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Metcalfe Chimneys - Metcalfe Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Jan 3rd, 2015 06:21 pm
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The Bankie
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Hi Wizmacnz
Just had a look at your stuff and they look excellent. However if I use your 1019SS Chimney Pots at 4.44 Euros (currently £3.46) I still do not have enough for this:-



It needs 36 pots and that is a single 3 storey which comes in at 4 to the meter and I have a 4.5 meter run.

I will almost certainly get some of your products for smaller buildings but, like the original tenements, mine will have to done on the cheap.

Regards
Jim



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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2015 01:30 am
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Wizmacnz
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Hi Jim

The 3D printed pots are about half the price of white metal, but are never going to be as cheap as biro tube. By placing the printed pots into mortar haunching the fiddle of positioning individual pots onto the top of a chimney is removed.

The T019 SS Chimney pots that you mention is a specific set to suit the dimensions of the Scalescenes Row of Cottages. John Wiffen has been very helpful in providing chimney stack dimensions for his models. 

At some stage I would like to produce similar sets to suit Metcalfe Kits, but I really need the dimensions of the tops of the chimney stacks as I don't have the budget to go out and buy Metcalfe Kits just to design some chimney pots. Like your tenements my R&D has to be done on the cheap.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2015 02:01 am
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Petermac
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I have some Metcalfe kits Peter - both made and unmade so I'd be happy to measure the stacks if you're serious.

Having bought some of Peter's chimney pots Jim, they may cost more than scrounged dead biros but they are really good. ;-)




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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2015 02:09 am
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Wizmacnz
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I'll take you up on your offer Peter. The Chimney pot sets are very quick to put together once you have the dimensions. No hurry, just when you have a few minutes you can drip feed me some dimensions and the kit they are for. I'm sure I can google some Metcalfe pics to get the idea of the required style.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2015 03:25 am
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Petermac
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Will do Peter. :thumbs



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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2015 06:26 pm
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Hi Guys
Wizmacnz (wasn't he Superman's enemy from the fourth dimension?) :lol: What dimensions do you need? I can soon get them for Scalescenes as I like Johns stuff and have quite a bit of it. I work in AutoCAD so I can get sizes for you on DXF files. What I need is the 3D printer, although I think that some of the guys in Oz are getting the price down to sensible, i.e. sub £300, levels but I still need a stencil cutter as well.

Peter thanks for the verification of the quality. I can certainly see these for use on the baseboard edge nearest the viewpoint.

Regards
Jim



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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2015 06:51 pm
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Alternatively......

'The Doofer Unbreakable Chimbley Pot'

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=7966&forum_id=11&highlight=chimney+pots


Doug



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 Posted: Mon Jan 5th, 2015 03:13 am
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Hi Jim
I did a google of Wizmacnz and all I found was me. This less famous villain from the 4th dimension is obviously trying to steal my identity. (Actually I think you may be thinking of my friend Mister Mxyzptlk from the 5th dimension).

Thanks for the offer re: Scalescenes, but I have dimensions straight from the horses mouth so to speak for a number of kits. When I get time I'll go through and see what ones I have missing. It's the Metcalfe kits that I'm lacking detail on.

Doug .. I like your unbreakable chimneys, but of course I prefer mine. Well actually I don't have any rubber insulated cable.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 12th, 2015 04:07 pm
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Hi Wizmacnz
I would call you Peter but that makes at least four on the board that I know of, is there a regulation somewhere that in any gathering of model railway enthusiast there must be a minimum number of "Peters?:shock::shock:

Sorry, but I have no Metcalf models on the layout so no idea of the sizes. The models look fine but the things I need don't seem to be available.

 Dooferdog chimneys don't need rubber insulation provided you get solid core mains cable. Use the stripper section of a crimping tool, all those little holes in the handle, and trim one end with your craft knife. Poke the tapered end into the stack and it works.

Regards
Jim



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 Posted: Mon Jan 12th, 2015 04:24 pm
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Are these any good Jim ?

http://www.modelrailwayscenery.com/2014/02/weathered-chimney-pots-oo-4mm-176/


Ed




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 Posted: Mon Jan 12th, 2015 06:30 pm
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Hi Ed
They look good but the suffer from my original complaint. No matter how hard I try to sort it there is always a line on the completed pot.
Having said that I am just about to order a sheet for "trials".

