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L&N GP 40-2 - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Oct 6th, 2012 01:05 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Thank you, Ian.  :roll:



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 Posted: Sat Oct 6th, 2012 09:13 am
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Petermac
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There hasn't been a post on this thread since ..................................:shock::shock::shock::roll::roll::roll::mutley:mutley:mutley

I did see it on the other thread - amazing !!!  I wonder who tested that the first time around ? :hmm



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 Posted: Sun Oct 7th, 2012 12:30 am
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Iansa
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I don't know who did it first but I first learn't about in 1985 when I was racing 1/10 scale electric powered ( ni-cad batteries) Radio controled model cars.

 Cheers

  Ian



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 Posted: Sun Oct 7th, 2012 03:23 am
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Meanwhile . . . back at the ranch . . . Tonto, disguised as a door - has his . . .

The next job is to prepare the daughter board (ESU Part # 51968), by soldering the requisite wires to it.



This is the reverse side which will be fixed to the ceiling (deckhead, for those Navy types).  The front of the loco is to the right, so you've got Green (Aux 1), Purple (Aux 2), Pink (Aux 3), Turquoise (Aux 4), White (Headlight), and two Blue (+), return for the other 5.  One short one will go to the roof beacon and the long one will go to the others.

I'll probably map the two ditch lights to Green and Purple, the Mars light to Pink and the beacon to Turquoise; as is my habit.

The ones going to the rear are Red and Black (Right and Left wheel pickups), Orange and Grey (motor), Yellow (Rear light), and another white to supply the two rear marker lamps.  Then we have two brown speaker wires and once again a Blue (+), return.

The wires are soldered in place and then secured with PVA glue which will dry clear.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 7th, 2012 07:20 am
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Petermac
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That's a masrerful bit of soldering and routing Max. :thumbs

Do you buy a board with all the "gubbins" mounted but without any wires ?  What "help" do you give your eyes when working on such tiny things ?

One tiny slip with the soldering iron and that's no supper for a fortnight .................:shock::shock::shock:



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 Posted: Sun Oct 7th, 2012 08:01 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Hi Peter

The board comes with a basic set of wires, then I add the speaker wires, the pink and turquoise and the extra blues and the white.

The pads are pretty big - bigger than the tip of my iron.  Sometimes I look through the magnifier lamp to make sure I haven't left any dags shorting across, but it's usually no trouble.

I've got a resin stick like a marker pen which helps things, but if I'm a bit unsure, I'll gently scratch the surface of the pads before I give it a bit of a rub with the resin.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 7th, 2012 09:45 am
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Petermac
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What's a "resin stick" ? :oops::oops::oops:

I normally use a multi-core solder - can't remember exactly what and it's up in the attic.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 7th, 2012 09:52 am
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MaxSouthOz
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A resin stick looks like a Texta marker pen with a felt tip - except resin comes out instead of ink.

I use resin core solder as well, but for high reliability joins I use the resin stick.



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 Posted: Fri Oct 12th, 2012 07:55 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Now all of the wires are connected to their respective LEDs - except for the beacon which will be connected up as I insert the harness.

Each LED/resistor combo is tested individually before being added.  The little 1.8 red LED is standing in for the beacon which has been CA glued to the roof already.

Before I start fitting the harness, I have to test everything to make sure it all works before it's all glued in.



I have another shipment of speakers coming, so an old ESU one will do for the test.  Once the cube speakers arrive from Canada, I can attach them and begin to fit it all into the body shell.



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 Posted: Fri Oct 12th, 2012 08:24 am
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Petermac
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That looks suitably complicated Max. :shock::shock:

Is the motor mounted on plastic in the loco ?  If not, how do you isolate it - wrap it with tape or is there some other "clever" way of doing it ?



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 Posted: Fri Oct 12th, 2012 12:49 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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That's just a test motor, Peter.  The motor in the loco isn't insulated from the frame.  It's insulated internally.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2012 12:30 am
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Iansa
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I may be off beam here but if we are talking isolating the motor from the frame of the loco for DCC purposes that is a bit of a myth.

What must be isolated from the frame is the motor brushes.

 There where some locos that one of the brushes was connected to the frame which often made it dificult to isolate.

 Most locos these days have can type motors in which both motor brushes are isolated from the metal casing of the motor and can be connected to decoder without any connection to the frame.

 If the motor body touches the frame won't matter.

 Cheers

  Ian



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 Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2012 07:31 am
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Petermac
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You're "on beam" Ian. :thumbs

It's just me confusing matters .............:roll::roll:

I realise now that the motor body must be insulated from the brushes - otherwise you'd have an "interesting" effect when you turn on the power ...............:shock:

My depth of knowledge regarding DCC is growing all the time - but only slowly ...................:cry::cry:



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