Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Members Projects > On Members Workbenches. > Plotter Cutter Tests To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  Next Page Last Page  
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

Plotter Cutter Tests - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Wed May 1st, 2013 11:11 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 121st post
Dorsetmike
Save oil - bring back steam


Joined: Mon Feb 18th, 2013
Location: BOURNEMOUTH, United Kingdom
Posts: 1499
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Still having problems with registration marks, I managed to get one cut on a sheet that was almost perfect, but as the cut got further across the sheet it got progressively  further out of registration. I suspect I need a new pair of eyeballs. I've got so far as to use a headband magnifier to try and get the laser dot and the  marks exactly lined up. I joined the KNK forum this afternoon so I think I'll pick their brains tomorrow. problem is they being on the other side of the pond, I'll have to wait until lunchtime here before they start.

I find the registration dot tends to vanish when it gets to the darker registration mark, fine on clean white paper or light colours, but don't like black or other dark colours, shining a light closer don't help either, it drowns the laser dot!

Oh we do have fun!!!!!!!!!!! not.



____________________
Cheers MIKE
How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu May 2nd, 2013 09:05 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 122nd post
Brookwood
Full Member
 

Joined: Sat Mar 2nd, 2013
Location: Bedford, United Kingdom
Posts: 97
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Mike

Don't despair. You are leading in this technology and doing what hasn't been done before. You are a pioneer; just keep working at it. 

I had some very frustrating episodes but now I can cut exactly what I want and it's brilliant. I'm going down a slightly different path to you and believe me it wasn't easy at first but I got there by perseverance; like you do with everything else in life.

Try a pin prick through your registration marks. I found that the laser light disappears down the hole when it is in the right place.

Regards

Chris

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu May 2nd, 2013 10:47 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 123rd post
Dorsetmike
Save oil - bring back steam


Joined: Mon Feb 18th, 2013
Location: BOURNEMOUTH, United Kingdom
Posts: 1499
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

One thing I would mention if you want to cut something designed or detailed in a photo processing  app, or Windows Paint and similar apps, if you import your full multi-coloured image into MTC you get a very messy looking image in MTC, the familiar green background with blue cut lines all over the place where there's a colour change, MTC decides you want to cut each separate colour! To get round this I convert the image to greyscale and ensure there are no patches of darker or lighter grey. The blue image is printed to card, the mono image is imported into MTC and used to cut the printed card, when  fixed behind the "outer wall" only the door detail in the enlarged (slightly blurred by enlargement!) lower pic shows through, any very minor registration errors hopefully would not be so obvious with the overall blue! Ignore the registration marks on the pics, I've reread the manual and now cropped the image so there is no margin. I'm about to do another test run.

Watch this space!!


   



____________________
Cheers MIKE
How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon May 6th, 2013 04:41 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 124th post
Dorsetmike
Save oil - bring back steam


Joined: Mon Feb 18th, 2013
Location: BOURNEMOUTH, United Kingdom
Posts: 1499
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Very much a test run, almost thrown together, sort of see how it all fits - it don't in places! :cry:  made one side a tad longer than the other so the back door is somewhat close to the corner due to having a bit cut off the end, it was either that or have a trapezoidal building! Redrawing has already started.

Stuck the door and windows  cut to the outer wall, floded corners and applied some glue to the join, I'd left a small tab to make that easier, added  a "floor" of foam board and a "rafter" across the top  (more scrap foam board, this made it quite firm, considering the walls were only light medium card, added some clear sheet inside the windows, took this pic



This shows I still need to get the registration better, had to use felt tip to cover the white bits, I also need to make the corners sharper.

I then slapped on a roof, a verandah and some steps, to finish up with this eyesore, roof bowed where I held it down with rubber bands while glue dried, handrails overscale (bit of scrap copper wire)



One learns from ones mistakes, I learnt quite a bit from that exercise, however the main object of the exercise was Zing practice, I also checked that it fitted the intended space on the layout. Back to the drawing board/cutting mat etc!





____________________
Cheers MIKE
How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Jun 11th, 2013 11:21 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 125th post
paul_l
Full Member


Joined: Sun May 27th, 2012
Location: Dundee, United Kingdom
Posts: 1083
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

:lol::lol::lol: :roll:

Mr Big cheesy Grin, my zing arrived today. Better be careful how I say that.



