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Building the Scalescenes T008 Low-relief House Backs - Scalescenes Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Mar 16th, 2013 03:41 pm
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Perry
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Building the Scalescenes T008 Low-relief House Backs

Needing some buildings to form the backscene to my extended shunting puzzle layout, and wanting some means of producing them quickly, easily, and relatively cheaply, I decided to use the new Scalescenes T008 Low-relief House Backs kit.

This would make the building of a whole terraced row about a metre or so long an attainable target.

I may decide to break up the run of buildings into smaller blocks, only some of which will have the outhouses (T008a) added for variety.

First, I printed some windows from page 3 of the kit onto Ryman P1 adhesive A4 label sheets, and then cut out the windowpanes before sticking them onto an A4 inkjet transparent sheet. I didn’t count them exactly; I just filled up the transparency with mainly the  ‘Medium’ windows and a smaller number of the ‘Small’ windows. Cutting the windowpanes out carefully with a sharp blade against a metal ruler, I made sure that the blade was always on the waste side of the ruler. This helps prevent damage to a wanted part if the blade should accidentally deviate and also stops the adhesive layer ‘rucking up’, which can be caused by the slight dragging of the blade as the cut is made. The preparation of the windows is no small task. Given that I plan to build a row of about 14 (or more) semi-detached houses, each with 5 windows, I will require at least 70 windows in total. Each window frame requires 8 knife cuts, making a total of a minimum of 560 individual cuts! I can already see that this build is going to be a fairly mammoth task.Photo's of my progress, which is likely to be painfully slow, will follow in due course.


Perry



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 Posted: Sat Mar 16th, 2013 03:58 pm
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col.stephens
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Sounds interesting.  Looking forward to the photos.

Terry

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 Posted: Sun Mar 17th, 2013 10:59 am
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Perry
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With a little bit of cutting and juggling, I have managed to get just over 100 windows on one A4 inkjet transparency sheet. Not too tidy, but effective. Each frame has to be cut out individually anyway.



I've got a few more in reserve as I don't know exactly how many of each I'm going to need yet.

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Mar 17th, 2013 07:50 pm
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Petermac
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Well now, there's a turn up for the book. :shock:  Perry foresaking plastic in favour of card.  You'll have me modelling GWR next .......:shock::shock::lol::lol:

As I'm slowly, (very slowly), working my way through a row of houses/shops from the same stable,  I'm going to really enjoy watching this Perry. :thumbs

One question immediately springs to mind. :roll:  I understand what you mean about the knife "dragging" but if you keep the blade on the waste side of the ruler, doesn't that mean the ruler covers what you're cutting out ?  If so, how do you know when your cut is long enough and/or in the right place ?

p.s. Great to see you back in action.......:doublethumb  How are the eyes ?



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 Posted: Sun Mar 17th, 2013 08:07 pm
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Robert
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Marvellous to have you back again Perry and modelling to boot. Like Peter really going to be watching this one but also like Peter I have to ask about the eyes.



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 Posted: Sun Mar 17th, 2013 08:10 pm
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Sol
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And I have those to build as well so one thread really to watch.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2013 08:24 am
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Perry
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Petermac wrote: .........One question immediately springs to mind. :roll:  I understand what you mean about the knife "dragging" but if you keep the blade on the waste side of the ruler, doesn't that mean the ruler covers what you're cutting out ?  If so, how do you know when your cut is long enough and/or in the right place ?...

The ruler does indeed cover the part being cut out, but I can mark the extent of the cut on the waste piece with the knife point before putting the ruler in place. It works for me.

Perry



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 Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2013 08:35 am
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Perry
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Thanks for the kind words, gents. I haven't really been away; I've looked in on here occasionally - just to see what's going on.

As for the eyes, I'm tending to work using one of those table-mounted illuminated magnifying glasses. It sometimes gets in the way of the tools a bit, but I'm getting used to it.

The hands, however, are another story, and that's why this build may take a while. On bad days, arthritis all but prevents my thumbs from gripping anything but on better days I can still do a bit of modelling whilst munching a few painkillers. Not ideal, but better than not doing any modelling at all.

