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00 Gauge - Pig Hill Yard - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Mar 30th, 2014 01:46 am
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emmess
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2- and 4- year old hands are not good with N-Gauge models, and I started to realise that if Tedderton was to survive, those hands would need to have something a little larger to poke. So I've started this week on building a small 00 Gauge layout for the boys' Christmas present

The thinking is four-fold: 

1. It will give them something of their own to "play" with under supervision;

2. It will involve Big Sister who is 8 and is interested in building, painting, sticking;

3. Teach me skills which I can use on my main N-Gauge layout (Tedderton), and;

4. Be small enough for me to make good progress and not get put off by a larger project.

So, here is the track plan:







It is 170cm from end to end. It's a simple three-siding Inglenook design for shunting, with a little kick-back to place a small shed. The three sidings and headshunt are proportioned as suggested by the Inglenook puzzle.

In the spirit of aim number 2 above, Big Sister chose the name.

I've started baseboard construction (using plywood throughout for the first time).

Comments welcome - will this work!?



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Mike
Pig Hill Yard - a small Inglenook shunting layout for my boys, in 00.
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 Posted: Sun Mar 30th, 2014 01:51 am
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Spurno
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Ideal for youngsters Michael and great that they can all take part.



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 Posted: Sun Mar 30th, 2014 02:13 am
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pnwood
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The inglenook itself is sound but I can't see the point (no pun intended) in having a kick back siding as it can't be used if anything else is standing on the other siding. Without a run round any wagons shunted to and from the kick back will be at the wrong end of the loco. If it is just for a loco shed then the siding feeding the kick back will have to be kept clear to run a loco in and out.

If you want the extra siding providing it is for a loco shed, my suggestion would be to have the kick back before the first point from the left and not off one of the sidings.



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 Posted: Sun Mar 30th, 2014 04:31 pm
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emmess
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Thanks Nick, I did think about that siding, and my thoughts were along these lines: I want a loco shed because I like the new Scalescenes Diesel shed. I like the look of a kickback. I wanted it towards the middle of the board so I have space for the single track to go over a river. And I thought it may add a bit to the puzzle element to have to clear the top siding to get the loco back to the shed at the end. I accept that it is not prototypical, but I think that having it where it is males it right for me.

Will I regret this though? Now is the time to change it, as I haven't even bought the track yet!



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Mike
Pig Hill Yard - a small Inglenook shunting layout for my boys, in 00.
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 Posted: Sun Mar 30th, 2014 05:29 pm
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emmess
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Here it is without the kickback. It still meets all my requirements apart from not looking as good aesthetically. (I really do think kickback look great!) What do you think?




Mike.



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 Posted: Sun Mar 30th, 2014 06:33 pm
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Marty
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A better place for the shed in my opinion. The lads will get a lot of joy rolling out of the shed and then backing up onto stock in the sidings... and you still get room for a bridge?

Marty



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 Posted: Sun Mar 30th, 2014 11:24 pm
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pnwood
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Marty wrote:
A better place for the shed in my opinion. The lads will get a lot of joy rolling out of the shed and then backing up onto stock in the sidings... and you still get room for a bridge?

Marty


Agreed, much better :thumbs



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 Posted: Fri Apr 4th, 2014 01:21 am
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emmess
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I've been busy this week - we now have a baseboard for Pighill. Carpentry is definitely not a skill I possess, but I'm quite pleased with this one made from ply cut up to my template by the local timber merchant. It's wonky in places underneath, but the top is sturdy, level, and smooth, so I'm chuffed with it!




And the final plan for Pighill. No kick back, and a slight (3 degrees) curve in the sidings which I think adds a bit of interest as well as getting the sidings over towards the back a little bit.


 

Picture shows the sidings going right to the back scene. I won't go all this way with the actual track - just far enough to get the longest train of 5 or 3 wagons onto the siding whilst not being long enough for 6 or 4 as per the Inglenook rules. (I have a handy Excel spread sheet that tells you the min and max size of each siding and headshunt based on the lengths of the 8 wagons you enter).

