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Converting Bachmann's Jinty to EM - Kit Bashing - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Dec 16th, 2014 05:58 pm
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Brossard
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That makes sense Andy.  Which is why, for plain axles and wheels bores (as with Gibson and Ultrascale wheels), you want some sort of anti rotation feature.  This can be mechanical or chemical as with Loctite 603.  It's all good experience.

John



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 Posted: Thu Dec 18th, 2014 02:38 pm
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shunter1
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Hi John,Having studied the Bachman Jinty chassis and pickup plate and done some trial fitting of the Comet frames.With some minor filing and refiting one can marry the two and even use the Bachman plastic brakes.Also the Bachman gears and motor can be used.Of course thats an unsprung chassis in 00.
Derek.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 18th, 2014 04:49 pm
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Brossard
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:hmm Not sure I'm getting the point here.  If you're leaving the loco 00, what benefit is there to overlay Comet frames? 

I'm still thinking about using Comet frames and RTR wheels for EM conversions. 

I've noticed that newer Bachmann wheels have correct flange thickness (~0.6mm) for EM, so it's only necessary to file back the wheels fronts by 0.3mm or so to get then to EM.  That only leaves the challenge of getting the wheels to go on the EMGS axles.

John



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 Posted: Thu Dec 18th, 2014 06:32 pm
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shunter1
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Hi John,The Bachman frame and wheels were  somewhat wrecked changing axle sizes to 1/8th for EM and useing Gibson wheels.

So I need the Comet frames with bearings to get it to work again in 00. The Comet frames add a bit to the width but there is plenty of room for sideplay.I do not intend useing 18 inch radius curves.Plus I get the added weight useing the Bachman metal chassis.A photo of the planned construction the Comet center splasher had to be adjusted for the Bachman motor fitting.

Hope that clears the mystery.

Derek.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 18th, 2014 07:11 pm
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Brossard
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Ah, thanks, yes that does clear things up.  It's also food for thought for me.  I'm not considering the Jinty at this time, but other Bachmann, and even Hornby, locos (which also have thin flanges).

In fact it had occurred to me that you could chop out the middle bit (containing motor and GB) of the Bachmann model and insert it into a Comet chassis.

:doublethumb

John



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 Posted: Thu Dec 18th, 2014 08:42 pm
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Good thinking John.This should work and with luck one keeps the undercarrige plate and Nem pockets for couplings.Of course its never that simple !.
Anyway your locos would have extra weight and a motor/gears and save a load of grief buying bits and bobs from oversea,s.For EM some packing between Bachman Mazak block and Comet frames and you are away.The Comet axle holes line up dead on with the Bachman ones so thats a plus and you can use the Comet coupling rods.Maybe something will work in our favour at last.
Cheers,
Derek.

PS:If you want you can spring the frame on the center axle useing the Bachman system.The Comet frame with some jiggling could take a thin Highlevel hornblock.Thats for another day though.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 18th, 2014 09:23 pm
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Brossard
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I think we're both on the same track with our thinking.  Now that I've done an EasiChas and can see the concept more clearly, I was ruminating about using Comet frames, spaced as you say and springing using Comet bearings (which are quite thin) and coil springs.  From the picture on Comet's site, their bearings look very similar (or may even be the same) to Brassmasters.  The thing that has been pointed out as a potential issue is that the penultimate gear is fixed while the drive gear floats with the axle.  The movement is slight enough (and I've snubbed mine as you will recall) that it doesn't matter in practice.

Yes, the Comet rods are very good and Bachmann's look terribly oversized when you compare.  I think Brassmaster's rods are a bit too fine and don't like the very fragile knuckle joint.

If there's no Comet chassis, you could always get some Gibson milled frames (although these, being thicker, may not accept Comet bearings) and their rods.

John



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 Posted: Thu Dec 18th, 2014 11:31 pm
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Hi John,Glad we are getting on the same wavelength with this kit bashing.
Gibson frames would not matter as the bearings of their make could be used.The same wheel centers should apply.So Comet rods could be used.I agree with not liking flimsy coupling rods.After all we want our locos to be able to pull something and last a good while.
Cheers,
Derek.
PS:Whats a good glue for sticking N/S frames to Bachman whitemetal.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 18th, 2014 11:44 pm
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Brossard
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I wouldn't use Gibson sprung hornblocks.  There are just too many small parts that require soldering and as you attach one, others fall off.  Mind you my experience goes back several years so with the experience I have now, things might be different.  Have you made any of these?  IMO there are far better options out there nowadays.

I would use Contact (Impact?) Cement for joining dissimilar materials.  I use it quite a lot and it works OK as a regular glue or in Contact mode where you let it go off for 20 minutes.  I suppose cyano would be OK too.

John



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 Posted: Fri Dec 19th, 2014 01:20 am
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shunter1
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Hi John,I would not use Gibson sprung Hornblocks either tried them years ago.Spent more time on the floor looking for bits that had flown into orbit.I find with age creeping on I just don't have the patience for the tiny stuff in 4mm scale.Thanks for the glue tip.I am trying some contact adhesive on a frame side.Will see how it is in the morning.
Cheers,
Derek.

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 Posted: Sat Dec 20th, 2014 07:11 pm
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shunter1
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Hi John and anyone else.Just a word of warning on the Comet Jinty chassis frames.While the axle holes line up length wise with say a Bachman Jinty frame.There is a slight problem.The Comet center axle hole is slightly high on its frame.This would cause the center axle to be high and you would end up with your center wheel treads sitting above the rail tops.This of course only applies to an unsprung chassis setup not useing hornblocks.
Cheers,
Derek.

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 Posted: Sat Dec 20th, 2014 07:22 pm
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Brossard
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Hi Derek, this is, of course, not something I've noticed since I used hornblocks.  The instructions may provide a clue.  I know that Iain Rice used a bodge like this to set the center bearings of a rigid chassis slightly higher, by the width of sellotape, to help with uneven track.
John



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 Posted: Sat Dec 20th, 2014 10:00 pm
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shunter1
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Hi John,No mention in instructions.
The bearing holes in the center were about 0.75mm to high so I had to file them down to get them level ?.
Also I am not keen on the Bachman pickup plate system its to easy to get a short off the frames or axles and its a pig fixing the motor wires.So some experimenting to be done.
cheers,
Derek.

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 Posted: Sun Dec 21st, 2014 01:31 am
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Brossard
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0.75 mm sounds a lot to me.  It doesn't sound right at all, these etches are know for their accuracy.  My thought about protecting wiper strips from shorts was to slip some insulation over them, like that stripped from wire.
John, from a miserable, drizzly and slushy Winnipeg.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 21st, 2014 01:42 am
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shunter1
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Hi John,I guess I must have got a monday morning etch.?.
Good tip with the wipers.
Waiting for glue to cure on the Bachman chassis and Comet frames.Will give it 24 hours.I removed the brakes and hanger from the Bachman keeper plate and am going to refit wipers and use the Comet brake hanger.Removing all those moldings makes the plate very easy to slip inside the Comet frames and one keeps the Nem coupling points.
Cheers, From a cold but dry for the moment Kilkenny.
Derek.PS:You may remember the EM job with those Gibson wheels and how you said they looked P4.You were right.So I have to get some EM profiled ones so the loco can roll through the turnout crossings.P4 wheels drop big time on 00 gauge built track.EM are fine.

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