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Scratchbuilding a BR Pre-cast Concrete Provendor Store - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Dec 3rd, 2013 03:06 pm
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Gary
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Now all the woes are over regarding posting etc, I thought I'd better update where I left off...

The doors were next to be made up. I chose two techniques, one was to use strips of the 0.75 x 1.5mm and 0.75 x 2.0mm styrene strip and the other slightly more complex as I wanted a pair of doors to be open. These doors were made of embosed styrene and several pieces of strip in various sizes.

The door below is made from the 1.5mm and 2.0mm strip. They are made as a double door with the top and bottom horizontal styrene scribed in the middle to look like two individual doors. These then had a piece of scrap styrene glued across the back to allow it to be fixed to the building. These doors require a little tidying up.



The next two pics show how the end doors were made. These doors used the embosed sheet (1.5mm spacing), 1.0 x 1.5mm strip for the outside vertical edge frame, 0.25 x 2.0mm for the upper and lower horizontal frame and 0.25 x 1.5mm strip for the cross bracing. The embosed sheet was lined with the 1.0 x 1.5 strip and the rest was layered on top.



The completed doors minus some edge filing.



After the doors were made, it was time to cut up the hexagonal rod that I put together using the Plastruct 3.2mm triangle rod. These were cut to 15mm lengths. To form the pier caps, I used 1mm (40thou) styrene and an 8mm punch. Several caps were punched out and glued to one end of the piers.



Piers and caps fixed into position on shed and the doors fixed in position. The groove on the horizontal styrene between the doors can be seen in this pic. I will also post a pic of the other doors in position once the model is near complete.

 

One vital piece I left out was the gable vents on the end of the building. Always something to miss :oops:. So I cut out a small rectangle, filed it to size and installed the louvre vent. This was made up of 0.25 x 1.5mm strip, spaced with 0.4 x 0.5mm (.015 x .020") strip. This was put together on an off cut of 1mm styrene sheet and glued in from the inside, poking the louvres through the wall. To finish the louvres off, a small frame was made from the 0.4 x 0.6mm strip. Photos can be cruel..., trust me, it looks better from a normal veiwing distance !




For the roof, I fixed a few more internal supports. Over this I glued in lengths of 0.5mm (20 thou) styrene sheet to form up a 'false roof'. This was done to support the corrugated card I used as 6" corrugated asbestos sheeting. The pic below shows the 'false roof', with the lower row of corrugated card fixed in position. The 0.5mm styrene strip above the corrugated card was fixed in place to give the top sheet of roofing that overlapped look, which can be seen on the right hand side.



The corrugated card was purchased at one of SWMBO favourite scrap booking retailers for about $1.80 (£1.00) a sheet. Plenty to cover this big shed.

Well that's it for now. Next up will be the flashing on the gable roof ends, the ridge capping and the continuation of the wall supports to the roof line on the shed ends. I will also build up the loading platforms now I have a finished height for the shed.

Cheers, Gary.








 



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 Posted: Tue Dec 3rd, 2013 03:15 pm
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Petermac
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Looking great Gary. :thumbs

By "corrugated card", do you mean cardboard or corrugated plasticard ?

Also, when punching out the styrene circles, do you need to soften the styrene beforehand ?  I wondered if it might split just punching into it ............:roll::roll:



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 Posted: Wed Dec 4th, 2013 09:12 am
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Gary
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Hi Peter,

The corrugated card is actually cardboard and no, I do not need to soften the styrene, just one swift hit with the hammer and out they pop ! I would think by softening the styrene, with heat I guess, would possibly distort or thin the sheet. I purposely bought the punch for this reason of making caps. A pack of 5 different size punches were bought for under $6.00 (£3.30).

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Wed Dec 4th, 2013 12:37 pm
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col.stephens
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Very nice Gary.  One question:  When punching holes in your cutting-mat, is it necessary to soften it first?  :lol::lol::lol:

Terry

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 Posted: Wed Dec 4th, 2013 12:47 pm
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toto
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Hi Gary,

Coming on a treat. These doors look fiddly though. Will there be any type of barge board between the gable wall and the roof line to hide the join ?

I'm surprised that the styrene allows such thin sections to be cut for the likes of the doors etc. could be a lot of cursing going on when your working with these smaller parts.

Keep the photo's coming

Cheers

Toto

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 Posted: Wed Dec 4th, 2013 02:59 pm
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Gary
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Hi Terry,

I guess I'm lucky with the mats, as I get SWMBO second hand mats ! This way they get extra life out of them and SWMBO gets new a one... ;-)

Hi Toto,

Yes there will be a barge board that covers the edge of the gable and the roof. I guess you'll have to wait for the next installment...;-) 

As for the thin strips of styrene, I have quite a few packets of various widths and thickness's, some over 10 years old which always come in handy when scratchbuilding. Great thing about styrene is that such items as the gable vents, they can be made slightly over-length and once the solvent has cured, the vents can be trimmed down with a sharp blade.

Cheers, Gary.

 



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 Posted: Thu Dec 19th, 2013 01:31 pm
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Gary
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Well it's certainly been a while since I had an update on the shed, but I had to source more styrene for the piers, which finally arrived yesterday. So, I have been busy building again and adding a little paint.