Need to put the base of the bridge and embankment in place now then give the whole thing a coat of primer and paint.



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 Posted: Tue Apr 8th, 2014 12:51 am
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emmess
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Time goes by quickly, doesn't it!? I hope that I can actually get this done in time to give to the boys for Christmas!

A quick update. Progress has been slow this week.

I have put in the base of the bridge. This took ages. As I said before, wood and I don't get on, so it took a long time to get the shape right and the height right. But it's seamless from the main baseboard across the valley and onto the embankment at the end.



Rightly or wrongly (I am sure you'll correct me if the latter), I am going to put the bridge abutments and the bridge itself on before I lay the track. I want to get the landscape formed before laying the track itself, and I want to form the slope around the abutments so they appear embedded within them. This seems like it would be a more sensible way round, and it also means I can put off spending more money for a few weeks!

Anyway, here is my first effort, part complete. Abutments are from Scalescenes, and the plate girders are a Wills kit with Plastruct H beams underneath the deck. This is the first time I've tried to paint anything with rust, and I erred on the 'less is more' approach when dry brushing. It's not perfect, but I am happy with the result.



Next, I will varnish the baseboard and then form the valley and embankment before laying the track.

As for the track, it will be Peco code 75. Do I need to add a cork base? I think if I don't then the ballast track bed will seem too flat, but I think opinion is split on this...?

Till the next update...

Mike.



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 Posted: Tue Apr 8th, 2014 05:06 pm
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Gary
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Hi Mike,

Generaaly you'll find that most branchline railway yards or BLTs won't necessarily have a shoulder of ballast under the track. Perhaps the area left of the bridge may have a shouldered ballast profile, but the yard/station area is generally flat, using loco ash and clinker as the form of ballast. You would normally just see the tops of the sleepers and the rails above the ballast level. 

I would recommend covering the board with cork the full width of the station/yard area. The section of track left of the bridge, I would only use a strip of cork, no wider than the sleepers, to allow for the shouldered effect.



Cheers, Gary.

ps, great looking bridge ! :thumbs





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 Posted: Tue Apr 8th, 2014 05:41 pm
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Bob K
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I like the bridge with a nice balance of weathering. Great choice of colour too.

Bob

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 Posted: Wed Apr 9th, 2014 11:45 am
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emmess
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Thanks Gary, Bob. I will use that recommendation for the ballast Gary, thank you. I'm always impressed by the level of guidance that's given on this forum. As a complete novice, it's always more than welcome.

Mike.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 9th, 2014 01:16 pm
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toto
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Hi Mike,

The bridge looks great. Nice work.

Cheers. Toto

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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2014 03:54 am
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emmess
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Toto - thanks... I am pleased with how it has come out.

Been busy tonight. The boys' big sister helped lay the cork on the baseboard - gladly holding things and spreading PVA all over. She is excited seeing progress and is enjoying the experience.

Once she went to bed, I set to with the new Scalescenes Diesel Shed kit. It's taken four hours to get the two long walls complete. They look fabulous, and they are really sturdy. This is the first time I've made a Scalescenes kit in 00, and I have to say I found it a much more pleasant experience, despite the extra cutting.

A good half hour was spent cutting out these bad boys:




These combs sit under a layer of cladding to make it look corrugated. It's an excellent (if subtle) effect, but it was bloomin hard work cutting out those combs. You can see the effect at the top right of the next photo.

Anyway - here's a quick look at the walls:




Work on Pig Hill will stop for a week now as we're out and about at the weekend and I am away with work next week.

Till next time...



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Pig Hill Yard - a small Inglenook shunting layout for my boys, in 00.
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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2014 04:15 am
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toto
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Hi Mike,

I can just see the results of the corrugated cladding there and it looks convincing. Could you post another picture of it when you get a moment as I am going to be using similar to my recycling plant and possibly elsewhere as well.

