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Rail joiner Fishplate tool you can ,make easily - Hints & Tips - Reference Area. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2012 06:50 pm
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upnick
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Hi  All,   

This tool   can be made  in any gauge  ........  i  hope you  find it  useful. 

Have you ever tried putting on rail joiners/fishplates with difficulty ?

This tool helps a lot ...... you need a short length of rail with one end filed square with no burrs for the joiner end ...... a length of brass tubing for the rail to go in .... an inside diameter of tubing slightly smaller than is better for a good fit ..... file the top of the rail to size to fit in.

Leave the rail half a joiners length protuding ....... slide in the tube & drop of superglue will hold the rail in place as here ..... though i am going to run a bead of epoxy around for better adhesion & fill the gap in the tube,   although  as was pointed out to me  solder takes well  to  both materials  if  prerped well   &   provides a better join.

Now its all ready to use no misaligned joiners on your track laying



This picture  shows  the rail   placed in the tube with a joiner on  to  test for positioning of the rail  before fixing,  &   is also  a double ended   tool   catering for both  OO  &   N   scales.

An adaptation  to making the tool   is make the  rail long enough to put  a   bend  in it  so making it  easier to   put  joiners on  already laid rail in  tight places of a layout.

I  Believe this  second  type below   has a bend in the rail  along  with  the nearest size of Heatshrink   shrunk   over the  brass  tube to provide a   comfy  grip  & prevent any   shorts  across the track  should you leave the tool  on the layout ;-)



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2012 08:45 pm
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Chubber
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Hi Nick, if you curve your gadget like this, you can put a fishplate onto a piece of track that is already stuck down without banging into adjacent track....



 

Doug



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2012 10:02 pm
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Ianbo
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Why are all the best ideas so simple:brickwall



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 Posted: Tue Aug 7th, 2012 10:08 pm
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ddolfelin
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Good to see you, Doug.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 8th, 2012 06:11 am
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Petermac
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I was about to look for that Doug. :thumbs

I made one myself and it's excellent.

The advantage with Doug's model Nick (apart from the curve which you've now also incorporated), is the wooden handle.  It males it extremely comfortable, easy to pick up and/or, not easily "lost" in a tool box.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 12th, 2013 07:24 pm
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petercharlesfagg
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This is one area of modelling in "N" that made me angry and my fingers bloody!
Simple idea but obviously very effective!
Regards Peter.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 12th, 2013 11:18 pm
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Trainfish
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Not for the first time I think I'm missing something here. Why does it make putting a joiner on any easier? Surely you have to put it on to your tool in the first place. Or is the rail in the tool a bit smaller?

I maybe could have phrased that better of course.

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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2013 09:05 am
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Ken
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Trainfish wrote: Not for the first time I think I'm missing something here. Why does it make putting a joiner on any easier? Surely you have to put it on to your tool in the first place. Or is the rail in the tool a bit smaller?


 

I'm inclined to agree!   Also, although it's a bit fiddly in N gauge I have no real problems in placing them using my fingers for the first placement and then sliding the next rail into said adjacent attached joiner. :???:

Ken.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2013 08:10 pm
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Petermac
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I filed the end of the rail in the tool very slightly so it's not difficult to "locate" the fishplate on the end of the tool.  I then push it home against a piece of hard wood - ply for example, or, more often than not, the side cheeks of my baseboards.

The crank in the tool allows you to easily offer the fishplate up to the fixed track, push the fishplate onto the track and simply withdraw the tool whilst holding the fishplate on the end of the track, usually just with finger pressure.

I have found, with some fishplates, they are a very tight fit on the tool and consequently, they need holding onto the track with pliers as you remove the tool. This has only hasppened with one batch of fishplates and I don't think they were Peco ones.

The key is, absolutely no damaged finger ends !!

Simples ..............:cheers



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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2013 08:32 pm
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Trainfish
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Ok, each to their own then. Wouldn't it be better to make your piece of rail smaller all round so that it will always be tighter on the fitted piece and never come away on the end of your tool? :cool:

I don't have much trouble using my fingers either but then I have young flesh :lol:

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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2013 09:04 pm
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Chubber
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Hi, gents, I made this tool when I had to cut out some already laid track. The Dremel does quite a neat job, but still leaves burs which are difficult to clean up when the track is in a hard to reach place. My hands won't allow fishplate replacement of ballasted cut track between two platforms without an aid of some sort.
As Peter has said, at one time Peco seemed to do a batch of horrid tight f'plates, but when you are abroad, a replacement 50p packet of joiners costs £3 to post, so it was a case of make do and mend.
Doug



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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2013 09:46 pm
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Petermac
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Trainfish wrote: Ok, each to their own then. Wouldn't it be better to make your piece of rail smaller all round so that it will always be tighter on the fitted piece and never come away on the end of your tool? :cool:

I don't have much trouble using my fingers either but then I have young flesh :lol:

If you make the rail too small TF, the fishplate can "wobble" on the end and alignment with the receiving track would be difficult.  Also, remember the "stop" is only a rail joiner so there's not much to play with.

Regarding using just your fingers - if I send you one of the batch of plates both Doug and I spoke of, and a length of standard Code 100 track,  will you film yourself fitting them with just your fingers ?

If you can do it, I'll personally buy you a whole box of track - and that's a promise !!!.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2013 11:54 pm
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Trainfish
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Peter, I usually get paid a lot more than a box of track for being filmed. And code 100 would be no good to me, I use code 55 :shock:

I'll take your word for it regarding the tight fitting fishplates, I just didn't understand the logic of the tool at first but I do now especially with previously laid track as described by DD and the cranked version of the tool.

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 Posted: Thu Feb 14th, 2013 09:30 am
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Petermac
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Trainfish wrote: Peter, I usually get paid a lot more than a box of track for being filmed..........................

:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley

Best not to go into that then TF...........:hmm



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 Posted: Thu Feb 14th, 2013 06:52 pm
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Trainfish
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Probably not. I'll PM you the website address :shock:

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 Posted: Thu Feb 14th, 2013 09:22 pm
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Petermac
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:mutley:mutley:mutley

:chicken:chicken:doublethumb:doublethumb:cheers



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