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Gary
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Whilst I wait for modelling materials to turn up on the door step, I needed something to do. When going through my garage, I came across an old wardrobe base that I put away for some reason or another. Hmm, this would make a great shunting plank. Having a look through some boxes, I came across a few 2nd hand points and track, I have enough for a layout. This will also utilise my older Hornby rollingstock (plastic wheels) and Hornby/Lima locomotives (pre dcc).

So, the design. As with most shunting puzzles, space is the key and the sidings should only hold a certain amount of wagons. This is the plan, quite simple, but should allow some operating interest.




The points on the layout are 2nd hand Set Track, except for the curved point and 2 x 2nd radius curves, which was originally bought new for Jacks Corner. The rest will be 2nd hand flex track and a few old small curves. This will make laying quite quick. I may have to make a small extension off the cuved end, pehaps a small sector plate. Wiring will be a simple affair, dc, wired to all sidings with a insulated section at the end of the platform. I have an old transformer/controller which I pulled out of the storage. The points will be simple rod in tube method, again, quick to install.

Motive power will be an old Class 29, Class 27 and an old Triang DMU. Rollingstock will (as mentioned above) be my older plastic wheeled four wheel stock, ie, 2 x Cattle wagons, 2 x louvre vans, 3-4 open wagons and an old brake van. 

Structures on the layout will be easy. The station building is an old Hornby building (platform shelter), goods shed will be an extended Scalescenes freebie, signal box made of card and Scalescenes paper, Ratio windows, coal staithes made of balsa and a cattle dock out of card covered in Scalescenes brick paper, as with the platform.

This picture gives a better idea of the overall size of the layout and the length of the individual sidings. The DMU is as far as it can go into the platform road.



 
Well that's it for now, better pull my finger out and make a start...

Cheers, Gary.


Last edited on Mon Apr 6th, 2015 04:06 pm by Gary

Gary
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Toady I gave the base board a clean up, I had to remove the big grey greasey mark on it so that cork could be stuck down on it to progress with track laying. Once cleaned, track laying began. All up there were 12 pieces, a mix of flex and set track. As mentioned previously, the points are operated by wire in tube, and I needed a way of holding the points shut/closed as the two small set track points do not have any centre springs. This is where three old Hornby switches, (the old lever type to operate solenoids), come in handy. As these can be locked in at one end and released under spring compression at the other, they were an obvious choice (as I have 20-25 lying around).

First up was to open them, so I could reveal the inners. Ofcourse I broke the studs that hold these together, but not to worry as the whole switch will be glued shut once finished. Once opened, I could drill a hole through the switch level/handle. The copper stricker (strip with raised top) is to be removed as it isn't needed.



The switch on the left has a pilot hole drilled (above copper spring), whilst the switch on the right has a 1.3mm hole drilled through to accomdate the wire push/pull rod.

Next was to bend up the welding rod to fit the lever.



The 90* S is then fed into the hole in the lever. To centre the wire for the outlet, the 40* S bend was made, so that the wire feeds easily through the switch body, using the lower electric plug socket. This was then installed into the lever housing.

Next up is to bend the wire downwards via another S bend, so that the push/pull rod is at baseboard height. The copper stricker has been cut and can be seen here, on the lower right hand side of the lever arm. A piece of styrene has been added to this switch to stop the spring wire from coming out.



All done, now to glue the lid back on, then place onto layout.

The track was all positioned and pinned down. The points were hooked upto the levers which were screwed and glued to the front side of the baseboard.

Next up were the electrics. Each piece of track was wired in. The wires returning to two lentghs of 2mm copper wire, basically a bus wire, which is screwed to the underside of the baseboard frame. Holes were then drilled through to connect up to a controller. The platform road has an isolated section along it at the furthest end. This is simply one on/off switch connected via the + power supply. Train direction is controlled by a switch within the controller.



Point levers installed on the baseboard, The push/pull rod runs through drinking straws to the points, simple and effective ! The isolating toggle can be seen behind the levers.

Track all down, wired, and everything operates accordingly !



Well, that's it for tonight. I'm going to get stuck into building the platform face and cattle dock foundation, then maybe some ground formations...

Cheers, Gary.




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Very elegant, Gary.  :thumbs

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Would they control electric signals if you wanted those Gary?or is there too much weathering.

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Thanks for sharing the shunting plank with us Gary. It,s of particular interest to me as I have an interest in shunting.

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Hi Gary,

I can't believe the speed and ease with which you progress these things. Most people have one layout which is hard enough to keep going but by my calculations, you must have at least three.

Far too much time on your hands. :mutley

Cheers

Toto

Gary
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Max, thanks, This is something to play with when I'm between modelling Kelly Bray.

Reg, yes, the switches would still be capable of switching electrics, but also manual signals the way I have used them. Ofcourse, you would require a few crank arms etc to get to the signal. There are signs of rust on the lever and that seems to be the only 'weathering'.

Barney, thanks and keep watching. This layout is an experiment in cost and time. I'm going to continue this as a simple build thread. May even be a video coming...

Toto, yep three, but if you include the shunting puzzle utilising old Hornby Super 4 track in the garage, thats 4...!

Last night I started on the platform face, just wish glue could dry quicker...



Platform made of card and covered in Scalescenes 'aged brown brick'. Have to finish off the coping on top of the wall before capping of with edge stones. A small tarmac area will be included under the canopy, the rest of the platform being fine sand/deco granite.

Cheers, Gary.

Gary
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I have completed the platform build this morning, which included the top finished surface. I chose to include a header course of bricks on top of the retaining wall, before putting the edging slabs on.



Above. The platform with all surfaces complete. It just needed time for the PVA to go off under the fine soil, before giving it a shake off. Below is a cruel close up of the brick header course under the edging slabs. The soil has dried and the edges have been exposed to show the edging slabs.



Whilst this was drying I gave the platform shelter (seen above on the left) an under coat of grey primer. I will allow 24 hours to dry before attempting any top coats.

Next step was to decide on the landscape. I want to include a cutting and railway crossing, so it was out with the styrofoam to see what would fit. To do this and maximise the piece of styrofoam (only 500 x 350mm), I first pressed it down onto the layout firmly, so that the rails would create an indentation into the base. This gives me a better idea where to now cut the styrofoam and to what shape. The outside was first up to cut. After indenting, flip the foam over and mark a line approximately 20mm back from the outside rail. This is the cut line. Once cut, I moved to the inside and done the same process, mark and cut. As can be seen below, I have drawn on gradient lines to assist in fine tuning (carving) the landscape.



This was all filed down to shape using a wire brush and a hacksaw blade. The next area to be carved out is behind the platform area. The pic below shows the carved styrofoam in place and the placement of the platform itself. The 3mm card is a gauge, set between the rolling stock/locos to give adequate clearance, whilst glueing platform in place.

.

To make the filling in between the point rodding simple, I cut up two old 6mm cork floor tiles. These were glued into place, directly onto the baseboard using a cheap version of 'liquid nails'.

The only thing left to do now is to tidy up all the edges. As the baseboard edge is now various heights, the whole outside edge was treated with 3mm MDF. Pieces upto 65mm in height were placed around the edge and a marker pen was used to trace the final land formations on the inside. I made sure I gave an extra 3-4mm to protect any landscape detail. The MDF was cut, glued and nailed to the baseboard edge. Lucky that the board was recessed on the frame itself, which helps with the finished item.



Completed land formation. Cork is also used to build up the roadway.



Another view of the carved styrofoam landform base. The 6mm cork works a treat as it brings the road surface up to rail height. Perfect for a crossing !

Anyway that's it for tonight and it's back to work tomorrow. :roll: Hopefully tomorrow afternoon I can get on with the plastering and either painting the platform shelter or building the goods shed and cattle dock..., hmmm, decisions, decisions ??

Cheers, Gary.


 

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Rome wasn't built in a day.  It's a pity that you weren't site foreman on that job Gary! :lol:

Nice work so far.  Can you throw some light on the platform shelter please?

Terry

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Gary wrote: Last night I started on the platform face, just wish glue could dry quicker...

 

Super glue does on your fingers. I know what you mean though, I have some pva on the scenery thats still a bit sticky after a week, although it was put down fairly thickly.

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Hi Terry,

The platform shelter I am using is an old Hornby type. I purchased two of these (without platform) some time ago for a few dollars. Once painted up, it should look ok and fit into the scene quite nicely. It will get its first coat of colour tonight. To make painting easy, the roof section/valance comes off.



This afternoon, the layout recieved its first layer of plaster. This is only a base covering. I have used those cheap disposable washing up cloths (Chux ?), dipped into a plaster/water/PVA solution and laid over the styrofoam formation, down to the track, over the cork, and also behind the platform. Adding the PVA to the plaster mix will hopefully strengthen the base and make it less brittle.
Tomorrow, it will recieve the second coat, after allowing a good 24 hours for the first layer to set hard. This second coat will hide all those niggling little layers caused by the cloth underneath and also have more texture put into it to create some better looking ground scenics.



Cheers, Gary.


 

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Hi Gary,

Coming on Leaps and bounds. Must be one of the fastest builds I've seen yet. You make it look so easy.

Cheers

Toto

Last edited on Tue Jan 28th, 2014 03:33 pm by

Alan-2
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Hey Gary that's great mate.

And you have added some very simple idea's that are very useful. Pictures and explanation's are superb.
ie: The points levers etc

BTW:
If you work a day job as you do,
and are progressing with the "Shunting Plank" as you are,
Just think what you can achieve when you retire.

Gary
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I have completed the second plaster coat, which hides most of the cloth ridges. I mainly wanted to hide the ridges where the road and structures will stand (signal box/ground frame and cattle dock. A light sanding of the road surface will be necessary after this coat has dried thoroughly (tomorrow).



Last night I painted up the platform shelter. I didn't want to go down the traditional route of brown/buff or green/buff as with most models. This is a 'somewhere model', so particular railway colours are not importanat. I took a look into my paint box and made a decision. Pale green, stone trim and a pale cream interior...

What do you think ??



That's it for now.

Cheers, Gary.


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Looks good Gary. When you get bit between your teeth you really get motoring. All the shelter needs now is a snogging couple and it will be great.

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Gary, you really need to stop dragging your heels and get on with this model! :lol:

Great stuff!

Terry

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An inspirational "how I dun it" Gary.

Well written and illustrated, keep it coming.

Cheers

Marty

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Inventing liveries is seldom successful but you seem to have hit on a subtle winner there, watching with admiring interest!

Doug

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Thankyou all !

Mick - I may just have to purchase the 'snogging couple' ! I do have a few little people around somewhere, but not snogging..

Terry - One step at a time... got to walk before you can run !

Marty - I'll keep it coming, no worries. When I get to the scenics (greening) side of it, I wish to provide as much info as posible, especially with which materials I use.

Doug - I did think about a light shade of blue originally, but I didn't want to have to mix colours down, as the blue I have would have needed tinting with white. I think the green will blend in quite nicely with the landscape. Similar colours to this were used on the railways in New South Wales and that where I got my inspiration from. The signal box/ground frame will be painted up quite similar. Might have to knock that up tonight..

So, where am I up to...

Last night I built up a coal staithe. Quite a simple build, which only 2.5mm balsa wood was used. The walls were scribed at scale 9" intervals to form the planking. The total length of the coal staithe is 24' and the length of the side walls are 8'.

Below, inside without bays.



9" wide strips of balsa were cut to form the verticle posts and glued into the corners, on each side of the end walls and at 8' intervals along the back (rail side) wall.



The bays were cut and scribed as the back and side walls. Each length had the vertical posts glued in place, then attached at the 8' intervals.



Prior to painting, the horizontal timbers will be treated with a knife to create a warn in/weathered look, especially along the top edges. Painting will be done tonight, which will just be a wash/staining or two of weathered black. Once the scenery is near complete this will be installed and coal added to the bays.

Today after work, I sanded the road reasonably flat and also some areas where structures will stand. A splash of thinned down  acryllics was painted over the bare plaster. I chose 'raw umber' and 'burnt sienna' for the areas to be covered in flocks and static grass. For the road, I went for a thin wash of black to give a grey base. I could have stayed with the browns, but I haven't decided on what colour the road will be yet.



The basebaord where the coal staithes and goods shed will stand was given a coat of thinned black as well. I would like to start on the flocks, grasses, bushes etc over the coming weekend.

Anyway, until tomorrows update...

Cheers, Gary.
  


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Hi Gary,

A fantastic thread. I'll be watching with interest for some landscaping and ballasting tips and progress snaps.

This is a great how to for someone who is happy to start off with a smaller layout as they could follow this step by step, not to much space required and relatively inexpensive as well. It also gets you up and running quickly which may suit some without the patience to labour over a bigger build.

Looking forward to the rest.

Cheers

Toto

Gary
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After a tiresome week at work, especially after having a break for 10 days, not a lot was done on the layout itself. I did want to start on some scenery this weekend, but that wasn't to be the case. Before any scenery should be started, I have to build the certain structures to sit on the layout. The three reamining structures are the goods shed, the ground frame and the cattle dock. The cattle dock will be started today, but the goods shed is complete, as well as the ground frame.

GOODS SHED. 

The goods shed was first started with scribing card to represent the timber plankings. The shed has similarities to Scalescenes small goods store. Quite a few techniques were pinched from Mr Wiffen as well as the doors, platform and timber floor from his kit.



The arrangement of the walls. To keep it simple, I didn't bother with end wall vents/louvres. The walls have a 'hairy look', due to scribing the planks. This will be cleaned up with a light sanding.




The concrete platforms and one sliding door. The concrete sheet was pinched from Scalescenes free 'low relief warehouse/shed'.



The piers were made up as per Scalescenes 'small goods store'. The door has been dry brushed green, so that the detail underneath is visible.



The steps. These are made from individual pieces of card and covered in a strip of header course brick paper. After each step was completed, they are glued on top of each other. This was then dressed along the facing edge with a piece of stretcher bond brick paper.



The completed shed, bar gutters and down pipes. The roof is corrugated card, the same card I used on my Provendors/Goods Store build. The two doors here are from Scalescenes 'small goods shed'. This time they were glued on in the open position and were not painted. The model was given a light weathering using dry brush.



Rail side of the goods shed.



GROUND FRAME.

This was started with layering 4mm strip (styrene) over a base sheet. This is done to match the construction method/materials of the Hornby platform shelter.



The door and windows are from Tichy Train Group. The two windows with the white styrene attached started life as the window below them. A little bit of 'cut and shut'. The door has had the bottom section cut and removed to extend the length/height from HO to OO scale. Further along you will see the same was done to the top lintel of the door.



The door and windows are arranged within their respective wall sections. The side walls have HO scale 6" (OO 4") corner posts attached. The wall section on the right shows the eventual roof line drawn on.



The completed, bar painting ground frame. Again, the same corrugated card was used for the roof. The building measures (a scale) 5'3" wide by 6'3" deep and 9' high at the front, 7'6" at the rear.



The painted groung frame alongside the matching platform shelter




All four models that have been built/scratchbuilt/painted this week.




Now, I'm off to start on the cattle dock....

Cheers, Gary.











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Nice one, er - four Gary.  I like the walls of the Goods Shed especially.  :thumbs

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The goods shed steps look great Gary,so much better than the ramp that comes with the Scalescenes one.I might pinch that idea if you don't mind and retro fit to my goods shed.

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Like the four models Gary. What distance did you scribe the lines on the card for the planking? Looking forward to see the cattle dock too. Keep up the good work!

 

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Hi Alan,

Thanks for the kind words. Ofcourse you can pinch the steps idea. At first I had planned another way of constructing them, but I found this method easiest.

Oh, The header photo 'Alan's pic of the week', thankyou, Jack is happy :mrgreen: ! I only realised how early that shot is, in the build up of Jacks Corner/Continuous Loop. I also noticed that the engine shed is missing one door. The Fat Controller wouldn't have that on the Island of Sodor !! ;-);-)

Hi Barney,

The planking is spaced at a scale 9". I pretty much copied the same spacing as the Scalescenes 'small goods shed' kit. As for the cattle dock, I had thought about going down the same road as the cattle dock on Jacks Corner, but decided not to. After reading Aberdare's (Jim) Tiverton Junction & Hemyock thread, I thought I would make a cattle dock out of timber...

Here is a pic of the progress so far. Very fiddly putting these little timbers together...

The fence posts are 5' tall, and 6" square. The gates are only 3' wide and 4'10" high.



I'll elaborate the build of this in another post shortly.

Cheers, Gary.
 


 

Last edited on Mon Feb 3rd, 2014 10:20 am by Gary

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Hi Gary,

Are these timbers made out of ready cut balsa wood strip or do you have to trim these down to size yourself ?

Congratulations to both Jack and yourself on the layout of the week. A nice spur on for all the dad and son teams efforts.

Well done

Toto

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Hi Toto,

The timbers are hardwood and ready to go. They are from an American company called North Eastern Scale Lumber, although in HO scale. I just use my scale rule when selecting the timbers for size, so that they don't look far too small for the job. Pretty much a HO scale 6" x 6" is reasonably close to a OO scale 4" x 4" timber.

And yes, I do have to cut them all to length. Actually I cut them slightly overlength, group them together and then file to the same length. Very tedious...

I will say that I have cheated by using styrene as the diagonal brace on the gates. As there was no way I was going to splice a piece of timber to 0.5mm thick !

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Mon Feb 3rd, 2014 02:33 pm by Gary

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Hi Gary,

Cheers for that. I would not think that the use of styrene is cheating by any means. You can feel free to use whatever is at hand as it will presumably be getting painted / weathered anyway.
It's the end result that matters. As you say, due to the size of some of the members required, it's impractical to use some materials.

Looking good so far. Mind the hinges and the gate latches now, I'll be looking for them.:mutley

Cheers for now

Toto

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This is layout coming on a treat Gary.  At the risk of teaching you to suck eggs, as they say here, might I suggest that in order not to get the 'hairy' look, and subsequent sanding down when scribing styrene, you invest in an Olfa P cutter 450?  I think this type of knife is sometimes referred to as a laminate cutter.  This is like a craft knife but has a hooked blade which will make a 'v' section scribe.  The waste comes away in a nice clean strip with no need to clean up afterwards.  Perfect planks every time.  These cutters are widely available at shows in the UK and, as they are made in Japan, I would assume they are also available in your part of the world.



Terry

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Hi Terry,

Thanks for the info on the knife. :thumbs I would have used balsa sheet for the shed walls but the only sheet I had was atleast 4mm thick, so the card was the next best thing. I should invest in such a knife as, you already know, I like to model in styrene at the best of times and this would become very handy if I need to scribe any material.

With the goods shed, I just dragged the scapel over the card to lightly groove it, hence the furry/hairy edges. Although, it hasn't come up too bad and looks ok with a little weathering. I would have prefered styrene, but, I am using what is at hand. I want to keep most of the styrene for the Kelly Bray layout.

Eventually, I will either grow some ivy up to hide the rough corners or cover with down pipes, maybe even with a vine of some sort climbing the spout... Hmmm.

Cheers, Gary.

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Oops, sorry Gary!  I thought you were using styrene for the shed walls. :oops:

Terry

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Well, here is the next installment on the cattle dock. Previously shown was the fence sections and two gates. The other two gates were made up and all the fencing/gates were painted with a wash of Humbrol matt grey primer (No.1).

The next step was to build up the platform out of heavy card. Here is the underside with adequate bracing/support.



I decided to chamfer all round the top edge of the platform and a strip of Scalescenes brick paper, with the header course was glued over the curved edge. The stretcher bond section was glued down and under the inside edge of the box. There are some visible rough surfaces on the card top. This was caused when I trimmed down the length of the header couse, after securing in place. This is not a problem as the surface will be treated the same as the station platform.



The bare card was painted with PVA and fine soil was sieved over the top. Once this had cured, a small amount of PVA was painted around the edges under the fence line and various flocks, scenic materials glued in to represent weed growth. Whilst this was curing, the fences were positioned and glued to the top of the brickwork. A little more flock was added around the posts.

All of this was allowed to cure for some time before the gates were glued into position. A little light weathering was applied here and there and that completes the build.

The completed cattle dock, road side.



Rail side.



Hopefully tomorrow this and the other models will take place on the plank and scenics will begin. ;-)

If anybody has built a cattle dock previously, you will notice something that I overlooked.... Any guesses ??

Cheers, Gary.

ps, No hinges Toto...:oops: This is meant to be a reasonably quick build..;-);-)





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A very impressive cattle dock you've made there Gary. Well done! Thanks for sharing it with us.

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Hi Gary,

Forget about hinges, it looks great, however, I know what's missing............cattle poo and greeny stenchy urine effect. I thought as much , a great disrespect for detailing. :mutley

I am confident that you could model that as well Gary, :mutley but here is the challenge...........the flies around the poo.;-)

Joking aside, I would be delighted to be able to produce this. As with all your builds, first class. Were the fence posts just offered straight to the top of the wall or were they sank into small holes in any way for support ?
The flock makes it and I think you use. It sparingly rather than over doing it and taking the effect away. It really looks like a well worn, un-maintained surface as it should.

Cheers for sharing the pictures.

Toto

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Gary said, "If anybody has built a cattle dock previously, you will notice something that I overlooked.... Any guesses ??"

Here's my fourpenny worth:

1.  A ramp to get the animals on and off the structure.

2.  A drain.  The animals produce lots of urine.  Where's it going to go?

Do I win the prize?

Terry

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Hi Barney, Toto & Terry

Thanks for your praise Barney. :mrgreen:

Toto, In a matter of fact I do have some cow pats (poo) in my spares box ! Not real ofcouse, but the pats that come with the Ratio 'Concrete Fence Post' kit. As for the posts, they are glued directly to the top of the wall/surface. Having a cat in the house, it is a possibility to have the cat knock the fence of the platform rather than have the cat snap it off and make a bu**er of a job to repair ! Thanks for your praise as well.

Terry, your close on the first answer....! Although the ramp will be modelled into the landscape today. I'll post more photos later. As for the drain, being a relatively small cattle dock, I assumed that the rammed earth surface wood take care of any urine, so no drain. I would hate to ride in a cattle van with these beast to the markets/slaughter house, not only would they be urinating, they would be cra##ing themselves too ! :shock:

Since you are close, a cow pat is on its way to you ! :mutley

Cheers, Gary.

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Thanks Gary, looking forward to it! :lol:

I read somewhere about producing cowpats by squeezing a blob of glue onto a surface and then dusting it with ground pepper.  The bloke who described it thought it was realistic, but personally, I thought it was a load of crap! :lol::lol::lol:

Terry

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Scenics have now started on the Shunting Plank. First up, I carved a piece of styrofoam to fit around the cattle dock.



This is then glued to the baseboard with Liquid Nails and a coat of plaster and then some acryllic paint to match the rest of the baseboard. During the plastering of the ramp, I filled in the sections next to both where the Goods shed and coal staithes sit.



Whilst the plaster was setting hard, the sleepers were treated to a wash of grey/brown acryllic paint. After all this had dried, which wasn't long (29-30*C today), the whole baseboard was coated with PVA and a layer of fine soil applied. Again, this did not take long to dry.



The road way was treated to some finely sieved road base dust and some Chucks Ballast 'Filth'. The track was also ballasted after the road was done. The ballast is a combination of Woodland Scenics 'Medium Grey Blend', Chucks Ballast, fine sieved soil and a dusting of 'Filth' after the combination mix had been applied.



All the plastering, painting, sub soiling, ballasting was completed out side. Once the track had dried off, it was all cleaned up with a mini-vac. There will be some minor patching up to be done at a later date. I have just completed the first of the 'greening'. I brought the layout inside for this.

Various materials will be used for this. So far course turf, static grass, general fine flock and leaf foliage has been used. All has been applied using PVA, which can be clearly seen below...



That's it for the evening, until work commences tomorrow.

Cheers, Gary.





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Not a lot to say Gary.

Effortless with amazing results. Really fantastic and in no time at all. Truly gifted.

Keep it up.

Toto

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A brilliant build Gary.I love the ballasting,not too pristine if you know what i mean but very natural and real life.

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Toto, I wish SWMBO would say that I am really gifted...:mutley

Alan, thankyoyu. I know what you mean by 'not too pristine'. I'm going for that well worn look.

Ok, time to get back into the scenics. Hopefully a fair bit of board can be covered today.

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Sun Feb 9th, 2014 02:57 am by Gary

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It's a great build, Gary.   :thumbs

I'm wondering if the gates shouldn't open inwards?