First off, I made up another 17 piers, as per instructions earlier. Once dry, filed down they were glued to the caps then to the base of the shed. I have left out the middle row of piers as I will probably build up a box for the model to sit on, rather than the piers. The piers will then be landscaped into the baseboard. The next step was to build up the ridge capping. This was done using 0.29 x 2.5mm styrene strip and 2.0mm diameter styrene rod. A length (and a bit) was glued to the top of the asbestos roof on each side. Once this had dried, which was quick as I had to use Zappa Gap to bond the styrene to the corrugated card. The 2mm rod was then glued on top of these two strips to form the ridge capping.

As Toto pointed out a while ago regarding barge boards, these again were the 0.28 x 2.0mm styrene strip, cut and glued to hide the ends of the corrugated card. Along the top edge of the barge boards, I glued a length of 1mm diameter rod to form the end capping (see pic). Once all this had cured, the remaining posts which sit between the top rail and the gables were glued in. These pieces overlap the barge boards, so these are made of two lengths of 0.28 x 1.5mm styrene strip layered onto each other, as one piece was fitted between the top rail and barge board and the second piece is fitted the same, but overlapping the barge board, (again see pic). Next on the agenda was the guttering. Using Evergreen 2mm channel, I capped off the ends then glued this onto the top rail. Down pipes were formed out of 1mm diameter rod, suitably bent to fit around the piers. Four down pipes are used on both sides.





I was pretty happy with the end result, so out came a can of acryllic grey primer. I gave the model two or three light coats, allowing to thoroughly dry in between, which didn't take too long as it was quite a warm day. I had to replicate a concrete colour so I purchased a 'tester pot' of Dulux 'Crewelwork', which is a warm ivory colour. The model was airbrush with this all over, roof, walls and piers. About three thin coats seemed to do the trick as I wanted a hint of grey to see through. I allowed this to dry, but the paint was lacking that worn in look. It is amazing what a little green acryllic can do. With a very thin wash dragged into the corners of the panels and some panels completely washed, it gave it that weathered look, but will require more weathering when embedded on the layout. The same green (Humbro acryllic RC410 Maunsell Green Matt) was used to paint the doors and the guttering/down pipes.



^ Overall pic of provendor store. No unloading platforms yet, but they are coming...



^ Double door end



^ Rail side, which won't be seen from the normal operating position...

The unloading platforms for the railside doors are on there way. Probably get these on over the weekend.

Cheers, Gary.




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 Posted: Thu Dec 19th, 2013 05:06 pm
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toto
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Hi Gary,

Looking excellent,

What's happening with the central piers.? You mention a box of some sort, is the underside of the store going to be hidden .

Looking at the pictures it looks quite some size, what is the overall length of the building?

It has certainly all come together well given the tricky sizes of the materials for the finer details. The corrugated roof looks bang on. It would be good to see a picture of the structure in place to get an idea of how it fits in with the rest of the layout.

Cheers for now and I look forward to the next update.

Toto

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 Posted: Thu Dec 19th, 2013 05:36 pm
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gastwo
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Great build Gary - I've been following this with interest!


If it is of any help to you, there is an existing double run of these provender stores at the old Letterston railway station between Haverfordwest and Fishguard.
I've enclosed a shot from Google Earth, but if you want more detailed pictures its only a few miles away from me and I would be quite happy to go along and see what I could snap.

(I'd add a link for the Google shot, but I seem to muck things up every time I try to add a link... You could find it easily enough though - Letterston, Pembrokeshire.)



That white structure behind it is the bridge deck of a catamaran...

ATB
Shaun.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 19th, 2013 10:00 pm
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Very nice job Gary.  Possibly that second pier from the left could do with straightening, but otherwise, a lovely building. :thumbs

Terry

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 Posted: Thu Dec 19th, 2013 10:53 pm
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That's one heck of a building Gary.Well done.:thumbs



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 Posted: Fri Dec 20th, 2013 09:50 am
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Gary
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Thanks for the replies.

Toto - The box underneath will be a small rectangle (no hidden storage) to sit the building on. This is to make sure the building will sit level on the baseboards. I still have to make a few more piers for the loading platforms on the rail side, so a few more piers from the ends may just appear. The box will not be seen as the engine shed will hide the majority of shed and only the ends will be poking out from behind. Maybe I should of cheated and just modelled two ends !

Shaun - Hope you have enjoyed the build. Sorry about the delay between posts... :oops: Those pics you have provided look great. The shed on the left is definately where I was headed with this build. There are quite a few similarities.

Terry - I'll get onto the wobbly pier prior to placement on the layout. I could lie and say it is my version of 'poetic license'...

Alan - Thankyou !

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 20th, 2013 01:07 pm
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toto
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Hi Gary,

Let's have a trial peek of the building in place on the layout. :mrgreen:

Cheers

Toto

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 Posted: Fri Dec 20th, 2013 03:00 pm
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Gary
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I'll put the boards up in the morning and display the models ... Which should be at about 12am for you ! ;-);-)

I actually need to lift some track and install the Kaydee under track magnets in the morning, so that I can uncouple trains without the need from 'the hand of god' !

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 20th, 2013 03:03 pm
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toto
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Hi Gary,

I'll look forward to that. I'm having two new tyres fitted to the car at about eleven thirty so I'll have a swatch when I get back.

Cheers

Toto

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