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Silo HO Scale - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Jan 9th, 2008 02:57 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Bob, they used a conveyor to transport the material to the top. When they wanted to remove it, they used a pitch fork from the bottom access door of the access tower and shoveled it out. Hard work to say the least.

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Jan 9th, 2008 03:06 pm
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Robert
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As you say Wayne, hard work. Not my cup of tea at all. :roll: :wink:



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 Posted: Wed Jan 9th, 2008 03:26 pm
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Wayne Williams wrote:............One question: I intend to shape the outer skin first and then release the inside skin, inside the outer and let it snap in place. Do you think I need to do a lot of surface bonding between the two skins? Or can I just let the solvent seep in from the top and bottom edges?

Wayne


Just a spot or two of solvent around the top and bottom edges should stop the skins moving. Capilliary action will draw enough solvent into the joint to do the job. I can see no advantage in bonding the surfaces thoroughly.

Perry



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 Posted: Wed Jan 9th, 2008 04:37 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Thanks Perry, that will really help in the assembling of the silo. It will aid in the forming of the styrene sheet into a tube too.

I am just about ready to begin making the drawings for the project. I think I have all the details straight in my head on how I want to proceed. I intend to build a dome on the top of the silo also. This should be fun out of plasticard.

I am headed down to see my granddaughter (3 years old), about an hour south of here, this afternoon. It just so happens that there is a nice train store 2 miles from her house. So, well, why not? Since I already have a written list of the missing components for the silo, might as well take advantage of the trip. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Jan 9th, 2008 05:52 pm
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Perry
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How about a section cut from a table tennis ball or something similar for the dome, Wayne? It would save a lot of hard work. :?

Perry



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 Posted: Wed Jan 9th, 2008 05:54 pm
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Robert
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I haven't got a ball to measure but I would think that can't be too far off the correct diameter.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 9th, 2008 08:42 pm
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Petermac
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Wayne - re the concrete panels the silo is made out of, why not, after you've made the initial "tube", cut out the panels - scale size - from very thin styrene and simply glue those to the main tube.

For the dome - if you can find (or make) a (hemi) sphere of the required diameter then take a sheet of styrene, soften it well in hot water, you can simply "press" it onto your "master sphere" until it distorts into the shape of the dome. When it cools, it will retain the impressed shape. Cut off the surplus and hey presto - your dome. It used to work well for making the dome-shaped range finder/radar covers for warships in my model boating days - don't see why it won't work on a larger scale.

Petermac



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 Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 01:56 am
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Wayne Williams
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Wow! Now there's some neat ideas!

First the table tennis ball, I checked, too small! Need a 2" ball.

Petermac Wrote:
re the concrete panels the silo is made out of, why not, after you've made the initial "tube", cut out the panels - scale size - from very thin styrene and simply glue those to the main tube.

Give yourself a smart pat on the back Petermac, that's exactly what I have decided to do. I just got back from the Train Store where I found some .005 Thick Styrene Sheet. This stuff is like, thinner than paper! I intend to adhere it to the outside and inside of the "Tube". I will be posting pictures as I progress. The reason I decided to change direction from scribing to glueing is: I had my grandson take a close up picture of the blocks of the silo, and behold! There is no grout! The blocks are edge to edge, a butt joint! Watch for the picture, coming soon!

As for the Dome and shaping it in Hot Water, interesting concept. If I only had a "Master Sphere" :evil: I won't entirely give up on this. Finding that 2" diameter ball will be the key. I have purchased some styrene strips to make a dome, but as you say, it will be a lot of hard work doing it that way. The dome will be the last item on the build list, so I still have plenty of time yet to look for that magic ball.

I have started the drawing and found out that the attached building is not on the centerline of the silo. :evil: :evil: :evil: Why would anyone build it that way? :roll: :roll: :roll: It is 5 degrees off center line and two feet offset on the diameter of the Silo. I realize it's hard to visualize here, so once I get the drawing done I will try and take a picture of it and get it posted.

Wayne



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 Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 05:05 pm
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Wayne I just measured the tennis balls I use to stop my cars in the garage and they are 2 3/4 ". This is O. D. These are regulation tennis balls.

DAD

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 Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 05:12 pm
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Paul Williams
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Wayne I know you will think of this but why not cut off the tennis ball at the 2" dia. mark. It would still look like a dome.

DAD

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 Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 11:29 pm
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Wayne Williams
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I took a tennis ball and taped it off at the 2" mark and to me it looks flattened, not like a dome. A trip to Walmart yielded no results in the 2" dia. ball market. :evil: :evil: :evil:
Still looking though!

In the mean time, I am making good progress with the drawing. :D :D :D
Might be able to post it tomorrow sometime late.

Wayne



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 Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 04:16 pm
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Perry
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Pet stores often have a good selection of play balls for cats and dogs. As these animals vary so much in size, perhaps the balls do too! :wink:

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 05:44 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Here is the drawing of the silo,I have not added dimensions as yet, but will once I'm sure I have all the details laid out correctly.






