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The Village Shoppes In Plasticard And HO Scale - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Oct 24th, 2012 07:07 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Summer is over and it's time to get back into scratch building. I don't see many people on here anymore that build in plasticard, so maybe this will encourage some of you to give it a try. It was on this forum right here that I learned how to do this, so I will now extend that courtesy on to you. I didn't want to make this a monthly project, because more than likely it will take a couple or more months to complete it, and that is if I can stay right on it.

This first photo is of the prototype, and that is my Dad standing there in front. I used him as a measuring stick in the picture. As I have later learned he should have been standing right up against the wall for that to work properly. Had he been right us against the building it would have worked perfectly.





This is the front wall (on the right), rear wall (middle), and right hand side wall ( left one) of "The Village Shoppes in New Carlisle. I haven't decided just how I'm going to make the right hand wall, because it's in the middle of the complex. There will be a wall, but not sure just yet how I'm going to integrate it into the design. All of the windows will be hand built. I really like to use boughten ones, but they are just not available in these sizes.

Each wall section will have at least three layers, more for strength than anything else, but I will use them to construct the windows to give them a three dimensional look. It is difficult to see here but the red sheets are brick embossed and the one on the right side in the middle (vertically) is like a clapboard design. That middle piece is the lower floor of the front, and as you can see I am missing several windows and doors. I'm still deciding how I want to construct them. Maybe on the next installment I'll have them in place.

The depth of the building is 4", and if I were to make it to scale it would have been closer to 7", but I just don't have room on the layout for that kind of depth.

At least things are progressing again.
Wayne








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 Posted: Wed Oct 24th, 2012 08:21 pm
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New members should watch this thread.  If Wayne's earlier efforts are any guide, this will be another cracker.

The facade reminds me of the Old Republic in some ways, Wayne.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 24th, 2012 09:35 pm
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When I first opened the page, I too thought of the Old Republic because only the eaves were visible untill I scrolled down a bit..............

As Max says, this will be worth following .......:thumbs:thumbs

You've picked another great looking subject Waye - not your Dad (although I'm sure he is) - I meant the "Shoppes"  :cheers



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 Posted: Thu Oct 25th, 2012 12:02 pm
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Wayne Williams
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The facade does look similar to The Old Republic, though much more detail is under the over hang of the roof. Speaking of detail, look at the building adjacent to it, that is the next build. :shock:

Every one of these type builds brings different problems to the table. You would think after doing a project like The Old Republic you would know how to do anything that is thrown your way, not true. This one has large picture windows in the front with pillar type posts on the outside corners. No room to mount the windows. The pillars are set back into the wall, almost like they actually cut out a linear section at the back, not easy for any of us to cut out a slice from a styrene rod, top to bottom.

So the thinking cap is on, lets wait and see what comes out.

Wayne



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 Posted: Thu Oct 25th, 2012 01:02 pm
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Wayne Williams wrote: .......................................................... Speaking of detail, look at the building adjacent to it, that is the next build. :shock:

So this is just an easy dry run before you tackle something worth doing then ?    :lol::lol::lol::lol:

  ...........................................................not easy for any of us to cut out a slice from a styrene rod, top to bottom..................

But you're not just "any of us" Wayne - you're Wayne Williams, the "mystic in plastic" ...........:thumbs





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 Posted: Thu Oct 25th, 2012 07:46 pm
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Wayne Williams
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I think your painting a picture I'm not in Peter, but thanks for the vote of confidence anyway.

Wayne



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 Posted: Fri Oct 26th, 2012 09:49 am
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peterbunce
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Hi Wayne,

Both your buildings are a good looking pair of 'Victoriana' - with plenty of gingerbread detail.


There are a couple more photos on the web - at

http://brianbutko.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/in_arick_newcarlislemainst.jpg?w=450&h=283

and

http://www.thevillageshoppes.com/publishImages/Contact_Us_2~~element33.jpg


One shows the now removed decoration on the next door building with the bay window - that is very like the buildings in Ferndale California. (put into Google 'New Carlisle Indiana', and scroll down to a postcard view in 'images' not very large but it gives a good idea. There is another and better view in the 'look inside' section of Amazon.com, on the 'Arcadia publishing' book on New Carlisle, in their 'Images of America' series.

A mural of your building is shown at

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21055823@N07/6063483259/

painted on brick

The next door building  I suspect  has a cast iron front?


You will need a good support for that bay window!


Thanks for the post, and the images that I found from it.


Yours Peter.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 26th, 2012 06:56 pm
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I'm watching !!!!!
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 Posted: Fri Oct 26th, 2012 10:22 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Wow, Peter those links have better pictures than I have. Thank you very much for them.

What makes you think that the next door store front is made from cast iron?