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Thanks Max. You know you probably are right. Looking at other cattle docks the doors seem to open out, but I can see why you think they should open in..., no room between the gates and a wagon. Anyway, it's only glue !

So, today I have been busy with the scenics or I should say 'greening' the layout.

After last nights play, I carried on with the grass, weeds, tree planting and installation of cattle dock and coal staithes. First up was a strip of trackside yellow grass. I think models look better if the grasses are varied on the landscape. Lime green all round makes a good model look like a toy, not to mention that we are trying to recreate what we see in the real world.

As can be seen below, the track side and road side in some places have had a strip of Woodlands Scenics (WS) 'Wild Honey' static grass. This is done seperately to the rest of the grass which is a mix of greens, notably WS 'Light Green' and WS 'Burnt Grass' and Noch or Heki summer meadow mix ?? (lost the tag on this bag).



After this was applied and dried for atleast 20-30mins, the remaining areas of the ground was painted with PVA and a few weeds added. Weeds are a mix of Heki course turf in two or three colours. The rest is covered with a mix of the WS and Noch static grasses. The dribbled glue is where 'wheel tracks' from parking cars and tracks have rested.



A tree was selected for the layout and a hole drilled into the baseboard to secure it. A liberal amount of WS and Noch static grass was then applied and then the tree planted.  A few weeds were also scattered under the tree as well as a bush. Holding my index finger and thumb together, as if pinching,  I rubbed over the road surface to produce that worn in/tyre treaded road surface.



Another pic of the same area. There is still a bit of work to do in this area. More bushes and trees are required as well as some appropriate fencing along the track and some more details around the cattle dock. Definately a back scene is needed !



The coal staithes were also installed today and the bunkers have had coal added. The area around here is still 'wet' in this pic and there is some more detailing required.



Well, there we go ! All this had taken about 3 hours to complete to what is seen above. I guess that is one good thing about a small layout !

Over the next week a few of the other tasks mentioned will be completed. I do think that the station requires a departure signal opposite the ground frame. I guess I'll add that to the list...

Cheers, Gary.




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Opps, forgot to add the area that I had also greened up behind the platform... The last pic in the above post showed me that !

This was completed the same as all the other areas, mostly just static grass and course turf. I did add a hedge along the back of the platform edge. This is made of green poly fibre which has been soaked in PVA/water solution, teased out and sprinkled with foliage (Noch foliage) and some lighter green course turf.




A view of the platform shelter and bushes. The building still needs to be bedded in properly. I think a nice post & rail fence would look good along the back of the platform... another job to add to the list of many... ;-)



Cheers, Gary.



Last edited on Sun Feb 9th, 2014 02:37 pm by Gary

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For a shunting plank, it looks very nice Gary.

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Hi Gary,

You have done an excellent job all round. I like the road surface, very convincing. The greenery is perfect on the eye utilising subtle tones rather than harsh colours. Nice and muted.
I really find it difficult to pick out a favourite part or building but if I had to, I would say that I particularly like the cattle dock and the area in which you have placed it. It just looks natural.

You have put this together in no time at all yet it looks line a very mature layout that has evolved over a longer space of time. You really should be considering an exhibition layout as you most definitely have the talent to work to these standards.

Go for it, I'd love to see your efforts " up in lights "

Cheers

Toto

Last edited on Sat Feb 15th, 2014 02:52 am by

MaxSouthOz
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I agree with Toto, Gary.  You've got the 'feel' for scenery.  :thumbs

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I have now completed one of the line side fences. Having dropped into 3 hobby shops over the last few days, not one had the Peco Lineside Fencing kit. I did see the Ratio kit, 36 posts and a strand of wire for nearly $11.00 Au. Not a great deal of fencing for the $$, I must say.

So, out came the spares n' scratchbuilding box.

I found some HO scale 'Northeastern Scale Lumber', another words, scale wood ! These strips measure 8" x 4" in HO, close enough to 6" x 3" OO scale. These strips were cut to scale 5' lengths, with one end pointed, similar to the GWR fencing from Ratio. I then drilled four holes down the length with a 0.75mm drill bit, approximately 10-12" apart. I wasn't too worried about exact measurements. Nor was I concerned if the holes were not perfectly straight.



I then gave the timbers a wash in Humbrol Light Grey Primer (No.1). The next step took some time. I haven't any thin wire around so I stripped some thin copper wire into approx. 22" lengths. This was then test fit through the posts. Knowing all was good, one end of the fence had the post glued to the end of the wire. Adjustments were made along the length of fencing.



Being happy with the fit, I measured out some pilot holes on the plank at approx. 8' spacings and test fit, also to see if it looked right.



All good and I glued the posts into position with Zappa Gap. Every 5th post had a bead of glue run down it to secure the wire in place after some adjustment, that is allowing a little sag here and there along the length of the fence.

Painting was now completed insitu. This was the only way to do this, as all the posts had to be in the correct position. If painted on a table, the posts would have dragged the paint off the wire whilst trying to set in position on the plank. Care was taken to paint the wire, trying not to get too much paint on the finished grass areas. A simple solutions is a piece of paper cut into a trapezoid shape. The narrow end slipped under the fence until the paper touched the posts. A piece of heavy card was positioned behind the wire and the whole lot air brushed with a dirty grey/brown colour, (Floquil Railroad Tie Brown).



And the finished product... Yes, a little paint strayed onto the grass but not to worry. Eventually a few more weeds and vines will appear along the length of the fence.




Another view from the opposite side.



Now I'm off to do some fencing around the cattle dock area.

Cheers, Gary.




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Well it has been a productive day since my earlier post. The fence to the cattle dock is complete as well as the platform fencing.

The cattle dock fencing is an extension off the gates at the top of the earth ramp. Again, Northeastern Lumber was used for this. HO scale 6" x 6" posts and 6" x 4" rails were used for this. The strange looking arched shape in the middle was made deliberately to suit the slope of the ramp. I decided to go with three rails as opposed to five on the cattle dock itself. After all, the cattle dock would be built to railway specs, but the ramp fence maybe not so...



Once the glue had gone off, I gave the fence a paint with a wash of Humbrol Grey Primer (no.1). Prior to installation, the ramp had some timber strips laid into the surface. This is a few lengths of Northeastern Lumber (10" x 3"), painted grimey black with a wash of light grey. A light scattering of soil was then placed over the surface to give the ramp a well worn in/trampled look. A few holes were punched into the scenery and the fence was situated and glued into position. Another length of post and wire fence will eventually go in on the left of the cattle dock, as seen below.



The next fence is a three rail platform fence. I decided to make this out of styrene as a timber version would have been awkward to hold and glue into position. Below is a sketch of the fence to better understand what I am aiming at.




This was quite easily achievable in styrene as I used Rocket Max (10-20second hold) cyano. The rails were all cut at 8' long and the posts cut in 5' lengths. Six sections measures just approximately 50 scale feet, perfect for what is required.



Each section of fence was glued together individually, starting with one section having two posts and three rails whilst the other five sections had the three rails and one post. After all had cured (reasonably quick !) the individual sections were butted to each other and glued.



Once both left and right hand side fences were complete and the glued cured, they were given one coat of paint. The colour is 'Matt Stone', Revell no.89. This is the same colour as the trim on the platform shelter. After an hour or so, the paint had dried adequately enough to handle, it was measured out on the platform, holes were marked, drilled and the fence positioned.



Another pic...



Well, you could say that I have been fenced in all day... :roll: Still a few more fences to go in and perhaps some more finer detailing, - weeds, bushes, trackside junk, signal, platform seats, trolleys, boxes, crates.... The list is never ending !

Cheers, Gary.







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Thanks for sharing your fencing with us Gary. I found your 'How to' both interesting and easy to follow, once I've got the materials together I'll have a go and building some myself. Looking forward to seeing the work progress. :cheers 

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Brilliant! :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

Terry

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Hi Gary,

first class, I don't think you'll be too surprised when I tell you that I'll be doing a bit of wholesale theft of your idea's and techniques.:mutley

Really good and general purpose that would not look outof place on any layout really.

thanks for posting in such detail.

consider it copied

toto :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

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I'm not usually one to post the 'me too' type of message but I am really enjoying following this build.

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Me too.  :mutley

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Great little layout, never mind shunting puzzle! Nice use of old track as well. Enjoying the read so far.

I also tried making my own fencing posts some years ago using North East Lumber. The nearest "HO" dimension is 6" x 6" (approximately 5" x 5" in 4mm scale, corresponding to one 5" x 10" rail tie cut in half). The GWR normally used 5 holes, and I used very fine steel wire, the kind used for bead jewelry (32 gauge from memory). Mind you, drilling all those holes was tedious in the extreme. End posts at gates, stiles, corners etc. had a 45° support on the inside which the wires went through.

I really liked the cattle dock, although most were derelict and in disrepair by the advent of diesels. The use of wood is a nice touch and not often done. The provender shed post WW2 would have been used for grain and fertilizer, etc., not horse fodder, so a Silcox sign (or similar grain and fertilizer merchant) would be a nice touch.

Nigel

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Thankyou all for your comments, I'm chuffed ! :mrgreen:

Barney. I'm  glad you find this interesting and easy to follow. I intend to keep this thread simple, as I would hope that 'newbies' to the hobby can pick things up and possibly learn from it. As with any layout, there is always more to come. ;-)

Terry. Thankyou for your kind word ! :oops:

Toto. Not sure about 1st Class, but maybe riding in the guards van ! Thanks for the kind words and feel free to take and learn as many techniques you wish. It is no surprise how much I have learnt from other members on here. :)

Bod. I'm glad you have been enjoying the read. I'll try and keep it interesting and keep your attention ! ;-)

Max. Thankyou. The scenery part is what I enjoy best. If I can capture the scenery and replicate the real world in miniture, it will make the layout look that little more realistic, also enjoyable to achieve. Still got a long way to go before I produce standards of some other members here. I admire Nick's 'Much Murkle', Phil's 'Pen Y Bryn', Marty's 'Newcastle Emlyn', Ben's 'Far North Line', just to name a few. Still a long way to go to match these guys ! :sad:

BCDR. Thankyou. As long as you are enjoying the ride, stay aboard ! You have given me some food for thought with those materials you mention. ;-) The cattle dock is my version of Goathland. I liked the idea of timber as opposed to the usual concrete posted, steel rail as the majority of cattle docks were built, (aka Ratio). Signs are one thing I haven't any yet. I keep looking at signs on various traders online catalogues and will purchase some in the not too distant future. I do need some for this layout, my son's layout (Continuous Loop) and for the 'Kelly Bray' layout.

Pic of Goathland cattle dock - http://www.mylearning.org/goathland-as-a-contrasting-locality/images/4-1684/

Cheers, Gary.

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Hey Gary

I seemed to have missed this build completely. What a great start and it is obviously giving you lots of enjoyment. I've always thought that one of the secrets to getting realistic scenery is to use lots of different shades and textures and you have achieved that admirably. I know that you've mentioned Much Murkle and others as your inspiration but from what I can see in the photos your efforts are as good as anything I've seen on the forum.

That track (road) particularly is superb :thumbs

Last edited on Mon Feb 17th, 2014 01:47 pm by pnwood

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Hi Garry,

There are plenty of sign packs around, unfortunately most of them are from the 1920's-1930's. There is a good site covering line-side industries - http://www.igg.org.uk/gansg/12-linind/012-index.htm - with names and pictures from the 1950's and 1960's. ICI, Fisons, Bibby's, Silcock's, etc....

I gave up on commercial offerings of enamel signs, as the print quality on many (most in fact) is poor. I make my own using MS Powerpoint or CorelDraw (MS Word at a pinch), and print either on glossy photo paper (shiny enamel)  or on transfer/decal sheets (for corrugated buildings) at high resolution using an ink-jet printer. Not much difference in price but a world of difference in quality. Plus you can add the name of the local merchant/agent (real or fictitious). Color the edges with a felt-tipped pen of the appropriate color.

Same goes for local coal merchant signs, commercial offerings for which are like hen's teeth. Like cattle pens, most coal staithes were out of use by the end of the 1950's (as were the weigh bridges). Coal was often loaded directly from the coal wagon onto the coal lorry, with the scales on the lorry or in the wagon. Not so much in BR days, but I can remember watching this operation in the late 1950's at a small village station. There was enough business for 2-3 coal wagons a week in the winter (one a month in the summer), as there was no local gas works.

I can see the start of your shunting puzzle already, fertilizer/seed, coal and cattle (or beer barrels) in, empty wagons/vans out. Plus the odd piece of agricultural equipment.

Nigel

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Coming on very nicely Gary.
Thank you for the mention, very happy to inspire, but you are making a lovely job of it yourself and I'm enjoying the thread and think that it will be invaluable to others, especially beginners to the hobby.
Other stock for your puzzle.
Inbound
A station truck, bits and pieces that are less than a load were consolidated into a truck designated for that station, cigarettes for the local shops, bundles of brown paper for the haberdashery in the village, drenching powders for Farmer Pollock at Barrack's Cross farm.
The occasional baskets of pigeons for release at race time.
Out bound 
Rabbits, in baskets, for the butcher in the next town.
Puppies or days old chicks, raised at the local farm and being shipped off to new owners.
... great work on the cattle dock ramp with the boards across to hinder the erosion and give the cattle something to get their hooves into....
More please....


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Thankyou Marty.

Always good to learn what other items or stock can be transported by the railways. Thankyou again for your infomation and inspiration !

I was thinking fairly basic items for railway transportation, typically farm produce (fruit/livestock), farm equipment, pesticides and herbicides, coal for a local merchant, oil drums, crated goods for the local village etc. But you have opened my eyes a little more on some of the lesser known frieght that the railways carried. I may have to purchase an ale wagons, a conflat, a lime wagon, a GWR (:oops:) Fruit D wagon or BR Fruit Mex... This list could be endless, but all can be used on my Kelly Bray layout.:thumbs

Tonight I have been working on tree armatures.

These are copper wire that has been hand wound to create a desired frame/armature. All the wire came out of a scrap bin at work, where they are doing renovations to the offices. I will say I like 'cheap'. Basically, it took almost the same amount of time to strip the sheath off the wire as it did to twist these up ! Not to mention that my fingers are now sore !:cry:



Tomorrow afternoon, I will give these a coat of 'No More Gaps', acryllic gap filler. I find this good to use as it is water soluble, which means it can be thinned down to a much more workable consistency. Also it is a good base for acryllic paints. Being flexible, it will allow me to tweak the tree to a good stance once it has gone off.

The taller armature measures 7" high (190mm). In scale, this will equate to 46'... Always good to have a few taller trees on the layout as I find that most trees are underdone in size, especially those cheap Chinese ones. :roll:

Cheers, Gary.


 

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Are those trees Copper Beech?  Or possibly Silver Birch? :lol:

Terry

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:mutley:mutley

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The tree armatures shown in the earlier post, including a few more have all been 'poly-filled', painted and now sprouts growth.

Using a cheap version of 'No More Gaps', (Parfix Gap Filler), all armatures were coated with a layer. In some instances, the filler had to be applied again to thicken the trunks and branches. This is applied by paint brush, squeezing a small amount out and wiping onto the wire.



Allowing plenty of curing time, the coated armatures were painted with grey acryllic paint, from tips to the base. After this had dried, which wasn't that long, a wash of 'burnt umber' was applied. Before this had dried completely, the tips of the branches were given a touch of green (Humbrol Malachite green RC410) acryllic as well as a wash over the trunk and lower edges of the branches. This was allowed to dry for quite some time.



After a coat of burnt umber and green.



Once these had dried completely and to be handled, green poly fibre was glued onto the branches using PVA. At this stage, the poly fibre can be over done, so it's wise to use it sparingly. Always good to know what you are modelling and or have a photo handy to compare the real tree/s to the model.



The next step is probably the simplest. A liberal application of hair spray over the poly fibre. The glued poly fibre does not have to be dry for this step, as it will all dry together. Prior to spraying with hair spray, it is a good idea to have the flock/foliage ready to go. I chose to use a mix of Woodland Scenics course turf, 'Light Green', 'Medium Green' and another unknown brand of a 'yellowy-green'. Mix these together in a container and have them ready for sprinkling.

After a thorough application of hair spray, sprinkle the flock/foliage mix over the top from above. Make sure any poly fibre that has been covered by branches above recieve a sprinkling as well. Once enough has been applied, turn the tree up-side-down and give it a tap over a sheet of paper. Any flock/foliage that comes off can be re-used. Waste nothing ! This now turned back upright, has another application of hair spray to secure the foliage on.



Close up.



I have also completed some smaller trees than these, saplings. The method is identical although more green than burnt umber is used on the trunks/branches.

That's it for today/tonight, well until planting them anyway !

Cheers, Gary.






 

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Superb! :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

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Love your three peg armature clamp Gary,very innovative.:thumbs

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This is the first time I've ever seen those copper wire armatures look any good, Gary.

You've cracked it!  :thumbs

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Another winner for you Gary!

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Gazza! Gazza! Gazza! :doublethumb:doublethumb:doublethumb

Gazza for President!

Terry

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Great work Gary,

I'm inspired by the speed and the enthusiasm and the the time you have taken to explain how and what you have done.

Cheers

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Thankyou all for the kind comments. Don't know about 'President' Terry. Do you really want the railways to return to steam, mostly Southern steam, with a few Aussie locos thrown in the mix ?? ;-) ;-)

Nothing to report on tonight, although I have started on the Lock Keepers Cottage which I'll be using as a three sided shell to cover up the point levers and isolating switch. Then I guess I'll have to place a yard or fence around this. Then again, I could convert it to the Station Masters house or a warehouse/office for a local business... Hmm ? Not sure what yet. During the curing processes of the cottage, I have railway crossing timbers to install, a yard crane, more greenery and a signal to finish...

Cheers, Gary.

 

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Now,

There is a man with a plan. :mutley

Look forward to seeing itGary.

Toto

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The Lock Keepers Cottage came together and does the required job of hiding the point levers and isolating switch. Even though there is still more detailing to be done on the cottage, ie chimney tops, gutters, downpipes, front steps, path etc, it fits nicely over the controls. All the interior was left out ofcouse, but the windows are recieving curtains !



Since the pic above has been taken, I have fitted the roof, but the back gable will need a fair bit removed to access the point levers easily. At the moment the control levers are just to close to the gable and fingers do lift the model up when activating the levers. Eventually the windows will be 'blacked out', so that the controls can not be seen in through the front.




As for the signal I was building (Ratio), I spoke with a friend who suggested that a 'starter' signal isn't necessarily applicable. His reason was that the branch (terminus) would have been controlled by exchanging staffs at the individual ground frames/signal boxes and that this is a terminus and not a through station.  Apparently there is another signal box 2 1/2 miles up the line ! ;-)

Anyway, that solves the signalling issues and that's it for tonight.

Until tomorrow, cheers for now.

Gary.

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Hi Gary,

I take it you are keeping us in suspense for a shot of the font elevation :mutley

You are a bad man. Look forward to seeing the rest.

Cheers toto.

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Just to keep Toto in suspense for a pic of the cottage front, I thought I'd show off the railway crossing signs I made up.



These were made up by copying a drawing, reducing down in size to I got it 'about' right, then printing. The printing isn't the best close up (inkjet), :roll:, but it came out as reasonable as I expected. The prints were then glued to a thin piece of styrene and allowed to dry for some time. First I used Bostick and after a while flooded the paper with 'Rocket' cyano. Once this had cured properly, the sign was trimmed around the 'X', the 'Give Way' and the 'Loco icon'. This was then arranged and glued to a length of 1mm diametre styrene rod. Given adequate time to dry, the backs and post were painted with 'Grimey Black', a dark and dirty deep grey/black. The post does need painting in black/white strips, but this is the first go at sign posting !

A pic of the signs in place.



The level crossing timbers were also put in place as well. This is simply balsa cut to shape, scribed, painted in a dirty grey wash, glued in place and then dusted up. The check rails are off-cuts of old rail, bent to shape and glued into place.






The rails in the above pic definately need a clean...

Cheers, Gary.



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Hi Gary,

The sign are sound..........but you are a bad man:It's a no no, get that cottage on........I know you've finished it........you can't kid a kidder.

Cheers

Toto

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Ok, Toto has waited long enough..., now I present the cottage.

This is what it looked like a few days ago...



and now...



another view...



This kit, Scalescenes Lock Keepers Cottage is a great kit, very enjoyable to build. I left off the side 'office' and used this as just a railway workers (station masters residence) cottage. I have included curtains on all windows as I didn't want the point controls (levers) to be seen. The garden could do with some lupins and roses, maybe some ivy on one of the side walls. I might just have a go at making some of these up...

Cheers, Gary.



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You've done a marvelous job of it, Gary.  :thumbs

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Excellent Gary,

Well worth the wait. It was made for the location and the scenics round about it just finish it off.

Are the brickwork walls as they came or did you have to detail these any further yourself as they look really look the part. The whole thing is very inkeeping with the rest of the layout. Very rural and natural looking. Again great use of very muted colours.

First class

Toto

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Hi Max and Toto,

Thank you both !

Toto, the brickwork is straight out of the printer ! This is Scalescenes 'Aged Brown Brick'. The kit comes in three choices of building material, Aged Red Brick, Aged Brown Brick and Ashlar. The station platform and the piers under the goods shed is also done in the same brick. You could say it all came from the local brickworks...!

Cheers, Gary.

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Yep! Ivy would look good :lol:

 

Phil

 


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Hi Gary,

Do they sell down load able sheets of plain brick. I'd like to use some of that for sections of retaining walls. If it's a one off payment for as many prints as you like it could be a very good option. Just cut to size, glue to card or whatever and you have as much as you need.

The double headers underneath the platform capping stone looked good as well.

Cheers

Toto

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Great model Gary. Keep it up. You are an inspiration to us all.

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Tom - yes, it's a one off payment, and print as much as you like, as you thought.
Another option is to register with CG textures (google them) there is no charge, and a fantastic range of downloadable walls, floors, windows - you name it they have it.

Back to Gary.

Shaun.

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Hi Shaun,

Many thanks for the tip. I shall go and investigate.

Cheers

Toto

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Thank you all for the comments.

Phil, you have convinced me on the ivy with your 'magical wizardry' with the additions you have made. :thumbs

Mick, you are just as much as an inspiration ! :mrgreen:

Shaun, thanks for answering Toto. It was bed time for me by that stage ! ;-)

Toto, take a look what is available at Scalescenes ; http://www.scalescenes.com/ I have just read that John has a few more new kits on there way... A diesel depot, steam coaling stage, school, modern station building, low relief terraced house and shops, 1970's semi detached houses and a cargo ship....

Cheers, Gary.

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There's another project for someone, dockyard, quayside, couple of ships, the old Hornby Dock Shunter:hmm


(Not me, I ain't got the space.) :mutley



Ed

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Lame excuse Ed :mutley I'm sure you could squeeze a dock in somewhere.:hmm

Cheers

Toto

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Whilst sitting in front of the tele this weekend, I decided to spend some time twisting up a tree and some roses. The roses are for the Station Masters residence and the tree to help fill the back corner of the layout.

The roses were made using the same method as the trees, copper wire twisted, painted with gap filler, painted and flock added. The roses (flowers) are tiny dabs of enamel paint applied with a tooth pick.



The tree can be seen here amongst the others on the layout, it is the darker green one in the middle.



Another pic of the trees, this time a little more scenic !



Cheers, Gary.



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This is really progressing well Gary. Might pinch your idea for flowers though. I need a few scattered around. Keep it up. Looking forward to next post.

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That last picture was tree. Medous Gary.:mutley.

Looks the business. I feel another picture of the week coming on with that one.

Cheers

Toto

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Just caught up with the developments.

Southeastern Finecast do sheets of brick with prototypical mortar spacing and depth in Plain, English and Flemish bond, plus lintels, arches, etc. The size of a sheet is 12" x 9", which minimizes joints. Easy to cut and bend as well. Comparison with others is chalk and cheese.

I'll post a photo next week.

Nigel

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Excellent work Gary.  :thumbs

Terry

Last edited on Mon Mar 3rd, 2014 12:20 am by col.stephens

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Hi Nigel,

Please do come back with the brickwork.I'd like to see what these sheets are looking like.

Cheers

Toto

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Thankyou once again for the kind comments. Take any ideas/methods you wish Mick, you're very welcome.

Toto, the Slaters embosed brick sheet... The scale rule gives you an idea of brick size.



This sheet measure 270mm x 370mm. I purchased 2 sheets with that order that took a long time to arrive from Antics Online...

