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John's Workbench - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Nov 2nd, 2014 08:55 pm
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shunter1
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Hi John,Some advice please.
Romford/Markit axle dia. 3mm or 1/8 Any idea of what the supplier is useing these days for his driving wheels.
I have a comet replacement chassis for the Bachman Jinty and thinking of useing it.The original is somewhat knackered after the EM experiment.Plus I want to avoid Gibson drivers.They are to flimsy.Their bogie/tender wheels are okay.
regards,
Derek.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 2nd, 2014 09:44 pm
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Brossard
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Not sure what you mean Derek.  Markits axles are pretty much exclusive to Markits wheels.  I know Scalelink have a wheel design that is compatible with Markits axles, but these have plastic centers so similar to Gibson in strength I guess.

The last time I ordered wheels was from Markits direct.  This wasn't as straightforward as I would like and I ended up calling him to remind him of my order (he admitted he had forgotten) and had to endure a tirade about the bolshie postal service.  I suppose it's a side effect of the one man band operations and I can sympathise since he has to manage the whole thing - must be overwhelming.

The wheels sets are good because they give you everything you need including balance weights and axle covers.

Markits wheels seem to be finer than the old Romfords, nominally to RP25 but with a flange width of 0.54mm vs 0.68mm for RP25.  I recall turning down on an old set of wheels that I assume are Romfords because the flanges hit the chairs on my C&L track.

My Jinty chassis is also looking the worse for wear after my experiments.  I plan to pick it up in the next week to see what I can do with it.  If all else fails I have a couple of Comet chassis kits.

BTW, Markits also do 3mm top hat bearings.

I'm using Gibson coach/wagon wheels.

HTH

John



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 Posted: Sun Nov 2nd, 2014 09:50 pm
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Brossard
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I thought I'd show some wheels that I just weathered.  I feel that wheels should be given the same attention as the rest of the wagon.




I sprayed these with frame dirt when I had the airbrush loaded yesterday.  This morning I used "old rust" powder, following up with black.  The tyres are still painted at this stage but after running, these should develop a nice shiny line where the rail contacts the tyre.

The wheels on the left are Exactoscale, the rest are modified Bachmann.

John



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 Posted: Mon Nov 3rd, 2014 12:50 am
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shunter1
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Thanks John. Markits do 3mm axles so I guess its best to phone the guy and ask him is his quartered wheels now being made for those 3mm axles.Also he provides knurled 3mm axles handy for some gear sprokets.I spotted some handy 25mm driving wheels which would suit the Prince kit of mine.
I have dealt with him before so the situation is not new.
Nice job on weathering those wagon wheels John.
cheers,
Derek.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 3rd, 2014 01:21 am
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Brossard
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It doesn't matter to the wheels whether the axle is 3mm or 1/8" - the square boss is the same.  I got some knurled 3mm axles in my last order.

John



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 Posted: Mon Nov 3rd, 2014 08:13 pm
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shunter1
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Thanks for that info John,
I guess the old 1/8th axles will be phased out.
Cheers,
Derek.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 3rd, 2014 08:16 pm
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Brossard
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Don't phase them out too quickly Derek.  You may still want to replace some chassis - although if your stock is the latest tooling, that will most likely be unnecessary.

John



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 Posted: Mon Nov 3rd, 2014 08:20 pm
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shunter1
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Thanks for the warning John.
Best to cover all angles with this stock building lark.
Derek.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2014 06:58 pm
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Campaman
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Brossard wrote: I thought I'd show some wheels that I just weathered.  I feel that wheels should be given the same attention as the rest of the wagon.











I sprayed these with frame dirt when I had the airbrush loaded yesterday.  This morning I used "old rust" powder, following up with black.  The tyres are still painted at this stage but after running, these should develop a nice shiny line where the rail contacts the tyre.



The wheels on the left are Exactoscale, the rest are modified Bachmann.



John



I agree a lot of rolling stock that is weathered needs more attention to the wheels.
My personal method is that like you I give them an initial spray of dirt, once this is dry I use artists oil paints (Burnt Umber and Raw Sienna or similar) and apply a rough thin coat to the wheel faces, I then sprinkle on a bit brown/black powder.
This once dry gives a more crusty rusty finish.








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 Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2014 07:08 pm
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Brossard
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Happy to hear that there's someone else out there that thinks like me.  Great minds...?

Cheers Andy.

John

 



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 Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2014 01:17 am
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Genetk44
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I do a similar process to my wheels....I found this tutorial about 18 months ago that got me combining paint and powders...before that it was just a rusty/brown coat of paint on the wheel faces....which is a huge improvement on the factory fresh shiny wheels out of the box....but powders do help.

http://www.protomodeler.com/index.php?/topic/370-weathering-wheel-faces/

Cheers
Gene



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 Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2014 01:22 am
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Brossard
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Excellent Gene, very encouraging to me to know I'm on the right track.

John

 



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 Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2014 06:03 pm
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Campaman
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Yup, that link is exactly how I do mine.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2014 05:31 am
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Brossard
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So, I revisited a recent project - the Fish van.  I also built a second van given to me by a friend.

Shortly after I "finished" the first van, I saw something written by Larry Goddard (Coachman) who indicated that NPCS vans built after 1940 were finished in Lake Undercoat or Bauxite.  I therefore repainted my van using BR Bauxite:



I thought I'd have a go with giving these a light weathering using only powders - I quite like the effect.

John



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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2014 06:59 am
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toto
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Hi John,

They look the business. What powders did you use. Looks like a dusting of black here and there. I don't mean to understate anything, there could easily be two or three colours there. That's why I ask.

Great end result in any case.

Thanks again for sharing.

Toto

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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2014 07:01 am
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Marty
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Superb John.

Simply Superb.

Marty



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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2014 08:42 am
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Brossard
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Cheers, Marty.

Toto, quite a few colours actually.  I started with old rust on the springs and axleboxes - this was worked with a brush.  Then some earth on the axlesboxes and solebars, again worked with a brush.  Then I used dark grey (made from shaved white pastel and black pigment) to go over the solebars.  I applied a line of grey to the bottom of the van, working it with a brush, ditto for the ends, doors and van edges.

There's not a lot of science, I just do what seems right.

Ironwork on the doors was highlighted with silver pencil.


John

 



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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2014 02:55 pm
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shunter1
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Good looking wagons John,I must say those Kaydee couplings look neat.

Cheers,
Derek.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2014 05:15 pm
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Brossard
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Thanks Derek, Kadees are something I've standardized on for years now.

Here's a shot of the underneath:




I'm never impressed with the detail provided by plastic kit makers.  I prefer to do my own using brass parts - in this case the MainlyTrains AVB etch, and wire.

John

 



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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2014 07:23 pm
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toto
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Very impressive John. I'm still very much behind the eight ball with my weathering project and hope to get back to it soon. the kadee's are another item of interest but that's for another day.
the wagons are so much more realistic than the bog standard that grace my layout at the moment. great job and thanks for the information on the colouring / powders etc.


cheers


toto

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