As far as the low-relief kits are going, I've just reached the stage of joining the floor/ceiling assemblies to the centre walls and have hit a slight snag. I cut the halving slots out according to the printed markings but perhaps my 'medium card' is slightly thicker than 1mm. The result is that I'm having to cut all the slots slightly wider. No big drama, but it's taught me that I should test one assembly before cutting the other eleven!

More pictures later.

Perry




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 Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2013 08:58 am
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Petermac
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Thanks Perry - why didn't I think of that ...................:thud

I had exactly the same problem with my terraces regarding the slot for the floors.  It's not an easy task to correct because there are so many slots the floor has to sit in.

I tried an "assembly line" system - cut all the inner wall panels, stick them all on then just slot the floors in ..................:roll::roll::roll:

I was extremely impressed by both the weight and the strength of these kits.

There's more to this lark that a tube of glue and a knife.........:oops::oops:

Re the hands - spring is on the way so hopefully, things might improve a bit with the dryer, warmer weather ...............:roll:



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 Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2013 11:11 am
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Hi, Perry, nice to see you about the bazaar, may be of interest, I 'reviewed' this kit by way of a three-part article here

https://www.model-railways-live.co.uk/Articles/269-16/Structures_and_Scenics/Cardboard_Modelling_the_Scalescenes_Way_by_Doug_Dickson_-_making_openings_cutting_and_folding

The other two parts are in successive months.

Doug



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 Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2013 09:46 pm
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Wish i had spotted that before i made a few up.   Turned out quite nice ,but ask me who forgot to put curtains up.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2013 10:41 pm
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Petermac
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OK, if you insist.  Who forgot to put curtains up Reg ?  :mutley



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 Posted: Fri Mar 22nd, 2013 10:41 am
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I've recently bought this kit for use on my Market Havering layout so I'll be interested to see how you get on.

Let's see plenty of progress pics please Perry.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 22nd, 2013 01:52 pm
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Perry
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One can see clearly the amount that I needed to enlarge the width of the slots. The right-hand part is cut as per the printed markings. The left-hand one is cut to fit! Obviously the thickness of the card I am using is too great. I'm currently thinking about binning those that I have cut wider and re-making the parts from a thinner card; possibly with a cover layer on each side.




I'm concerned that enlarging the slots may displace some other parts later on.

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Mar 22nd, 2013 02:42 pm
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Is this a GWR layout Perry :lol:, because you know it makes sense to do  GWR one, :Happy

Phill

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 Posted: Fri Mar 22nd, 2013 03:12 pm
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Perry
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phill wrote: Is this a GWR layout Perry :lol:, because you know it makes sense to do  GWR one, :Happy

Phill

You never give up, do you, Phill? :roll::lol::lol:

No, it's the same layout and it hasn't moved regionally or geographically. Nor is it likely to.

Nice to hear from you though. :doublethumb

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Mar 22nd, 2013 03:50 pm
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I can not give up mate, its my calling to convert all of you sinners and make you see the GWR light :doublethumb:cheers

Phill

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 Posted: Fri Mar 22nd, 2013 06:50 pm
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Perry
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After a little bit of tinkering about, I've made a decision and have binned the double-thickness floor/ceiling assemblies. I have made some new ones from a single thickness of card with a cover layer glued either side. I still need to cut the slots in them very slightly wider than the printed markings to accommodate the Centre Wall assemblies, but at least all the other parts should fit OK. My card was a little too thick and it's a very hard, rigid card too.

Only a small amount of card and printed material have been wasted plus a little bit of time, but I feel it's worth getting these early stages as right as I can. If I start the build wrong, it may be hard to recover it later.

Perry



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 Posted: Tue Apr 9th, 2013 02:37 pm
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I think you have made the right decision by doing that, I find these kits do have a bit of lee way built in but the nearer you are to the correct card thickness the better the fit of all the parts.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 10th, 2013 04:20 am
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... and you have always been able to bin something that just doesn't feel right in the past. A sound practice that I find difficult to follow but the quality of your scratch builds compared to mine says it all. :cool:
I do hope you are managing to progress the project despite the challenges you have been presented with. The record of your builds on this forum are some of my main scratch building reference tutorials.
cheersMarty



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