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| Silo HO Scale - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club | ||||||||||
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Wayne Williams Member 
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Here is a picture of the Silo. It's about 14.5 ft. in dia. by 45 feet tall. The attached building is now the summer bedroom for the oldest grandson while he's home from college. We even put him in a bathroom! It's going to be my next project, just have to decide how to proceed. :? :? :? Wayne  ____________________ My Layout "The South Shore Line": http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21 |
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Perry Erstwhile scratchbuilder 
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I sat for a moment taking in the details of the silo and found that a construction plan has already started to form in my head.  I won't spoil things by indicating how I would tackle it though. As I have said before there is no 'right way' or 'wrong way' to do it, so I'm intrigued to see how you tackle it. I'm happy to help if asked, but I'm not going to interfere. :wink: Perry ____________________ Due to cutbacks, the light at the end of the tunnel has been switched off. |
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phill Hello 
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Are my eyes decieving me or is the camera angle to blame but is the silo leaning to the right. If so that make it interesting to do. I have a idea on what the silo would be made of for me but wont say, its a cheat anyhow :D . Phill |
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Perry Erstwhile scratchbuilder
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I think the apparent 'lean' is due to the camera angle and slight distortion of the image. There is no such thing as a cheat, Phill. :wink: If something can be pressed into service as part of model then why not? :D Don't forget the advice; 'Never throw anything away'! My Water Softening Plant uses a section of cardboard tube as a core, even though it's covered with plastikard. (Hint, hint!) Perry ____________________ Due to cutbacks, the light at the end of the tunnel has been switched off. |
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phill Hello
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Well ok i say this once then, i have a large round shampoo bottle nice and well its ready for my chimney build, built how do i get plaster to stick well i let you know when i do :D :D Phill |
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Matt Former Member
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how about a pringles tube, looks about the right size. then a smarties tube for the smaller piece. | |||||||||
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Petermac Moderator 
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I seem to recall you said it was about 16ft diameter Wayne ? That's about 2.5 inches in "00" - or ? in "H0". Do you have any toilet paper rolls left over from your outhouse project ? I think they're probably around 2.5 inches - plastikard discs as "formers" then the plating in thin card/thick paper ? Looks like a mighty big cropstore (silo) but it'll be both fun and another challenge to build. Petermac ____________________ 'Petermac |
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rector Now where did I put that...? 
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phill wrote:Are my eyes decieving me or is the camera angle to blame but is the silo leaning to the right.Perhaps your promotion is affecting your judgement, Phill :!:  :wink:
____________________ Tim. Cleric and artist, finding his railway modelling stuff after too long in the wilderness. |
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Gwent Rail Former Member
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Blinded by the shiny star he's been given, that's what has happened. 
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Wayne Williams Member
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Oh come on guys! Don't hold back on me now! Not when I need you! Spill the beans, Please? Actual scale size is 1.96 inches in Diameter by 6.20 inches high. Thoughts: 1. Thin wall PVC tubing 2. Plain styrene sheet around .020 thick. Formed around a mandrel with angle bonded at the edges, to hold the edges together and to attach the rings to. The angles would be hidden inside the climbing tower, so it wouldn't be seen. Still trying to come up with a way to make the surface look like the prototype. I'll take all the help I can get! Wayne ____________________ My Layout "The South Shore Line": http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21 |
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Perry Erstwhile scratchbuilder
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I would go for Option 2, Wayne. I would use a 'core' made from whatever I could lay my hands on that was the right size. Then I would use some .010" plain plastikard to wrap around it, but before doing this and whilst it was still a flat sheet, I would scribe in the vertical joints and then the alternating horizontal ones. Perry ____________________ Due to cutbacks, the light at the end of the tunnel has been switched off. |
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Wayne Williams Member
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Perry, I agree! Now that, that is said, I tried bending .012 styrene sheet and it seemed to be too flexible to hold the shape. Of course I am only trying to bend it with my hands, so maybe it would bend OK over a mandrel. You said "Scribe" the joints in place. I was thinking the same thing, but had a concern about the thickness being too thin for scribing. What tool would you use to scribe in the joints? Should I just try and scratch the surface or actually cut it? Please keep in mind that I "May" also scribe the inside as well, since this will have a removable top. The reason for the removable top is, the kids have poured a concrete floor in the bottom of the silo and have installed a hammock. They actually sleep there many nights during the summer months. Kids, go figure! I am working on a joint detail sketch for joining the circle together. I will be posting it very soon. Wayne ____________________ My Layout "The South Shore Line": http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21 |
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MikeC Former Member
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These days you can get slim aerosol deodorant cans that might be helpful. My dad has used about five for his cement works. Maybe you could encase one in DAS clay and scribe the surface. Mike |
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Robert Deceased Member 
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Just a few questions. What's the tower actually made of? Is there an inner skin with what we are looking at an outside cladding? What's the shape and purpose of the structure attached at the rear, and is it of the same construction?