Cheers, Gary.

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Hi Gary,

Are the mortar courses clearly defined as i would be able to utilise the same painting techniques as used with the Townstreet models for painting the mortar courses.
I have a bit of time on my side before I actually need to start using these products ( ie track laying and some electrics etc ) but as usual, I normally start picking up these things well in advance.

The brickwork sheets sure look the business I'll have a look at salters website as I may be after some cobbled sheets as well.

Thanks for taking the time to post the picture Gary.

Cheers

Toto

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Hi Gary
After following your link that you gave me the other day I thought I would pop over for a proper look and I’m surprised to see how far it had moved on.
It’s all looking very good and I shall have to try and keep a more regular eye on progress. The trees by the way look pretty good but a bit too much foliage for me as I’m trying to capture an autumn scene but whether I will succeed or not is yet to be seen.
 
All the best
 
Jim
p.s. Still having Dongle issues here and I had to leave the net to type this.

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Hi Toto,

With embosed plasticard, it is always good to give it a light undercoat first, just to help the paint stick properly. Just don't flood the mortar courses if using aerosol primer. This probably goes against what I have said previously when I have painted concrete or wooden buildings, as I want an 'aged' weathered look. I tend to give styrene a once over with matt enamels, no undercoat/primer so that the paint isn't uniform over the model when it dries.

Two ways to paint the embosed plasticard.

1. Paint all the mortar courses first (after undercoat/primer) and dry brush the brick with colour.

2. Paint all the brick first in a variety of colours (after undercoat/primer), then give the whole wall a wash in mortar colour. Wipe down the surface as you go, keeping the wash in the motar gaps only.

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the comments, but don't get this plank mixed up with the Kelly Bray layout, which has taken a back seat for a little while... It'll be back soon. I had the urge to do some landscaping and it gives me something to play with, whilst I can't run anything on Kelly Bray ! As for the trees, I had considered a few autumn trees as I do have some yellow/orange foliage stash away. Looking foward to that 80' elm of yours !

Cheers, Gary.

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toto wrote: Hi Gary,

Are the mortar courses clearly defined as i would be able to utilise the same painting techniques as used with the Townstreet models for painting the mortar courses.
I have a bit of time on my side before I actually need to start using these products ( ie track laying and some electrics etc ) but as usual, I normally start picking up these things well in advance.

The brickwork sheets sure look the business I'll have a look at salters website as I may be after some cobbled sheets as well.

Thanks for taking the time to post the picture Gary.

Cheers

Toto

Toto, Slaters' brickwork is ok, and I have used it in both 4mm and 7mm scales, but I think that there might be better examples of cobblestones on the market.

Terry

Last edited on Wed Mar 5th, 2014 06:31 pm by col.stephens

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Hi Terry,

Thanks for the comments. I'll have a look around before jumping in. I'm not ready to use it as yet so time is on my side.

I Think it could be a case of horses for courses. Some companies good for one thing but not necessarily the other.

The good thing about the forum is that there is always someone who has experience of the various products and can express an honest opinion from which to base your own decisions. Saves some expensive mistakes.

Cheers

Toto

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Just a couple of update pics of the layout...

I made some simple conifers/saplings for the layout using the 'el-cheapo' plastic flower foliage.



I had splashed some brown paint around the trunk, just in case it looked too dodgy. Then I applied PVA all over and then sprinkled with a mix off dark greens and course foliage over the PVA. Let dry then plant.



and planted...



Now for some pics of the layout...



^ Ivy on the wall and the roses have been planted in the front garden. Just realised that the glue is still tacky in this pic.



^ View from platform across the yard. I have to do something about a backscene !



^ Morning sunlight catches the cottage.



^ The local coal merchant in the lorry and the Station Master's wife in the Morris, wait at the crossing for the the afternoon passenger hauled today by a Class T9, 30285 to pass.

Cheers, Gary.







 

Last edited on Sat Mar 8th, 2014 05:24 pm by Gary

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Hi Gary,

Superb, the scenics really add the final touches. Very realistic.

Cheers

Toto

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Perfection in such a short space of time Gary.Beautifully done.

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Great work, Gary.  :thumbs

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Thankyou Toto, more scenics to come. I still have to put the little details around the layout yet, like barrels, trolleys, yard crane, perhaps another loading ramp/platform.... 

Alan, thankyou and I guess being a small layout, the scenics can be done reasonably quickly, although I haven't done a lot this week.

Max, thankyou, I must say now the glue has dried, it looks a lot better ! I have taken a few more pics from the phone as it is better than my camera, which I'll post another time.

I have recently been pondering names for this layout, but I have to decide on something as I would like to produce some station name boards.

I have put a few descriptive names through a free online anagram program and this is a few I have given consideration to;

Timinnel Park - from Termini Plank

Klinnup Stream - from Terminus Plank

Blintarm Reach - Branch Terminal

Trimalen Branch - Branch Terminus

Linden Foe - End Of Line

Blinn Reach - from Branch Line

Strode Rhea - Three Roads

Now to make a decision ?? :hmm  What is your choice ?? :hmm

Cheers, Gary.

 

 

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Hi Gary,

Linden Foe sounds the biz. It has a bit of a Scottish ring to it . Three roads also sounds good.

Cheers

Toto

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Gets my vote too Gary, but I'd change Foe to Ford.

The river could be off scene, or you could create a dried-up stream bed somewhere.

Just sounds right after looking at the pictures.


Ed

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Just don't take Poynton Chute - I'm saving it for my next target layout.   :mutley

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Tremallen Branch Gary. It sounds Welsh or Cornish. If Welsh would bring in other Companies as well as the God's Wonderful.

Last edited on Sun Mar 9th, 2014 01:38 pm by 60019Bittern

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Cheers for the encouragement for Linden Foe. I do like the ring Ed has put on it as 'Linden Ford'.

Mick, you're right about your choice and it has a valid reason as well. I have an eclectic mix of old stock from LMS, GWR, LNER and ofcourse SR, that can be used on this layout.

Looking at various pics and maps on the net, the area around the East Somerset Railway has very similar landscape to what I have modelled, Also just up the road from the railway is a pub called 'The Strode Arms', so Strode Rhea could also be a winner. Strode Rhea was my next choice and again, it has that Scottish ring to it... Maybe I should be modelling the LMS ;-).

Hmmm, I'm sure the LMS loaned rollingstock to the S&DJR and I can also run Southern stock on the layout to boot ! Maybe a 7F could be on the cards too... (cheers Toto :mrgreen:)...

Max, I like that! Another anagram for End Of Line is, 'Olden Fine'..., but I ain't quite there yet !!  :lol::lol:

Cheers, Gary.

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If you choose the wartime era Gary you could run what you like as things got shoved about all over the place, or even a preserved line. That would really allow you to run anything. Guest locos etc.

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Excellent work Gary. :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

You could take a real name and change it slightly.  How about changing Waterloo to Garyloo? :mutley

Terry

Last edited on Sun Mar 9th, 2014 02:19 pm by col.stephens

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Sounds like Gary's got caught short.:mutley Linden Ford sounds good Gary,got a nice ring to it.

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"How about changing Waterloo to Garyloo?"

Sorry, thought you meant change at Waterloo for Garyloo. Is that on the Southern Region line? :hmm

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Barneybuffer wrote: "How about changing Waterloo to Garyloo?"

Sorry, thought you meant change at Waterloo for Garyloo. Is that on the Southern Region line? :hmm

Somewhere in Belgium I think :mutley

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Well it's been well over a week now and I haven't too much to report on. But I will say that I chose the name "Linden Ford", for the plank. I'd like to thank Ed for the name change from Linden Foe to Linden Ford, it really has a nice ring to it. 

                                                                     Cheers Ed ! :pathead

The next step was to make up some station name boards. After googling at a few pics, I came away thinking that these can not be too hard to make up.

So, the materials...

2 x 5mm x 28mm pieces of 0.5mm styrene sheet for the name board,  4 x 28mm lengths of 0.4 x 0.5mm styrene strip for the name board surrounds, 4 x 28mm lengths of 1.0 x 1.5mm styrene strip for the posts and two printed names. These were just printed out in MS Word, white on black and sprayed with matt finishing sealer.

The 0.4 x 0.5mm strip was glued to the outer edges of the back board. The name was cut down to a 4mm strip and glued to the back board with Zappa Gap. On a flat surface, the post were pushed up against the name board and glued into position using a little Rocket Max (10-20sec hold). The tops just need trimming up to the same height. The next step is to give them a paint to match the station building and fences, then insert into platform surface.



There is a spot on the left of the sign where the Rocket Max has marked the sign. This should be an easy fix with a felt tip pen, ofcourse after painting the sign frame.

Cheers, Gary.


Last edited on Tue Mar 18th, 2014 01:16 pm by Gary

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Hi Gary,

........ And so Linden Ford was born.......:mutley. I like the name myself. Let's see a snap of the sign in place with a loco drawing up to the platform.

Good stuff

Toto

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Thanks Gary, I'm flattered :oops:

Just shows how good this forum is, I gave you an idea for a name change and you've already given me the idea of a small station/halt on my track plan, even though we live about 10,000 miles apart.

I'm with Toto, looking forward to a picture of a train pulling up past the station sign.


Ed

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Hi Toto and Ed,

Thankyou, but that photo may be some time off just at the moment as my order of Peco fencing, gates and buffers, Dapol people, Model Scene cattle, sheep and lambs, and Wills yard crane arrived today from Hattons. I guess this weekend I'll be busy putting some of those extra touches in place to nearly complete this plank.

As for 10,000 miles apart Ed, that's very true, but atleast we can chat, conjure, convince, clap and conclude only moments away in time. That is one good thing about this club, even though we are all in different time zones, an answer is never far away !

Cheers, Gary.

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More delaying tactics with the photo's Gary. This is becoming a bit of a habit. :mutley

Toto

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toto wrote: More delaying tactics with the photo's Gary. This is becoming a bit of a habit. :mutley

Toto

Don't know what the hold up is Toto, he's only working on three layouts at the same time :mutley


Ed

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Complete lack of commitment.......... make that 4 layouts, he has his thumb in my pie if you will excuse the phrase.

cheers

Toto

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Very impressive trees and foliage , Gary.

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Top spot, you'll be moving in there permanently Gary, :mutley

Keep them coming Gary.

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Beautiful work Gary,
             I wouldn`t mind visiting that little village.
Cheers Gormo

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Thanks Chris. I have been toying away with the wire framed trees for some time now and hopefully I'm onto a winner with the ones you see here. They may take some time to make, but atleast there won't be two the same.

Thanks Toto. As promised and as you have just asked, here is a few more pics of the layout...

On Thursday I received my parcel from Hattons and have been busy painting figures, building and installing a yard crane, painting and installing the station name boards, painting and installing some field fencing, also the addition of a couple of cows...




Field fencing and gate installed with a few roaming and resting cows. Oh yes, the photographer does like his new car ! A fairly new Ford Popular 103E parked next a Ferguson tractor...



The Wills yard crane has been constructed, painted and installed on a brick edged concrete foundation. This can access both the line in the foreground and the one directly behind.



Both station name boards have been painted and planted onto the platform.



An M7 rounds the curve into Linden Ford with a short single coach train for the waiting passengers.



The morning arrival trundles slowly past the waiting passengers.



The photographer takes to the shade whilst the morning sun catches the train as it rounds itself into Linden Ford.

Cheers, Gary.




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What peaceful, idyllic scenes, especially when it's turned dark and dismal here, and we're going through a cold snap.

Great pictures Gary :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs


Ed

 

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Looking excellent again Gary. Keep up the good work.

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Hi Gary,

Really excellent and deserving of the great comments lavished on it. Thanks for the extra pictures. You have captured everything so well. All these scenes are so idyllic they could have been lifted straight out of a Beatrice Potter book. So pleasant and relaxing to look at.

A pleasure to view

Cheers

Toto

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Top marks Gary,That needs to go on the exhibition circuit.:doublethumb:doublethumb:pathead:pathead:pathead:cheers:cheers

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Thanks for the kind comments, much appreciated. Gormo, come on down ! The weather has been brilliant in these neck of the woods, although a little overcast out over the hills...

Ed, thankyou. I'm glad it cheered your day up.

Mick, there is still some more detailing to be done yet... The layout has certainly moved along. This weekend commemorates 'week 8' of the build...

Toto, I have tried to capture that 'idealic country branchline' look and by what you have posted, I have come close.

Alan, thanks for the top marks. Exhibition circuit eh ? I'll box it up and send it over to you.

Ok, the educational part... This is how I made the brick edged concrete foundation for the yard crane. Luckily for me, SWMBO is of the 'crafty kind' and has an abundance of punches (not the KO type thankfully), templates etc. So after asking nicely, she let me raid her stash of goodies. I came across a hexagonal punch to which I thought would make a great shape for the foundation for the crane. So with some 'corno flako' card, I punched out 4 hexagons. Three of these were glued together with the top one scribed, corner to corner.



^ the hexagon on the right is actually 3 glued together, the top being scribed, then stippled with some grey matt enamel, for a concrete look.

The next step was to line the edges with a header course of Scalescenes brick paper. A hole has been drilled through the card to take the pin of the yard crane. Although a little rough looking, it will be ok...



Next step is to install the foundation onto the layout. I had measured the crane from the centre to the furthest point of the jib. This came out to be approx. 70mm, so I measured the area in the goods yard where 140mm to rail centres existed. This way the crane could access both tracks within the yard. I marked out where the centre would be, punched a small hole in the base board and lined up the foundation. This was then glued in place with PVA. 

 

The crane was then glued to the foundation with Zappa Gap.



Now, just an overall view of Linden Ford... I do have to do something about that backscene !



...and this is the Ferguson tractor that I had taken some paints to... Originally it was all grey and pristine. It did have that 'show room' feel to it.



First up I painted the motor and gear box a dirty red colour, Humbrol red enamel with a touch of weathered black. After allowing this to dry (touch dry), a weathered black 'wash' was splashed over the model, highlighting the areas where oil leaks would occur. Finally a splash of tan (dust) wash was applied. Again over the body, the wheels under the rear wheel guards and the chassis. A thicker wash was painted onto the tyres and seat.

Cheers, Gary.





60019Bittern
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Looks even better now Gary. That overall shot looks great. Also like what you did to the Fergie.

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Brilliant! :thumbs

Terry

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After starting a thread on station staff uniform colours, I mentioned to Terry (col.stephens)that I had been carving up a few figures. Here are two of the figures which have been altered. The two in the middle are the donors and the results on the outsides.



I have used the methods employed by Doug (dooferdog) with these figures by carving with a scapel into the folds between the clothing (jackets) and carving off the 'ruffles' on the jacket, (compare 3rd and 4th figures coats).

The chap on the left has had a head replacement/swap (from a railway workman) and his arm and newspaper carved off. The right arm of the 4th figure was carved off and fixed to this figure. The carved up donor has had bits and pieces glued in place to make him look as if both hands are in his pockets. A little filling in is still required up around the shoulders of the blackened figures. Then a coat of paint or two, maybe three...

I would like to thank Doug for the link (below) supplied. If you haven't seen this, it's worth looking at prior to any figure painting.

https://www.model-railways-live.co.uk/Articles/274-17/Modelling_Help_and_Advice/Painting_Dapol_Figures_by_Doug_Dickson/

So, thankyou Doug ! :pathead


Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Wed Mar 26th, 2014 11:20 am by Gary

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Excellent work Gary. :thumbs

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Very good Gary, I like what you've done with the figures. I would also like to say how much I admire your attention to detail and work on the Lindon Ford project. A must for exhibitions I'd say. Well done indeed.

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The chap on the right looks remarkably like a character from one of those 1960's black and white espionage films, probably on surveillance :mutley



Looking good :thumbs



Ed

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Love it, cracking little scenes!

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Hi Gary,

Some painstaking work done with these figures but well worth while in order to get some bespoke figures. Excellent job. Now, where is that paint brush........

Cheers

Toto

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Thankyou all for the kind comments.

Yes, these are fiddly little figures to play around with, or I should say, 'cut n' shut'. I should have them painted by the weekend at the latest.

As Ed posted earlier about the chap that looks like 'a character from one of those 1960's black and white espionage films', maybe he is really Dr Beeching... sly dog ! :twisted::twisted::twisted:

Barney, the only exhibiting I do is on here. Maybe I could place an entrance fee on the viewing...! ;-);-) There is still some more detailing to do on Linden Ford. You know, the 'accumulative junk' that appears around railway sidings/yards, a few point levers, maybe a station lamp or two....

Cheers, Gary.

60019Bittern
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And don't forget the Station Cat. Most had them, and perhaps the odd trainspotter.

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A couple of baskets with chooks in them sitting on the platform and a post box at the gate of the cottage. ( or is that a British thing ? )

Possibly a feeding silo thingy for the cattle in the dock area.

Cheers

Toto

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How about cows wandering on the line, making all the trains slow down.


Ed

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One for you Ed... :mrgreen:



Hmmm, a cat does sound good Mick ! Does anyone know where to get a OO gauge from..?

Toto, In this small idealic village where the sun always shines and the friendly folk know each other (must be Cornwall...), the post man personally delivers the mail directly to your door... As for the milk man though, ask the station master's wife... :shock:

The feeding trough for the cattle dock is a good idea. I also have a few taps on standpipes to go in as well. Early on in this thread, Marty mentioned the crates of pigeons being delivered for the Sunday races...! Now I have to catch those little pigeons and coax them into the crates...;-)

Cheers, Gary.

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I think Dart Castings do a cat Gary, or maybe Langley

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Gary wrote: One for you Ed... :mrgreen:



Hmmm, a cat does sound good Mick ! Does anyone know where to get a OO gauge from..?

Toto, In this small idealic village where the sun always shines and the friendly folk know each other (must be Cornwall...), the post man personally delivers the mail directly to your door... As for the milk man though, ask the station master's wife... :shock:

The feeding trough for the cattle dock is a good idea. I also have a few taps on standpipes to go in as well. Early on in this thread, Marty mentioned the crates of pigeons being delivered for the Sunday races...! Now I have to catch those little pigeons and coax them into the crates...;-)

Cheers, Gary.



:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

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Hello again,

Long time with nothing to report on, until now. As per usual with model railways, you lay the track, wire it up and then test, test and do more testing, just to make sure all the electrics are good and points work appropriately. Low and behold, after all the scenics have gone in, I gave the layout a run. All good so far with bogie diesels through the points but not so good with the steamies... I have one set of points on the layout that are not performing as you would expect...

This culprit... As you can see, I have tried soldering in a guild rail, prior to the blade to help guide the loco through the points. The guide rail can be seen below the toe of the point blade.



So the only answer is to replace it, and an order was placed with Hattons. You may ask why I didn't buy the set of points locally ? Reason, because it is actually cheaper to purchase from the UK and pay for postage than it is to purchase the same point in Sydney and I also wanted a few other items. When I arrived home today, there was a package waiting for me, just in time for the long weekend. Woo hoo, happy days !

The replacement... What ever happened to full cardboard packaging...?



A few other items were purchased.... Gaugemaster Tiny Signs for the station platform fence and the goods shed.



and two wagons... Yes, I know, they not Southern. But, with the abundance and variety of agriculture in and around Linden Ford, both LMS and the GWR wants to get in on the act... Quality free range eggs and only the best fruit and veg in the UK come out of the valley... ;-);-)



Both of the above wagons are from Dapol and the quality on the Fruit D is exceptional ! They both do need a little weathering.

Well, I know what I'll be doing over the Easter break...

Happy Easter everyone ! :cheers

Cheers, Gary.




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Hi Gary,

Like the wagons. Mind the post weathering photo's please . I've had a couple of sets of points delivered with the same packaging but only the odd couple. As long as they re adequately protected then I guess it's neither here nor there.

The tiny signs are great as well. I'll have to have a wee look at these myself. I don't fancy the job of getting these old points out and getting the new ones in now that all the scenics have been done. I hope it doesn't spoil it in any way.

Keep us up to date with your progress over the weekend.

Cheers for now

Toto

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Happy Easter, Gary! Those signs will really look the business on your fence. Hope the point replacement isn't too much trouble for you...

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A happy Easter to you and your family Gary and to all YMRC members.:Happy

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Sounds about right Gary, service alterations over the Easter break due to track maintenance :mutley

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Have you got a bus Gary, for a Bus Replacement Service, or even a Stagecoach.

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Thankyou and I'll post the upcoming tasks.

Toto, the Fruit D is a splendid wagon with plenty of undercarriage detail, very nice. Here's a close-up..



Once weathered, the lower truss rods, brake gear and W irons etc, will show up even better.

Mike, as for lifting the point, hopefully it won't be a bu##er of a job. Looks like a job for SWMBO best kitchen spatula... ;-)

Ed, rail works at the most appropriate time. You could say that the track work is prototypical ! The only good result is that the families of Linden Ford can now enjoy Easter together... ;-)

Mick, there is only one bus that can help out over the weekend and it has travelled all the way from Jacks Corner to Linden Ford... One 'really useful bus' ! :mrgreen:



Cheers, Gary.



 

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Hi Gary,

The fruit D van does look good, I'll have to have a peek at Dapols stuff on Hattons website.

What I will be looking for is a suitable fuel wagon or two to suit the R & GLR at some point soon. This will be to replenish the fuel depots tanks.

Trying to find something a bit rough and ready looking. Not pristine.

Cheers for now

Toto

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I love the humour on the forum. Good one Gary.

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This morning, before SWMBO ordered me to go and cut the lawn, I lifted the falty point. No problem, as can be seen below. The removal didn't even damage the cork underneath !



The next task is to clean up the excess ballast to make a smooth bed before installing the new point (Peco SL-92). Now what I thought would be identical points, although the original is possibly 20 years old, they are not. The pic below shows them side by side on a cutting mat.



What I need to do now, is to lift the track on the left hand side, cut and relay to match the new point. Here I was thinking that this will be an easy job...:oops:, which it should be, unfortunately not...!

So, did Peco change the length of their track at some point ?? :hmm The new point has 1999 stamped into the back of it, so this is I guess, the patented date, not the date of manufacture.

Anyway, I'll get there in the end !

Cheers, Gary.


Last edited on Fri Apr 18th, 2014 04:15 pm by Gary

col.stephens
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Gary, it's quite obvious that the original point shrunk when you smothered it in PVA and ballast!.  Try to be more careful next time! :lol:

Terry

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Nobody said life was easy Gary, but I'm sure you will overcome in the end. Good luck on the repair anyway. Bye the way, I've finally decided what my plank will be. It's Gunnislake (new station) but not as we know it. A few subtle differences to get everything to fit. I'll probably call the station Drakewalls just so people aren't confused.

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Hi Gary,

You are a brave man taking that apart. Soul destroying. I'm sure that by the time you have finished there will have been a flawless piece of repair work done.

Keep up the good work.

Toto

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Work got underway today, although a little later than anticipated. I didn't have any cutting disks for my dremel look-a-like and the fact that I had to take the boys out for an Easter egg hunt this morning. Atleast the boys had some fun !

Anyway back to the plank... I had to cut out a length of rail from the spur on the left. This was cut some 150mm back beyond the points. Ofcourse this was just past where I had run wires to the rails !



Th track lifted easily enough and the new point installed into position. Unfortunately, there was a small gap (circled below) that needed filling in.




The fine 'fillets of rail were cut and installed (tediously) into the gap by pulling the rail joiners back, dropping in the rail and sliding the rail joiner back onto the point rails. The fillets can be seen below.



Now everything was going well  and the last thing to do, track installation wise, is to replace the missing link. I just wish it was as easy from start to finish as it was to install this last piece of track !



The only jobs left to do now is to solder back up the wires, paint the sleepers a dirty weathered grey, ballast and then test it all out ! Actually, I'll test it all prior to painting and ballasting ! ;-)

Now I'm going to kick back for a while and watch the F1 qualifying session !

Cheers, Gary.







 

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Incredible work on those fillets of rail! I'm ashamed to say that I would have probably just left the gap - it looks about 1mm!?

Happy testing. Not caught up on the qualifying yet... That's next!

Gary
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Hi Mike,

The gap in the rails was 2mm wide and the fillets were cut and filed to about 1.5mm.

I do like the 'clickety clack' sound of the wheels over the joins in rail, but 'clankety clunk', I'm not so sure about ! :mutley

Cheers, Gary.

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Looks good Gary. :thumbs

Terry

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Nice one Gary :thumbs

I'm daft enough to have pulled up the adjoining section of track as well and cut a new bit, never would have thought of cutting a couple of fillets.