Regards
Jim



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 Posted: Mon Jan 12th, 2015 06:41 pm
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Petermac
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If you let the card soak a while before rolling Jim, the join can almost be eased out of sight.

Alternatively, you could fit the chimneys with the join at the back .................:roll:



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 Posted: Mon Jan 12th, 2015 06:45 pm
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If you paint the soaked (as suggested by Peter) rolled pots with terracota emulsion paint (get a tester pot) you will struggle to see the join, also looks more realistic painted.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 12th, 2015 07:01 pm
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Hi Petermac
Since the printer is a water based inkjet printer soaking is not a good idea. If I get a dye based ink it will be fine but that means either another printer or new print heads and a change of printing ink.
Line to the back is good - - - - until you look proudly at the finished item and find the one pot you have missed.

Campaman
Hmmmmmm, terracotta emulsion! Worth a try but I think I'll just print the outline since I'll need to overpaint anyway. No point in printing details I'll be covering up.

Ed
Just downloaded the sheet you recommended and will do a trial run.

Regards
Jim



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 Posted: Mon Jan 12th, 2015 07:21 pm
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Ed
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Not so much a recommendation as a suggestion Jim, although I am just finishing their warehouse kit which has turned out quite well.


Ed





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 Posted: Mon Jan 12th, 2015 07:59 pm
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The Bankie
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Most of the things suggested on this board are good and if there are any snags they are mentioned.
I just spent £1 and got some chimney pots and a free kit I haven't looked at yet

For a Scotsman living in Yorkshire that is an incredible deal.:lol::lol::lol:

Regards
Jim



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 Posted: Tue Jan 13th, 2015 12:47 pm
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Petermac
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"Soak" was perhaps the wrong word to use Jim ................:roll:

I use PVA for my card modelling - applied via one of those "fine tip" applicators.  Normally, I'd apply the glue and and make the join.  By "soak" I meant just wait a few moments for the card/paper to soften very slightly before making the join.  Wait too long, and the PVA starts to go off.  I too use ordinary inkjet printing ink so it's not colourfast.  We're only talking printer paper thickness here - not 2mm card !!!

Painting with emulsion paint is a good idea because it gives some texture, but you'd loose the ready made soot effect.  That's fine if you want to weather them yourself, but in Ed's link, they're already weathered for you ...............:roll:  



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 Posted: Tue Jan 13th, 2015 05:20 pm
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Hi Peter
Thanks for the clarification.
I went to the site in Ed's link and bought a sheet of 42 chimney pots for £1 (€1.28 today 13/01/2015) and got a freebie with 5 garden sheds and other stuff as well so it was a worthwhile exercise.
I'll use these as practice runs. The buildings do not have the inbuilt solidity of the Scalescenes stuff but they are perfectly adequate for what they are intended to be used for. I think that John Wiffen produces some superb detailed models but in most cases the internal details will not be easy to see even with internal lighting. Mind you, I have seen a USB endoscope on Amazon for about £10.
As far as emulsion painting goes I will simply produce a sheet of blanks so that I can colour them myself.

Regards
Jim



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 Posted: Tue Jan 13th, 2015 06:43 pm
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If I might poke my oar in at this stage, the paint [I use thick acrylic, OK I don't buy [oooh, I hate that word...], I put a little on an old credit card and leave it for 10 or so minutes when it becomes thick and very sticky. By dipping your cocktail stick mounted pot in it, and twiddling 'twixt fingers it seems to act like potters clay and covers nicely, especially if you take the trouble to tear the last 1/4" off of the strip to give a tapered end...

Twiddling the tip of the sticky pot against the back of a scalpel blade can even give you the characteristic groove around the top if you get it right.

Good luck, think 'potters clay' not 'paint'.



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 Posted: Tue Jan 13th, 2015 08:11 pm
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Hi Dooferdog
Grab an oar and poke in, this is a discussion thread after all so let's discuss.
Seems like a good idea but I bet it takes a lot of practice to perfect the technique. Then again, is practice a bad thing?

In fact I have just finished rolling a test piece using Petermac's method and also using a nail file emery board to thin out the end before gluing it down. Certainly reduces the obvious line but what I need now is the skill to take a picture with more than a fuzzy blob on it to let you make up your own minds.

Regards
Jim



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