____________________ The time in Spain is : Barchester |
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Perry Erstwhile scratchbuilder
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Wayne Williams wrote:Perry, I agree! You are quite correct, it won't hold it's shape by itself. It will ideally need a former of some sort that you can leave in place to support it, although you could dispense with this if it will spoil the look of the finished model. If you're using material as thin as .010" for the wrap-around I strongly advise that you don't scribe it on both sides. It's too thin and may well fall apart. A way around this might be to laminate an 'inner' and an 'outer' surface together with the respective detail scribed on each layer. To scribe the joints you will need a metal 'scriber' (surprise, surprise!) of whatever shape you choose. Hardware stores sell very cheap miniature screwdrivers that are naff all use for driving screws, but make wonderful scribers. The reason for this is that they have nice little plastic handles and fairly soft steel shafts. If you have access to a small grinding wheel it will only take a few seconds to grind the end to whatever shape you want. Otherwise you will need to spend a few minutes with a file to get the required profile. You can choose a 'V' shape, a 'U' shape, or any shape that takes your fancy (within reason). Keep it sharp by giving it a few touches of a file every so often and go slowly. Take several passes with the scraper to reach the required depth, rather than trying to gouge it out in one go. Use a steel ruler to guide the scraper. Do a trial run or two on some scrap styrene of the chosen thickness before you attack the model itself. It may save material, money and your temper. :wink: Perry ____________________ Due to cutbacks, the light at the end of the tunnel has been switched off. |
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Wayne Williams Member
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OK, first Bob: The silo is made from concrete block, each block is about 10" wide by 30" high. The concrete block thickness is about 4" and this is the only structure for the silo. That means that the inside looks the same as the outside. The attached structure is completely different. It is a wood built structure with wood siding and a sheet metal roof, the structure sits on top of two coarse of concrete blocks. It's purpose originally, I don't really know, probably just a storage shed. Now it's been converted to my grandson's summer cottage, which is how I intend to model it. Perry, Thanks, I have a pointed scribe that I will try, but from your description I will probably have to look for a different tool to do the job. I will take your advice about not scribing the styrene on both sides. That makes good sense to me. It will actually help solve one other problem I have been having too. By adding an interior skin, I can cut out the access holes in that skin, that are behind the climbing tower, much more realistic that way. There are wooden (removable) access panels every two feet going up the silo. I will now be able to laminate a wood decal on the inside of the outer skin that will show through the cutouts of the inner skin, thus looking like those panels. :D I was intending to post a few cross sections of the styrene silo joint, but now with an inside skin I must rethink them. This is not a bad thing, because I like the direction this is heading. One question: I intend to shape the outer skin first and then release the inside skin, inside the outer and let it snap in place. Do you think I need to do a lot of surface bonding between the two skins? Or can I just let the solvent seep in from the top and bottom edges? Wayne ____________________ My Layout "The South Shore Line": http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21 |
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darrenscots Member 
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Dwayne, see the attached link re the use of PVC pipe for a silo (this material also can be scribed): http://www.trainorders.com/discussion/read.php?3,1497152 ____________________ Darren |
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Robert Deceased Member
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I didn't mean the little house type building Wayne. It's what appears to be a back to back silo or maybe something slightly smaller diameter, same height, same construction. My eyes can't be that bad surely?
____________________ The time in Spain is : Barchester |
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Wayne Williams Member
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Sorry Bob, I completely misunderstood your question. What you are looking at in the picture is an access "tunnel". You can enter it from the ground (inside the building) and climb up on vertical steps, every two feet or so going up there is a wooden access door that can be removed so you can see inside the silo. Not sure what they are used for other than inspection of the silo's contents. Anyway, lets call the structure the access tower, and it's made from exactly the same concrete blocks as the silo has, only thinner in thickness, about 2" thick I believe. Upon inspection of the photograph, I now see that it has those same metal bars going around it too.  Now I've got to come up with a way to attach them also. I need to get better with my "To Do List". Hope that answered your question Bob. Wayne ____________________ My Layout "The South Shore Line": http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21 |
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Robert Deceased Member
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Thanks Wayne, I know what I am looking at now. Never having come into contact with such a thing could you tell me how they get the fodder in there as it's not obvious from the picture, how it comes out as well and in what form?
____________________ The time in Spain is : Barchester |
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