Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Members Projects > On Members Workbenches. > Adding lights to a Hornby 110 DMU To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

Adding lights to a Hornby 110 DMU - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Sat May 11th, 2013 02:06 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1st post
Wizmacnz
Full Member


Joined: Thu Aug 23rd, 2012
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 322
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

As I am using RR & Co to computer control my layout, the computer needs to be able to detect where the trains are to be able to operate correctly. I am using current sensing occupancy detection which means that all rolling stock must draw some current if it is to be detected. Not a problem for anything with a motor, but coaches (unless they have lights) and wagons are not normally detected. I am in the process of adding lights to all coaches and miniature resistors to all my wagons. 

I looked at available lighting kits, including the excellent flicker free lighting kits from DCC Concepts, but decided I needed to come up with something a bit cheaper.

I discovered that you can buy warm white LED's  by the metre on sticky back tape.





They are arranged in groups of 3 complete with resistors for connection to a 12V DC supply.





But I just cut them up with a pair of scissors to give me individual LED's . Cost per LED is approximately 35p in UK money.

Although they have 6 pins, 3 are positive and 3 negative (polarity is marked on the LED by the little indent in the corner.
Because I don't want to stick them to the roof of the carriage, I decided to use thicker wire that would support the light in place as well as conduct electricity to the LED, so I used single conductor 1.5mm domestic mains lighting wire with the insulation stripped off. You don't see the wire when it is in place  up against the ceiling of the carriage, but it could be painted if there was any concern.




Having cut off the LED's and cut and stripped two lengths of wire, I worked out where I wanted to position the lights and marked the position on a piece of wood.  The dots are for this installation, the lines are from an earlier installation to a MK1 carriage.



The LED's were held in place with double sided sticky tape run the whole length of the wood. It also helps keep the wire more or less in the right place as the soldering is done.





The copper wires are then soldered onto each side of the LED's


I found it was easier if I applied solder to the wire before soldering it onto the pins of the LED.




The wire is soldered across all three pins of the LED.

Having completed the soldering I connected some DCC track power (via a diode and a 1K resistor) just to check that the soldering was OK and that I hadn't got any of the LED's the wrong way around. 



Of course one was placed the wrong way up (quickly resoldered), and this photo shows that I'm not too flash at straightening wire. But as I said earlier, you don't see the wires when installed.


To be continued........



____________________
Peter

OO Bidley
DCC Layout with TC8 Gold

Model Railway Structures
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 11th, 2013 06:23 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 2nd post
Petermac
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Nr Bergerac, France
Posts: 16864
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

This looks very interesting Peter :thumbs

I have some Bachmann DMU's that have a somewhat "hit and miss" lighting system so I'm keen to see what you're doing.

This shot looks like twin wires - is that the case or is it just the lighting reflecting on the "round" ?




____________________
'Petermac
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat May 11th, 2013 10:59 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 3rd post
Wizmacnz
Full Member


Joined: Thu Aug 23rd, 2012
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 322
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Peter

That's just the light reflecting on a single wire. It's a chunky wire and a small LED.



____________________
Peter

OO Bidley
DCC Layout with TC8 Gold

Model Railway Structures
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2013 12:34 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 4th post
Wizmacnz
Full Member


Joined: Thu Aug 23rd, 2012
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 322
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Part 2 .....
Having checked that the lights were working, I then trimmed the wire to length and bent the ends to turn down into the toilet compartment.






I then cut small notches in the top of the drivers cab compartment wall and the toilet compartment wall to house the wires and superglued the assembly in place.



This picture actually shows the centre car not the end car with drivers cab, but the idea is the same.
If you wanted to just have the lights on all the time you could just install a resistor and diode in the toilet compartment, but I had some old decoders that had been swapped out of other loco's so I decided to make the lighting DCC controlled. A two function decoder was installed in the toilet compartment of the centre car and a four function decoder installed in the "un motorised" end car.



The photo shows the recycled two function decoder (complete with with remnants of double sided foam sticky tape from the last installation) with some temporary connection to track power for testing.
The four function decoder was slightly too tall to fit in the compartment so I cut the compartment floor out.


Because the directional lighting requires more wire connections I cut a piece of circuit board to a suitable size and glued that in place to the underside of the floor. 



The board sits above the underframe like this when all the wires have been connected.


The trickiest part is feeding the wires past the weight housed in the underframe. It takes a bit of time and patience.

I puzzled for a while over how I would be able to install directional lighting and still be able to open / or dismantle the coach again once the lights were glued in place. I decide to cut the drivers cab away from the drivers compartment wall and fix this permanently to the body. 


The cab front panel and part of the underframe had to also suffer some surgery to create space for the LED's. I used tower LED's  poked through holes drilled in the painted lights. The ends of the tower were filed down to give the required amount of projection. 
This photo shows the removal of the underframe and buffer beam to accommodate the lights. The rebate is not seen when the model is assembled.



This pretty much covers how the lights were installed... of course it glosses over the fiddley-ness of soldering and poking around wires in confined spaces, but I figure if I can do it with my ham fisted skills, then anyone can .... with patience.

The next post covers how the power gets from the track to the toilet compartment.

To be continued ......



____________________
Peter

OO Bidley
DCC Layout with TC8 Gold

Model Railway Structures
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2013 03:00 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 5th post
SRman
Member


Joined: Sat Jan 10th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2680
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

This looks very good.



