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00 Gauge - Great Chesterford Junction - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2014 01:03 am
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emmess
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Thanks for the explanation, Gormo. Genius! Can't wait for the video of the panel in operation :)



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2014 02:12 pm
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gormo
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G`day Folks,

                 Thanks for the comments.......much appreciated !!.

 One thing has struck me and it may be of assistance to any one laying track, especially over baseboard joins or in tricky areas like turntables, where accuracy is critical.

 The screw and washer system I have used to lay the track on the sliding yard is terrific when you need to align track ends. Just loosen the screw to make fine adjustments and then re-tighten the screw. Test run some stock and adjust if necessary until it`s dead right.

 Obviously the screw is ugly and not appropriate for scenic areas....but????....if you use the screw system purely to align the track, and then solder or pin your track in place.....then remove the screw and washer.......Job done for a perfect alignment.

  What A Ya Reckon Lads....is that a good idea or what???????.....I`m gonna shout myself a Port.


:cheers:cheers:cheers  Gormo




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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2014 04:28 pm
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Gary
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gormo wrote: Obviously the screw is ugly and not appropriate for scenic areas....but????....if you use the screw system purely to align the track, and then solder or pin your track in place.....then remove the screw and washer.......Job done for a perfect alignment.

  What A Ya Reckon Lads....is that a good idea or what???????.....I`m gonna shout myself a Port.


:cheers:cheers:cheers  Gormo




Only one Port ?? That's worth atleast a few. I reckon it's a great idea ! :doublethumb:doublethumb:doublethumb

One option I was contemplating when aligning tracks is, to join the track with metal fishplates/rail joiners, leaving that 0.5mm gap between the rails. Solder into position on the copper clad sleepers (pcb), then cut the fishplates with a razor saw or dremel.

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2014 04:45 pm
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gormo
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     Yes Gary.....that would work too !!! and is probably a better option for soldering to PCB. The screw method would better suit standard plastic track sleepers.

    I knew between the two of us we`d work it out. I think that must have been you waving from the 10.30 that just went past on the parallel Up line.  
 :hi

:cheers   Gormo



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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2014 06:02 pm
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Ed
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Hi Chaps

Didn't Marty do something similar on Newcastle Emlyn quest:

Ed



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 Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2014 02:05 am
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gormo
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Hi Ed,
         Maybe he did???......I`m not sure?????.......but we are exposed to all these influences and they lay there in the subconscious mind until needed. Unfortunately sometimes they come to the surface as an original thought and that may not always be the case.........Sorry Marty.
:cheers   Gormo



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 Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2014 09:42 am
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Hi guys,

Yes indeed, something similar but without the washer... And I was just copying what I'd seen done on someone else's layout of course.

... And far be it from me to deprive Gormo of his port!

Once my track is in place, aligned and tested I ballast. When the ballast is dry, remove the screw and fill the little holes with ballast.

I've just finished a section of ballast and the concept works fine.

Cheers
Marty



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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2014 11:59 am
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gormo
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G`day Folks,
                    Moving right along..!!!....Yesterday I met up with Gary at the model railway exhibition, which he has covered quite well on another thread. During our conversation I mentioned that I was working on uncoupling ramps for the sliding yard, however it was not going well and I felt that I would probably have to " bite the bullet " and buy the standard issue from either Peco or Hornby.

                 Well after a couple of medicinal scotches last night, and a mental break away from the issue, inspiration fell upon me. The problem I was having centred around how to spring the ramp. The solution I have come up with is open cell foam as used in weather strips. It`s 9 mm wide, 6mm thick, grey colour with an adhesive back at a cost of $ 2.90 for 5 metres at Bunnings Hardware.


               The pic below shows the product I am using




      The ramps are made from a soft flexible plastic as found on the covers of A4 loose leaf folders. I have cut the cover into 10 mm strips. These folders are just a few dollars and the two covers will make a lot of ramps




   The ramps require the removal of five sleepers. The foam rubber then sits at baseboard level. If you sit it on top of the sleepers, it sits too high and causes issues for low slung locos. The ramps are held down with one screw and the pressure exerted by the bends in them. They are easily removable or replaceable, however the look of them is not really suited to scenic areas.....that`s another project.
  The first ramp below the coach looks uneven but can easily be bent of flattened. The weight of a wagon will push it down




        The yard fitted out




And a view from the loco end

   

    I have not done the calculations, but  I reckon I could easily make forty of these little suckers for about $ 6.00 or $ 7.00 AUS
     Now to give you a better idea of how this thing works, I have a little video......Enjoy !!!

 Link.....          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1Eui68AlFY





:cheers     Gormo



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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2014 12:07 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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Another elegant solution, Gormo.   :thumbs

Didn't like the sound of the crash at the end of the movie.  :lol:



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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2014 12:52 pm
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gormo
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Thanks Max,
                 I don`t know what that crash was at the end, however no locos were injured in the making of this movie.
:cheers  Gormo



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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2014 04:27 pm
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Just brilliant ! A cheap, affordable alternative to the over-the-counter manufactured uncoupling ramps.

