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Converting the Midland 0-6-0 2F to EM - Kit Bashing - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Dec 16th, 2014 02:54 pm
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Brossard
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The first chapter of this build is complete, the tender:




The only mod. I made to the tender body was to cut off the brake handle (which was bent wire) and solder on a piece of 0.45mm NS wire to the correct shape.

The coupling is positioned hard against the back of the buffer and gives me close coupling to the extent that buffers touch and compress when being propelled.

The tender is of interesting construction, as I found when I disassembled to install the coupling.

The frames and footplate are whitemetal.  On top of that is a brass plate and the tender body proper is, to my surprise, foam.

To install the coupling I drilled an oversize hole in the brass plate and an oversize in the foam.

I then drilled and tapped (using the Kadee tap) for a Kadee delrin screw in the whitemetal frame.  The coupling was packed with plastic strip to a thickness of ~0.100".

John



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 Posted: Tue Dec 16th, 2014 03:56 pm
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shunter1
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Well at least you are making progress John,Lovely tender job.
I am having a set back day. The comet gearbox will not work with the Jinty body unless one gets a drive extender and even then its dodgy.So I guess that job is shelved until after christmas.Its to late now to order stuff from England.
Tell me those high level gearboxes are they smaller than the Comet jobs.Another mistake I had left out some of my EM track and I must confess the 00 looks less than class against it.These trials one has to endure.
Mind out with your Deeley Tank with that comet gearbox.Think drive extender.
Cheers,
Derek.

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 Posted: Tue Dec 16th, 2014 05:01 pm
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Brossard
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If you go on to the High Level site, you can download a Gearbox Profile sheet that shows the range 1:1 so you can get a good feel for the sizes.  Quick answer - yes I think HL boxes are smaller, but you'd need to do the analysis.  There's also a planning section showing gearboxes in various locos.

Confession time, I fitted the Loadhauler+ to my Jinty driving the trailing axle and found that I had to perform surgery to get everything to fit.  I even had to remove some of the backhead :roll:.  Fortunately, this is something that can't be seen. 

I bought a couple of drive extenders (D2 to be exact) to go with the Loadhauler Compact+.  The D2 has a final drive width of 8.7mm which will just between the hornblocks on a sprung chassis in EM.  I'll try this out my saddle tank.

Are you trying to drive the trailing or center axle?  Maybe the center axle will work better, but, then, compensation becomes a problem.  Have you seen the Comet Download on building chassis'?  The Jinty is featured and shown with center axle driven.

The chassis instruction sheet is a bit sparse.

How about springing?  Comet have this as an option and it looks simple enough using their bearings and springs?  I may just try it at some point, I will say that CSB is hard work.

Now you know how I feel.  :mrgreen:

Not a good idea to start having second thoughts about 00. :cool:



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 Posted: Tue Dec 16th, 2014 06:07 pm
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shunter1
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:)Thanks John for the info,I might try a Markits single stage gearbox  it seems smaller although the etchlines on Markit boxes would try the patience of a saint.One is just as likely to bend the whole issue out of shape as get a square box.

Anyway something to play with until I get a decent high level order in.Also I have a smaller Mashima motor that may give some leeway.

Doubts about 00 John,I have always had them.However I am going to be pragmatic.With this build some RTR will cut down the sheer time scale.I do not fancy trying to rebuild a Bachman 2-4-2 Lanky tank loco at the moment.It could be just a mid winter mood :roll:.

Cheers,

Derek.

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 Posted: Tue Dec 16th, 2014 07:06 pm
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Brossard
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I've done single stage GBs before Derek, but, with the marvellous multi stage products from High Level, I doubt I'd go back.  They're OK for 40:1 but I've had trouble setting the backlash on 60:1 because the gears are so fine.

I didn't realise just how much time and effort it takes to convert to EM (shudder to think what it takes to go P4) so 00 is certainly an option since it lets you focus on things besides rolling stock, and for many, track. 

As for the Lanky tank, I have the Cotswold kit to build at some point.  I'll use Bill Bedford's lovely chassis kit though.

John



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 Posted: Wed Dec 17th, 2014 02:02 pm
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shunter1
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Hi John,A Markits single stage 50-1 gearbox and say a Mashima 1400 series motor would fit driving the center axle without demolishing chunks of the Jinty bodywork.
Cheers,
Derek.

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 Posted: Wed Dec 17th, 2014 02:18 pm
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Brossard
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Glad that's sorted, Derek.  Hope to see the results soon.

John

 



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 Posted: Fri Sep 30th, 2016 12:11 am
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Brossard
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When I left this project I had done the tender chassis in EM.  Trouble is, it was riding about 1mm too high.


Now that I've decided to go back to 00, I revisited the tender.


As I reviewed the problem, it occurred to me that a lot of surgery would be required between the frames to lower the body.


I had one of those blinding moments when I realized that my Brassmasters 3F Easi Chas kit had a fret for MR frames.  A couple of minutes to compare the etch to the 00Works frames settled it.  While the original frames are accurate and overall not too bad, they do lack rivet detail.


I decided to assemble the etch and here is the result so far:



I still have axleboxes to add to the frames.


John



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 Posted: Sat Oct 1st, 2016 01:56 am
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Brossard
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I spent the day working on this and other projects.  I got the axleboxes on and a coupling hook.







The axleboxes were fixed with CA (Zap a Gap green).  I soldered these on the Jubilee tender and it was quite a trial.  You can't get them on right first time and the CA gives a few seconds of adjustment.  I do like lost wax cast brass.




John



BTW how do I edit the thread title - it has become redundant.



 



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 Posted: Sat Oct 1st, 2016 05:05 pm
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What do you want it to be John?.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 1st, 2016 05:53 pm
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Brossard
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How about:


 


"Upgrading the Midland 0-6-0 2F"


 


I should have thought that the OP could do this.


 


What's with the center justify anyway, it bugs my brain.


 


John



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