Ed

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Hi Gary,

Rather you than me, another great piece of work done.

Cheers

Toto

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Hi Ed,

Unfortunately that section of track had to come up. Due to the new point being slightly longer, the spur did not line up with the point at all.

A bit like this...


The track sections are all wired in now and the sleepers have been painted greyish. Testing will resume in the morning and hopefully all will be good. Ballasting and extra scenics are on the cards tomorrow.

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Sat Apr 19th, 2014 03:54 pm by Gary

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All the wiring went together without a hitch and the tests were positive. Ran an M7 and a older Airfix 3F and no problems arose. Looking at the pic below, you would never know that the track was lifted and replaced, apart from the very shiney rails. Some weathering will have to come to these rails soon.



Some extra track-side details were thrown in whilst I had the glue out. Some old sleepers, a few lengths of rail and heavier clumping of weeds.



The station fence had some signage applied...





...and the goods shed received some advertising signs as well...



and a few pics of the visiting Class 22, D6316...





After D6316 had done it's job and taken its train, not long afterwards the midday commuter arrived, Class 101 DMU.



I really need to do something with the coupler area of this set. The chunky TL coupler is very unsightly. Well, that's your lot for this Sunday and that's my train, I'm off ! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.







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It's looking really great Gary. You could just take the coupling offs the DMU unless you need it to have a tail-load at any time.

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Hi Gary,
it's looking absolutely great. You would never know you had the track back up as you say. I like the class 22 as I have a real soft spot for them. They will be making regular appearances on the R & GLR as well. I've got the two in green and two in blue.

What kind of car is the two tone green car that you can see in one of your pictures ?

The latest touches with the sleepers and rails etc look the part as well as does the signage. Top marks.:pathead:pathead:pathead:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

Cheers for now

Toto

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Looks like a Morris or an Austin from about the late fifties/early sixties Toto.

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Excellent work Gary. :thumbs  Just take the end couplings off the DMU. You don't need them if you are running the unit alone.

Terry

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Hi Bittern,

It has that look about it with the nice lines etc but it's hard to tell. It just suits the layout to a T.

Cheers

Toto

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Thanks for the comments.

Question, is there a dress up kit available for the front of these DMUs ? Cutting the coupler off is definately an option, but it would leave a great big blank space at the front.

As for the car, yes it is a Morris. A Morris Oxford 3 (111). Here is a link to the 1:1 scale model : http://gomotors.net/Morris/Morris-Oxford-Special/photos.html?pic=3 As usual, parked beside the railway line !

I was hoping to paint the underframes of the DMU, Class 22 and a few wagons today, but never got thar far. Instead, I took the boys to the new Lego Movie in 3D. Not a bad movie for the kids or grand kids, let alone the adults !!

Cheers, Gary.

60019Bittern
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Aah! The joys of parenthood. Mind you, some of these kids films are better than some of the more adult offerings. Hope the little ones (and big little ones) enjoyed it too.
As to dress up kits for DMU's have you tried Comet or Craftsman. They did a load some time ago.

Last edited on Mon Apr 21st, 2014 01:46 pm by 60019Bittern

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Thanks for the info Mick. I'll check out both contacts tomorrow.

Cheers, Gary.

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'Cut the couplings off!!!'  Aren't they NEM couplings?

Terry

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Unfortunately not NEM Terry. This is the last of the Lima/Hornby models before they updated to NEM couplers... So, out with the cutting torch !

Cheers, Gary.

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With Toto's comment back in post 147, "Mind the post weathering photo's please...", this afternoon, I decided to get the airbrush and weathering powders out and dirty up a few wagons.

Using Floquil Railroad Tie Brown, which is quite similar to 'Frame Dirt', quite a few wagon underframes were airbrushed. Some Dapol wagons have the advantage of removing the frames from the body of the wagons, which makes painting easy, no tedious masking required. Allowing adequate drying time, about 45mins, the weathering powders came out and I got dusting ! I use Carrs Weathering Powders, which I purchased some time ago. The 4 colours consist of Dark Red, Orange, Tan (dust) and Black.

The first colour applied is either Orange or Dark Red around the springs, axle boxes and lower mechanicals - brake linkages etc. In some instances, both colours were applied on top of each other, starting with the dark red. To tone this done a little, black was dusted over the top. Any steps and/or platforms along the wagon were dusted with the Tan and Black. Next up were the bodies of the vans. The rivets and end steel plates (corner plates) had some dark red brushed over and occasionally some orange. The tan and black was then brushed into the crevices, between the planking on the sides and ends. This also toned down the rusty red/orange. Black was also applied around the handle/lock areas of the doors on the vans. The roof tops were roughly dusted in patches with black, then brushed across the top from side to side. Heavier spots of black were applied around any roof vents as well. I have yet to seal these wagons, that'll be a job for tomorrow.

I did attempted some streaking (that is with the powders, and not running down the road naked...:oops:) and I wasn't really impressed with my efforts. Great thing about powders is that they can be wiped clean with a damp cloth and start again.

Anyhow, here is a few pics...

Remember these...



Here they are now...





An SR guards van... Probably a little 'too red' around the springs and W irons. I'll sort this one out later !



All three together...




These are the "Roberts Tarmacadam" 5 plank/steel floor wagons from Bachmann. I bought the 4 pack when they were going cheap ! I did rub a fibreglass pen over some of the lettering and airbrushed these sparingly with Floquil 'Grimey Black'. The underframes were painted as above using Railroad Tie Brown, before attcking with powders. The floors were treated to a mix of red/orange and black.



I'm think I need to buy some other colours such as graphite, silver and smoke. I think the graphite would look good on the axle boxes and hopefully would give them that oily look. A mix of silver and graphite on any handrails (guards van) would possibly give them that polished look.

Well, there you go... only a few more wagons to go. It's easier starting on the wagons before the locos, me thinks ! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.





 

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Cheers Gary,

You've done a great job of these. I particularly like the first two. What a transformation. Worth waiting for.

Cheers

Toto

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They look excellent Gary. Well done, now only the coaches, dmu and engines to do. It's a very good idea practising on a wagon, especially say one of the dapol kit ones. if it all goes pearshaped you can always bin it.

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Nice job Gary;-)

 

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Lovely work Gary.

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Only last week I received a new backscene from Howards Scenic Supplies, as they had them on sale with 15% off normal retail price. I went for the 9" high backscene as the 15" high one does take up some height for such a small layout. This ID Backscenes, backscene is coded 107D 'Into The Town', although you do not see too much of the town...

Anyway, here are a few pics with the backscenes in place. I used one 1.5m section behind the platform and the other I used behind the Station Masters Cottage... Oh yes, before you ask, the backscene is not permantly fixed yet, as this allows for better pics with individual/different backgrounds.

















I'm still in two minds with the backscene behind the station. The first backscene I used in earlier pics looks much more natural. The layout won't have both backscenes, (front and back that is) during running sessions. I'm still undecided which is the best viewing position, either from behind the station side or from behind the cottage side... Hmmm ??

What do you think of the new backscene compared to the previous one ??

What side do you think the plank shoould be viewed from ??

This side..., the intentional side



or this side... Please disregard the non existant valance below the baseboard.



Cheers, Gary.








60019Bittern
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The intentional side works best for me Gary, especially if you had a low hedge or something to blend along the front of the backscene

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Hi Gary,

I agree, the first one looks better. Seems to be more of a seamless blend into the foreground.

The second one whilst ok, looks a little awkward for some reason. The back scene ( to me ) seems to be at a funny angle with the foreground. Maybe not explaining myself very well here.

Go with the first. Much more believable.

Cheers

Toto

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Intended side definitely. Those first photos really look the business. The ones from the other side just don't blend as well, like you say.

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Wot they all said!

Terry

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Hi Gary

I think the first backscene you used in the earlier pictures with the hills behind the station looked very good, as you say more natural.

However, using this one I have to disagree with the others as I think the second view is better to some extent. You don't see the point levers inside the cottage and you don't the have to worry about a backscene behind the station.

But...........

although the view to the left of the cottage looks 'spot on', the goods yard area then looks like it's in the middle of a farmer's field.

:hmm

Not being a lot of help really, am I :oops:


Ed




Last edited on Fri May 2nd, 2014 10:46 am by Ed

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After going backwards and forwards a few times i have to agree with Ed and go for the unintentional side,it seems to me to offer a more rounded view.The only thing then is that the coal staithes look the wrong way round.Whichever way you decide Gary it's still an exhibition piece.

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Hi Gary,

In the second image, the area to the right of the cottage, the farmers field are looks as if it is built on a plateau. The layout scenery and the backdrop don't seem to merge as good as the first image.

I wouldn't worry about point levers showing. If anything, it shows a little honesty. The viewers can see the operational side to it which is not always a bad thing. It gives an insight.

Either way it is still superb. It's your call at the end of the day.

Cheers

Toto

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Of the two I'd go for the intentional side. To my eye it looks the better of the two. But at the end of the day it's your choice Gary. Definitely exhibition quality.


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You're going to wish you hadn't asked :mutley:mutley:mutley

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Well, I'm glad I asked ! :mutley:mutley

Thankyou all for your input.

Considering I built the layout as viewed from the 'intentional side', I'll go with that. I think it will be a better talking piece with the viewers when the time comes to exhibit it, (too which I'm still waiting on a reply !) as it will allow people to see how it operates. I know what Toto means by not merging and the feilds being on a plateau. I have also got to agree with Ed in that the backscene used earlier looks better. I will say that when I first viewed the new backscene online, it looked as if it would 'fit' properly, but looking at it now, not really so. I also think that the sheds etc are too close to the foreground. Ho hum...!:roll: 

Anyone want to buy a one week old, but 2nd hand backscene... :mutley

Cheers, Gary.

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Hi Gary,

I think the correct decision has been made. Especially the " blending issue " and in general with regards to the issue of layout operators engaging with the public, I think that will also be encouraged by your decision.
I think you'll find it will be a great success and a popular, well visited exhibition piece.

Cheers

Toto

Now, what's next:mutley

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toto wrote: Now, what's next:mutley
Well, lets see... Did I tell you about the new plank I'm working on...??

Actually, I'm only joking ! I do have to draw up a plan for the alluminium frame/stand with folding legs for the plank. I'll be having two of these made up so that I can use them under Kelly Bray and any other layout/plank in the making... ;-);-)

Cheers, Gary.

 

Last edited on Fri May 2nd, 2014 03:27 pm by Gary

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Aha,

Now that your time has been freed. Up ( a bit ) you will not be able to resist the lure of another.:mrgreen:

Never a dull moment.

Cheers

Toto

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Well, we will see !

Tomorrow I'm selling off a few old car parts and that'll give me a little more cash to play with. (Any Australian members want to purchase a tired old Holden one toner, V8 auto on LPG ?? ;-);-)) Whether that'll be for rolling stock, locos, scenic materials, or Kelly Bray I don't know. It will pay for the stands to be welded up though. There is still a few things on Linden Ford to be done, such as the buffer stops, uncoupling ramps or undertrack magnets...

Not sure just yet, may just wait to see what Hattons have on sale ! :mutley

Cheers, Gary.

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Good Grief Gary !!!!
                   That scenery looks terrific......what a first class effort........it`s very atmospheric.
I think I`ll have to nominate you as my go to guy when I start doing scenery myself.
:Happy :Happy:doublethumb:cheers :nice

Cheers Gormo

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G'day Gormo,

Thanks for the plaudits ! ;-) You probably guessed that scenery is something I enjoy. Many years ago when building layouts with a late friend of mine (you would know of him..., baseboards), Murray spent a lot of time on the electrics, whereas I spent the time on the scenics. I will say that I have learnt a lot more regarding scenics from being on here, admiring all the great layouts, which has increased my attention to detail and overall quality.

Whenever you need a hand on your scenics, give me a holler. I'd be happy to lend a helping hand, or a word of advice.

Cheers, Gary.

 

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Hi Gary, nice touch with the backscene, it brings everything together and make things believable, lovely tree in the first picture, excellent job with it all but I have a nitpick, that porter with the big base....something's got to be done about that :lol:

 

Phil

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Agree about the scenery - yours looks fabulous. There are so many excellent examples on this forum. I am reading my way around before starting on Pig Hill!

Gary
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Thanks Mike. Scenery is something that you'll pick up no doubt. There are a variety of products on the shelf these days that make scenery making a lot easier. Remember when you had to dye your own sawdust for grass and use what ever sticks you found in the garden that looked ( termed very loosely) like trees ?? Plenty of materials now available and excellent quality. I like to use Nock, Mini Natur, Woodland Scenics, some Heki and also Jarvis do some good items. Not to forget the tree makers like K&M, although I enjoy making my own. 

Phil, you are absolutely correct regarding the bases below the figures feet ! They will be cleaned off, legs drilled and wire glued in, in good time. I haven't forgotten, just other things happening at the moment. Thanks for the kind words. Makes me feel good with comments from a 'master of minature' ! :thumbs

Cheers, Gary.

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Some great news arrived today via email. I have officially been invited to exhibit Linden Ford at the St Lukes Model Railway Exhibition on the 8th & 9th of November. Following a few emails to the exhibition managers, including some photos, and a couple of links to YMRC and that other forum (RMweb), they liked what they saw and are delighted to have me attend. One of the better aspects of this exhibition is this :

"Our show which has been going for nearly 30 years now is a little more relaxed than the big shows and we tend to focus more on smaller layouts that can be built and run at home. The exhibition hours are also slightly shorter than most which makes it a little easier to manage".

I'm looking foward to this.:Happy Woo hoo ! 

Cheers, Gary.

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Very well done :doublethumb


Just make sure you keep it safe and it doesn't get damaged between now and November.


Ed

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Excellent news Gary. ......... All good things come to he who waits. Also gives you plenty time to get the stand organised as well.

Well done

Toto

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Good luck with the show Gary and enjoy the day.:doublethumb

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Excellent news Gary, well done!

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Well done Gary. Hope it all goes well. You could always take along young Jack as an additional operater. I'd bet he'd love it.

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Congratulations Gary! :Happy Enjoy the experience.

Terry

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Congratulations, Gary.  :cheers

I've just been back to the start.  Humble beginnings.

We should Bookmark this thread as an inspirational reference for people starting out.

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Well done Gary! Much deserved indeed. Are you going to exhibit it 'as is', or do you have further plans between now and November?

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Well done Gary;-)

Phil

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Thankyou all for the kind replies. As you well know, I'll be looking foward to this.

This exhibition also encourages children to get involved with model railways. The children visiting the exhibition are handed a spotter sheet, where they have to identify certain aspects, on the layouts that are on show. So, with the exhibition proposal form, I have til fill in two questions about the layout for the children, one for under 8's and one for the 8-13 years. Now having children inspecting closely, I have to decide on what height the layout should be shown at. With the stand I'm building, it will raise the layout upto approximately 48", possibly too high for the children. If I use the collapsable trestle, the layout can be viewed by the children, at a respectable 30", probably not so good for the adults. 

Hmm, which way do I go ??

What I will encourage, is to let the paying attendees drive/shunt a train as well. This way I can engage with the people much more closely and hopefully, encourage model railways as a hobby, that doesn't have to be too technical.

Once again, thanks for the well wishes and encouragement. Now, where did I put that 'to do' list...??

Cheers, Gary.

 

60019Bittern
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You could compromise in the middle at 36 inches, or take along a couple of beer crates and a thick plank (although the health and softly man might not like that idea without added harness and safety rails).

Last edited on Wed May 7th, 2014 01:01 pm by 60019Bittern

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Great News Gary,
                       I hope it all goes well......that sounds like a very reasonable exhibition. You`ve still got plenty of time to get things in order and i`m sure you`ll sort that stand .
All the best
Gormo

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Ed wrote:Don't know what the hold up is Toto, he's only working on three layouts at the same time :mutley

Ed

What working on three layouts, well that's what Gary would lead us to believe. :mutley

Anyway have to agree with you Ed,
You would think that Gary would be more thoughtful towards his fellow Forum Members. :mutley:mutley:mutley






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Over the weekend I had been thinking of a good way of supporting the layout. I wanted something lightweight, something reasonable sturdy, something that I could seperate from the layout itself. I had also been thinking of folding legs which actually fold up into the base/frame of the layout. Problem was that the back of the layouts baseboard only had minimal length of timber supporting it, unlike the front.

So, out in the garage I have some alluminium that I intend using for Kelly Bray (in good time...), and some thinner alluminium rectangular tubing with holes drilled through them at the mid point and the ends. This got me thinking :shock:... Ok, if I purchase some 600mm lengths of 3/8" booker rod, some washers, bolts, nuts and Nylock nuts, nothing is going to stop me !

The booker rod was cut down to 450mm to fit in under the width of the baseboard framing. To this is threaded on some nuts and connected to each end of the alluminium tubing. Making a narrower frame the same, this fitted inside the first frame and they were bolted together in a scissor fashion.

Here it is against a wall, all folded up... The timber piece shown is the brace for standing the frame up with. Note the notche 1" from the top and there is one at the bottom as well, although hard to see.



The frame easily folds out and using the timber brace, it holds the frame without it collapsing. It looks as if the bottom is narrower than the top, but I can assure you that this is just an illusion.



...and one of the layout sitting on top.



The frame slips in under and between th baseboard frame. It is reasonably sturdy, but I will hopefully be exhibiting this against a wall. The top of the layout is a respectable 3' high, suitable for the children and adults. ;-)

A simple, lightweight solution that is very portable. And yes, the frame and the layout fits neatly across the back seat of my car.

Cheers, Gary.




 

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Nice simple solution Gary :thumbs

Just wondering if you need something to lock the wooden brace to the frame, just in case someone manages to knock it with their foot.


Ed

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Bravo! 
... and Ed, I was thinking the same thing. Gaffa tape!

Last edited on Mon May 12th, 2014 12:21 pm by Marty

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Looks really good Gary. Well done. When it's not in use for the layout the good lady can use it as an ironing board with a suitable top.

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With a few concerns mentioned about the timber brace being knocked out, this isn't a problem. The brace was made up to help me place the baseboard on the scissor stand, single handedly, without it collapsing. The top points/extremities of the stand are held in by blocks on the underside of the baseboard. Basically, gravity holds it all in place once all has been assembled, I can then remove the brace. The timber brace is 3 1/2" in from the outside ends of the baseboard.

This diagram will explain it easier !



Cheers, Gary.

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Now why didn't we know you would of already thought of that. :pathead

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Spurno wrote: Now why didn't we know you would of already thought of that. :pathead

Yup, should've guessed ;-)


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Hi Gary,

Very well thought out. Looks like it makes for a very quick set up time.ideal and the fact that it can be done single handed is even better. I get the feeling that you won't go short of volunteers to assist though.

Well done once again.

Toto

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Brilliant! :thumbs

Terry

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toto wrote: I get the feeling that you won't go short of volunteers to assist though.
What are you doing on the 7th, 8th and 9th of November...?? ;-);-)

Cheers, Gary.

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Probably sitting at home waiting for the latest competition photo's being beamed over from Oz. Don't forget the best layout on the day photo.

Unless I win the lottery of course then I'll take a jaunt over for the weekend ....... Or month. :mrgreen:

I' thinking Jack will have all the bases covered there somehow. Dad will be too busy explaining how it was done and collecting the prizes.

I seen Phil's magazine debut. Excellent. I think you need a bit of international coverage......... The next challenge, I'm sure the magazines would be more than interested. Especially if their roving reporters get the chance of a quick visit to oz.

:hmm

Cheers

Toto

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G`day Gary,
                What can I say about that stand.?????........it`s a simple, elegant solution......we all knew you would work out something ingenious.
               Well Done Again....:Happy:Happy:Happy:Happy
Cheers Gormo

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A little progress has been made with Linden Ford over the last weekend, this time the back scenic board. I decided to cover the sides as well as the back with the backscene, as I think it looks better. This will hopefully stop little fingers grabbing at the layout and all the delicate bits and bobs. What a PITA it is to secure the backscene neatly to three walls with wall paper paste... :twisted::twisted::twisted: Anyway, I got there in the end. Perserverance does pay out occassionally...! ;-)



The front valance will need to be painted as well as the outside of the backscene. I will have to secure a small shelf onto the front for the controller,as it needs to sit somewhere, securely. This way my left hand can controll the throttle whilst my right hand throws points !

I have just ordered from flea bay some strip LED lighting.

See here ; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300CM-12V-5630-Cold-White-36LED-M-Hard-LED-Light-Super-Bright-LED-Bar-Strip-Lamp/161081622661?_trksid=p2046732.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D7008698571424245056%26pid%3D100040%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D251506388168%26

I will build a light weight alluminium frame that extends up and across the layout and down the other side, carrying two of these strips. Being 12V, I should be able to run these off the 12V AC on the controller, or possibly a second older controller/transformer.

Well, that's it for now, but here's a couple of black & white scenery pics with 'no trains'...











Personally, I think black and white photography gives an 'age and era' to the place. Hope you enjoyed !

Cheers, Gary.








 

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Black and whites' are my favourites Gary,they convey something that colour just can't.

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Agree - the b&w looks wonderful. It is a beautiful layout, Gary. It will be a success at the show, for certain.

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It looks brilliant Gary, and that backscene really brings it all together nicely. Like the 'old style' pics too. Sometimes I think we get too involved in colour (especially which green is the best).
Regards
Mick

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Gary said, "I decided to cover the sides as well as the back with the backscene, as I think it looks better. This will hopefully stop little fingers grabbing at the layout and all the delicate bits and bobs."

I think that it is the big fingers you will more likely have a problem with! 

Terry

Last edited on Mon May 19th, 2014 10:23 pm by col.stephens

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Hi Gary,

I think Terry is right. You'll need eyes in the back of your head. The one good thing is that the layout is not " stock heavy " . You may only change you loco every now and again for a bit of variety and I would imagine that it's the loco's and lift able goods that the larger fingers are after.

The wee ones, well, whilst it is nice to let them touch when supervised, they still need to realise how delicate these items are and they are not toys.

My strategy would be that if there are some kids who are a bit over eager, I think I would maybe invite them for a controlled demo which may take the risk of just touching away. If you are brave enough to let them have a go, maybe a small demarcation barrier would be handy then any trainee train drives could be invited round one by one.

You could of course just take a very fierce dog with you. :mutley

Hopefully it won't be to trying.

Toto

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Take a taser with you and zap em' if they get close.Kids,i love em',couldn't eat a whole one though.:pedal:mutley:mutley:mutley

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Gary, what camera are you using?

Phil

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Hi Phil,

It is just a cheap $50.00 Nikon Coolpix L25, with 5 x zoom. I alter the pics from colour to B&W on the computer.

Cheers, Gary.

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Gary,

 

I see that there is no focusing or metering options on it, so it is very limited. If you could at least focus, it's possible for example to take three shots,  foreground, middle and far distance and edit them in PS CS3 which is free. That way you will get everything in focus.

Seeing how modelling is a big part of your life I think you owe it to yourself to get a good camera as you need to show off your excellent work to it's best ;-)

 

This is excellent,   http://www.amazon.co.uk/Canon-PowerShot-Sensitivity-Vari-angle-Purecolor/dp/B0042RUAPC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1400664751&sr=8-2&keywords=canon+g12+powershot it also has a vari-angle screen ideal for those awkward places, I haven't got one yet but Chris Nevard took some of Pen y Bryn in Model Rail mag with one.

 

Phil

Last edited on Wed May 21st, 2014 01:35 pm by Phil.c

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Gary, the coloured shot is good, but, it's the black and white pictures that do it for me. Well done!

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Thanks for the comments regarding the black & white pics. Would be nice to have a decent camera, but funds don't allow for that !

Anyway, the funds that I do have are better spent on motive power ! The new arrival, which was on my door step this morning is a Bachmann Class 08, in black livery. I do like the green livery, but I thought I would opt to something different...






I decided to purchase this as the Class 08 I do have looks quite simple compared to this, considering the old Triang model is over 40 odd years old ! I'm quite pleased with this model and now it's time to give her a run in on Jack's layout !

Cheers, Gary.


Last edited on Tue May 27th, 2014 11:45 am by Gary

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Looks good Gary...a dusting over with some weather maybe!

 

Phil

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The class 08 looks very nice and very new, bit of weathering will do the trick though, having seen your work from past threads, it's bound to look the business when you've finished! 

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We have lights...!