One of your links had a post card photo of the building, only then it was a drug store. That is what I remember while growing up. it brought back a lot of memories.

I worked on it a little bit today,but I am having issues with sizing all that glass in the front of the store. I need to be able to hold the window glass in place without using a lot of structure around the edges.

I have some ideas, but I am hesitant to put the knife to the plastic just yet.

Wayne



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 Posted: Sat Oct 27th, 2012 11:02 am
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Hi Wayne,

Glad to help re the links: - I was talking about the building (now minus its triangular top),  the decoration around the top particularly  is what suggested the cast iron possibility.

You in the USA, have a lot of them, here Glasgow has a good selecction, cast iron was also used for large store fronts as well.

One in the UK is Arighi Bianchi and there are many others

The advantages were that onve the patterns are made they can be reproduced time & time again very cheaply. With care they will last a very long time.

Having again trawled through the web, here are some more links for you -

http://ww2.hdnux.com/photos/06/77/25/1832297/5/628x471.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/rpdoody/portland_old_town

http://www.flickr.com/photos/iowa4square/3600371109/

http://larryeifert.com/About_Eifert/Eifert-Gallery.html

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gotmesker/2843530455/

http://meskerbrothers.wordpress.com/2011/10/12/dont-faint-its-just-paint/

The last one is very interesting they built the Opera hose facade in Ouray, Colo., and another identical one in Illinois as well.

Silverto Colo. also has a fancy front om a cafe as well - thats Natailias -

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14965342@N06/8084801908/


You will gather I like architecture and Western style best - that is as a result of my railroad!

Enjoy the above!

Re your Shop windows - mine are much larger I agree, but see if you can but some jewel cases for CD's the clear ones  they are styrene so be careful with the cement but are quite strong - I use those for my purposes they are just the right size - you will be cutting then - score both sides well and you then can 'snap' them at the score line quite easily - try it out on an ols one and see if they will help.

Here is one of my fronts with large windows - usiing the CD cases




 
Yours Peter



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 Posted: Sat Oct 27th, 2012 07:59 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Peter,
They sure made some ornate looking buildings back then didn't they? To bad the other buildings in town weren't the same configuration. I would make a mold to reproduce it.

I did not get a chance to work on the project today, life got in the way.
Maybe on Monday.

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Oct 31st, 2012 06:31 pm
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Wayne Williams
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I managed to get just a little bit done today. These front store windows are giving me fits. I decided to start with the stores entrance door. It is set back into the building and the two walls that go back out to the front windows also have windows in them. The corner posts are the only structure on the corners and also have to hold the windows.

I decided to place two round rods on the inside of the entrance door which provided a place to adhere a very small channel. The channel will hold the window glass. In the second photo you can see the channels, the one on the right side is slightly off kilter, as far as it's rotation is concerned. Once it is in place I don't think it will be seen at all. There is quite a bit of room for the glass so it being rotated won't bother that either.

In the third picture the end wall of the building is taking shape. The notch in the white piece (floor) on the left side is the recess for the entrance door. The outside corner of the building doesn't have much room to get in there and work on the window glass. In reality that area is about the size of my index finger.

This is slow going, only because I am hesitant on how I'm going to install the store front windows. Once I am past that point things should start moving along a bit better.

Wayne









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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2012 10:17 am
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Hi Wayne,
Your side window looks good; the others should be the same I am sure; can they be built up on the clear styrene sheet with either 'no fog' superglue, or on the reverse of the pieces on top of the 'glass' add the glue which could be the semi viscous styrene glue- I use the Revell stuff and find it quite good

Another choice may be a coat of varnish to act as a glue, or used sparingly with a very thin layer, clear epoxy?

The pillars are thin but the rest should be OK as there is a much greater glue area, the assembly can be held together temporarily, in the vertical position (with top and bottom pieces as templates to hold in position), with bluetak, on a board perhaps?

Yours Peter.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2012 06:55 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Peter,
I have been stung so many times by finger prints, spots, you name it, on window glazing, I decided to do it another way. Maybe I am just too clumsy or poor work habits, I don't know, but I am tired of windows I can't see into. So these windows (most of them anyway) will be replaceable If I dirty them up.

Now for an update!


The end wall of the village Shoppes needed to be reinforced so it would not warp (famous last words), plus I needed to be able to add the window glazing and mullions. The black styrene was used so if I decide to add lighting to the shoppes the structure will not "glow" in the dark. I will still have to paint black, the areas around the windows though.

Notice the white strips (.015 thick) on top of the black piece in the first photo, the gaps between each one, where the windows are at least, create a thin channel so I can slide in the window glazing. The pieces are upside down in that picture, wasn't paying too much attention when I took it.

