glue two base layers / cover layers side by side, and covered the join with a piece of spagettii. This gave me a terraced house without a fire break wall between each house.

John's Kits are so adjustable.

Paul



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 Posted: Mon Feb 16th, 2015 02:16 am
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Petermac
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Spaghetti - now there's a great idea for drain pipes (fall pipes/downcomers or whatever) I hadn't thought of :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

I wonder what I could use macaroni for ...............:roll::roll::lol::lol:



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 Posted: Mon Feb 16th, 2015 02:19 am
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mattc6911
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Goes nice with cheese ! Maybe too big for storm water or sewerage pipes ;-)


Cheers


Matt

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 Posted: Tue Feb 17th, 2015 06:09 am
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John Dew
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Nice job Paul . I havent used the high street kits yet. I am looking forward to doing so when I start on the area in front of the station building........I assume the techniques are broadly the same?

I like the spaghetti solution:thumbs

Cheers



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 Posted: Wed Feb 18th, 2015 04:08 am
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paul_l
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Hi John

Yes very much in the way of the other scalscene kits, and the high street rear also are very similar in construction.

The brick and warehouse (2nd & 4th from the left) were built almost as per kit instructions - warehouse roof was changed.
1st uses the standard carcase, with modified decorative front - based on the high street front kit, with a lower level added, and the 3rd uses the High street front stories (same base layer as 1) and a scrath built extension in place of the shop front.



These will need spliting up as the roofline is too sameish, but you get the idea, the tennement used in the previous post used two low relief buildings back to back, but spaced out enough to look ok

Paul



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 Posted: Wed Feb 18th, 2015 07:07 am
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John Dew
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Hi Paul

Once again....nice models.....:thumbs  Thanks for posting them.........that kit looks ad though it has lots of possibilities......I was thinking of a General Post Office and/or a Station Hotel.............few other jobs to complete first

Regards 



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 Posted: Wed Feb 18th, 2015 09:56 am
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John Dew
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Stage 2......the end and centre walls. These create the core of the building. The kit is designed to be attached to the end wall of a row of Scalescene Terrace Houses.

This isnt the ideal shot to start with but unfortunately, yet again, I forgot to to take the key initial shot!:oops:......bear with me




On the right is a standard Terrace house end wall mounted on 1mm (medium) card

An inner end wall marked out for individual floor wall panels is mounted on 2 mm (heavy card)

A centre wall, similarly marked for individual walls is is made up of 2 x 2 mm card glued back to back

This centre wall is glued at right angles to the endwall. So you finish up with a very substantial T....... a 9mm end wall joined to an 8mm centre :roll:


It is very important that the centre wall is at exactly 90o, dead centre and that the individual floor markers all line up. To achieve this accurate cutting is essential......you do need to focus to ensure the blade cuts are at 90 o





Initially this T structure is quite vulnerable but once the individual wall panels are glued to the end and centre walls and a floor panel added the structure becomes increasingly stable.


When I built the terraced houses which use a similar technique I didnt fully comprehend  the importance of both the floor panels in forming  a rebate into which the front panels will fit


The next shot.....a close up....hopefully shows this



It is so easy to miscut these small panels by half a millimetre or so........3 floors the error accumulates quite quickly.


Its very important all the floors and walls are flush otherwise the front panels will not fit properly



This shot shows the end section added.......this section should use components from the terraced house kit. I had to change this because it would have been too deep for my layout so I used another centre wall and cut it, and one set of walls, back by 2mm so it would accept a front panel





In the instructions you are supposed to build the core floor and walls before starting on the front panels..........I think it is far better to build the front panels first .........so you can use them for dry fitting as below





I kept doing this checking throughout the build and it gave me a far clearer understanding of how the model would finish up




The two back panels glued in place





And now the front panels are fitted.

Fitting the centre doorway panel is very ingenious........see the shot below



Lots of dry fitting before I applied any glue!

John Wiffen recommends leaving the fascia until the very last when the building is mounted on the foundation board. This is sound advice because it enables you to conceal any minor gaps by adjusting the fascia position. However I got in a catch 22 situation because I had to custom build the foundation to fit in with the layout and also sort out any interior detail.......I will cover this in the next post. 


Here is a shot with the fascias fitted.......you can see that despite my best efforts the rear wall is a little under 2mm higher than it should be and the floor sags a bit :oops:.......there is an eaves layer still to apply and it may cover it but I may have to do something more drastic:roll:



I mis-spoke last post when I said fascia cover sheets were not provided......I found them, but by then I had made my own from black core mount board (very handy if you can get off cuts from a picture framer). The centre fascia is trickier and I am still working on it

Real net curtains mounted on Brass Rod! Hint of an interior.....more about that later.....Oh and there wil be a wall between track and pavement.

Not sure about the Pub name.......Great Eastern on a GWR layout!  At least the "Great Eastern" was designed by Brunel so I suppose thats ok:roll:  I think I can get away with the lettering style and colours.......but will pass quickly over "Real Ale" in 1947. Its the one downside of Scalescenes for me........the buildings are fine but the signage is invariably based in the 60s and beyond. Chippies were definitely not called Take away in the 40s and 50s

Next job ......the roof and trim for the walls........thats when all the nasties emerge 




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 Posted: Wed Feb 18th, 2015 12:31 pm
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You mare making a good job of this, John, as usual.

These Wiffenations can certainly be fiddly, I have just come to grief with the latest, the Edwardian school building. I'm trying it to see if it will make the basis for a free-lance station or cottage hospital kit-bash.  "No problems here!" thought I, as I have done one or two of these...only to come a cropper.

Above all, Rule number one should be  RFI   [ ' Read the Flippen' Instructions!']

Now I face a 90km round trip to buy another piece of card....




http://www.scalescenes.com/products/T036-School

Lots of bits to this one, three/four deep in places, not recco for the newcomer  [or the Big-headed] :oops::oops::oops::oops:

Chastened Chubber



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