Well, sort of. I had my delivery of the led strip lights arrive today. Three metres of lighting for a tad over $13.00Au (£7.50) ain't a bad price, which included free postage from China ! As can be seen in the pic below, the strip lights come in rows of three, 50cm long, multiplied by two. At each end there are connectors so that a series can be joined up lengthways or whichever way you decide.



The little connectors above simply snap together. I have not divided the individual strips yet as I wish to see how much light these little leds' throw out.



There are 36 individual LEDs per 50cm length. As can be seen in the next pic, they do indeed throw out some light...



This is only one row (centre row of three) emitting plenty of light over the layout. I did connect all three rows together in a series and I can tell you when I switched them on, I was blinded ! :cool: 

I intend to run only one strip glued to an alluminium frame that sits 6-8" above the layout. This way I won't get the bright wash out on the ends of the back scene. Being only 12v, they will be run off an older transformer/controller, which will allow me to dim the lights if needed. I am even thinking of putting some up above my work bench as it certainly beats the halogen lamp I have.

The next test is to see how long they can be left on for...:hmm ...and if they do go out or fizzle out, atleast I'll have four more lengths to replace them with. Like I mentioned earlier, at approx. £7.50, they are as cheap as chips, but do an excellent job !

Cheers, Gary.


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They look great Gary. I will invest in some of these myself. Not least as a desk light - they seem perfect. Just need some kind of support for them in that case. I'll be interested to see how long they last, like you say, so do keep us posted.

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They certainly look the part Gary. Could be useful in display cabinets too. Price was more than reasonable. Good luck with the tests anyway. An diffuser from a old fluorescent light may help spread the light rather than concentrating it.

Last edited on Fri May 30th, 2014 05:19 pm by 60019Bittern

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Hi Gary,

Looks the business. The layout looks really good. As you say, once the lights are raised that bit it will get rid of the side lighting.

Excellent job.

Cheers

Toto

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Good news ! I ran the 'cheap Chinese LED strips' today for a good 10 1/2 hours with no problem at all.

                                            :doublethumb  :doublethumb  :doublethumb  :doublethumb          

Cheers, Gary.

 

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Hi Gary,

That's Velly good news about the rights.

Toto:mutley

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Gary wrote: Good news ! I ran the 'cheap Chinese LED strips' today for a good 10 1/2 hours with no problem at all.

                                            :doublethumb  :doublethumb  :doublethumb  :doublethumb          

Cheers, Gary.

 



Well until you get your next power bill......:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley

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Brilliant Gary (no pun intended) :thumbs and I think you may have just found a solution for my dark corner of the garage problem.


Ed

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Hi Gary, Just finished catching up on this thread and I must agree with all the comments that have gone before. They say that good things come in small packages.. All I can say is this is a "Little beauty ". Hope you have a great time at the exhibition and I take it you will have some flyers with you shamelessly promoting this great club ? And pointing to this thread. Its a masterclass in how to get started in our hobby ,and one of the best "step by step" guides I thing I've seen !

Thanks for some great inspiration


Cheers


Matt

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Thankyou Matt !

I'm hoping that some will benefit from the 'how to' approach I took with the layout. As for promoting the Club, I have spoken to the hierarchy (Spurno) about advertising the club and he is all for it. I'm having a 1200mm x 600mm banner made up which will hang off the front of the layout.

Something like this...


Cheers, Gary.

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Good one, Gary.  :thumbs
Usually a Club gets its website after it forms, not before.   :mutley

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That looks fantastic Gary.Thank you for all your efforts in promoting YMRC.

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Well done Gary. The more people know of the group the better.

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With that banner, your great layout, and you as ambassador, I'm sure we will be seeing some new members logging in. 
       Definitely on to a winner
          Cheers. Matt:Happy:Happy:Happy

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Hi Gary, I like the banner, nice job you've done. That will hopefully bring in more new members to the club.
Good luck with the exhibition!




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Good On You Gary,
          That`s a great idea for the banner......watch out for the rush of new members.
   I like your strip lights too.......they would be good up under baseboards which cover hidden track or sidings. They would not restrict the access and also they would light up the area significantly so that maintenance could be carried out more easily.........well done !!!
   Is their length a fixed quantity because of voltage requirements or can they be shortened or indeed do they come in shorter lengths...??????
:cheers  Gormo

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Thanks for the rap ! Not only is it promoting YMRC, it is promoting and showcasing all the great talents we have in the club ! Hopefully visitors to the exhibition will go home and search YMR out. Perhaps a few flyers or cards would be handy as well, to detail what the club is about...

Gormo, the lights can be connected to the full 3m length or used as a 50cm length. I ran two lengths joined together for the 10 1/2hrs on about 8-9volts from an old Kenbrite transformer/controller (the controller that once came with Tyco trainsets). I previously connected all 6 lengths together in a series and they also worked well, although not for 10 1/2 hours !

If you have a look at the 2nd pic in post 242, you will see that there are 12 individual 42mm sections, each containing 3 LEDs and 4 soldering tabs (2 at each end, +&;-). I would be positive to say that a single length could be cut up into the 12 individual lengths and then rewired accordingly. In your hidden sidings, you could possibly use one 42mm section every 300mm, connecting them with some thin gauge wire.

Cheers, Gary.

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Hhmmm..???? food for thought there Gary  :hmm........Thank you
:cheers   Gormo

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Hi Gary, If you had the time to sort some flyers ,A5 or smaller so its easy to fold and shove in a pocket or even business card size ? . I know when going round craft shows years ago with Swmbo I could never remember web addresses etc so would pick up a flyer or card If one was available. If it had a picture on it of a train the young visitors would love them as well. I'm sure you and Spurno could come up with something suitable between you  and if some templates (A4, A5, Picture, non picture,business card) were posted somewhere on the site it would mean any of us who wanted could print off and hand out " pre approved" promotional material . Not that I want to put your good self to any added costs mind !. Just think it might be an idea to take forward.
      Cheers
          Matt

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MaxSouthOz wrote: Good one, Gary.  :thumbs
Usually a Club gets its website after it forms, not before.   :mutley

  That's a point...club...where's the Members bar ??? :mrgreen:

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Looks good Gary :thumbs

but I gotta ask, what then is an 'unhealthy model railway' :mutley


Ed

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Ed wrote: but I gotta ask, what then is an 'unhealthy model railway' :mutley


Ed




One where you run Class 37's with plenty of clag !  :mutley:mutley 

See here ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXkPXOpeyX4  :shock: 

and here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcKzpKeMkVo  :shock::shock:

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Tue Jun 3rd, 2014 12:04 pm by Gary

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CRIKEY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:hmm   Gormo

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gormo wrote: CRIKEY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:hmm   Gormo

That is an UNDERSTATEMENT indeed.

Dirty beasts, they are !!!!!!!!

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When I was very young and bemoaning the demise of Steam, I remember my late father saying diesels were cleaner :hmm


Anyway, back to the plot.  Where is the member's bar quest:



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Ed wrote: When I was very young and bemoaning the demise of Steam, I remember my late father saying diesels were cleaner :hmm






Only for the driver!  


Jeff


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I have been putting the lighting rig together over the last few days. Using the same alluminium rectangular tube I used to construct the folding legs from, a few brackets and some small nuts & bolts, this is how the whole rig came out.



The frame is 60cm high, but I think it needs to come down atleast 10-15cm. The wires you see will be hidden behind the frame. The next job is to frame the edges of the backscene with some 18mm x 8mm dressed timber I have, then I will paint the exterior black, including the baseboard.

This is a pic I took without using the flash on the camera. These LED strips are ideal !



Whilst out at the 2014 Epping Model Railway Exhibition today, I picked up a few second hand wagons, although in very good condition. I was impressed with the GWR Horse Box wagon (yes, that's right, I did write GWR :oops:), at only $6.00 (£3.35). Ok, it is the older tooling, but there was one there for over twice the price ! With a little weathering, these wagons should come up a treat.



Pictures of the 2014 Epping Exhibition are on another thread.

Cheers, Gary.



 

Last edited on Sat Jun 7th, 2014 11:53 am by Gary

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Reckon you've got a bargain there Gary, even if it is a green, wet and rusty :mutley

I've just noticed the original comment you made when starting this was "Small shunting plank for fun....." and it now will be an exhibition layout.

 Makes me wonder what on earth you would come up with if you were asked to actually build an exhibition layout.

Well done again.


Ed

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If that's the Lima horsebox, then it's pretty accurate.

But, they've got the underframe detail back to front!






If you reverse the body it's closer, but then the foot-

steps are wrong, so it's a lot easier to re-position the

cylinders, etc.






Glazing the windows improves it no end.






Jeff

Last edited on Sat Jun 7th, 2014 12:34 pm by jcm@gwr

MaxSouthOz
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Looks like you've sorted the shadows, Gary.  :thumbs

Phil.c
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Hi Gary, those lights look like their doing a good job ;-)

 

Good pics, but you have to invest in that G12 :lol:

 

Phil

Gary
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Since last weekend, I have fixed the backscene to the layout and lowered and fixed the lights to the layout. The biggest change is the disguised uncouplers I have installed on the layout. I didn't want to run with the usual 'highly visible' uncoupling ramps, so I took a leaf from another modeller, not from this parish, but I did provide a link on Gormo's thread (see here http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=11121&forum_id=21&page=32#p220126 ).

This is a very simple, manually controlled system that works quite well.



Above, the barrow crossing disguising the tension lock uncoupler and below, the clearance of the coupler tail over the planks.



Below, raising the barrow crossing/uncoupler to the up position to lift the tails of the tension lock couplers on the loco and wagon.



Below, the loco can now reverse back leaving the wagon behind. The uncoupler just drops back into position and resumes as a barrow crossing.



Below, under the uncoupler and through the track/baseboard. This 08 definately needs to be weathered, far too clean !



Here is a short video of the uncoupler in operation..



I have also photographed some wagons, printed them and stuck them to cards. This will be useful when shunting the layout. Pick 4 cards out of the 11 shown and shunt these chosen wagons to form a train ! Eventually I'll print off a few more wagons. The pic is not the best, but they recognisable, especially considering they will be on the layout, perhaps not all of them but a few !!



Cheers, Gary.







Last edited on Sat Jun 14th, 2014 05:37 pm by Gary

toto
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Hi Gary,

You've done a great job of these uncouplers and they are technology proof, even better. I think that I could even manage to build some form of the same. Now there is a statement. I did not get the video link but never mind, I know the link that you posted to Gormo works ok and have viewed that.

The cards are a great idea. I have seen a very convoluted version of the same somewhere on another layout where these cards are used to provide a shunting order with a dispatch system around the layout to various locations stating where to pick up and drop off. Gives a sense of purpose to the running of the trains in the first place. Excellent idea.

Some kind of separate display explaining the engines " duty roster" standing to the side of the layout would be a good idea for those watching at exhibitions. It would help them to understand and anticipate what was going to happen. Ok another piece of kit to carry around I suppose but would certainly be helpful to the uninitiated.

Cheers

Toto

jimmy styles
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I really like that way of uncoupling I may need to use that idea on my harbour layout. How do you control the motion

Jim

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Excellent uncoupling method there. I am opting for the neodynium magnets approach I read about elsewhere on the forum, but not tackled that one yet! I can't help feeling that yours is a more simple, elegant approach. And I like the card idea.. It has always been my intention to print cards with waggon photos on to operate Pig Hill. I am going to build a small card shelf on the front of the facia for the boys to select the 5 cards and display them as a visual cue as to what train they need to make up on the Inglenook. Happy Shunting!

toto
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Hi Mike,

I'm with you. If your wagons are already dispersed throughout the layout and you pick say five at random, that will determine the operation for the train. You would also need some system of determining the order in which they are picked up etc. It creates far more interest than just aimlessly running around the layout and opens up other movements for other loco's etc.

For me, there is just the small matter of getting the layout operational. :mutley

Cheers

Toto

Gary
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Ok, here a few pics showing the simplicity of this uncoupling method.

Below : This is the handle/pivot/actuator arm. Made from brass rod and brass rectangular tube. Two keeper plates were soldered to the verticle rod to help hold it in place.



Below : Under the baseboard. After drilling the track/baseboard to take the styrene tube, timber blocks were also drilled out. The tube was glued into the blocks and whilst still wet, they were glued to the base of the board. This enabled me to determine the height of the tube at sleeper level. You can see the 'stoppers' soldered onto the verticle actuator.



Below : The 'handle end' outside of the baseboard frame. Some sticky backed foam was stuck onrto the handles to prevent injuries ! Note the appropriate signage... this will be replaced with proper signage after the baseboard and backscene boards are painted black.



Here is a simple sketch to show the workings.




For those who cannot see the video ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClV2Kj_PcEs  Hopefully this will work.

Cheers, Gary.



toto
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Hi Gary,

Checked out the link ........ Works a treat. A very good system.

Cheers

Toto

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I like your uncoupler Gary. Simple, does the job and cost effective, does it for me. Do they still make and sell metal coat hangers?

Gary
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Hi Barney,

I do know that metal coat hangers are still available in Australia, in your part of the world, I wouldn't know! ;-)

If you intend making some of these up for your layout, I would not use coat hanger wire as it is too thin and it will flex/bow under some pressure. I used 3.17mm (1/8th)diameter brass rod and the uncouplers that are the furthest away, I had to increase the diameter of the rod to 4.76mm (3/16th), as the 3.14mm diameter rod flexed far too much, when operated, resulting in the actuator/uncoupling plate not lifting. The actuator rod to the uncoupling plate is also 3.17mm diamtere. The trials and tribulations...

Cheers, Gary.

60019Bittern
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Try your local charity sharp Barney. They normally have loads knocking about.

Barneybuffer
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Thanks Gary,

I'll have to check the procurement department and open the test and development bay to see what's available and what works best!





Mick wrote:

"Try your local charity sharp Barney. They normally have loads knocking about".


Well with the number of charity shops we have down the high street, I should have some luck then.





Thanks guy's










Last edited on Sun Jun 15th, 2014 06:32 pm by Barneybuffer

Gary
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Well, all the timber trim has been added to the backscene boards and the paint on the exterior and the baseboard has finally dried. Black don't look to bad at all. I still need to conceal the wiring for the lights, which are still just taped on with strips of electrical tape. I think I'll end up using double sided tape for these LED strips do not weigh all that much. The LEDs don't generate enough heat, so I doubt that the double sided tape will be affected by what little heat is generated.

This is how the layout will be presented at the exhibition, minus the banner. That's another job.



and the Linden Ford totem...



The totems were copied from google images, then using 'paint' I filled the centre with green and printed the name Linden Ford in. I then enlarged the copy (hence the pixilated edges), printed two off, cut and glued them to the front facia.

A few odd jobs still to do, mostly detailing the layout. I need to order a few more animals from Dart Castings, remove all the little peoples base plates below their feet, maybe some more rail side fencing, a few more bushes, touch up the grass etc etc...

Cheers, Gary.


mattc6911
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60019Bittern wrote: Try your local charity sharp Barney. They normally have loads knocking about.    You should check out granny's wardrobe, if your lucky you will find a much sturdier type of wire coat hanger
  They don't make em like they used to ! 
 Failing that "feel"  your way through the charity shop clothes racks looking for the older thicker ones , ( tell the staff what your looking for first or they look at you funny ) and its worth asking if they have any older ones hidden out the back
    Cheers Matt

60019Bittern
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If you can't find any wire coat hangers try the local bike shop for spokes, especially if he's had a battered wheel in for repair, they might be free then.

mattc6911
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Hmmmm good thought :twisted: suppose me putting bricks across our lane to catch the local bike club taking thier usuall short cut on Saturday is not allowed ??

mattc6911
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Hey ! They are fair game :lol: I see them every Saturday doing the 10 mile square dance and more than one nips down our lane and hides in the bushes at the bottom waiting for the pack to return, which cuts about 8 miles off the 10

mattc6911
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Sorry Gary ,wandering off topic,  layout is looking great BTW
Cheers
 Matt

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Hi Gary,

I am just looking at your latest pictures of Linden Ford. The lighting is throwing a real heavy blue cast over the layout. I suspect the LED's are brilliant white. May it not be better with a warmer LED to throw a warmer cast over the scene.

The layout is a country scene and looks very Rural / homely but the lighting brings a real cold feeling about it. Don't want to be negative it may just be the way the picture is.

Cheers

Toto

Gary
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Hi Toto,

I know what you mean by the blue saturation over the pic. I did turn off the main light in the room so that I could highlight the layout, probably not the best idea ! Although, I will say in normal viewing conditions, this blue hue doesn't exist. I have just adjusted the pics colour and exposure and it has come up way better.

What do you think ??



Cheers, Gary.


 

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Ahhhhhhhhhh ............ Back to soothing. :mutley I can put the winter woolies away again.:mutley

My apologies. The cast was strong and I knew the layout was full of naturally warm colours. Still, the big day will see it as it's meant to be.

Panic off.

Cheers

Toto

Gary
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...and we down under are getting our winter woolies out ! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

60019Bittern
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The layout looks brilliant Gary. Well done. Good luck with the show when the time comes. It should knock-em dead.

Gary
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Thanks Mick !

Hopefully it won't 'knock-em dead', otherwise I may not get an invite back ! :mutley:mutley

Cheers, Gary.

emmess
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The layout looks excellent, and it will go down well at the show - especially since you're going to be letting the great unwashed get their hands on the controls! My boys would LOVE that!

Regarding the lighting on the picture - the LEDs will have a different light temperature than the rest of the room. Your eyes adjust naturally, but cameras sometimes struggle. If your camera has a white balance control, try playing with that until you get the balance back into the warmer hues.

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G`day Gary,
               I`ve just been catching up with your thread.....especially the black paint. It looks great !!
:doublethumb:doublethumb:doublethumb:doublethumb

               I do like your uncoupling system as well. Such a simple solution and the barrow crossing looks great. You would never know the uncoupler was there.
               The beauty of a system like that, is when it`s being exhibited, at least you know it won`t fail because a speck of something got in there and there are no electrical connections to worry about. It`s bombproof and that`s important when exhibiting. 
  Well done mate !!
:cheers   Gormo


Last edited on Thu Jun 26th, 2014 02:57 pm by gormo

Gary
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Hi Gormo,

Thankyou for the kind comments.

You are right about the uncouplers being simple and I'm hoping they won't cause any dramas in the long run. Anything that has no wires running to it, certainly does reduce the risk of failure.  When/if I build another (exhibition) layout, it will be Kadee couplers on the rollingstock and undertrack magnets for uncoupling. One thing I do need to do prior to the exhibition, is to purchase a bottle of 'Liquid Gravity' and weigh the rollingstock down more. I have noticed that some wagons tend to lift a little whilst uncoupling, very unprototypical !

Cheers, Gary.

gormo
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G`day Gary,

                 Is there any chance that the uncoupler is catching the wagon axle on the way up or in fact possibly lifting a little too high??... I have noticed also with tension locks that you do get variations in them. I have some Hornby Railroad wagons where the vertical dropper on the coupler (ie the part that makes contact with the uncoupling ramp ) is actually a bit shorter than most. Consequently the coupling will not lift as much as a Mainline wagon for example ,when you pass it over the ramp. So one coupler is all the way up and the other is not quite there, if you`ve mixed your stock. Because one coupling is effectively still hooked onto the other, the ramp will lift the wagon

              I have a mixture of stock from various manufacturers, and even though they couple OK when mixed together, they don`t always uncouple effectively.  I think in that situation, the only way forward is to standardize the couplings or to move over to Kadees as you have mentioned. At least then you have control over the situation, because you can set your own standards regardless of the coupling system you use.

              In my opinion the only system to date ,that seems to give consistent results with tension locks, is that one you`ve probably seen with the magnets and staples. Both couplers, regardless of brand, will lift to their full extent, once over the magnets. And yes, I`ve tried it !!

               I just don`t know whether I could face fitting the staples to all of my rolling stock  :hmm

:cheers   Gormo



Last edited on Thu Jun 26th, 2014 05:02 pm by gormo

Gary
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Hi Gormo,

You are correct in saying that the different manufacturers dropper heights are different on their couplers. Prior to building these uncouplers, I measured and remeasured to make sure the uncoupling plate (ramp) would not foul on the axles. You know what I mean, measure twice, cut once ! Some of the risers I made up have a stopper plate underneath, to stop the ramp from rising too far. I think the front two uncouplers need to have this modification. I think one way around this lifting is to remove a coupling hook off one end of each wagon, apart from the guards vans and locos. What I may have to do though, is have the odd wagon where one coupler is of the new small coupler and the other either medium or large tension lock, similar to what other modellers do with tension lock/kadee on one wagon.

Cheers, Gary.

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G`day Gary,
                  Yes I think you may have the easiest solution there in removing one coupling hook from each wagon. It`s early days for you exhibiting, but obviously you need something reliable, because you don`t want to be reaching over and uncoupling by hand.
                  I have been racking my brain for years to try and work out an automated system for three link couplings because they look great. So far the only idea is no idea. I have seen 3 links used at exhibitions and the operator just leans over with his little wire hook and uncouples. Actually, it doesn`t seem that bad to watch.....I seemed to accept that was how it was done. 
                Anyway the removal of the hooks will probably sort out the lifting.......so press on and see how it goes.
:cheers   Gormo

Gary
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Hello again,

Got home this afternoon and had a small package waiting for me... Little detail extras !



A few platform seats (benches), luggage barrows, point levers, station cats, local dogs and some loco crew !

Now, I haven't done much with 'white metal' figures etc, do I need to prime these first, before painting ??

Cheers, Gary.

gormo
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G`day Gary,
                That`s a good selection of figures etc......should look great on your railway. I found this link on a Google search re painting white metal figures. It may be of some help. I have not painted any myself.

   http://www.elgrecominiatures.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d131.html

:cheers  Gormo

Gary
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Thanks Gormo, interesting read.

Cheers, Gary.

60019Bittern
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Hi Gary. I would prime them first, gives something for the paint to grip to. It also shows up any flash lines etc. Good luck with them anyway.

Gary
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Hello again...

Decided to crack on with the Shire Scenes seats and barrows today. I have never piece together brass kits before and I can tell you they are quite fiddly. I think to get the best out of brass kits is to have one of thse bending jigs you see for quite a few $$$.

Anyway a few pics of the seats coming together.



^ The legs, bench laterals and seat backs. The legs still need trimming and filing.



^ Soldering the legs using a length of timber with 3 holes drilled to drop the back supports into. The pins just hold everything in place during this process. The middle leg bracket is soldered first then the whole lot turn 90* and the outer legs soldered on. The 3rd hole is hidden behind the pin head in the foreground. Black arrows mark the holes.



^ All soldered up just waiting a wash then paint. Below is the seats on the platform being occupied by a couple of locals.



The other project I went on with were with the animals, dogs, cat and cows. Even though I had cows on the layout, I decided to take a leaf out of Nick's book (Much Murkle) and de-horn and repaint the beasts. Two dogs were also painted as well as a cat. All these were then glued in there place. The cat and dogs are the offerings from Dart Castings and the cows are Modelscene.



^ The goods shed dog, 'Bear' sitting on the sheds deck. Wonder what has caught his eye...?



^ Ofcourse, the Station cat, Charlie.



^ The second dog 'Fetch', being walking with his loyal owner. A few cows in the paddock has caught his eyes.

Cheers, Gary.







 

60019Bittern
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Looking good Gary. I love the expression of Bear's face. Keep it coming.

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Hi Gary,

looking good as always. The couple on the bench is particularly good. keep up the good work.


toto

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Yesterday I decided to get stuck into some 'fencing', no, not the sword type, but the timber type...:roll:... The area near the cattle dock needed some more fencing as well as a lineside fence from the ground frame back to the railway crossing.

First up, the cattle dock area. This is the Peco lineside fence, prepared and painted like the previous fence earlier in the thread. Some vines/climbers scambering on the laterals and weeds at the base finish it off.



and from the other side of the fence...



The new lineside fence from the ground frame to the railway crossing. Once again, I used the same technique (used previously)to scratchbuild this fence.





^ I need to purchase some "No Trespassing, Offenders Will Be Prosecuted' signs for the ground frame and rail side. I also need to do something in this space around the ground frame. Suggestions welcome !

...and a few scenery/cameo pics...



Lucky for me, no trains today...



^ 'Having a chat'. The farm hand of the Station Masters residence chats with one of the locals. Fetch looks on, although eager to get home for some grub...



^ "One day, I'll own this..."   Now only if I could get a dog 'cocking' its leg...! ;-)

Next job on the list is to install the last two buffer stops on the goods yard and platform roads. A little tidy up is also required on the end of the platform, also to keep removing the 'figures' base plates. I'd better get stuck into it then...