I have been struggling with rewiring and altering the lighting on some Bachmann class 158 and 159 units, particularly as the wiring and head/tail LEDs get in the way of being able to remove the bodies easily.

:cheers


One question: where did you buy the LED strips as these look ideal for a number of projects I have in the back of my mind?


:hmm



____________________
Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2013 05:33 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 6th post
Sol
A modelling Moderator.


Joined: Mon Nov 28th, 2011
Location: Evanston Gardens, South Aust, Australia
Posts: 3984
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Jeff
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Waterproof-Warm-White-DC-12V-5M-3528-SMD-300Leds-LED-Strips-Strip-Light-Dimmer-/121053711323?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2f5d0bdb


I typed into Ebay LED strips



____________________
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2013 06:02 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 7th post
Wizmacnz
Full Member


Joined: Thu Aug 23rd, 2012
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 322
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I bought my LED strips from Jaycar (Australian and NZ electrical components etc store). The tower LED's were from DCC Concepts.
Peter



____________________
Peter

OO Bidley
DCC Layout with TC8 Gold

Model Railway Structures
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2013 06:10 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 8th post
Wizmacnz
Full Member


Joined: Thu Aug 23rd, 2012
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 322
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Just checked out your Ebay link Ron. That's  even cheaper than Jaycar. You can buy the LED direct from a specialist store like RS Components, but it seems to be way cheaper to get them already formed  onto reels of tape with resistors included. The backing tape, even when they are cut up makes them fairly easy to handle.
Peter



____________________
Peter

OO Bidley
DCC Layout with TC8 Gold

Model Railway Structures
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2013 06:13 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 9th post
SRman
Member


Joined: Sat Jan 10th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2680
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Thanks Ron and Wizmac. There is a Jaycar not too far from here but Ron's link will be even better - cheaper and no petrol to use to get them!!
:cheers



____________________
Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2013 06:56 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 10th post
Wizmacnz
Full Member


Joined: Thu Aug 23rd, 2012
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 322
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Part 3... Getting the power from the track.

I replaced all the original plastic wheels with Hornby replacement wheelsets. Contrary to what I'd read somewhere, both wheels on the axle have insulating hubs. I used conducting paint to dawb an electrical path from the inside of the wheel rim to the axle. This was the expensive part. A tiny tiny bottle of paint costs around 25 pounds UK. (It says the contents are 56% silver). You only need the tiniest amount though to do a wheel, so provided like me you have lots of wheelsets to do, the cost per wheel is not too bad.




The above photo shows some of my best handiwork. Cocktail stick painting has never been my forte.

When its dry it can be painted over, and then it doesn't look so bad.




I bought some spring pickups from DCC Concepts. You can buy them in a bag of 48 at a cost of about 50p per spring. I decided to pick up from every axle. One bogey picking up from one side of the track and the second  bogey picking up from the other rail.

I had some thin brass strip in the odds and ends box and cut this to length and added three solder pads before gluing it into the bogey.






The ends of the spring pickups were solder into the outer two pads. And a wire was soldered to the centre one that connects to the circuit board stuck to the underside of the floor.



I left the connection of the bogey directly below the circuit board until last. This gives you slightly more access to control the location of the wires sandwiched between the carriage interior and the underframe as you juggle it all together.

Having put it together I soon discovered how easy it was take apart again. When I placed the completed project on the programming track I couldn't get the software to see the decoder. With no motor attached to the decoder you often need a resistor temporarily connected across the unconnected motor leads to be able to program it. I'm sure I knew this but forgot that I knew that at the crucial time. Anyway, wasn't that easy to open it all up and put it back together again, but it wasn't impossible. (About a 10 min task).

The last two pictures, don't show my final intention. I need to make the head lights slightly warmer (probably a little yellow paint) and the home made plasticard rear lamp is to be replaced with one that isn't broken.  I also need to add vacuum pipes etc. 

I'll take some more pictures when the complete unit is finished, or as finished as I am capable of finishing.






I based the prototype for the light on this picture http://www.flickr.com/photos/25459770@N03/3878739136/ but it fixes direct to the LED as I couldn't see how to easily mount an LED on a bracket. I hardly noticed the bracket in the prototype photo sol I figured I could get away with it. Not sure the lamp is of 1960's vintage though.



____________________
Peter

OO Bidley
DCC Layout with TC8 Gold

Model Railway Structures
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Oct 20th, 2013 07:44 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 11th post
BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 3173
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I was very tempted by this system because of the adjustable length, but found an easier one that doesn't destroy resale value as long as it fits. Rapido (a Canadian company) have something called an "Easy-Peasy Passenger Car Lighting Set" (I kid you not) consisting of an LED, a diffuser bar and a magnetic reed switch that is triggered by a magnet wand from outside of the car (carriage). Runs on a lithium battery, I've had one now for 2 years and it's still going strong. Doesn't require any wiring, disadvantage is that it is not DCC controlled unless some rewiring is done (wire to the battery contacts, add a dropping resistor as required, 3-5k should do it) and only comes in 2 lengths. I stuck mine to the roof with some double sided foam tape. Comes in N (around $7) and HO (OO) (around $15) lengths. Hold the wand above the roof of the cars/carriages as they pass by, lights on! Repeat, lights off! I used the N version for a Centenary 3rd brake, I'll try and get some photographs posted. 

Nigel



____________________
©Nigel C. Phillips
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 11189     Current time is 08:24 am  
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Members Projects > On Members Workbenches. > Adding lights to a Hornby 110 DMU
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic


Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topics

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.