I'll look forward to seeing how things progress on the above when you reconvene.

Keep up the good work

Cheers

Toto

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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2014 12:09 pm
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emmess
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toto wrote: Could you post another picture of it when you get a moment as I am going to be using similar to my recycling plant and possibly elsewhere as well.





Here you go, Toto. I think it works quite well. It's certainly subtle, but I think it's better for it.

I think one mistake I made was gluing the whole thing down first with Rocket glue and then pushing into the gaps with my fingers. By the time I got to the far end, the glue was solid and there wasn't enough 'give' for it to go into the gaps. I think I would have been better gluing a few at a time and working along that way. I will try this approach when I get onto the shed ends.



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Pig Hill Yard - a small Inglenook shunting layout for my boys, in 00.
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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2014 02:08 pm
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toto
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Hi Mike,

Many thanks. It is good, as you say subtle ........ But effective. The whole build looks like a winner.

I'll keep this one in the bottom drawer as it looks great and I think that I could tackle that. Thanks for the photo.

Cheers for now

Toto

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 Posted: Mon Apr 14th, 2014 11:25 pm
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emmess
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I popped over to Haworth on Sunday with the boys to get some pictures of the track work in the KWVR's yard. I am going to try to base Pig Hill's track and ballast on this. It's very dark, very dirty, and very fine. In places the muck is above the sleepers, and greenery is starting to encroach. I don't know how I'll manage this look, but here are the pictures that will be inspiring me...






 










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Pig Hill Yard - a small Inglenook shunting layout for my boys, in 00.
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 Posted: Tue Apr 15th, 2014 01:28 am
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emmess
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I'm stuck in some anonymous hotel in some anonymous town with work tonight, so have little to do. I've therefore completed the Pig Hill control panel front using the technique I mentioned earlier this week.

It's simplicity itself - three switches to control the three Cobalt point motors, and four LEDs: one of which will be lit depending on which way the points are facing from the headshunt.

The actual track plan was exported as a high-resolution PNG file from AnyRail (PNG uses lossless compression so for diagrams like this it's much better than JPEG) and imported into Visio. The text and the drill-out holes for the LED clips and switches were then be drawn on at the exact right dimensions.

The front of the baseboard is 4mm plywood, so I plan on mounting the diagram on the front facia, with the switches self-contained, along with a panel-mount controller.  I think I'll mount the diagram directly to the layout baseboard facia with Pritt Stick and then just varnish over it. Will this work?

I've just ordered the bits from Rapid. I had a 15% discount code, so it's all possible for just over a fiver including postage. I've included a 4p diode in my order to protect the headshunt - it goes right up to the back scene without buffers, so I plan on electrically isolating it in the right-to-left direction as 2- and 4- year olds aren't known for their fine motor skills at stopping an expensive loco running into a solid wall at speed.

Notice the track plan is a bit more curved than it was. My mistake was starting baseboard construction before trackplan completion. The removal of the kick-back into the shed has meant much less space. Combined with another mistake which was not accounting for the 5cm length of buffers when calculating siding length for the Inglenook puzzle made it a bit of a squeeze to get everything onto the space I'd committed to. Sigh. Ah well - I think it looks good still, even though it's going to be far more cramped than originally planned. Lesson learnt.

Siding at top right will vanish into a Scalescenes factory/warehouse building which will continue on ultra-low-relief towards the left, and possibly down the right-hand side too.





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 Posted: Tue Apr 15th, 2014 02:06 am
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col.stephens
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Mike. I've just come across this thread - superb!  How big is the layout?  Very nice pictures of the track at Haworth.
Re sticking your trackplan to the facia with Pritt-Stick.  I don't think that it will be up to the job of holding it in place for long.  I would go for something more powerful.  Looking forward to seeing your layout develop.

Terry

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