I going to have to start drinking what your drinking Gormo ! :cheers

Cheers, Gary.

 



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 Posted: Sun Jun 8th, 2014 04:42 pm
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gormo
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You shouldn`t drink alone Gary   :It's a no no......I`ll have one with you  :cheers Gormo



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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2014 09:44 am
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Gary
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Just to add to Gormo's clever uncoupling ramps, I found this whilst looking for other alternatives for uncoupling tension lock couplers...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOhNvi2Yfdg&feature=youtu.be

I like it ! Quite a simple solution and can be easily disguised.

Cheers, Gary.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2014 12:16 pm
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gormo
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G`day Folks,
                 Hey Gary....that`s a little beauty.....you won`t believe it, but I was thinking about that same idea this morning whilst in bed and coming out of my nightly coma. I like the barrow crossing, but you wouldn`t want too many of them.......so what if you had the same centre lifting section like the video, but instead of a barrow crossing each time, you could stick on top, a photocopy of a piece of ballasted track. In other words, try and make the lifting section blend in visually. It`s just a thought.......in practice it may not look any good?.
Anyway!!!!.......today I`ve been a creating again.

              Buffer stops this time.........if I keep playing with this fiddle yard long enough, eventually I`m going to launch a loco into space and then wonder why I never sorted out any buffer stops.

             So today I have fitted some. They are quite simple. Some bits of wood and some modified pop rivets. With the rivets....I tap out the pin and grind or file off it`s rounded head...and then tap the pin back in the opposite end  down through the head of the rivet. The pin is now pressure fitted into the head. Then clean it up.....it has to be smooth....and away we go....we have the beginnings of a buffer.

            The timber has to be carefully marked out and drilled. I have deliberately drilled the pilot holes under size so that the rivets have to be tapped into place. It`s like drilling a pilot hole for a nail.

           Anyway......here are some pics.

    Three different buffers to suit three different track set ups.





  This is the very end buffer and shows that I have gone for rivets with a relatively long shank. A shorter shank does not give enough clearance for the coupler,  between the buffer head and the timber block







  This highlights what I was talking about with clearances......this length is just enough.






   The two road set up.






  And what the driver sees on the way into the end of the yard






   So there you go folks........hopefully I have now averted possible future disasters. Bit by bit things are getting done

:cheers   Gormo



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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2014 12:32 pm
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More elegance!  :thumbs



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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2014 01:19 pm
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Gary
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Hi Gormo,

Very neat buffer stops. Again, great thinking by 'The Engineer'. If I need anything engineered, I now know who to turn to ! ;-) 

You're right regarding how many barrow crossings one could have on a layout, and the idea of a ballasted track image on the uncoupler is another great idea. :thumbs

This thought came to me after seeing your buffer stops... 'Spring loaded'. By shortening the fat section of the rivet, a spring from a biro pen or similar, could be slipped over the thinner shank. Put it all back together, but allowing some play in the pilot hole in the timber panel, to allow the shank/buffer to slide. A piece of brass or substitute could be soldered to the end to stop the buffers from coming adrift, acting as a backing plate/retarder.

Like this...

                                     
Cheers, Gary.




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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2014 01:23 pm
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gormo
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  Thank you Max...you are very kind....I`m not sure if these buffers are elegant though???

  Functional maybe and practical....... that`s about all I can say about them.

  Whilst on the subject of buffers.......as all of you would know, pop rivets come in many sizes. I reckon you could work them into scale size without too much trouble and with a bit of filler and some paint, they would scrub up pretty well. There`s some food for thought for you scratch builders out there in model railway land.


  :cheers   Gormo



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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2014 01:31 pm
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Yet another simple but effective idea for the layout from the ' Gormo Engineering Department'. Thanks Brian.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2014 01:35 pm
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Hi Gary, a nice mod to Gormo's buffer stop. You two should go into business, you'd do very well at it I reckon!!



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 Posted: Mon Jun 9th, 2014 01:41 pm
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gormo
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G`day Gary,
                Yes I considered spring loading. It`s quite easy to do, but for a hidden yard, I thought I would just keep it basic. I realize you too can see the potential with rivets. You could make up any sort of buffer you wanted, even those big hydraulic suckers you sometimes see at the end of a terminus platform.
                The method I considered , was to use the stem off a second rivet as a sleeve in the timber. It would be the right size for the rivet pin and should allow it to slide quite easily. Use a spring as you suggested, but at the end of the rivet pin, add a thread for a locking nut and washer to keep everything in place. The nut would allow a certain amount of adjustment as well.
               Obviously, the backing plate you suggested would also work just as well. 
               So you must have been travelling along that parallel track again  :hmm

:cheers   Gormo




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