Cheers, Gary.







60019Bittern
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Looking good Gary. I think someone does do a dog cocking its leg up (Langley models do a pack of about 5 dogs, one with leg cocked) Ref No. F63. They also do another of 6 unsorted breeds one with leg up Ref No. F66

Last edited on Mon Jul 28th, 2014 12:04 pm by 60019Bittern

toto
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Looking really good Gary. All these little details make the scene. Careful with the dogs though ......... We don't want any cock ups.:mutley

Cheers

Toto

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Hiya Gary looking great !. How about a bit more fencing and some sheep in that area ? Then you could have a sheepdog :)

Or possibly a traction engine pulling some farm equipment on a trailer ? ,loads of kit bashing or scratch building potential there .scout camp ? That's me out of ideas for now lol

60019Bittern
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Found these on Google Gary. You could print your own. You will have to scale them down a bit though.


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Small lumber yard ? That would be nice and rustic. I know, Small lumber yard with a traction engine pulling a trailer with logs on..and a retired sheep dog as as yard dog. There, that's got everything !  :)

col.stephens
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Nice work Gary. :thumbs

Have a look here for trespass signs:

http://www.sankeyscenics.co.uk/#

Terry

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Hi Terry,

Nice to see Poppy Lane on the Sankey Scenics web site ! :thumbs

Only last night I was looking at their range and tonight you have prompted me. Three packs of signs are now on there way !

Now, for that vacant area on the layout, rather than go for a timber merchant (thanks for the idea Matt), I'm thinking of a small 'fresh produce' van/cart. Afterall, Linden Ford is known for thei fresh eggs and produce !

Something that will look similar to this ; http://www.dreamstime.com/stock-image-roadside-produce-cart-image10707331

Cheers, Gary.

edit... Just found this ; https://www.flickr.com/photos/12150532@N04/7420898178/

Last edited on Wed Jul 30th, 2014 02:26 pm by Gary

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Hi Gary,

I like the fruit and veg stall. It looks really good and an ideal country market type stall.

Toto

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I cut up and glued some card together tonight, just to see how the mock-up will sit on the layout. The stall is 12' x 10' and 8' high at the front, 7' high at the back and the front bench set at 3' high. Personally, I'm thinking that the stall is too deep. The height and width seems to look ok.



To give it that bedded in feel, I will run some vines (pumpkin ??) up over the back of the roof and surround the back with bushes, weeds etc.

The front window (blacked out section) will be open and a door/entrance on one of the sides. Boxes of fresh produce will adorn the two benches. Comments welcomed.

Cheers, Gary.

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The fruit and veg stall is a great idea Gary and fits the "sleepy rural " scene perfectly ! Ummmmmm no dog though ? :mrgreen:    Think your right about the depth ,unless you could make it look as though the back is storage with a stall/shop area at the front. This might make it to big for the location though or maybe cut back the side walls and move the front wall back a bit further under the roof to make more of a canopy over the front shelf. That might help the proportions.
 Great idea though  looking forward to the finished produce.   I mean product
 Cheers. Matt

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There's a lot of good looking vignettes here, good stuff.  :doublethumb

I did notice that you might have got just a tad too much solder on your seats.  One thing I've always done, although it does add time is to slice off a tiny amount of solder with my knife and pick that up with the iron.  It helps me to control the amount of solder going on the work.

John

 

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Great tip there John. Something I did do after soldering the parts together was to run a small jewellers file over the excess solder. It did clean them up plenty, but I do like your technique. Certainly beats having a 'large blob' of solder on the iron tip.

Tonight I have started on the Produce stall. Using Evergreen Styrene weatherboard, flat sheet, strips, North Eastern Lumber and the interior from the Scalescenes 'Small Goods Store' kit, I have glued this up, so far...



^ The stall and roof section. Small strips of styrene have been glued to the underside of the roof piece as well as some thin strips around the edge as bargeboards.

Below. North Eastern Lumber has been painted a dirty grey colour, cut to length and glued to the inside as wall studs. The weatherboard has also been given a rough brush over with the same dirty grey.



Below, the roof fits snuggly on top. I have covered the roof panel with corrugated iron.



Next step will  be the benches/tables inside and out, followed by crates of produce, paint, signage etc.

Cheers, Gary.



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Hi Gary,

As usual it looks the business. Really delicate stuff as well but all seams to align perfectly, testament to your workmanship and accuracy.

I'll look forward to seeing the produce crates when they are ready to place into position.;-)

Cheers for now

Toto

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Another thing I do, if I get excess solder on a part :roll:.

Apply more flux over a wide area.

Use the iron to spread and thin the excess.

Use a fiber pen (I have a narrow and wide from Eileen's) to scrub the now much thinner solder layer - you should see the brass coming through.

If the solder is still thick, repeat the process until you're happy.:Happy

John

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A little more but not a great lot has been done on the stall today. Prior engagements kept me away from modelling yesterday, so I spent some time on the dining room table making crates, painting fruit/veg and assembling a bench.

I have had this kit (below) for some time. In it are 3 of these, and there is plenty of crates, barrels, sacks, and boxed bottles to choose from.



After selecting the crates, gluing the two halves together, I then cut them in half.



Below. The insides were carved out on the open edge to thin the sides down. The crate on the right has been carved and the tops have been scapelled where the individual planks end. The crate on the right has not had anything done to it.



Below. The whole stall had a coat of light blue over the previous paint job. The front bench, made from styrene and covered with the same paper as the interior. The door is from another Scalescenes kit. Yes, it is up=side-down !

The fruit and veg came courtesy of the spice rack, apart from the carrots and potatoes. The carrots are lengths of dried out coconut fibre chpped to length, mixed with orange paint and allowed to dry. This was then heaped into the small crate. The corn is cumin seeds, painted with a little yellow paint. Whilst still wet, they were rubbed between my fingers to removed most of the paint. The two crates to the right contain melons. These are pepper corns, again painted with yellow paint and the excess removed between my fingers. The barrels at the front are the potatoes. These (dirty and washed) are some old ballast painted brown and white then heaped into the barrels. Still more veg to come...



Below. The roof on. It had been painted very rough with Grimey black before weathering powders were applied. The barge boards are painted the same blue as the main structure.



Cheers, Gary.






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Hi Gary,

Fantastic. .......... Don't see the pea's.:mutley must have taken a lot of patience. Worth every bit of effort.

Cheers

Toto

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The peas are still in their pods ! ;-) 

I have thought about having a crate of peas or beans, doing them the same way as the carrots, but green. I have water melons still to go and then there is the apples, tomatoes, spinach (silverbeet), onions and garlic tied in clumps hanging from the roof rafters...

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Sun Aug 3rd, 2014 12:45 pm by Gary

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Looking good Gary :thumbs

Lot of these 'stalls' sell a few cut flowers and eggs, food for thought :hmm


(Bet your glad you're not modelling in 2mm :mutley)


Ed

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Eggs....you gonna have chickens ?   :chickenMaybe chicken run ? :chicken :chicken :chicken :chicken Only kidding :mutley looking great !
     Cheers
       Matt

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Excellent fruit and veg stall Gary!  It looks very convincing.

John

 

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Thankyou Ed, Matt and John.

The stall has slowly gathered more produce ! We are now selling red & green apples, home made tomatoe sauce, water melons and onions. That is on top of the carrots honey dew melons, potatoes and corn we have already !!



From L - R on the table we have.. red apples, green apples, sauce, carrots, corn and hanging above, white onions. In the crates and barrels below, we have more onions (good season for onions) dirty spuds, washed spud, honey dew melons and water melons (green).

The apples are mustard seed (thanks to Nick - Much Murkle) and the onions are poppy seeds. The onions that are hanging are on a fine thread of coconut fibre.

So, you lot better make your way down to Linden Ford as this is some of the freshest produce for miles ! :mrgreen:

Sorry Matt, no eggs...., yet !

When I arrived home taday, there was a package for me from Kernows.., a Bachmann SDJR Jinty (dcc ready). This is an engine I will use on the layout come the exhibition. I'm looking at repainting it from blue to weathered engine black. I can happily say that this is a lovely little model and puts my old Triang model for dead.



Great detail on this model and a bargain at $95.00/£53.00 (compared to the Aussie price of $140.00). Below shows off the blue livery a little better with the use of the flash !



I'm sure it will look better in black and weathered ! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.



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A cracking looking engine Gary, worth the wait. It also looks oaks it is but I can understand the appeal of weathered black as well. I take it you have put it through its paces already.:lol:

Cheers for now

Toto

Ps the new additions to the fruit and veg stall look great.

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Actually, I haven't given it a run yet. I want to get the produce stall out of the way first. I also have a Terrier on its way from Hereford Model Centre. Hopefully it will be here tomorrow ! ;-)  This will be another loco that I'll paint weathered black.

Cheers, Gary.

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You been listening to the Rolling Stones ?

:mutley



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Hi Ed,

That'a great song 'Paint It Weathered Black...' As for the band, they too are looking a little weathered these days !

Well, my other little loco turned up today. A green Terrier ! Wrong green though as it is in the GWR livery and named 'Portishead'. Ok, this one is not dcc ready, but for £41.00 delivered to the door ain't all that bad ! ;-)  This loco, just like the Jinty will be repainted and numbered before the exhibition. I'll have to agree with Alan-2 about the Terrier, they are a lovely looking little engine ! :thumbs





Looking at the pic above, there is some tiny little bits of styrofoam on it. I think it will look good in a weathered black livery !

It only occurred to me today that the Jinty I purchased from Kernows should have had a 57' Stanier Brake/Third and a Southern Vent Van (Express Dairy Company - English Eggs), delivered with it. I have contacted Kernows and they have told me that the vent van isn't due until Nov/Dec and the 57' Brake/Third hasn't got a release date ! Dapol have an earlier version of the coach, I am after, so I just may have to settle for that one !

Cheers, Gary.


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Watch the underframes on the Dapol stock Gary. They are wrong. The battery box is only a thin representation and the regulator box has obtained a backing that fills the trusses. You can get them in kit form from Dapol. The body is already decorated but all the bits you have to fit yourself. But at about £12 a throw are still good value if you are prepared to do a little work.

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Hi Mick,

I am only purchasing one for the Jinty to pull on Linden Ford come the exhibition, after that, my son can use it on his layout. I'm not expecting too much from it, but I think with a little bit of weathering etc, the coach should be ok for the two days.

I have just received an email from Kernows saying that the Bachmann model (no due date yet) will be a very well decorated model compared to the Dapol model available now. For the purpose of the exhibition, £14.00 (ready to run) is a big difference to £34.00 for the Bachmann model... I don't really need any LMS/BR coaches, as my main layout (Kelly Bray) is Southern based.

Cheers, Gary.

60019Bittern
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Ok Gary. If it's only for the show and afterwards for the nippers I have an old Airfix LMS Suburban Brake in the spares box. It's currently in grey primer so if it's of use to you then you can have it. Let me know.
 

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Hi Gary,

Nice terrier. It will look the biz on the layout.

Cheers toto

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Agree about the Dapol coach.  The body is probably quite accurate but the underframe will be pretty naff.  You can get flush windows from ShawPlan, but I don't see any for the Period III corridor (if that's what you've ordered):  http://www.shawplan.com/extreme_coachandunit_Laserglaze_4mm.html

Send an email to Brian to see if he's planning what you need.  The really nasty thing about these models is the glazing.  Bittern, Shaw do have glazing for the suburban.

You can also get replacement glazing from Southeast Finecast.  These are vacuformed and do improve things, however, laser glazing is by far the better choice.

As for the underframe, I have upgraded several using Comet components: 

http://bmrcm.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/LMS-Suburban-Coaches.pdf

I wrote this for the BRMNA Journal (our version of your BRMA).

So, if you fix the glazing and the underframe, you'll have a coach close to today's standards. 

I'm intrigued by the comment about the yet to be released Bachmann coach.


John
 

Last edited on Wed Aug 6th, 2014 05:20 pm by Brossard

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G`day Gary,
               There is some beautiful work going on here. I love that produce stall. The layout is becoming really atmospheric........so much so that I will forgive you for painting that lovely little terrier when it happens.  :mutley:mutley

Carry on old chap !!
:cheers  Gormo

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Thanks for the comments, much appreciated.

I have read on that other forum about addressing the issues with the underframes on the Dapol coaches. The battery box looks to be an easy fix with some judicial cutting with a hobby saw. Thanks John for the additional info on glazing and underframes and the links, always usefuland. The coach will only be used on the layout come the exhibition, then just a play thing. I too was intrigued by the bachmann coaches to be released. I know they have released the 57' & 60' Stanier Porthole Corridor coaches and the Mk1 Surburbans but not the 57' Non Corridor coaches. I guess it is a wait and see scenario ! :???:

I was also surprised to find that the coach I wanted (4P-010-018 Non Corridor Brake), had been released in July 2013, yet Kernows are saying that they did not know of the release date.... Hmmm ?? So, to be fair, I cancelled that order and I can always purchase one from Hattons instead. They have plenty in stock.

Gormo, I knew you would understand my reason for a repaint ! ;-) Not that I don't like the GWR, I like dirty, hard worked engines. Now I can't have weathered rollingstock and pristine engines, can I...? ;-);-)

Cheers, Gary.

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Well, finally the Fresh Produce Stall is planted !

After putting a shelf inside, some sacks, a barrel and a purveyor of fine produce (let's call him Con the Fruiterer...), it was time to scrape back some grass in the scenery and glue this little structure down. A few crates and half barrels of produce sitting around and a lot of growth growing behind, up and over the stall, it is done.

Couple of pics...



The figure inside was fun to create..., well not really. The Airfix/Dapol figure had have a shovel removed before it could be cut in half at the waist and his torso filed on an angle, just to get it to lean foward. The right arm (his right) was removed, his hand filed down to sit flat and then reattached to the torso. Now I have another 'bespoke' figure, that has a painted on apron, leaning foward ready to serve the next customer !



The two pics above is what the viewer would see, whereas the pic below, you would just only see if standing on the side or behind the layout.



All the signage I found on google images. I just typed in 'produce stall signage' and quite a few came up. All the signs here have been reduce considerably, cut up and/or rearranged to suit my needs.

Cheers, Gary.



Last edited on Sat Aug 9th, 2014 03:42 pm by Gary

60019Bittern
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Brilliant Gary. All that is needed now are a couple of customers and it would be perfect.

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Lovely, you seem to have an eye for this kind of thing.  Never seen better.

John

 

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Excellent modelling Gary. :thumbs

Terry

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Bloomin` Marvelous Gary,
  You must have the artists eye. That little produce stall is magnificent. Well done Sir.!!
:cheers  Gormo

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Cheese, Gary.  That's turned out durned excellent!


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Hi Gary,

Really excellent. Think I can see another picture of the week coming up.

Top notch

Toto

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Hullo

As a new comer I have learnt so much from this series.
I am thinking of coming to Sydney for the model show, would you paste a link, please

Ron Baneth

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Thanks for the comments chaps. I'm chuffed ! :mrgreen: 

Sorry Max, no cheese. Although there are round looking things on the shelf on the back wall that I could paint yellow... Hmm, got me thinking now ! ;-)

Hello Ron, welcome aboard. To answer your question, here is a link to the AMRA list of exhibitions across the country ;

http://www.australianmodelrailways.com/amdiary.html

I will be exhibiting Linden Ford at the Hornsby Heights exhibition (St Luke’s Anglican Church, 157 Galston Road, Hornsby Heights. 9am-5pm) on the 8th & 9th November.

Cheers, Gary.

 

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Excellent Gary!

Can we please have some updated photos of the complete layout?

Shaun.

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gastwo wrote: Excellent Gary!

Can we please have some updated photos of the complete layout?

Shaun.

Ditto from me.

You are truly becoming a master of your art Gary. :thumbs

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Yep .......... I'll have some more please.:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

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Hi Gary, I'd like to add to the many superlatives already mentioned, fantastic, modelling mate. A master of the noble art of railway modelling!

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Thanks Shaun, Nick, Toto and Barney, much appreciated. Not sure about a 'master of art'. More like, 'If my brain thinks of it and my hands can follow, maybe, just maybe something good will come of it...' :shock:

I will post up a few more pics of the layout tomorrow for you all.

Cheers, Gary.

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Great produce stand there Gary ;-)

 

Phil

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Ok, as promised here are some more pics of the layout...



Above and below : An over-view/aerial of Linden Ford from each end.  The Station cat 'Charlie', is based on the real 'Charlie the Cat' in the pic below !





^ 'End of the line....' Ironically, these are the exact words where Linden Ford got it's name from !



Above and below : The people of Linden Ford, with no harsh plastic bases below their feet !





^ Through the trees...



^ Platform building and goods yard. The train has left..., no passengers or staff in site !



^ A view from above the yard looking to the station throat. Again, nobody to be seen for miles...

It's always good taking pics from various angles. I can now see where improvements can be made ! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.







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Really excellent Gary. Top Marks. I only hope my efforts, when they finally get done, turn out as well.

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Nice overall view Gary, certainly did turn out well :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs


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Hi Gary,

Really is first class. I can't think of how you could improve on that. Every angle of the camera brings something new to the layout and I'm sure that people will marvel at the layout when they see it in the flesh.

Toto

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Really, really well done, Gary.  :thumbs

Only one tiny thing I can pick.  The feet of the people sitting don't reach the ground.

Just sayin'  ;-)

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Well, they are only mini-people.

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Excellent stuff Gary, good to see it all together.

 

Phil

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A superb piece of modelling......:thumbs
Well worthy of an article in one of the big magazines.

Last edited on Wed Aug 13th, 2014 02:18 pm by Dock Shunter

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Hi Gary. I feel a bit guilty as I have not visited this thread before, assuming it was a discussion about shunting, which does not really interest me. However, I decided to take a look and discovered just what I have been missing. There is some superb modelling in this simple by very effective layout. Like others have said, I think the vegetable stall is outstanding, but I was really struck by the car in the same scene which looks excellent the way you have weathered it. The other thing I like is the innovative use of the trusty 'ol Dapol figures, such as the man walking the dog, the passenger looking over the fruit and veg, and the railway worker who has found a new career as a greengrocer. A lovely layout, which I am sure will draw the crowds.

Bob

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Thanks Bob. Don't feel guilty as I know that I'm always catching up on what other members are doing, often too late ! ;-)

I do have to thank you for the inspiration you have given regarding the Dapol/Airfix figures.  :patheadAfterall, it was your thread that encouraged me to re-model the figures, swap heads etc !

Cheers, Gary.

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Brill! :thumbs

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Thanks Terry. I took your advice on the Sankey Scenics signs. I had ordered 3 various packs on the 30th July. Unfortunately they haven't arrived yet... It has been over 16 days now since they were posted....

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Fri Aug 15th, 2014 09:53 am by Gary

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I think its a sign of the times Gary.

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GWR fans may not like this post.... :mutley  You lot better turn away then... ;-);-)

Remember the little Terrier I purchased, this one, the GWR liveried, 'Portishead'. Well, it took on a new look today...



After stripping the body from the chassis,



I then used a fibre glass pen and removed those unwanted logos/numbers. Maskol was applied to the buffers/buffer beam, the port hole windows and the brass valves on the boiler sides.



Both the body and chassis (taped up) was given a spray of Floquil Weathered Black. Three coats was applied to the body and two to the chassis, running gear etc.





The wheels were cleaned up using IPA (isopropyl alcohol) on a cotton tip and then (below) the Maskol was removed from the body, exposing the clean buffers/buffer plates, port hole windows and valves.



The next job to do is to dirty her up a little... You will note that I haven't put any new numbers or logo on. I have them somewhere, just couldn't find them !:roll:



and her on the layout...



Well, maybe tomorrow or perhaps next weekend (as it is raining in Sydney at the moment, no good for painting), I'll tackle the S&DJR Jinty I purchased, but I do have to find those numbers and logos first...

Cheers, Gary.











 

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Oh Gary,
             That poor little terrier........the next stop for it will be the breakers yard by the look of it.....it`s all dirty and rusting away, but what a fine job you did of weathering and aging the loco.
            I`ve never tried that Maskol......that sounds like a very useful product.
    Full marks for an expert job......:pathead:pathead:pathead
:cheers   Gormo

Last edited on Sat Aug 16th, 2014 04:02 pm by gormo

Gary
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Oh, she ain't 'poor'. This little Terrier is doing what she was made for, working hard around the yard, up and down the branch line, serving the local industries and people ! ;-)

As for Maskol, well I hadn't used it before today, either. I can tell you it is very, very useful. Even SWMBO has spotted it, asked about it and I assume she has some plan in her mind to possibly use it in her own way.... :???:.

To tell you the truth Gormo, this stuff stinks ! But it does what it says on the bottle, actually what I have read about it previously anyway... You need to work quickly with it as it goes off in about 15 minutes, even with todays cooler weather ! I can also tell you it takes away all that finicky masking with tape, doesn't effect the paint underneath and once the model is painted, it pulls straight off, leaving the underneath clean and pristine.

Well worth it in my book. :thumbs

Cheers, Gary.

ps. Thanks for the kind words ! :mrgreen:

Last edited on Sat Aug 16th, 2014 04:15 pm by Gary

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Great job there Gary she fits right in now :)

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Good stuff that Maskol. I use it when I'm doing some watercolours. Definitely good for modelling.

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Much better Gary. Done a really good job. Numbers and logo and your done. Mind the pictures.

Cheers

Toto

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Today I went in search of the decals I have stashed away. After about an hour of turning my storage boxes upside down, inside out, and searching plenty of other hidey holes, I finally came across them. They were sitting on the top shelf of my bookcase in the train room... :oops: 

The decals/transfers are the HMRS Methfix transfers, sheet no.14., BR steam era loco and coach insignia. I did notice that there are no white numbers on this sheet, so I ended up using some old HO scale number decals left over from modelling the NSWGR, many years ago.

I have never used the Methfix transfers and I was hoping that by reading the directions twice, no three times, I should get it right ! ;-) Well, they actually went on better than the old waterslide number decals I used...! Very easy to use, giving a little patience. Unlike the waterslides that tend to move around each and every time I applied another digit. :twisted: In the end, I ended up weathering over the numbers to hide the multitude of sins... My first mistake was not to study what the numbers were carried on the Terriers. I am lead to believe they (under BR numbering) were between 32635 - 32684. I originally chose 32691... So the answer was to turn the 9 upside down, now 32661... ;-) I am still missing numbers for the smoke box door.



I'm not overly impressed with the numbering. I think these will be replaced as soon as more become available.



I found one problem today with the Jinty I purchased. The springs between the driving wheels on the chassis bottom conflict with my railway crossing...:twisted: 



These leaf springs will have to be removed so that the loco can pass over the level crossing. At the moment, all I get is wheel slip and I can tell you there ain't no major gradients on the plank !

Cheers, Gary.



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Hi Gary,

Do the springs get obstructed by much? I take it that it must be bad enough that a small file couldn't resolve it.

The loco is looking great. The ensignia certainly looks fine. The numbers also look ok but there again I would not know any different. I'll be watching to see how you do with the methfix as I have a few duplicate loco numbers that I need to attend to at some point.

3F's , 4 F's, J11's and 47's to name but a few. So the old glass fibre pencil will need to get its first airing.:mutley

Cheers for now ....... The shed beckons.

Toto

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If you have Powerpoint or similar (like Open Office from Google) you can make a smokebox number.  Font is Gill Sans.

Is your trackwork standard Gary?  I've got several Bachmann Jinties and they all run fine through code 75 and 100 pointwork, so your problem seems strange.  I agree with Toto, try filing or snipping the tips of the springs to see if that corrects the problem.

John

 

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Toto, I'd say it is just minor. It is just grabbing the rail/timber infil between the tracks.

John, it is standard Peco code 100 and the loco runs through all the points etc quite easily. I feel that because the level crossing is on a curve, the springs just catch the rail/timber infil, like this...



Nothing a little trimming can't fix.

Cheers, Gary.

Brossard
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I see Gary.  Lesson learned I think - make sure anything like that is below rail height and you'll be OK.  I've fallen for that myself.  The lowest tip of the spring should still be above the tire.

While we're on the subject, another lesson I learned:roll: is that any fill adjacent to the rail (for infilled track at a warehouse for example)needs to be such that it is always below rail height otherwise the drivers will ride up and lose contact.

John

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G`day Gary,
     I reckon if it was me, I would lose the springs ,because if you remove them ,I bet you would hardly notice they were gone, whereas the crossing forms an integral part of your layout and as such needs to remain intact.
    There you go mate....that`s my two bobs worth!!
:cheers   Gormo

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Good tip there John.

