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John's Workbench - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Dec 2nd, 2013 09:44 pm
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shunter1
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Hi John,
Most likely its considered a lathe job to get an accurate wheel.
I had a disater that damn spring on the jinty centre axle flew into orbit. Hunted high and low but no luck.
I suppose I will have to contact Bachman and try to get some spares?.
regards,
Derek.

PS: If I can find some very fine wire I could make a spring?

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 Posted: Mon Dec 2nd, 2013 10:41 pm
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Brossard
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Derek, I shouldn't have thought that accuracy was a particular concern when thinning the back of the wheel - nice to get things as close as you can but a few thou here or there isn't going to matter.  I wouldn't tackle anything pertaining to concentricity.

Bachmann are (or were) pretty good on the support side.  They've sent me stuff FOC in the past to correct problems of my own making.  I don't know what the spring looks like but won't it need some special spring steel?

John



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 Posted: Mon Dec 2nd, 2013 11:44 pm
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shunter1
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I agree John about the wheels, Although I own a lathe so its no big deal for me.
I found some springy thin wire and fixed the problem.
I am going to use gibson wheels and axles.
I ran a 1/8th reamer through the chassis axle holes keeping
the same line for the axle tops as Bachmans model.
Infact you will notice on the Bachman chassis little metal pips on the axle slots, These are what need opening out a little to accomadate 1/8th full axles.
I ran the edge of a file on the gear axle where the gear slides on, This holds the gear in place,nicely, the metal being a little rough on that spot.
Anyway I shall let you have your workbench back.

regards,
Derek.

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 Posted: Tue Dec 3rd, 2013 12:27 am
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Brossard
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Well done Derek!  I think as long as the reamer cuts, you will maintain concentricity.  It's when you try to ream that strange plastic that concentricity problems arise.  Something to store away.

Glad you sorted your spring.

Something I proved again today - the usefulness of jewellers rouge.  I have a stick and used it successfully to rub out the scratches on the body from where I removed the van number.  I used a fiber pen because car paint rubbing compound (T cut?) didn't work.

Today, I was tinkering with the van and while it ran fairly freely, it wasn't as free as I would like.  I scraped some flakes of rouge from the stick and mixed it with some oil to make a paste.  I daubed this on the axle bearings and voila! things started running more freely almost immediately.  This paste is also useful for bedding in new gearboxes - I got the idea from the Comet site where there are some very handy things in the download section, including a piece on quietening Portescap gearboxes.

John



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 Posted: Tue Dec 3rd, 2013 08:11 pm
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shunter1
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Good thinking John,
That jeweller's rouge looks useful.
Just maybe that wire you used for the axle's is catching slightly in the bearing cups. It might be flexing a little?
Pity that gibson use 1.5mm axle's. The Bachman 2mm axle jobs are lovely runner's If one could get EM they would be perfect for good running. Okay they are probably a little over scale 6inch dia against 4.5 inch dia.

regards,
Derek.

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 Posted: Tue Dec 3rd, 2013 08:56 pm
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Brossard
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Yes, the rouge is definitely worth having if you can get it.  I got mine I don't know how many years ago at an auto parts store which had all sorts of interesting tools.

The van fair whizzes along the track now, very pleased. :pathead

The Bachmann wheels weren't difficult to thin and now they're to the EM spec.  The only downside I discovered yesterday is that the flanges are 0.68mm thick.  Fortunately, the van goes through my point OK.  :doublethumb

In the future I'll take a bit off the back first.  Alaways learning.

John



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 Posted: Thu Jan 16th, 2014 10:20 pm
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shunter1
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Hi John its been awhile since I posted in your thread.
Great to see you have the Bachman wheels under control.
I have just received a parcel containing axle steel rods.
So I can start experimenting with the lathe.
Still involved with clearing the decks for the baseboard extensions. Then I can get down to serious track making and laying.Which will lead to loco builds.
All the best,
Derek.

PS:Amazon stock that Jeweller,s Rouge. So no problem getting it.

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 Posted: Fri Jan 17th, 2014 12:18 pm
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Brossard
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It's been a while for me too. I'm having trouble getting back into it. The holidays can be very disruptive.

I've been watching the goings on in your thread, a very ambitious project - almost rivalling Retford.

Cheers
John



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 Posted: Sat Jan 18th, 2014 01:53 am
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shunter1
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Hi John, Hope your energy for railways gets a boost soon.
Yes my build seems a tad ambitious. Just working out the finished board surface length. 98 feet taking in the end room loop. I guess it will keep me occupied untill I hit the buffer,s.Buildings will be kits some altered a little to save time. Loco,s and rolling stock will certainly eat up the time spent on the build.
Retford John, Thats a new one on me?
cheer,s,
Derek.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 18th, 2014 05:08 am
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Brossard
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Well, the holidays are one thing, but having just got a new all singing and all dancing computer doesn't help either. I've been playing my favourite game for all hours on it.

The difference is remarkable and soooo much better than the old one.

Retford: I did a search but didn't get anything really definitive. The layout is Roy Jackson's magnum opus in EM gauge. It's been featured several times in MRJ but I haven't heard anything recently.

John



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 Posted: Sun Jan 19th, 2014 02:19 am
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shunter1
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Oh dear, Gameing John.
Very addictive my friend, Spent 5 years modding Total War games. Taking a year out to recover.
Thanks for letting me know about Roy jackson's railway.
cheers,
Derek.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 19th, 2014 08:53 am
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Brossard
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Now there's a coincidence, I'm playing Empire - Total War. For me the Total War games are ideal. Never got into modding though. Indeed they are very addictive.