I have fore-shortened the height of the silo in the right hand view, not enough room on the paper. :shock: The drawing was done in 2 times HO scale. By blowing it up 2 times size it helps show mistakes :evil: and when I measure the length of a line on the drawing to see how long it is, this will also cut down on tolerance build up.

After I had taken this picture, I was comparing it to the actual photo. I have drawn the silo blocks opposite of what they are on the silo. If you look at the drawing my blocks go up and to the right on the silo. On the actual silo they go up and to the left. :roll: :roll: :roll: Minor error but at least I noticed it now. :shock: (NO, I'm not going to change the drawing) :evil:






This photo shows a cross section of the climbing tower and how I intend to connect the silo edges together. :?

There is a rectangular tube and on the inside of it (inside the silo) is a flat rather thick looking piece, this will be the last part I put on. It is there to replicate the many access openings inside the climbing tower.

I'll start with describing the climbing tower. I am using a 7/16" styrene tube as a basic shape to build on. It will be cut in half vertically. (I'll be glad when that's done :roll: ) Then two flat pieces will be glued to the edges of the tube. Outside of this shape I will probably use some fairly substantial flat stock, maybe .030 or .040 even, will make that decision when I get there. Inside of the tube almost where the two flat legs are added are 2 angle pieces bonded to the tube. These will act as guides to align the tower to the silo.

Now I will jump to the silo itself, there are two angles that will be bonded to the edges of the (flat) silo sheet, just short of the actual edge. The gap between the two angles is 1/4". In that space, is the 1/8" x 1/4" rectangular tube, which will be bonded to the angles. Now against the outside of the rectangular tube is a flat strip of .030 styrene. If you will notice there is a gap between that flat strip and the two angles that are on the inside of the climbing tower (7/16" tube). This gap is my adjustment area to fit the climbing tower to the silo.

To install the climbing tower, it will slide down from the top of the silo. If it is a loose fit I can glue a thin strip of styrene in that gap area to tighten it up some.

Why have the climbing tower removable? Well, I have to put those metal rings around the outside of the silo, and for now all I can come up with that will look somewhat to scale is thread. I will be drilling holes in the rectangular tube at each thread location, to bring the thread out to the backside of the rectangular tube in order to tie them off, and or replace them if they become damaged in the future.

Well, that's the design. If anyone has any better ideas, I did the drawing in pencil not ink! :D :D :D

Wayne



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 Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 05:53 pm
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Perry
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Very impressive drawings and planning, Wayne. I think they show well how forward planning can help one identify any potential problems before they occur.

Did you discount using wire for the rings? Thread would tend to show it's twisted structure, something you wouldn't get with wire.

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 06:51 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Perry, If I can find a thin enough (and cheap) wire I will still consider it. The way the project is designed, both would work fine. My wife does Brazilian Embroidery (Thank God for spell checker!) and she uses silk thread that is so thin, I can't see the twist! At least with thread I can control the color easier. (She has a LOT of thread!) (And you thought model trains were expensive!)

As far as the Dome is concerned, I think I am leaning myself towards trying to build it from flat styrene sheet. That would make a fabulous scratchbuild project all in itself! (Probably would have to show everyone a few failures too):evil:

Wayne



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 Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 06:54 pm
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Robert
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Failures are not always a bad thing Wayne as usually we learn from them. That's how I console myself anyway when things go drastically wrong. :wink:



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 Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 09:11 pm
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Perry
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Wayne Williams wrote:Perry, If I can find a thin enough (and cheap) wire I will still consider it. The way the project is designed, both would work fine. My wife does Brazilian Embroidery (Thank God for spell checker!) and she uses silk thread that is so thin, I can't see the twist! At least with thread I can control the color easier. (She has a LOT of thread!) (And you thought model trains were expensive!)

As far as the Dome is concerned, I think I am leaning myself towards trying to build it from flat styrene sheet. That would make a fabulous scratchbuild project all in itself! (Probably would have to show everyone a few failures too):evil:

Wayne


Multicore electrical cable is available in a multitude of gauges. It shouldn't be too difficult to find some that was suitable. After all, you don't need a large amount and it wouldn't take much to strip a few pieces of scrap cable to find what you want.

Good luck with the scratchbuilt dome! :shock: :shock: :shock: I think you're going to need it. :?

What about using a domed top from a can of shaving cream or deodorant? There is a huge variety of shapes and sizes in the shops.

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 09:29 pm
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Wayne, with regard to building a 2" dome, have you considered papier mache over a card frame? Might work :?



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 Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 10:16 pm
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Petermac
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Wayne - why not shape your dome from a block of balsa wood. Not too difficult - shape it, sand it and treat with either aircraft dope or sanding sealer. You could make it as a "plug-in" dome should you want to remove it for any reason. If the whole thing must be styrene, you could use the balsa dome as a "plug" and use the "hot" styrene emthod I mentioned earlier. I've spoken to a couple of my ex. boat modellers and they say it will work at this size - just a bit more tricky in that you would have to make a temporary "frame" to clamp the soft styrene sheet into so that you can press it over the dome plug.

Petermac.



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 Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 10:21 pm
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Robert
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Good idea, I think part of the art of scratchbuilding is to press into service anything that comes to hand, ideas or materials.



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