Still playing with settings, but this was cut with the red blade 0.35 offset, 300gsm card stock, 2 passes at speed 6 - slow.
Although some of the bars have broken, each one is less than 0.5mm wide, better results were acheived with thinner stock (Tesco Artist Water colour paper 160gsm 1 pass speed 9). I intend to use sticky labels for the window bars and thicker card for the frames.
I used the Make the Cut (MTC) software supplied for the above test, only downside is it only runs in imperial.

Next task - learn how to use Inkscape, to allow me to trace my Scalescene kits, so I can import the files into MTC.

A modellers life is always full of challenges.

Paul




____________________
Victoria Road
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2013 01:53 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 126th post
Marty
Enjoying the Journey


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia, Australia
Posts: 6037
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

That looks very tidy Paul, following with interest. Enjoy the challenge...it keeps the grey cells ticking over :lol:

Marty



____________________
Marty
N Gauge, GWR West Wales
Newcastle Emlyn Layout.
Newcastle Emlyn Station is "Under construction"
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2013 08:18 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 127th post
Barneybuffer
Full Member


Joined: Wed Nov 28th, 2012
Location: Gosport, United Kingdom
Posts: 980
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Very much a test run, almost thrown together, sort of see how it all fits - it don't in places!

That's easy for you to say Mike,  your building looks like one of my better efforts at scratch building.



____________________
Always try to look on the bright side of life!

Barney
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2013 07:53 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 128th post
paul_l
Full Member


Joined: Sun May 27th, 2012
Location: Dundee, United Kingdom
Posts: 1083
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Marty

Just trying a test with sticky labels, I'm using 6 x 4 labels, using the same settings as per the 300 gsm card (OK so I forgot to reset the speed back from 6 to 9). I did look at the Cricut mini from Provo, approx 1/3 the price of a Zing, but Provo have taken legal action against any company providing drivers to use the device with other software e.g. Make the Cut, and force you to use their proprietry cartridges - and they don't a Model Railway cartridge.
To help justify getting the zing, a quick calculation I need at least 40 buildings to complete this layout, plus over 16ft of retaining wall / arched viaduct, so that works out at around £6 to £8 per kit, if I were to buy kits. But there is no way I could ever cut the windows this good.

Just adjusted the cut speed and blade depth as it hadn't cut all the way through and here is the result.



I'm just blown away by the quality of the cuts, and thats before I really know what i'm actually doing.
And remember I have spent less than 3 hours on this, from unpacking, loading the software, registering it, setting up and testing with the pen tool, then going for it with a blade. Settings for those interested were Offset 0.35, force 85, multicut = 1, speed 9 + 9

Another test, this time with concentric outer layers - the middle one has been coloured black before being stuck down, again sticky labels are the paper stock.



A rough 4ft x 5ft window in 4mm

Paul




____________________
Victoria Road
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2013 10:22 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 129th post
Dorsetmike
Save oil - bring back steam


Joined: Mon Feb 18th, 2013
Location: BOURNEMOUTH, United Kingdom
Posts: 1499
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I use A4 1 label per sheet, with 6x4 labels you are limited to the size of your building; I get them on line from Label Planet in packs of 25. I also use the same size but vinyl not paper, for coach sides, that was my main reason for buying the Zing, try cutting out coach windows by hand in N gauge!!



____________________
Cheers MIKE
How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2013 11:25 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 130th post
paul_l
Full Member


Joined: Sun May 27th, 2012
Location: Dundee, United Kingdom
Posts: 1083
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Mike

The 6x4 were "donated" from the ticket printer at work, and are ideal for testing making windows.
I've not tried vinyl yet, but do use A4 labels from Staples for some of my Scalescene kits.
I suppose the next challenge will be to make a building from scratch, and use a bit of fore thought to make the parts modular so they can be used on other buildings.

Paul



____________________
Victoria Road
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2013 08:11 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 131st post
Angusog
Full Member
 

Joined: Wed Jan 25th, 2012
Location: Coffs Harbour, Australia
Posts: 66
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Settings for those interested were Offset 0.35, force 85, multicut = 1, speed 9 + 9
Hi Paul

congrats on getting a zing, you have got to grips with it quickly, windows look great, one question is the "force setting on sticky labels" i would have thought 85 is a bit high, i cut sign vinyl at 55, no idea what weight it is but feels pretty thick , but definitely try less force on your next set of tests, also the second speed is the blade up speed and i never change that from 10, not a lot of difference but does speed up the cut.

