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A Row of Cottages T19.... - Scalescenes Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Jan 6th, 2014 07:24 pm
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Chubber
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Here is my attempt at the current new model in the range, I've chosen the 'Flint and Brick' texture for a change, and used the red pantiles roof texture.

Instead of 2mm and 1mm for 'thick' or 'medium' I deliberately used 1.48mm which is easy [ish] to get and 0.7mm which increase to 1.7 mm and 0.92mm respectively  with the addition of one thickness of texture paper. I'm drawn to the conclusion that the ratio of the thicknesses is more important than the precise individual thickness, within sensible limits.

Caveat  - if you use thinner card then cut out the 'Upper floor and lower ceiling' and 'internal left' and 'internal right' walls [the ones with the fireplaces] components about 1.5mm wider, you can trim them to size when you come to fit them. 'Length' dimensions are unaffected. Also add enough 'layers' in the chimney components to make up to 8mm thickness so that the wrapped brick paper lines up nicely instead of over-overlapping.

The guttering is 'built in' as are the down-pipes, one reason for making sure that your 'medium' card is not too thick, certainly not the least over 1mm as the downpipe components are wrapped in black paper, and for a small downpipe like this shouldn't scale up to more than about 4".

Installing the guttering this way is very neat and time saving but during assembly the short stubs of 'gutter' are very fragile, and I knocked one off, so I'd recommend blacking exposed card then coating them with neat PVA to toughen them up a bit. Similarly I rounded over the sides of the downpipe elements before wrapping them to a. improve their appearance  b. obviate sharp edges that will get rapidly worn or damaged as they are incorporated early in the build.

Make sure you've got your head around the layout of the internal walls, I'll confess that I have an upstairs chimney breast unrelated to a lower fireplace, oops. The chimneys wrappers incorporate the flashing details and I've made them the S'scenes way with laminated card components. I'd normally use 8mm Balsawood and apply wrappers and flashing separately.

In the pictures below I have not used any weathering, but have added a few marks with a fine fibre tip pen here and there and drawn a 1mm line under each window sill to add a 'shadow' line. I think the appearnce achieved by John Wiffen's papers is excellent.

Finally, at only 10" long and only 2-7/8" inches wide this model succesfully addresses the need for an attractive model with a compact footprint making it ideal for the back of a layout without the need to resort to kit-bashing a low relief building.

 




 

 




 

 




 

Best wishes,

 

Doug



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 Posted: Mon Jan 6th, 2014 08:02 pm
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GreenBR
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Looking good
stephen



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 Posted: Mon Jan 6th, 2014 08:28 pm
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Brossard
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Another fine rendition Doug.  It's good that you've built the kit "from the box", as it were, to show folk what can be acheived.  

John

   

 



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 Posted: Mon Jan 6th, 2014 08:48 pm
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shunter1
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Very nice Doug,
Its a comfort to know one does not have to stick with 2mm and 1mm card just get the ratio right.
many thanks,
Derek.

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 Posted: Mon Jan 6th, 2014 08:56 pm
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Petermac
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I wondered what you'd been up to Doug .........:roll::roll::roll:;-)

A great model and a lovely finish using the flint.  Is the roof tiling flat or 3D ?  It looks very authentic. :thumbs:thumbs

As you say, it would look good in a villager setting or as farm workers cottages in a small hamlet somewhere.  Does the back look as good or does it have to be "face on" on the layout ?



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 Posted: Mon Jan 6th, 2014 09:15 pm
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Chubber
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Hullo chaps,

Thank you for your kind remarks, Peter the pantiles are just printed out onto 90gm copier paper, and sorry, I forgot it, herewith a picture of my backside...I couldn't resist 'tweaking' at least one window to show it half open.

 

 



 

Doug



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 Posted: Mon Jan 6th, 2014 09:54 pm
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col.stephens
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Nice job Doug. :thumbs

Terry

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 Posted: Tue Jan 7th, 2014 12:05 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Stunning as per usual, Doug.  :thumbs

Thanks for the shot of your backside.  ;-)



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 Posted: Tue Jan 7th, 2014 01:23 am
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Petermac
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MaxSouthOz wrote: Stunning as per usual, Doug.  :thumbs

Thanks for the shot of your backside.  ;-)

There's not a huge difference between your frontside and your backside Doug - just the odd opening................:mutley:mutley:mutley

Actually, John has been quite clever in that there actually isn't a huge difference.  I had to look at both views to check what had changed.  It could easily be placed at any angle on the layout and, with that small footprint, would fit in very nicely on a quiet country lane - maybe with a tractor parked outside whilst Mellors popped inside for his sandwiches.

I like the open window Doug. :thumbs:thumbs



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 Posted: Tue Jan 7th, 2014 03:13 am
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Marty
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Very nice Doug.

I like the curtain and door detail particularly.

