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Joining Wills Sheets - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Jul 19th, 2014 05:33 am
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Sol
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OK, so I have a lot of Wills SSMP 200 Coarse stone sheets & wish to join them together to make a looong wall.

Even though with carefull filing removing the moulding bits, it is almost impossible to get them joined without the vertical join being visible. The horizontal join line is OK though.

So my question is for you modellers using plastic, how do you camouflage the vertical join ?

 I will have 4 such joins on my wall.





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 Posted: Sat Jul 19th, 2014 05:57 am
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Gary
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I'm sure Allan Downes could answer this... You could possibly leave a small gap and use a filler to infil the area. Whilst it is still soft, scribe in some profile/mortar lines.

Personally, I use the larger Slaters sheets (purchased from the UK) glued to a backing support. The greater lengths between the sheets do make the joins less noticable.

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 19th, 2014 06:23 am
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Sol
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The problem Gary getting two sheets, the postage costs more than the item.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 19th, 2014 06:37 am
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Brossard
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Wills sheets have excellent detail but are not great if you have a large area.  I also don't like that they are thick and difficult to cut (score the back and snap seems to work well).  I've tried joining these in the past with similar results to Sol.  You could try filling (Tamiya filler dries hard) some of the mismatched gaps and rescribing to disguise the join.  Some weathering and moss can be used to further disguise it.

I agree with Gary that Slater's sheets are somewhat better, although the detail isn't as good.  They are only 0.020" thick as well making them very easy to work with, unlike Wills.  When I use Slater's sheets, I usually back them with 0.040" Evergreen sheet.  SE Finecast do similar products with some different patterns, like arches.

http://www.sefinecast.co.uk/Building%20Materials/Building%20Materials.htm

Sol, perhaps there are modelling retailers down there that sell Slater's.   There are a couple here.

John

 

 



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 Posted: Sat Jul 19th, 2014 06:53 am
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Sol
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I have found an Aussie dealer selling Slaters.
If I can find the Faller sheets locally , that may do.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 19th, 2014 06:57 am
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Brossard
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Great news Sol!  Faller sheets, these are embossed card?  I had some once but could never find a reliable supply.

John

 



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 Posted: Sat Jul 19th, 2014 07:08 am
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Sol
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Yes, slightly embossed
http://www.eurorailhobbies.com/erh_detail.asp?mn=8&ca=64&sc=HO&stock=F-170604

and I have found a local Aussie supply of the same sheet



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 Posted: Sat Jul 19th, 2014 07:11 am
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Brossard
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Very nice looking.  My preference is plastic these days though.

John



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 Posted: Sat Jul 19th, 2014 01:00 pm
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Gary
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You're right about postage Sol. You better purchases a loco and/or some wagons to make it worth while... :mutley

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Sun Jul 20th, 2014 02:04 pm
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Petermac
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Maybe you could fund the purchase by selling surplus buffers .......................:roll::lol::lol:

The Faller sheets are excellent but, coming pre-coloured, your choices are a bit limited. :roll:



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 Posted: Sun Jul 20th, 2014 02:41 pm
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jimmy styles
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ok i hope this helps, i build nearly all of my buildings out of wills plastic card and the way in which i join the sheets is as follows.....
i interlock them, basically cut tabs 1cm high so that the two sheets fit snugly together with tabs on each side interlocking. 
i have posted a picture below should show what i'm going on about. 
once you add a little modelling filler and paint the join is invisable. 

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 Posted: Tue Jul 22nd, 2014 01:27 pm
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mojo1
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I seem to remember Allan Downes using a soldering iron to rub over the joins in coarse stone sheets to blend them in. However, can't recall where I saw him do this.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 22nd, 2014 04:32 pm
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vulcanbomber
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I used soldering iron method to build this


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 Posted: Thu Jul 24th, 2014 06:36 pm
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Late to this one, but where I have to join stone texture sheets to make a long strip, I line them up with a slight end-to-end overlap and cut through both layers on a random basis down through and around the larger stones before gluing them in position thus avoiding an obvious joint line.

Could the same not be done with the plastic sheets, but using a piercing saw, perhaps tacking them to some card with double sided stick tape to assist in retaining the alignment a sort of 'posh' version of Jimmy's method above?

The 'sawdust' could be saved to melt into any voids with mekpak or similar....

Jus' finkin'

Doug

[Nice viaduct, V'B]



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 Posted: Fri Jul 25th, 2014 01:14 am
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Sol
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Cutting paper sheets would be a doddle Doug, compared to cutting through thick plastic around individual stones.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 25th, 2014 12:50 pm
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Chubber
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Sol wrote: Cutting paper sheets would be a doddle Doug, compared to cutting through thick plastic around individual stones.

Sol,

I'm talking about taking a random path down through the larger stones using one of these.....


http://www.amazon.co.uk/MKCLOCKS-Jewellers-German-adjustable-Piercing/dp/B0026W3JJE


Blades are available down to hair-thickness, deeper throat models are available, too.

Hold the sheet edge overlaps together [double sided sticky tape] on one of these....

http://www.amazon.co.uk/NIQUA-Fretsaw-board-clamp-170/dp/B00BS9OXBE/ref=sr_1_4?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1406278105&sr=1-4&keywords=fretsaw+clamp

You'd also have a superb tool for all sorts of fine cutting, straight and curved and as they are made primarily for cutting brass and steel they would make short work of plastic, I'm sure.


Doug



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 Posted: Wed Jul 30th, 2014 11:03 pm
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mattc6911
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Not sure about hiding the join Sol but how about turning the joins into a feature ?  I've seen long high walls with a recess cut in at regular intervals with square cast iron drain pipes running down to take away excess rainwater from the top. Depends where the wall is for of course
Cheers.  Matt

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 Posted: Wed Jul 30th, 2014 11:06 pm
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mattc6911
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That would work on a retaining wall between two levels of course , but would look a bit odd on a garden wall :roll:

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