John



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 Posted: Sun Jan 19th, 2014 03:12 pm
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Super D
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I had the priviledge of seeing Roy Jackson's layout 'in the flesh' last year. It is absolutely stunning.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 19th, 2014 07:10 pm
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Thanks Super D, it's good to know that it is still active. I hope that an update on the layout is published soon.

John



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 Posted: Mon Jan 20th, 2014 02:49 am
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shunter1
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Brossard wrote: Now there's a coincidence, I'm playing Empire - Total War. For me the Total War games are ideal. Never got into modding though. Indeed they are very addictive.

John


:) For myself. Rome Total War useing the Alexander extension to build a Rome based mod.:).

However if I get back into it the railway will die. So going cold turkey on that hobby untill the railway is well under way.

Cheers,

Derek.

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 Posted: Mon Jan 20th, 2014 07:10 am
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Brossard
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Well, you're not wrong there. I hope to get it out of my system. I've had my eye on Rome 2, now I've got a new machine, I should be able to play that.

John



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 Posted: Sat Apr 26th, 2014 01:53 am
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Brossard
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Well, having been thoroughly sated playing DarthMod Empire and Napoleon, I hope I can get back to work.  I thought I'd start by converting some vehicles that I bought recently to EM. 

First up, the Hornby CCT or, as LMS called it, Motor Car Van.  I didn't take a picture before starting work but it can be seen here:

http://www.ehattons.com/60265/Hornby_R6640_LMS_4_Wheel_CCT_Van_New_tooling_for_2013/StockDetail.aspx

The colour seemed strange to me as most NPCS vehicles were painted maroon.  This is obviously bauxite.  However, I found a picture of one of these when fairly new and the caption describes the colour as indeed being bauxite (or undercoat).

This van is quite good but the underframe detail is lacking and not up to the standard set by the GWR horsebox from a couple of years ago.

The other thing I noticed was the axles seem sloppy in their bearings.  The van runs OK, but I really don't think this sloppiness is acceptable.  My guess/speculation is that this is a feature to allow the van to negotiate 15" rad. curves.

So, here goes.

The first order of business was to re gauge the wheels.  To my eye the wheels are pretty fine and the flange looks quite thin.  To start I yanked on the the wheel of an axle and off it came leaving the plastiuc bush behind.  Bu**er! I thought.  My solution was to use cyano to secure the wheel to the bush.  The other wheel on the axle is not insulated and I couldn't shift it by hand.

I used a wheel puller to move the the two wheels out to the correct gauge.  
I confirmed that the re gauged wheels run nicely through the test point with about 0.5mm sideplay. 

I should mention that getting body off the underframe isn't difficult since it is simply clipped.  A sharp knife inserted into the underframe/body join will allow you to prise it apart. 

Next, of course, the brakes need looking at.  These, helpfully, are separate components which pop out fairly readily.  There was some carving required to ensure they could be repositioned. 

I removed the brake gear and levers - all plastic and in so doing broke the vee hangers.  I decided to re-do that in brass, as you will see. 

I also nibbled away at the NEM coupling box to remove it since I want to use scale head Kadees.

I glued plastic sheets to the inside of the underframe to give me something to mount the brakes to.




To correct the sloppiness of the axles I decided to use waisted pinpoint bearings.  I used my Truck Tuner for this:

[url=http://www.micromark.com/HO-Truck-Tuner,8241.html ]http://www.micromark.com/HO-Truck-Tuner,8241.html [/url]

This opened up the plastic recess to accept the bearings.  These were glued in and wheels installed.  As expected, they were tight.  The solution was:

a)  Thin the back of the axlebox to the extent that the bearing flange was removed (the wheel hub is quite close to the axle box) and
b) Use the tuner to open out/adjust the brass bearings
I got the wheels turning freely after all that.

Next I turned my attention the brake rigging.  Using LMS Journal as a guide, I used brass wire (0.020") and parts from Mainly Trains' very useful brake etches.



The fore and aft rodding would connect the brake yokes so that, as the vacuum piston moves towards the floor, the double crank pulls and exerts the force to apply the brakes.  I added a vacuum pipe from copper wire. 

In preparation for brake installation, I added a 0.060" plastic strip insert to the cavities for the wheels.

John

PS, I'm using Chrome (which I don't like)  to post this.  Using IE11 (I have Win7) I couldn't upload pictures and the formatting was all ahoo.



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 Posted: Sat Apr 26th, 2014 10:20 pm
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shunter1
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Nice one John,
Good to see you have recovered from game mania!!!
I tried IE11 and gave it up and went back to version 10 with windows7.
all the best,
Derek.

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 Posted: Sat Apr 26th, 2014 10:30 pm
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Brossard
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Thanks Derek, not sure if "recovered" is the right word - I could relapse at any moment.


Also not sure about my IE version, I assume I have the latest which I think is IE11.  I had a load of problems with IE on my XP machine so I'm disappointed to find that problems still exist, not only here but on RMWeb too.


John



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 Posted: Sat Apr 26th, 2014 11:14 pm
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Spurno
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Most of these problems seem to vanish when using Firefox John,don't know if that's of any help to you.



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