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John's Workbench - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Sep 13th, 2016 04:13 am
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Brossard
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Something new for a change.

Bachmanns' LNWR G2 0-8-0 loco is superb.  I've had mine for several years and it is a great runner.  The other day, I was reviewing the model and I'm still impressed....mostly.

Looking at it, the tender is badly let down by the wheels which are thick and clunky looking.  They are, in fact, some 2.9mm wide with a flange of ~ 0.75mm.

Having a suitable tender chassis kit in stock, I decided to give the tender a bit of an upgrade:




Nothing wrong with the body or frames.

First order of business was to find suitable wheels...well I couldn't.  I've got loads of wheels but none with the distinctive 10 spoke design (I assume Bachmann did their homework to get that detail right).  So, I got out my file and worked away at the Bachmann wheels.  The backs were reduce by 0.25mm to give a flange thickness of 0.5mm.  The fronts were thinned until the overall width was 2.2mm.  These dimensions conform to EM.

The Comet chassis kit is in the middle.  It is generic however, so if anyone has any drawings or details of the tender chassis it would be appreciated.  I've got what I consider to be a quite good library of technical books but very little on this loco.

John



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 Posted: Wed Sep 14th, 2016 06:36 am
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Brossard
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Busy with the tender chassis today.  A bit of one foot forward and 2 feet back today when I realised that, while my chassis wheelbase is 7' x 7', the G2 wheelbase is 6' 10" x 6' 10" - drat!

I cut the chassis into three pieces and used my chassis jig to keep everything straight and accurate while I fished the frames together.

I ended up with this:




Front is to the right.  Brake rigging is unusual on this tender and I think I've mostly captured the look.  I used bits and bobs and lots of wire to do it.

In my fervour to assemble the brakes, it didn't dawn on me until after I was done that I can't get the wheels off :roll:.  Never mind, I'll just have to hand paint instead of spray.

Here the chassis is loosely fitted to the frames:




I packed the inside of the frames with 1mm thick plastic card.

John



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 Posted: Wed Sep 14th, 2016 02:09 pm
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Marty
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Thank goodness for the chassis jig :shock:



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 Posted: Wed Sep 14th, 2016 05:03 pm
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Brossard
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You're right about that Marty - a very useful bit of kit.  I was worried that it wouldn't get a workout but I have used it quite often lately.

As for the brake rigging, I had a think and decided that:

1)  It sits too low and
2) The brake pul rods are too thick - should be wire I'm thinking

I will take it apart today and rejig everything.  I suspect the brake hangers are a tad too long.  This time I might just paint it before making wheel removal too difficult.

It's no good putting something out there that you know to be wrong.

John



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 Posted: Wed Sep 14th, 2016 08:26 pm
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Brossard
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So, as I mentioned, I've redone the rigging:







This looks much more convincing.  I used 0.45mm NS wire for the brake pull rod.  I scaled the real brake pull rod from a photo and got 0.38mm.

Quite happy with this. :cheers 

I've got to have a good look at the ride height, not sure all is as it should be.

John



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 Posted: Wed Sep 14th, 2016 11:14 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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The new rods are worth the effort, John.  :thumbs



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 Posted: Thu Sep 15th, 2016 01:56 am
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Brossard
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Glad you think so Max. 

I did look at the ride height and added 0.5mm (0.020") to the packing to get it correct.

John



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 Posted: Thu Sep 15th, 2016 05:48 pm
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Brossard
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Those of you who follow this might be forgiven for wondering where the Jubilee went.  Well, over the last couple of weeks I've been working on it here and there. and today, as Max might say, Viola!  I mated the tender to the loco and it works!  :doublethumb:cheers







I also detailed the loco, adding steps, brake rigging, screw link coupling and crew.  I used the short drawbar.  In my usual fashion, I thinned the bogie wheels by filing down the backs by ~ 0.25mm.

John



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 Posted: Sat Sep 24th, 2016 06:06 pm
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Brossard
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So, I've put the G2 back together:







Apart from the tender upgrade, I installed a screw link coupling on the front.  I originally had a NEM #18 installed but that REALLY looks bad.

Note the crew, a necessity I believe.

Anyone who owns this model may be confounded by the front guard irons.  Bachmann leave a pad for them but don't offer any advice as to how to fix them.  My first attempt was contact cement but, while this holds them, it will not withstand any handling and mine came off.

My fix for this was to drill 0.032 holes in the Mazak - tedious but doable.  I then drilled the guard irons and soldered 0.032 brass wire to them.  The guard irons are inserted into the holes and secured with CA - much better.

At the rear of the tender is a #58 Kadee, glued to plastic pads which in turn are glued to the chassis.  Difficult to see which is a good thing I think.

Vac pipes are Markits wire wound.  I like these because they can be cut and bent to replicate just about any of the dangly bits.  Sadly I've run out.  My order from AGW includes a load of vac pipes and steam pipes.

John



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 Posted: Mon Jan 23rd, 2017 12:03 pm
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Passed Driver
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Hi John.   Some persons like to have the droploghts open and others don't , and it adds to realism, better than just "Bunging a piece of Plastic in from the back". The way I would do it? When are we going to see the Finished job, painted, lined, and transfers too?   All the best. Kevin



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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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 Posted: Mon Jan 23rd, 2017 07:47 pm
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Brossard
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Not with you Kevin, are we talking about the LSWR coaches?  These are complete with pictures here.  Post 62 on page 4.

John



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 Posted: Mon Jan 23rd, 2017 08:19 pm
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Passed Driver
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Hi John.  Sorry about that, I thought that I had got to the end, but I will look again. Kevin



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 Posted: Mon Jan 23rd, 2017 08:26 pm
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Passed Driver
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Hi John.    Thank you, excellent really marvellous , I will have to email this to myself so that I don't lose the thread or the "Plot". Then I can file it under "Railways".   All the best. Kevin



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