The white thread on the right side still needs to be trimmed at the outer edge. I just lay down the thread as tight as I can hold it and dab on the solvent. It melts into the styrene and holds the thread in place.

The last photo shows the wall now complete and bonded together, minus the window glazing that is. You may notice the bottom corner window is trapped by the white styrene strip and cannot be slid down from the top. I have a different idea on how to install the glazing for the front store windows. So stay tuned, this may or may not work, should be interesting at the least.
Wayne







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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2012 09:35 am
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I really like that thread idea for the windows, they look very good Wayne.   (In fact I'll try it for my "N" scale buildings which hitherto I've always done by scribing the frames straight onto the perspex or celluloid etc.).

Ken.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2012 11:36 am
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Nice Wayne, good to see a bit of scratch building on here, with this project and the November project bridge. I am building a low relief warehouse too in embossed plastic, which I have to say is my favoured medium. On cast iron, last time I was in New York I learned that many of the facades and columns on the old buildings were made of cast iron and in fact on close inspection you could see some rust streaks here and there. I like your approach to the doorway, very effective.

Bob

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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2012 06:53 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Ken,
Glad you like the idea on using thread for the window mullions. You might want to take a look at the scratch building thread on my "Old Republic." It has an in depth look at the same thing.

Here is the link (if I did it right)
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=7529&forum_id=14

Bob, (Novice)
I will have to remember to add some rust streaks down the front of the building when I weather it. As far as the doorway goes, I didn't have much choice in the matter. I just could not come up with an alternative to construct it.

I thought about buying one of those clamping fixtures they sell for model building, but I don't know if they are capable of holding something as small as these pillars. If not then it would be a waste of money in my opinion.

Now for an update.

Not too bad of a day today. Managed to start the second entrance to The Village Shoppes. The first photo shows a little bit on how I am assembling the pieces. I try to keep those pillars vertical, not an easy task, as I cannot attach them to the base just yet, so the only thing holding them to the door wall is that small strip of styrene at the bottom of the pillars. Obviously I have to let this set up some before I can slide in the top pieces.

The second pictures shows the upper pieces slid in place and drying. The end wall of the store is just setting there, actually more like leaning there. The entrances must not be attached to anything until the entire front is done. Mainly because of those pesky front store windows. Just not much room to get in there.

In the last picture you can see some pencil parks between the entrance doors, that is another door that goes up a staircase to the upstairs. The ticklish thing here is the measurements. Each store front window is the same size, even those in the entryway. So trying to get everything spaced properly and leave enough room for that door and stay within the width of the building is making me buggy eyed.

This being a store, I feel compelled to put in shelves, cases, that sort of thing on the inside. Just some more to think about so I leave access to get it done.

Wayne










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 Posted: Sun Nov 4th, 2012 12:05 am
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I am glad it is you doing that Wayne, not me!



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 Posted: Wed Nov 7th, 2012 07:13 pm
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Wayne Williams
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I finally was able to spend some time working on the Village Shoppes again. The outer skin, of the first floor, of the front of the Village Shoppes, is finally all cut out. It is very flimsy at this point, as you can imagine with all of those hinge points. It will be like this for awhile longer, at least until I can add the top floor and it's front wall. I am hesitant to bond it to the base just yet (maybe even never), that would really stiffen it up though.

I am getting a little bit of warping, not too bad at this point, but I will have to keep an eye on it. With all the flex it has I am not too worried about it. It is quite easy to move it around anywhere I want it.

All of the store front windows are framed in. The frames are 1/16" styrene channels cut and notched at each end. It took the better part of 2 hours to make them all (32 pieces).

I think I will give my fingers a break.

Wayne







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 Posted: Fri Nov 9th, 2012 07:57 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Today, I just said, "OK it's time to make this thing so it won't flex so much". Here is the result. There has been a snubbed floor bonded in place, that held the bottom shape very well. Then I attached the end wall, something I really didn't want to do so early on, but I had no choice in the matter. It needed to be there to control the flex. then I added a shortened ceiling that enclosed the two entryways. I made it fairly deep so it would hold the store front straight. In the end this will be part of the second story floor.

The short floor will work out nicely for some of the interior furnishings. I can now actually bond them in and still remove the assembly from the base itself. I think that will be a benefit further down the road, but my chess abilities never were very good. So I will have to wait and see what move my opponent will throw at me next week.

The whole thing, minus the base of course, can now be held and it is very stiff, which is a good thing at this point. The windows will be a bit more finicky, but still manageable.

The second photo shows the assembly slid back a few inches on the base, so you can see what I am now working with. At some point (and I was at that point) you just have to take the next step, regardless of the consequences. So I did, and at this stage I believe it was the right decision.

All in all, it was a productive day. You need those once in awhile!

Wayne







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