Regards

Robert



____________________
____________________________________________________
Robert
céad míle fáilte
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2013 12:14 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 132nd post
Marty
Enjoying the Journey


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia, Australia
Posts: 6037
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

You gotta be happy with those windows! :thumbs nice work.



____________________
Marty
N Gauge, GWR West Wales
Newcastle Emlyn Layout.
Newcastle Emlyn Station is "Under construction"
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2013 10:38 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 133rd post
paul_l
Full Member


Joined: Sun May 27th, 2012
Location: Dundee, United Kingdom
Posts: 1083
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Robert

I just used the default settings, but will lower the cut pressure for the next tests.
I'm just blown away by the delicacy and accuracy of the cuts. Now the initial rush of blood has eased a little, I will have to start and learn how to use the software properly, the results show that very fine things are possible (and just reminded by the boss not until I have tiled the kitchen floor and installed her new dishwasher - the things we agree to, to get our own way :roll:).

Hi Marty
Yup very pleased - I'm going to try and copy the scalescene windows for the kits I have, but make them in several layers so that the open sash windows can over lap each other - like Doofer manages on his excellent models - you gotta aim high. :lol:

For anyone considering getting a plotter cutter, this is not a cheap piece of kit but then again not much dearer than a DCC sound equipped loco. It is a sturdy, well built flexible piece of kit and comes with windows or mac based software - a fully registered copy of Make the Cut, that can be used on several PC's, unfortunately not available for linux.
I did notice that Hobbycraft have started to stock the Provo Cricut Mini and expression range, but I couldn't find any software that would allow you to design custom designs, and rely on cartridges, again no model railway specific ones.

Paul



____________________
Victoria Road
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Jun 14th, 2013 07:35 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 134th post
katwigan
Full Member
 

Joined: Sun Apr 1st, 2012
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 32
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

 Hi guys,
 We ( the wife and I ) took possession of a Silhouette Cameo last week and while it did Deb's lace cut outs right from first trials I had a bit of trouble with it tearing things. However after a couple of evenings worth of frustration I managed to produce this fret which will form the panelling on the  ex L&Y  platform buildings of Wigan Wallgate station.
 
The material is approx. 0.011" thick card ( not sure what that equates to in GSM standards, anyone know ?) The original was drawn up in a CAD program and was imported straight into the Studio software that comes with the unit. Other than having to make 5 v. small cuts to finalize the separation of some of the smaller pieces ( which are approx. 3 x 4 mm ) and delaminating the back side of 2 of the 1.2mm  wide verticals I was well pleased with the 'unfettled' product as seen in the photo above. I have to do the frets for two more buildings ,one of which is a two story unit.
I did some trials when it was still tearing things by putting a 0.25mm rad in the corners of each cut out which didn't bother the unit at all but my eyes couldn't really see the difference so I went back to square corners
I am considering a 2nd fret to lay over these with 0.9mm wide verticals to see how it goes. I'll let you know.
 HAvent got round to using it to trace and cut out the windows and doors from an existing building wall ( eg scalescenes or some of the ones I have generated from photos of actual buildings ) I'll let you know about that also.
Cheers
Kevan
There is no way I would have tackled this project in a 3D sense without having seen the potential of these unit's on here.
At Au $375 it was a significant investment but as Deb will be using it for her craft work my logic says $187.50 each is money well spent

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Jun 14th, 2013 08:33 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 135th post
paul_l
Full Member


Joined: Sun May 27th, 2012
Location: Dundee, United Kingdom
Posts: 1083
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Wow Kevan thats impressive, I would imagine overlays would be a PITA to line up.