Now, the funny thing is that all the other locos I have don't have this problem, only the Jinty ! :roll: I would have assumed if the centre infil was level with the rails, there should be no problems, as the loco runs through points ok, where rails cross... :???:

Cheers, Gary.

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Bachmann's Jinty perhaps has spring detail that others don't have.  The root cause is the infill that's too high.  The right thing to do would be to sort that.  However, "fixing" the Jinty springs may be easier if you haven't got any other problem locos.

John

 

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I think I'll take Toto's advice and just file them down accordingly, rather than cut them off completely. ;-) After this, I think I'll replace some of the tension lock couplers with Kadees. I have now several packets of No.5s', No. 19s' and the odd pack of 20s'.

Cheers, Gary.

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Oh XXXX,   don't listen to me Gary. Not until I've consulted with my lawyer first anyway.






It maybe better to just file a bit at a time rather that loose the whole suspension system. Last resort ...... you can always loose them if they don't look right.






Happy filing....






Toto

Last edited on Mon Aug 18th, 2014 03:08 pm by

Brossard
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From memory Gary, Kadee #18 work out to have about the right length.  Fitting other than NEM couplings will probably require surgery.

John

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I have quite a few packs of No. 5s left over from modelling HO and as for the 19s', I couldn't get hold of 18s' at the time. I compromised with the 19s' as they have a longer shank, which means I may not have to remove buffers of any of my rollingstock. The No5s' will probably be used on stock that doesn't have NEM pockets. I guess it's a wait and see project and if the hsoe fits, good, if it don't, well I guess I'll have to change the foot ! ;-)

Toto, my lawyer said to choose wisely and heed any advice with caution.... :mrgreen:

Cheers, Gary.

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#5 Kadees work OK on wagons.  I just glue them to some plastic strip under the buffer beam (you'll have seen my pictures I believe).  I think #148 are the same but with the superior whisker spring.  #158 are the scale head version of #148.

Do you have particularly sharp curves Gary?  If not, #18s will work without having to compromise buffers.

John

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If I'm right, the curves on the Linden Ford are radius 2... So yes, reasonably sharp.

On another note, the switch I installed to isolate locos on the platform road has failed. I have decided to pull this out and install a small slide switch. Given this is a shunting plank, I will include another 3 slide switches for isolating the other three sidings. I think this will make the layout easier to operate, especially being able to isolate a loco in the platform whilst a 2nd loco disects the train for the return journey or whilst I have a loco in any other siding.

This pic explains everything. The blue rail is the isolated rail.



Whilst I'm at it, I have some Kadee under track magnets left over from previous modelling. Four or five of these can also be incorporated under the track. I know this means lifting track etc, but hey, I've had to replace track before ! :shock:

Cheers, Gary.


 

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You may need longer shanks Gary, to cater for the tight curves.  There's an engineering term for that, "suck it and see". 

I've had switches fail before - one in the middle of a show :shock:.  Some quick remedial work got things going again.

You mention magnets and these are a particular bugbear of mine:twisted:.  Have you tried uncoupling with a bamboo skewer?  It's the method I prefer.  Two advantages:  1) you don't have to tear up track and b) you can cut off the trip pin for a better look.  It's a personal choice though.

John

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To be honest with you John, I have never tried the cocktail stick/skewer before, although I have seen it applied many times on exhibition layouts. As I will be running trains from in front (to the side) of the layout, I think having magnets willbe the way to go for me when exhibiting. I have used them previously on HO layouts and they had never proved to be complacent then. As you say, 'suck it and see' !

As for Kadees, the No.19s' work a treat around the radius 2 curves and thruogh the curved set track point I am using. All good so far ! ;-);-)

Cheers, Gary.

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Well, I've watched this thread with pleasure for some time, I think my choice of favourite picture would surprise many of you, after all the clever extras and cameos have been added....it's the 'curve' scene in post 309.

Not a person or train in sight, but I can smell the damp of the woodland

Doug

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Thanks Doug. As they say, 'the simple things in life are often the best...'  :cool wink

Cheers, Gary.

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Now he tells me ......:thud

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I have managed to install the switch panel, wiring and cut the track for isolation, throughout this passing week. It has all been tested and works the way I want it to.

This is the small panel in which the small switches will fit. It is a piece of scrap from an old panel door (from an old wardrobe), suitable cut and angled.



^ The frame is less than 2" long and has to fit inside the building (station masters house) that houses the point levers.




^ All the associated wires have been soldered to the tabs on the switches. On the reverse side above the switches, I have glued a length of PCB to use as a common. Small loops of wire are soldered from the middle tabs on the switches back to the PCB. The lowest tabs (of three) have the other brown and red wires soldered to them. The larger red wire runs back to the main wiring loom under the baseboard, although not yet...



^ The completed panel fits snug inside the Station Masters House. A piece of styrene has been glued over the top to tidy things up and then the whole lot painted black. The switches are labelled for each siding, P - Platform, G - Goods siding, C - Coal staithe siding and D - Dock (cattle) siding. In the up position, they will isolate the length of track, whereas down, will provide the power. I do think I need to label the point levers as well. from left to right the levers operate : the cattle dock siding , the goods siding and the line to the coal staithes/cattle dock sidings.

Next job is the magnets for the Kadees. I have had a re-think to lifting track to install the Kadee under track magnets. I will purchase a bunch of those little 3mm cubed neodymium magnets from that on line auction site and install these between the sleepers instead. A lot easier in my opinion !

Cheers, Gary.


 

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Coming along nicely, Gary.  :thumbs

The neodymium magnets are roughly the same dimensions as the ties (sleepers), so you can replace individual ties with rows of magnets.

Sol's done that on his layout and it works a treat.

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G`day Gary,
      Just watch the polarity on the magnets. Place them down the same way they stack together otherwise you`ll have opposing forces working away at your couplings.
     By the way.... the poor old station master must be a very tolerant chap to allow all that storage in his house????
:mutley:mutley:mutley

:cheers  Gormo

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The Station Master was telling me that it was getting a little drafty in the attic.... So I filled the rest of his house with electrics, just to keep him warm ! ;-)

As for the magnets, I have read and re-read the thread Perry started on Kadee Uncoupling. See here : http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=8481&forum_id=6&page=1

Next I have to obtain those 3mm cubed neodymium magnets. They seem to be hard to find in Oz. I have searched the web for an Australian supplier, but it looks like I may have to purchase from China via that auction site.

Cheers, Gary.

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G`day Gary,
           here you go mate !!.....Adelaide

  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/216-Pieces-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnets-N50-3mm-High-x-3mm-Thick-x-3mm-Deep-/290699830282?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item43af0f640a&_uhb=1

   I don`t know whether they will do a smaller quantity for you.....you might have to contact them

  They are a lot cheaper from China though

   http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/216pcs-Cube-3mm-x-3mm-x-3mm-bulk-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-strong-fridge-Magnets-N35-/281019246878?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item416e0d691e&_uhb=1

:cheers  Gormo

Last edited on Sat Aug 23rd, 2014 05:36 pm by gormo

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Thanks Gormo,

The Chinese seller is the one I was told to avoid. If I remember correctly, Sol had purchased from this seller and the magnets never showed up..! 240 negative responses with most stating the item was not delivered or not as described. :shock:  

The chap in Adelaide is whom Sol recommends. I searched for him, but the listings I found of his, never showed 3mm cubes... :???: I had sent him a question asking about the 3mm magnets and was waiting on a reply.

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Sat Aug 23rd, 2014 05:50 pm by Gary

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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/216-x-Cube-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnets-N50-3mm-x-3mm-x-3mm-/290673678378?pt=UK_Toys_Wargames_RL&hash=item43ad80582a

he may provide snmaller lots - based here in Adelaide

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Thanks Sol,

That is the same link as one of the two that Gormo posted, although Gormo found the ebay Australian add. The purchase was completed about 9.00am this morning, only waiting now ! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

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Today I have been home, feeling slightly unwell, unwell enough not to attend work anyway... :sad: So, I managed to utilise the time to fit 4 x locos, 11 x assorted wagons and 2 x Maunsell coaches with the Kadees, which I had purchased a while ago. I can tell you that there is a big difference between the Dapol NEM pockets compared to the Bachmann & Hornby pockets. The Dapol pockets are a little sloppy and the couplers sit anywhere between 0.5 - 1.0mm lower than the Bachmann & Hornby !:shock:

As I completed this, SWMBO brought a package inside for me. The neodymium magnets I ordered on the weekend arrived ! :thumbs Now I have to remove some ballast, maybe a few sleepers to install these sticky little suckers, I mean magnets. This should keep me quiet for a while, apart from the odd bit of cursing, ofcourse...:oops:

Cheers, Gary.

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A very informative and inspirational thread Gary. An example to all that it doesn't need to be big to be beautiful! Especially for those who are new to the hobby.Thoroughly enjoyable, keep it coming.
cheers
Marty

Last edited on Wed Aug 27th, 2014 09:56 am by Marty

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I'll second that emotion Marty. Speaking directly from experience ........ Oh well.:roll:

Toto

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Thanks Marty & thanks Toto.

Meanwhile...., not a great deal has been going on with the plank, although I have atarted on installing the neodymium magnets between the sleeper for Kadee uncoupling.

Other than that, I have been weathering some locos and rollingstock, notably some vent vans, 5 plank opens, a Class 08 and part way through doing the 3F Jinty. Here are a few pics of the latest tasks completed and at hand...



^ With a little paint and a sprinkling of ballast, they won't be seen. But they do work a treat !



^ SR 5 plank open wagon. The first job was to pull this wagon apart so I could cut down the coal load as it sat far too high. This was reduced by about 3-4mm overall, 20 grams of lead added and then fitted back together. I painted a single plank on the side, gave the model a light spray of weathered black then took to it with powders. The streaks down the sides were done with a fine brush dipped into IPA (isopropyl alcohol) then black weathering powder and lightly applied, very, very gently... All the steel framing was rusted using powders, mixing dark red rust with black, applying it with a dampened (IPA) brush. The whole wagon was then brushed over with black powder then a spray of IPA from the airbrush sealed the powders in.



^ This fruit van I had thought I had bu&&ered it up by applying far too much weathered black from the airbrush. If you had of seen it previously, you would have thought that I had spilt paint on it rather than airbrushing... :oops: Using a dampened cotton bud in you guessed it, IPA, I went about removing some of the overspray (splash) of weathered black. The undercarriage was painted weathered black then powders applied the same as the 5 plank above. I'm quite surprised how it came out. In a matter of fact, I'm quite happy with the end result ! ;-)



Above and below, the Class 08. After masking all the windows and logos with Maskol, the whole loco was treated to a spray of weathered black. Matt black was sprayed over and around the grills and exhaust. After allowing all this to dry and using a few photos of dirty 08s', powders were applied as desribed above. The end result ain't too bad in my book !



Well, until I get the magnets completed, ballasted over and the Jinty logo'd and numbered, not a lot otherwise has been happening or will happen.

Then again, I need to check my list of 'What to do next....' :hmm, prior to the exhibition...

Cheers, Gary.





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Hi Gary

I just looked back and it was the beginning of May when you got the exhibition invitation, and at the time it seemed a long way off.

Now it's just around the corner.

Where's the year gone :shock:

Ed

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Hi Ed,

Time flies when your having fun, keeping busy, going through trials and tribulations, what ever, when ever and where ever. Time just seems to elude us.

Anyway, I have completed my Jinty. If you may recall, it is/was the pristine Blue liveried SDJR 3F (Jinty) and now it resembles a dirty work worn workhorse, what it was made for, or what it would have become later in its life.

This is the Jinty prior to a face lift...



The loco had the fibre glass pen taken to the existing logos and numbers prior to a few coats of Weathered Loco Black (Floquil). Some flat black was also applied along the boiler and tank sides. After allowing to dry overnight, the HMRS Methfix transfers were applied then a coat of clear matt applied to the transfers only. The next step was a good application of weathering powders and then sealing them in with IPA. Real coal has been crushed up and added to the bunker as well.

This is how she looks now...



I attempted twice to put the tiny little 3F transfers above the loco number, but twice the small (and tedious) numeral/letter came off quite some time after allowing to dry, prior to sealing the transfers in... In this case, it was easier not to put them on rather than curse, curse and curse some more...:twisted::twisted:



Below, the cab also received some colour as well, using recent pics of Bachmann's 1F cab as a guide to the cabs interior colour scheme.



I have painted up some Dapol figures, which are actually a little tall and will require their legs to be amputated just below the knees to fit. The floor inside is quite high, and not that the figures are too tall.

Cheers, Gary.





 

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Great weathering Gary ;-)

 

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That looks excellent :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

I've just bought the Hornby Railroad version which is nowhere near as detailed, but you've given me a target to aim at now, when I eventually get around to modifying it.

Ed

 

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It's been some time since I last posted, so here is a little update.

A lot of rollingstock and a few locos have been fitted with Kadees, atleast enough to keep a good mix during the upcoming exhibition. All the magnets have been completed, ballasted over and all work accordingly, at times... Little tweaking here and there and also removing a few magnets and placing further down the sidings, as the smaller locos were having trouble getting upto speed whilst sitting on 'insulfrog' points. :roll: The next layout will be ALL electrofrog... ;-)

A little more landscpe details have been added here and there, namely grasses, weeds, signs, patching up ballast, road surfaces etc.

So, a few pics...

A few new signs... This one below (green) is at the base of the platform ramp and the red sign (2nd pic) is right next to the ground frame. The taller greenish grass has not been trimed down in size yet..








Above. The afternoon glow catches Linden Ford yard. Below. Jinty 47629 basks in the late afternoon sunshine.





Above & below. Some of the taller grasses I have used around the layout to gain a little more variety in vegetation.





The grasses above, indicate where the uncoupling magnets are situated.

Below. The little Terrier pulls its midday, one coach train out of Linden Ford.



Cheers, Gary.








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Really excellent work Gary. Looks almost real. Well done.

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I'm beginning to think it is real and what a neat trick to mark where the magnets are :thumbs

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Really convincing and excellent work on the jinty. Everything just comes together and compliments each other. Well done.

Toto

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A few months ago I posted a photo of an old Triang ICI Tanker that I had weathered, see here :

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=12564&forum_id=51&page=1#p220822

Now, I just had a look at what ebay has at the moment, one sale took me by surprise...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HORNBY-TRIANG-CHLORINE-WAGONS-X-3-GOOD-CONDITION-UNBOXED-OO-GAUGE-/261599474771?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Railways&hash=item3ce88b3453

Ouch ! :shock: Some people have too much money or not enough sense ! :roll:

Cheers, Gary.

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Gary, I am impressed with the lot but especially this for detail


:thumbs

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Thanks Sol. I'm just putting all the extra little details in place prior to the exhibition. I want to be ready with no more to add and I had a good little running/shunting session the other night. Only fault that occurs is the 'insulfrog' points. The next will have to have electrofrogs points, that's a given. 

Cheers, Gary.

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Really marvellous photo's Gary, shows a lot of dedication to the layout. Attention to detail spot on, from the latest series of photo's I particularly like the second from bottom shot, without the red marking, it would have looked so real! 

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Layout looks great, very atmospheric. I really like the Terrier shot in post 411. Is the layout DC or DCC???

Cheers
Gene

Last edited on Sat Oct 4th, 2014 12:46 am by Genetk44

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Thanks Gene,

The layout is DC, the next layout will be DCC, although I like to operate points via DC or wire in tube. This layout uses wire in tube point operation and a 4 x isolated sections for holding locos in sidings.

Thanks Barney. Heres the same pic without the red ovals, just for you ! ;-)



Cheers, Gary.

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I have so much enjoyed this thread, especially now that I am 'layout-less', no where to go and play during 'Strictly Holby Housewives of One-Show Casualty City'  [for our antipodean chums, some ploppy TV stuff..]

Some thoughts on the 'floppy wire' and distance problem, the system below works very well provided the uppy-downy tube assembly is nice and smooth in action, in theory the little knob could be yards from the turn out.



Best wishes,

Doug


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Hi Doug,

The drawing you provided looks like it would work well. I ended up pulling out the ramp/linkage set-up and replaced them with the neodymium magnet system that was pioneered by Perry, Sol and associates. I have been steadily re-coupling my stock with Kadees, which to me, seems to be the better alternative for coupling and 'hidden' uncoupling methods.

On Sunday I visited the Sydney Model Railway Exhibition. whilst I was there, I did what most of us do, look for a bargain. Well, I came home with a Bachmann (Replica Railways) Class 03 shunter, which I paid $40.00 Au, (£21.85). The model came fully weathered, courtesy of the former owner. Eventually, it will be repainted from blue to either black or green.





The weathering doesn't look to bad at all, it's just the corporate BR blue I'm not fond of. ;-) It ain't a bad runner, although a tad noisy compared to new offerings from Bachmann and Hornby. Just the perfect little loco for another shunting plank...

Cheers, Gary.


 

 

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Good buy Gary, maybe a little too weathered but i'm sure that will be sorted when you paint it green, also when it's apart maybe a spot of oil will quiet it down?

 

Phil

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Hi Phil,

I was actually thinking about replacing the motor bush(s) as well when the body is off, as well as oiling. I'll oil first to see if that makes a difference and if not, take a look at them to see if they have worn. The little loco would look good pulling a rake of cement hoppers (Pressflo) with this amount of weathering... ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

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Nice little shunter there Gary, cement hoppers ... Does that meen your extending the plank to include a cement works ? 
  Watching with baited breath ! 
:shock:.           Cheers 
                  Matt

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Any room in there for a Mashima with flywheel;-):lol:

 

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Hi Gary,

Cracking little shunter. Shame you don't like the blue as it looks great as it is.
I'm sure you'll do a great job of the repaint though and I'll look forward to seeing it. Maybe even how you do it ;-)

Cheers

Toto

Last edited on Tue Oct 7th, 2014 12:17 am by

Gary
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Thanks Toto. If you like, I can run a 'repainting locos' thread. A 'how to' from go to whoa, from removing paint to paint application and weathering.

Matt, an extension to the plank... :hmmgot me thinking...! Actually, a new plank may just be on the agenda... :hmm I'm not saying anymore ! Although I still have Kelly Bray to finish off... But these planks can be addictive. I like a good plank ! :mutley

Cheers, Gary.

 

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Gary wrote: Thanks Toto. If you like, I can run a 'repainting locos' thread. A 'how to' from go to whoa, from removing paint to paint application and weathering.

Matt, an extension to the plank... :hmmgot me thinking...! Actually, a new plank may just be on the agenda... :hmm I'm not saying anymore ! Although I still have Kelly Bray to finish off... But these planks can be addictive. I like a good plank ! :mutley

Cheers, Gary.

 
We'll soon be calling you 'Chairman of the Board....' 😄😅😂
D

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:mutley:mutley:mutley...!!

Cheers, Gary.

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Hi Gary,

I'll look forward to both the painting thread and the new plank.

Toto

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G`day Gary,

  Nice little shunter there.....I did not make it to the exhibition in the end.....oh well there`s always next year. I`m sure the little loco will look marvelous once it`s had the Gary repaint and weathering treatment.

  A painting and weathering tutorial would be good if you fit it in to your busy schedule.

:cheers  Gormo

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Thanks Gormo. I might weather these (below) and post on the same thread, when I get around to the painting thread...! ;-)

The Dapol Pressflo wagons (5 for £22.00) arrived this morning, a very quick delivery indeed, considering I ordered them last Thursday, and postage only cost £3.99..! :thumbs

So, here they are on the layout...



Each wagon in the pack has individual running numbers, so no need to change these.



I'll have to do something with the very 'pristine' look of these. Far too clean ! I will also change the signage as there are no tunnels or tunnel projects going on in or around Linden Ford... ;-)

Cheers, Gary.


EDIT.. Just had a phone call to confirm the exhibition next month... :thumbs
 

Last edited on Wed Oct 8th, 2014 12:12 pm by Gary

toto
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Nice wagons Gary. They'll look the business once you've given them the magic touch.
As you say, the exhibition edges ever nearer. Best of luck with that.

Cheers

Toto

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Gary wrote: Thanks Gormo. I might weather these (below) and post on the same thread, when I get around to the painting thread...! ;-)



I'll have to do something with the very 'pristine' look of these. Far too clean ! I will also change the signage as there are no tunnels or tunnel projects going on in or around Linden Ford... ;-)



Cheers, Gary.





Hi Gary,


I agree they need 'toning down' a bit!


But, just to be pedantic, tunnel cement is a type of cement (not just for tunnels),
it's designed to be extra water-proof and will 'set' under water.


Of course, Rule No 1 might be applied here.


Jeff

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jcm@gwr wrote: But, just to be pedantic, tunnel cement is a type of cement (not just for tunnels),
it's designed to be extra water-proof and will 'set' under water.


Of course, Rule No 1 might be applied here.


Jeff



Thanks for the info on the cement Jeff. Linden Ford is situated in quiet and peaceful agricultural lands, 650' above sea level...

Hopefully no tsunamis will make it to the little village ! ;-);-)

Cheers, Gary.

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They're obviously in transit Gary, being dropped off to be picked up and go somewhere else.

(I love rule No 1)

What date is the exhibition? Sure you told us, but can't remember.

Ed

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Ed wrote: They're obviously in transit Gary, being dropped off to be picked up and go somewhere else.


Or on something else... :hmm

As for the exhibition, it is on the weekend of November 8th & 9th. Not long now...

Currently I have been 'grassing up' the road and rail side in small patches here and there to give the greenery a little lift and some variation in height.



Yes, the glue is still wet, directly behind the local. I think I might trim the tall grasses down slightly, back to about 3' high.



These grasses above shouldn't need trimming down as they look ok. I had also noticed that I, at one stage had knocked an arm off the crossing sign, visible in this pic above on the right, poking out above the railway cutting... :roll: Oh well...

Cheers, Gary.


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Blame it on the vandals that live in Linden Ford. Could be an excuse for a little cameo there with the village bobby talking to a local yob about it.

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Just a few more added details...

The fire buckets on the station building wall



and a burning drum for of ash, including a barrow of coal.



Toto has been asking for this for (link below) some time now...

Hope you all like the song 'Hear My Train A Coming' covered by Jimmy Hendrix... If not, turn the sound down.  ;-);-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0nAorBZxWk&feature=youtu.be

Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Mon Oct 20th, 2014 08:20 am by Gary

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Hi Gery,

Absolutely fantastic.. I must admit, I couldn't see how you were going to achieve the end result at first sight. It took a move or two before I could work out what was happening.

And yes, I did like the title track.

More of the same please

Toto

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Nice touch Gary and I liked the video plus Hendrix ;-) My only criticism, everything is a bit fast, looks a tad speeded up....maybe something to do with the music :lol:

 

Phil

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G`day Gary,

  I like your added detail on the layout.....it`s coming along beautifully.

  The video is great too. I had visions of you behind the controls doing all the head banging heavy rock moves whilst shunting away in that peaceful little setting. :mutley

  It looks like GaryVision is the new player in the model railway video scene. It could get interesting at the Academy Awards this year???


:cheers  Gormo

Last edited on Mon Oct 20th, 2014 01:08 pm by gormo

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Looking really good Gary. Keep it up. Good luck at the show as well. Looking forward to reports.

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Brilliant detail Gary :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

I just wonder how many people even think about fire buckets, bet it's not many.

Nice video as well :Happy


Ed

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Thanks for the kind replies.

I thought someone would have pointed out the 'stick from god...' ;-)

Toto, maybe I should have had a spiel at the beginning on what I was trying to achieve, a few shunting manoeuvre, to arrange a train for outgoing and shunting the appropriate wagons into their respective sidings.

Phil, I can honestly say it had nothing to do with Hendrix ! Funny thing is that the movements from where I was sitting was quite timid... I guess the camera (a cheap $50.00 Nikon Coolpix) changes the whole perspective. That's my excuse and I'm sticking with it ! ;-)

Gormo, no headbanging going on here ! Besides, it was Hendix playing blues...

Mick, thanks and I'll report back on the exhibition.

Ed, the buckets I had purchased some time ago, possibly for 'Continuous Loop' (Jacks Corner). I have noticed on quite a few old videos (youtube) that they were present on the platforms, whether that be on a fence or station building.

Another detail addition I'm considering, is adding some crossing fences, those that run from the edge of the road parallel with the railway line. I had seen these on the Looe Branch in a recent video. Something like this...