Cheers

Marty



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 Posted: Tue Jan 7th, 2014 06:22 am
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John Dew
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Hi Doug

Great to hear from you.............let me join the chorus of  well earned appreciation! Looks to be a neat kit from which you have made a very attractive model.

I hadnt realised Kellogs used 1.48mm board :lol::lol:  I suspect it will be a while before I pluck up courage to deviate from Johns 2mm and 1mm........although I have enough problems here because Canada conforms with the USA practice of still using Imperial measurements:shock:

Best Wishes



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 Posted: Sat Jan 11th, 2014 04:08 pm
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Chubber
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John Dew wrote: Hi Doug

Great to hear from you.............let me join the chorus of  well earned appreciation! Looks to be a neat kit from which you have made a very attractive model.

I hadnt realised Kellogs used 1.48mm board :lol::lol:  I suspect it will be a while before I pluck up courage to deviate from Johns 2mm and 1mm........although I have enough problems here because Canada conforms with the USA practice of still using Imperial measurements:shock:

Best Wishes


Hullo, John,

 

Thanks to you and the other posters for the kind remarks.  I've tried to avoid using thicker card for a while as I'm finding it a bit painful on my elbows and right shoulder. The received wisdom with card modelling is 'several, light cuts..' but I'm getting a bit of repetative strain syndrome!

The great John Ahern certainly used much thinner card, of the sort you could fold up to make the corner of walls, and subsequently reinforced and braced the interiors. I think the nearest is 'Postcard card' and I'm about to embark on a little project using only one such thickness and doubling and trebling up at window and door apertures. In his book he shows this arrangement. Considering his weapon of choice was a razor blade in a wooden holder I'm not surprised!

 

Reproduced by permission of R. Russel and E. Fells



 

Yesterday's appearance of the sun prompted me to take the model outside, there ain't nutin' to beat it for making a model look better!

 




 

Mrs Pete the Porter has been looking for a new place to live, as Pete the Porter will have to leave the railway as a result of a backstrain caused by trying to lift Driver McIvor's wallet when he dropped it.....She doesn't like it, too far from the shops...

 

All the best,

 

Doug



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 Posted: Sat Jan 11th, 2014 05:48 pm
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I like it. Very neat work as usual !

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2014 02:06 am
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col.stephens
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That sky is not very realistic Doug! :lol:

Terry

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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2014 04:20 am
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Doug

Good to see you back showing us how things should be done. Can we now have another version with a few of those special touches of yours please



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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2014 01:07 pm
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Chinahand
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Just found this thread Doug and must say that row of cottages really is superb and shows just how good John Wiffens kits are. I like the small, subtle touches you've used, such as the line under the window cills and the half open window and you really do have to do a double-take at that outdoors picture. Keep up the great work.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2014 02:33 pm
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Barneybuffer
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You've only gone and done it again Doug. Taken a basic model, added your touch of brilliance and come up with a more really good looking row of cottages.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2014 06:34 pm
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gastwo
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pnwood wrote: Doug

Good to see you back showing us how things should be done. Can we now have another version with a few of those special touches of yours please

Couldn't agree more Nick.
Do you think we could persuade Doug to bring out a 'How it's done by Dickson' book?

It's time J. Aherns excellent work was brought up to date, and I for one think Dooferdog is the man for the job!

Shaun.

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 Posted: Wed Mar 12th, 2014 04:30 pm
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Chubber
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pnwood wrote: Doug

Good to see you back showing us how things should be done. Can we now have another version with a few of those special touches of yours please


Thank you for all your kind remarks, I've done this to please Woody 'cos you know how he sulks if he doesn't get his way....

All three front buildings are the same TO19 model, see the broken glass on the top of the shop backyard wall? It's probably ther to stop naughty boys like me climbing over to pinch the empty Tizer bottles to get the 3d back. It was a good wheeze at the local off licence, until the proprietor started taking the black bakelite screw-in stoppers out and refused to hand over the 3d without one......

Poop poop!



Doug

[some more piccies if you want them..]



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 Posted: Wed Mar 12th, 2014 05:57 pm
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I've downloaded the N gauge version in red brick and flint and brick, currently working on transferring the card page into the plotter cutter software, looks like I should be able to cut up to an two 8 house terraces from an A4 sheet. I've also measured up the door and window openings and compared with my preferred Peedie Models etched doors and windows, find the doors are a bit larger, so looks like printed doors will be needed.

I'll probably use black plastic rod for downpipes and the shop front from Dougs other thread could make use of some Scalelink white metal pilasters I have.

Won't be able to start building yet, waiting for some laser treatment on me right eye, close modelling work is on hold. I'm also probably moving house within the next few months - downsizing from 3 bed det to 1 or 2 bed flat/apartment (hopefully in a retirement block. I'll be 80 in two weeks keeping this 102 year old  pile of bricks going is no longer fun! So layout tear down is on the cards which  shouldn't need close up eyesight!




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