Paul



____________________
Victoria Road
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Jun 14th, 2013 11:05 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 136th post
katwigan
Full Member
 

Joined: Sun Apr 1st, 2012
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 32
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Yeh Paul. I like you was planning on using the self adhesive label papers for a lot of this work but because you only really get one shot at putting it down I think I will be using some of the glue that Deb uses which allows a fair time for 'relocating' while still holding ok.
I also think that in order to get these right I will have to redraw each building's frets onto it's own page with however many layers all on there together. Otherwise I can see me ending up with a top layer that ends up .5mm longer or something stupid like that , that only shows up as the last verticals are lining up out of position. ( Murphy, the bane of engineering says so!)
Hey and those windows look nice and tidy too.
Cheers
Kev

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Jun 15th, 2013 09:52 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 137th post
Angusog
Full Member
 

Joined: Wed Jan 25th, 2012
Location: Coffs Harbour, Australia
Posts: 66
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Guys

a tip that might be useful when using label stock is to peel the label and reposition it off the edge of the backing paper by a little bit , just enough to get adhesion that way you get to line it up without trying to keep the glue from attaching to the rest of it. I find a light box invaluable for lining things up when doing vinyl signage for the toy trucks made at my Men's shed in Coffs Harbour

On one i had 5 layers 11" long 1/2" high to line up a pita for sure but got it nearly dead on with the light box, and like kat i do all my signs on one page in different layers hiding the ones i don't want cut.

regards

Robert



____________________
____________________________________________________
Robert
céad míle fáilte
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Jun 15th, 2013 12:14 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 138th post
Brookwood
Full Member
 

Joined: Sat Mar 2nd, 2013
Location: Bedford, United Kingdom
Posts: 97
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Just to let you know I haven't been ignoring you but what with earning Brownie points and holidays the days seem to slip by.

I'm very impressed the way this plotter cutter method is beginning to take off. I find it brilliant.

I'm working on a scratch built bridge at the moment and I have practically cut everything on the machine.



Because I cut the arches on the machine everything is exactly the same size, I even cut the rectangles to the walls on the machine. The curved underside was a matter of seconds to cut and all five fitted exactly.



Then I wanted some stone arches to give a 3D effect and guess what. I didn't cut them all in one go I thought that would be a bit ambitious but as I hope you can see from the photo they all fitted.



Now glued in place and waiting for decision on colouring. Road deck is in Balsa wood but not fitted yet.

It is like making your own kit and then just glueing it together. I'm hoping to cover the card in Plastikard stonework also cut on the machine but at the moment I'm experimenting with folding the Plastikard around corners.

Keep up the good work.

Regards

Chris

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon Jun 17th, 2013 03:37 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 139th post
Dorsetmike
Save oil - bring back steam


Joined: Mon Feb 18th, 2013
Location: BOURNEMOUTH, United Kingdom
Posts: 1499
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Is it possible to set things up to score some lines and cut others in the same cut?

I'm cutting buildings from preprinted card  (printed with brick texture) and wondering how to do the scoring to bend tabs and corners.

There wouldn't be a problem if I was doing print and cut, I could make 2 passes, one for the score lines, followed by a cut.

I've copied some old card kits and I'm trying to improve the looks by cutting out window and door spaces cutting the walls etc from an A4 sheet of card printed with brick, stone, tiles or timber cladding, then adding doors and glazing similar to the way Metcalfe kits are done.

Workflow to get to this stage, scan the card kit into a photo processing app, copy one of each type of window and door to  new pages, draw white rectangles to replace windows and doors, convert to B/W as in the above pic, import to MTC, print an A4 sheet of card with required texture - brick, stone etc feed that to Zing and cut, meanwhile the doors and windows have been "edited" windows are just frames in any colour you like except white and some paler colours they dont show on transparent sheets! Doors can be done any colour and printed to card allowing some space all round (except bottom)  they can then be cut out knife or scissors and stuck behind the opening in the wall, windows also have a space round for glueing.

You can get a lot of N gauge doors and windows on one sheet, so it pays to do a load of kits at one time (the above makes 2 of 2 separate factory buildings, but only one chimney! I'll also be doing a row of cottages and other buildings.




____________________
Cheers MIKE
How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon Jun 17th, 2013 05:22 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 140th post
paul_l
Full Member


Joined: Sun May 27th, 2012
Location: Dundee, United Kingdom
Posts: 1083
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Mike

If you cut on the reverse side, have the cut and score lines on separate layers, then hide the full cut layer, while you set the blade to the score depth or maybe use the emboss tool, then hide the score lines and show the cuts and adjust the blade to cut through.

Paul



____________________
Victoria Road
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 10103     Current time is 04:25 pm Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  Next Page Last Page    
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Members Projects > On Members Workbenches. > Plotter Cutter Tests
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic


Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topics

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.