Cheers, Gary.

Last edited on Tue Oct 21st, 2014 02:51 pm by Gary

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Not too keen on that rock in the middle of the road that the farmer's standing on :lol:

 

Is the backscene from ID?

 



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Hi Gary,

It was probably obvious to there's what was going on and I guessed it was a shunting puzzle thingy. It is very entertaining to watch all the different moves.

I could quite easily get caught up in these things myself. The R & GLR should provide plenty opportunity. I like the small operational type moves. They are more interesting than just watching tail chasers albeit everything has it's place.

Keep them coming.
cheers

Toto

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Great video Gary and Linden Ford looks fantastic.I thought the stick of god needed a bit more weathering though.:roll:  

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Well, less than 36 hours before the exhibition...

This is how the layout will be presented on the weekend, minus the white extension lead and the two wires that hook upto the lights controller. The blue controller will be concealed under the baseboard, out of site, out of mind. Whilst the controller that will power the track, which has been painted black, will sit where the blue controller is now and blend in with the facia.



YMRC will be represented over the weekend. The added lingo below Your Model Railway Club reads...



Cheers, Gary.


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Really looks the part Gary. Good luck with the show.

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  Ripper Gary, :thumbs

  See you there on Sunday......I might even bring SWMBO....she saw those two little words on the flyer that made her eyes light up...." Craft Stall ".

  The layout looks great.....and the attention to detail is first class. I am guesstimating you will be asked a lot of questions during the exhibition....most of them will start with " How did you do.....???"

  Well good luck on your first outing and I hope it all goes well for you and your junior No. 2

 

:cheers  Gormo

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Gary, good luck with the exhibition...not that you need it, I real pro job.

 

Phil

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Excellent Gary.The very best of luck at the exhibition and thank you for advertising YMRC.

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Hi Gary,

It looks great. Very well presented. I suspect you are going to be rushed off your feet .

Enjoy the experience and all the credit as well.

Cheers

Toto

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Very best of luck with the exhibition Gary. Nice bit of promotion for the club too!

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Looks great Gary. :thumbs  I wonder if you might just need a simple shade in front of the overhead lights to cut down the glare for the viewing public? 

Good luck with the show.

Terry

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Thankyou to all for the support, much appreciated.

The lights ain't really that bad, it's just the angle I took the photo with that makes them look quite bright. I had considered a shade over the top of the light bar/support. This could be cut up quickly tonight out of the same foam board I used for the front facia. That would be just another 'little' job to add to the list of jobs... ;-) 

Now, where did I put that list of necessary items for the show that Nick (pnwood) sent me...?? I don't want to forget anything !!

Cheers, Gary.

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Hope sandwiches are top of the list.

Best of luck Gary, hope it all goes well.

Ed


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Include some Valium?

Good luck, mate, not with the layout, that'll be fine, but with the ankle-biters and inquisitive fingers!

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Everything will be fine I'm sure. Good luck with it Gary. looking forward to the reports.

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Looking great Gary , you should be well proud of the plank mate.  One important thing to remember the night before the expo....
   Sit down. Relax and treat your self to a "Wee Dram". You've earned it !!
     Cheers 
         Matt

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You'll need more than a wee dram after the show Gary.  I've done a fair few shows and they are exhausting - fun, but hell on the feet.  Will you have help? 

John

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Thanks for the encouragement, afterall, it was you lot that also encouraged me to exhibit the layout.

To answer your question John, yes I will have help. My son Jack will be there helping me, as it must operate whilst I chat ! ;-)

Anyway, Day 1 is over and done. Jack performed brilliantly and not only did he shunt on Linden Ford, he had an invite to shunt a dcc layout as well ! Now I was really proud to see Jack operating another layout. He certainly was a busy boy ! Everything worked out quite well and as usual, a few little hiccups, notably one insulfrog point and one set of uncoupling magnets. Most of these interuptions were remedied with a prod or a twist of a wooden skewer. :thumbs

I was quite surprised at the level of interest the layout generated and most visitors commented on the scenery. They did not care if there was no shunting operations taking place, which was a bonus ! I did allow a handful of visitors to sit down and have a play, even the Exhibition Co-ordinator had a good half hour shunting !

Ok, it's time to kick back and relax now, put my feet up as tomorrow beckons, but only for a short 4-5 hour stint.

Cheers, Gary.

ps, I'll post some pics of the other layouts after I get home tomorrow.

Last edited on Sat Nov 8th, 2014 01:49 pm by Gary

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Glad everything went well Gary and it's nice to see that the younger generation enjoyed themselves as well and are not content just to run a tail-chaser at warp speed. Looking forward to the pics. Well done, both of you.

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Huzzah!

D

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On my latest run through, and re post 466 and the little fencelets, may I respectfully make a suggestion?

Behind the farmer, it would give the road a greater sense of disappearing downhill out of scene if you had a cut down road
sign (back face showing) right up against thebackscene so as not to cast a shadow, and a tree, smaller in scale just poking up from the ground level, again, right on the backscene in the way that Marty did on his layout. You could consider some fenceposts with a skinnier one only 1/2 inch high on the back scene....does that make sense?

Doug

Last edited on Sun Nov 9th, 2014 01:35 pm by Chubber

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Thanks Doug, that is a great idea. I will definately look at doing that. :thumbs

As for Linden Ford, an inter-lopper arrived today in the guise of a 3MT Tank, no. 82020. She must have been delivered by Royal Mail and not sent down the line, as she is clean as a whistle ! Ok, maybe not Royal mail, but certainly Australia Post !





This model as most of you will know, is 8 pin dcc ready and was purchased at a bargain of a price, $50.00 Au (£27.20) plus postage cost ! Before you ask, yes it does run, quite beautifully I might add. The chap had it on ebay Aust with a buy it now price of $50.00, so naturally, I jumped on it as it had only been available for approximately 18 hours out of the full 10 day of sale... :thumbs The asking price in the local (Gormo's local) hobby shop is $196.00 Au (£106.60)... Ouch ! :twisted:

Now it just needs some of that tender loving muck and grime. ;-)

Cheers, Gary.



Last edited on Tue Nov 11th, 2014 11:38 am by Gary

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Why so reasonable? Quite a Riddle!


OK, I'll get my hat...

Doug

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Hi Gary,


another bargain there I think. it looks in very good nick. As you say ................. just some muck required.


toto

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Just the thing for Kelly Bray Gary. Ok, it should be an Ex-LMS one, but it would fit nicely. If it runs as good as it looks then you have a fine bargain there.

Last edited on Tue Nov 11th, 2014 01:06 pm by 60019Bittern

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 G`day Gary,

  That`s a little beauty you`ve got there. Makes you wonder why the guy would sell it.....it would be hard to part with.

:cheers  Gormo

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Doug, everyone loves a riddle..., don't they ?? :lol:

Toto, it is a great model and it's a shame to dirty her up, but the paint and powders are a callin'...

Mick, I do know that Callington was visited by the 2MT Tank, but unsure about the 3MT... You wouldn't happen to know whether they ventured down through the Tamar Valley, would you ??

Gormo, your right. I'm unsure of his reason for the sale, but it's one I couldn't refuse..., and no, I ain't selling it ! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

 

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Hi Gary,


it was maybe just surplus to requirements but I think I would have been asking a lot more for it. Just shows .......... we are all very suspect of a true bargain.


toto

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Hi Gary,
Looking in Callington's Railways there is no mention of the BR standard tanks being used on the line. The last tanks mentioned were the Ivatt 2-6-2's Nos. 41275, 41315 and 41316 and they remained until displaced by diesels in 1964.
Will check with some other sources and get back to you on this one.

60019Bittern
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Checking on the web it seems that all of the Std Class 3 tanks in the Devon and Cornwall were shedded at Exmouth Junction. No. 82020 was a Wrexham engine. If you want I can send you a list of those at Exmouth Junction. It is probably likely that the wheel base of the Class 3 tanks would have been unsuitable for the Gunny branch. The Ivatts screamed a bit on the curves and had to be fitted with flange lubrication.

Last edited on Tue Nov 11th, 2014 04:56 pm by 60019Bittern

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Great result Gary,it makes you feel good inside.:thumbs

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 G`day Gary,

  It`s your railway mate........create a new history for it if you have to.....that will confound the rivet counters. :mutley:mutley

  These days.... it could be a preserved line.....so you could pretty much run what you like..????

 
Create the history to suit the situation......let`s face it....the press, television, radio, historic novelists etc. etc......all have there own versions of the truth / history.....so why can`t you????

This is a good excuse for anyone actually. In my case an LMS passing through my GWR line could be out on a steam excursion going to where ever???....who cares...let`s enjoy running the trains.

 
:cheers  Gormo



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You are absolutely right Gormo. I don't think anyone in Oz will notice that I'm running a Class 3MT Tank instead of a Class 2MT Tank on Kelly Bray... ;-) 

Maybe what I should have modelled was the un-eventual line from Saltash to Callington... Then again, I think that was going to be GWR territory. :shock: Luckily the GWR decided on a bus from Saltash to Callington... :mrgreen: I suppose I could have always modelled a through branchline and named it St Mellion, St Dominic, Crocodan Wood or even Ashton and run a mix of LSWR and GWR... ;-);-)

Cheers, Gary.

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You've got a bargain there Gary, and rule 1 applies :thumbs

I'm after a 2MT or 3MT for Latton Fields, but I bet I won't get one at that price.

Well done and enjoy.


:cheers


Ed




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Whatever you like Gary,

 It`s your railway.!!

 Just to highlight what I was saying about preserved railways and their mix of stock.....check this out for The Keighley and Worth Valley. The railway is 8kms long and very popular with rail buffs.


   http://www.kwvr.co.uk/trains-and-the-railway/locomotives-and-rolling-stock/

:cheers  Gormo
 

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Great link Gormo ! :thumbs

They certainly do have a rather large array of locomotives. This page has been bookmarked for further readung in regards to all the extra links.

Cheers, Gary.

Gary
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Not a lot has been done on Linden Ford in the last 3-4 weks since the exhibition, apart from giving the 3MT Tank (I purchased recently), a run on it.

Today I had a phone call and email from the exhibition manager of the Epping Model Railway Exhibition, regarding showing Linden Ford over the three day, Queen's Birthday Long Weekend in June 2015 (6th/7th/8th). This would possibly be the 2nd largest exhibition in Sydney, after the Sydney Model Railway Exhibition over the October Long Weekend...

So, apart from trying to complete the engine shed for Kelly Bray, it looks as If I need to iron out the bugs on Linden Ford ! Even though it is over 6 months away, that time creeps up at quite a steady pace. ;-) Better pull my finger out !

Cheers, Gary.

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Hi Gary
Well done on being asked to exhibit Linden Ford at the June 2015 Exhibition!

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Hi Gary,

I did not think your exhibiting days were over some how. The start of many I would think. Congratulations.

Toto

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Nothing like a deadline to focus the mind.  Well done! :cheers

John

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Well done Gary. I bet Jack's up for it too.

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Brilliant news Gary and a fitting reward for all your hard work.The first of many i think.

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Thankyou all. I think I need to re-read this thread to find out what I really need to update or change. There is bound to be more than a couple of tasks ahead of me... :roll:

Cheers, Gary.

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Good one Gary,

I`ll be there if I can. I`ve been to one of their exhibitions and they are good. They`re not on the scale of Liverpool but quality beats quantity anytime in my book. They usually have a good selection of goods for sale as well.

So mate....this is the start of something....one invite will lead to two and two will etc.etc.etc....pretty soon I`ll have to fight my way through the crowd at Liverpool to see you guys exhibiting.????

Congratulations and well deserved to you and Jack.

:cheers  Gormo

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Great stuff Gary... But then it's such a lovely and practical layout I'm not surprised.

Cheers

Marty

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Shame it's not Epping in Essex Gary, as I'd get to see Linden Ford 'in the flesh'.

Well done and I think Alan is right, first of many :thumbs


Ed



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Hi Gary Very good indeed, as a "New Boy, this time around" the idea of cork is new to me, do you cover the board completely and which is the best adhesive?? are there any benefits of cork?? as some layouts seem to have track pinned direct. Passed Driver

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Bonza!

[I believe that is colonist-speak for 'Jolly Good Show...or is it Japanese for werry smor tlee?]]

Doug

Last edited on Tue Mar 3rd, 2015 04:19 pm by Chubber

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I managed to miss the update on this last year Gary, Well done mate ! Hope your working hard to iron out those kinks mate :). ( not that there will be many I'm sure ) times flying by lol . June will soon be here

All the best for their show and mind and find time for the odd photo if you can


Cheers

Matt

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Thanks for the recent comments. Yes, it's March already and I have done very little on either of the layouts recently. After weeks of looking for a car, followed by some average weather, quite busy and exhausted from work (I must be getting old...:lol:), and chasing down a Garrett and riding her, I just may get back upto speed and do those little things needed.

I do need to lift and replace a certain point that gave me a little grief at the previous exhibition, then all should be good. Maybe a tidy up with some scenery, add a bit here and a little extra there. I think I'll do what Doug suggested about placing the crossing sign further back or add some folige behind it. I think I need to re-read the previous comments and make a 'to do list'...

Kevin.

To answer your question regarding cork, I guess it is a matter of choice. Cork is something I have always done, as you can model a decent shoulder in the ballast. The use of cork really depends on what you are modelling as well. If you are modelling a railway yard (non mainline), you would not require a shoulder for the ballast/ash/clinker infill. Most railway yards have the ballast/ash level with the tops of the sleepere right across the whole scenic section. Here you can cover boards completely. Whereas mainlines, they do have a shoulder and would require individual strips of cork under each track.

If you wish to use cork under your track, PVA is used to glue it down. If you are covering the whole baeboard with cork, again PVA is best to use. I squirt it on and use a adhesive trowl (http://www.robertsdesigns.com.au/square-notched-plastic-adhesive-spreader-8mm) to move it around evenly. I use 3mm (1/8") cork sheet and cut it myself.

I did end up using some old 6mm thick (1/4") cork tiles as an infill, only to make up the thickness of the straws I used with the 'wire in tube' point changing. This was glued down with 'no nails' heavy duty adhesive.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Gary.

 

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mattc6911 wrote: Hope your working hard to iron out those kinks mate :). ( not that there will be many I'm sure ) times flying by lol . June will soon be here

Cheers

Matt


Matt couldn't be further than the truth...

Over the next week, Linden Ford will undergo some surgery. Nothing serious, only a small complication. During the last exhibition, one point on the layout caused some grief and the 'hand from above' had to be called upon. This point in the foreground is the one in question...



I have already received a new electrofrog point from Hattons, as well as the Wills point rodding kit and some insulated rail joiners. Being code 100 and a DC layout, hopefully I won't need to install a polarity switch...



I have the Ratio 4 x LNWR signals kit (square post) stashed away, so the Wills point rodding and the signal will be a new addition to the layout. I have everything to get me started so hopefully I can have all this completed this time next week... :roll: ...or the next... ;-);-)

Cheers, Gary.



 

Last edited on Mon Apr 6th, 2015 12:36 pm by Gary

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Hi Gary,

I hope the point swap does not cause any damage or at least I hope it's possible to get it back to how it is.

Keep us posted.

Cheers

Toto

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This will be the second point that I have changed. if you remember, I changed one that leads to the goods siding in post 146. Funny how time flies by..., it was Easter last year that I changed the other errant point ! ;-) Difference was that last year, I had until November to get it all together, this time I have 8 weeks... :roll:

Cheers, Gary.

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Take it from someone who learnt the hard way Gary.

Doesn't matter if it's DC or DCC, bond the rails and switch the frog, after all this is a exhibition layout.



Ed




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Funnily enough Ed, I was just re-reading your woes you had with the point you replaced. So, no questions asked, I'm out with the soldering iron ! Whether I use a contact/micro switch to change polarity is another question... I think that I'll do your recommended mods first, then install and test the frog out. Only time, trial and error will tell ! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

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G`day Gary,

A micro switch will do the job for you depending on how you wire the point up in the first place.
The only thing to watch with micro switches is you need a light touch with the soldering iron. Too much heat on the contacts will b****r up the switch. I now prefer soldering the wire to mini brass slide on connectors and then fitting them to the micro switch.

:cheers  Gormo

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Thanks Gormo, excellent tip. :thumbs I think I'll pick up a switch from Jaycar after work tomorrow.

Cheers, Gary.

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Yesterday I started on stripping out the errant point. This time the task ia more difficult as I have fences and other little details along the track to contend with.

I have taken both Ed and Gormo's advice regarding adding extra electrical pick-ups to the switch blades and the use of a micro switch for polarity change of teh frog. Previously, I had used insulfrog points, but I do want more reliability during the upcoming three day exhibition.



I have cut some grooves into the sleepers to bed the extra wires into so the point sits flat.

Using a chisel (carefully), I cut around the point and also partially into the scenery to house the micro switch. The green line is where I have chiseled and the red box is the micro switch location.



The track had been cut with a circular cutting tool. I cut below the rail joiners (green arrow), which allowed me to pull the small piece of track out of the rail jjoiners, back to the existing track (red). The rail joiners can be seen untouched, marked blue.



Trial fitting of the point and micro switch has proved it will fit and operate as expected. The base board has also been predrilled to take all the associated wiring.



With th point in position, I found (like last time I replaced a point) that the existing track did not line up... :shock: I suspect there have been changes over the years in the design of Peco points... :roll: The track lines up with the straight side, but not the curved side of the point. :twisted:




So, there is only one thing to do...



Remove and relay the siding... :shock: I actually didn't mind doing this as there is/was a curve in the track which I wasn't happy with. I will straighten out this siding, but it will still have a slight curve, but not as pronounced as it was.

Well, that's it for now, hopefuly more tomorrow as today is a day out with my boys, visiting my parents.

Cheers, Gary.






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Jesus Gary,

A shocker to see Linden Ford stripped back like that but I'm sure you'll soon recover it back to where it was ....... If not better knowing you.:mutley

I'll look forward to seeing how you get on and see LF back to its former glory.

Cheers

Toto

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All the track is back in place now, especially after the electrical dramas I had endured. Thanks to all who replied to my questions in the other thread regarding wiring in the microswitch.

 

Some grey acrylic paint was spalshed around to blend the sleepers with the existing track elewhere. Tomorrow will involve getting the scenery back into shape, the bit I enjoy ! ;-)

Oh yes, the damage that was caused due to this excersise...



One broken fence post ! I'm thinking about allowing the wires to sag down and leaving the broken fence post besides the fence. Another little bit of scenic detail... :)

Cheers, Gary.

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Hi Gary

Before I read your last sentence I was thinking exactly the same thing.

Maybe if you could have the broken bits of fence post propped up against it, or even another broken one further along?



Ed

Last edited on Sat Apr 11th, 2015 03:52 pm by Ed

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Easily fixed :)

 



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Nice job on the photoshop Phil. :thumbs It was another consideration I had.

To get the scenics back into place there were a few little areas that needed some thought, like under and around the switch mechanism on the points (toe end). Then it dawned on me as I was going through the scenics box of tricks.

Foam ! By using a piece of old rail, I manipulated small pieces of foam in and under the sleepers of the points. This formed a good foundation for ballast etc.



All foam in place under the sleepers of the point and over the microswitch.



It didn't take too long to get the ballast and scenics back in place, about 20-30 minutes.



A close-up along the cattle dock and fenceline.



Now that broken fence post...



By bending the wires down, painting on some powdered  reust and adding the broken fence post, all is good ! I need to straighten out some of those wires, they have a few kinks in them, kinking the wrong way. Photos don't lie, do they... :roll:

I'm thinking of going over the grassed sections again with static grass, maybe do this a week out from the exhibition.

Cheers, Gary.





 

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Hi Gary,

 

The foam and balast has done the trick and looks like nothing has been touched.;-)

 

Just one thing I'd like to mention...I have my tin hat on now:lol:  You obviously have a good eye for composition re your pictures, and you are able to focus on specific areas, so you know what you are looking at and what you want to show, some of your pictures are good, exposure wise but others, over or under exposed, also the overall sharpness doesn't seem to be there and there only so much Photoshop can do to correct this...is it your camera?

 

Here's one of your pictures, which has a great composition, but I notice your  fucusing it basically centre right.

 

I have PS'd it as much as possible.

 

I mean these comments in the nicest possible way as your layout is excellent but not shown to it's full extent IMO.

 



Gary
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Hi Phil,

Thanks for your comments. Yes, it's the camera, a cheap $50.00 (₤26.00) Nikon Coolpix. Plus the light this time of year....;-)  Actually, I had taken this pic only 4' away from a north-east facing window, hence the exposure. Maybe I should have turned the layout around away from the window and used more diffused light..??

I had a play on the computer and this is what I produced... :oops: ...atleast the colours are stronger... ;-)



Maybe I should take look at my pics first, have a play to try and bring the best out in them before posting . ;-)

Thanks for the tip, much appreciated for your honesty. :pathead

Cheers, Gary.

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Hi Gary,

I don't know what settings you are able to get with your camera, check if you have a manual setting where you can add your own f stops, if you took that picture with a high f stop, something like f22 you would get nearly everything in focus.

 

Phil

Gary
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Hi Phil,

No F-stop on my little camera, very limited functions... I'll take a look at SWMBO own camera and see what it is able to do.

Cheers, Gary.

Gary
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Just received an email from the Exhibition Manager of the Epping Model Railway Exhibition, to inform me that my layout qualifies for the 'Daryl Nelson Award'. This award is  presented for the best new layout where a new layout is defined as a layout that has been on the exhibition circuit for less than 12 months.

Now something like this would be the icing on the cake ! ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

mattc6911
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That's great news Gary ! But I'm not surprised as the quality and attention to detail of your build was there for all to see, and I'm sure its given inspiration to quite a few to "have a go ". :thumbs

Well done mate


Cheers


 Matt

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G`day Gary,
I can only echo what Matt has said.
Well done and Bravo!!!!!!!
:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

:cheers  Gormo


60019Bittern
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Well done Gary. Let's hope it all goes well at your next showings too.

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Now you really have to get rid of the blue/green tinge on the rails and make sure everything is working 110%.

No pressure then :mutley


Best of luck Gary :thumbs


Ed

Phil.c
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Another well done from me.

Phil

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Hi Gary,

This does not come as a surprise to me at all. I dare say that there are quite a few good layouts on the circuit but yours is a cut above ........ And I have not seen the rest. There are only a certain amount of people that can create the attention to detail and the correct fusion of scenics like you do. Many others will be good ......... But average.

I am not any fortune teller but it's clear that this will be the first of many accolades.

Well done

Toto

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Gary - also congratulations, but as others have said, no surprise for me. This is top exhibition grade if anything is!
With your permission, here's the first paragraph from page 1 that launched the adventure:

"Whilst I wait for modelling materials to turn up on the door step, I needed something to do. When going through my garage, I came across an old wardrobe base that I put away for some reason or another. Hmm, this would make a great shunting plank. Having a look through some boxes, I came across a few 2nd hand points and track, I have enough for a layout...."

I must say, when I first saw that trackplan and read the above (being a new member here), I had fairly low expectations for the outcome. But it is a master stroke of genius to turn this into such a believable, well observed and detailed model.I do wish that my similar 'trainset' layouts could have turned out this way!
Again, well done. I'm sure I'll be referencing this layout thread many times in the future. :thumbs

Alan

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Thanks for all the positive comments. Hopefully with all your thoughts, Linden Ford will pull a rabbit out of the hat in two weeks time.

Anyway, Linden Ford has ben going through an upgrade. Nothing serious, just a scenic tidy up. This includes re-grassing, re-gravelling the roads, more roadside hedges, removing the dreaded verdigris and tidying the ballast up in areas.

So, a pic of the start...



Below, the road way re-dusted.



Below, some of the new roadside hedges. The glue and some excess staic grass doesn't do the scene justice, but it has been clean up.



I'll post up som more pics once everything has settled down and when the glue has cured.

Cheers, Gary.


 

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It's looking fresher than ever Gary. Really great and realistic modelling. Thanks for sharing.

Bill

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Although on a different scenic theme, this layout is what I call Downsway South quality. When I first saw that layout, it blew me away and to this day has been the bench mark.

Linden Ford has at least matched it in that you can place yourself in the scene and walk through it. The new hedges are great and not over kill. The shadows through the track caused by the trees etc are terrific and give an idyllic almost fairy tale quality ( sort of Beatrix Potter material ) . Personally I would not try to add too much more as you may end up over dressing it.

First class Gary, this is a winner.

Cheers

Toto